TimWarner

Ok, so... What I need still: 2 CR speed belts, one for prod, one for open 4 more speedcomp mag pouches Ghost holster w/carver mount mod 4 140mm extensions 1 170mm extension I have a bladetech DOH kydex coming, as well as some speedcomp pouches, so for production all I need is a belt. How many mags should I carry? I was thinking 3 on the belt should be enough. That would put me at 68/9 rounds, depending if I used a stripper mag and got the +1

Start small, use a center cut carbide mill. I've seen both the V-style with 8 holes (on a 24 I believe) as well as a single row. Probably start at about .093 or so, close to the end of the barrel. I would start with one hole, and add holes until you get to the back edge of the cutout. Once you have all the holes drilled, work front to back and enlarge them a little at a time. Make sure to check it with some time of standard load, and not a new pet load. That will give you a more definite feel for what's happening as you're working.

Try polishing the stock spring, that will help some with the heavier pull vs the 4 pound spring.

I don't think it's just removing the trigger safety that's a problem. It's disabling the trigger safety where you already have pretravel so short that the other safeties are permanently disabled. My opinion is that there should be SOMETHING in place to block the gun from firing if dropped/banged on something. If you were to just disable the safety, without reducing pretravel to the point the striker is permanently cocked, trigger bar is far enough back in the housing it is allowed to travel down, and FP safety is permanently depressed, I wouldn't see a problem with that.

well, in "our" closet... there's so many clothes and shoes that my clothing has to share space with my safe in a closet in the basement. I could say... you have 10 pair of shoes, so I can have a holster, belt, etc. Though at that rate, I'd have more holsters than guns to put in them. That's another problem in itself.

I ordered a blade-tech DOH, but I may end up trying a comp-tac as well. The wilderness belt I have, is what I wear every day. I plan on getting a CR belt when I order my CR speed holster. I should have both before local matches start up. My fiance needs some convincing though, I keep telling her the startup cost for IPSC is higher than GSSF, but the matches are cheaper since I don't have to travel(yet). Any advice on how to pass off equipment as a "necessary expense"?

Drop/offset holsters are legal for production? I've never used one, but it seems like it would make clearing the holster with a longer pistol a bit easier. How well do paddle holsters work? I don't really like the idea, but if no one has had problems with them, it may be an option. I'm looking right now at the DOH, and the Comp-tac paddle holster. The Kytac website seems to be really slow/not working.

I am going to start shooting production this summer, and I'm looking for a basic setup. Right now I have a Wilderness belt, and a 2-mag Comp-tac holder. All of my holsters are IWB and I'd like something a little easier to get at. I've read through some threads here on production equipment, but I usually get the different mag holders/holsters confused. The only thing I think I've decided on is the Speedcomp mag holders, that face the mags out away from my body. That way I can also use them if I start shooting Open as well. For holsters, I'm not totally clear on what is legal and what's not. I've been looking at the Fobus holsters, as well as a Comp-tac. Thanks in advance.

Atmar, you can remove the trigger safety from the trigger, heat up the spring part and bent it out more, and then trim the wide part of the trigger safety on the back off. then the trigger safety will function with a super short pull. If I remember later, I'll post a pic of it. I had a really short light trigger on my open gun, but switched back to a sotelo. IMO, I don't like having such a short light pull, on a cocked firearm, with no physical safety. With the short pull, the striker stays most of the way retracted, so if for some reason the cruciform on the trigger bar slips off the striker, bang. Depending on how short you have it, the FP safety may, or may not stay disengaged. I had to stone the FP safety disengage tab on my trigger bar down a little to keep it from staying disengaged, though when I pressed it that last 1/8th of an inch, it was enough to depress it far enough for the FP. Edit: Also, if you limit the forward travel of your trigger, the drop safety is disabled. The left wing on the trigger bar isn't held up by the housing any more, so if you drop it, the trigger bar could slip off the mostly cocked striker, and fire. Another reason I went back to the Sotelo kit.

Another excuse for me to plaster my project... Just got a new SJC comp, unfortunetly it's not a full SJC build.

Just for reference info, SJC said to use red loctite. Green requires too much heat to remove, and prevents removal of the barrel from the slide permanently.

Here's mine with the new comp: Pardon the poor picture, I suck at photoshop

I just use some Dychem layout fluid to mark my brass. It comes in red and blue as far as I know, and comes off when tumbled. Also, it has some lubricating properties, so if any comes off in the gun I'm not worried.

First, I'm going to try a couple loads and play with the comp. I want to get a good feel for it before I start changing anything. Most of my thoughts on the porting come from only using the 3-port KKM. If I do decide to do porting, I'll probably start down at 3/32, which is the smallest cutter I've got, and go slow up from there. As long as I can get a load that feels right for me, I'll probably leave out the porting, since I'm not running major. There's no sense in cutting up a good barrel if I don't need to. Also, how much does bleeding off the gas via porting affect the compensator effectiveness?

Facing the barrel, when it gets tight, the comp ports are at about 3 o'clock. I'm kind of hesitant to force a 3/4 turn on threads that fine with aluminum. I'll try red lock first, if that doesn't work, I've got green at work. the thought of using a torch to remove it though, doesn't excite me. I've seen what that stuff does. I may end up just putting set screws in and using red if I end up needing it. My KKM barrel is one of the drop in w/comp kits, so it has flats on the barrel for screws.

Alright, thanks.

Ok, I got all excited when my SJC comp came today... I'm new to open guns and compensators and all that stuff. How do I fasten it to my barrel? Obviously it threads on, but what is to keep it from backing off? The other comp I have (KKM) has set screws on the sides to lock it in place. I sent them an email, but I figured I could ask here and maybe get a quicker response. So, I'll end with a thanks, and a Durrrr.

It's not directly under, but would clip the front edge of the deflector it looks like. I could always leave the rear most 2 holes off and go with 4 that are in the clear

Right now I'm running a G17C. I cut open the port slots a-la G34, and have a KKM barrel now with an SJC 5-port comp on the way this week. What I want to do is move my carver slide ride back another 1/4 inch or so, and add 6 ports, 2 rows of 3 roughly 3/32 diameter, .240" from C/L. This would leave the rear-most 2 ports just barely under the blast deflector, and the front 4 in the clear. Anyone have any experience doing this, or any thoughts? I'm going to check into the tools at work and see if I have the drill bits and a jig I can use, but I thought I'd check in here and get some input before I do any drilling.

I run 147gr Zero's at about 1.145" though mine tend to only vary about +-.002" I've not had any length related failures, though I could see if you were loading much longer there could be problems with feeding. Keep in mind, functioning lengths for different bullets may vary. Zero's I believe have a pretty large hollow point. What works with one profile may not with another.

I'm waiting on an SJC comp and slide racker, then I'll post a couple pics.

the 3 springs in the kit look like a cut down stock plunger spring, Wolf reduced power striker spring, and wolf trigger spring. Before I bought the kit I bought the wolf springs so I had them sitting with my kit to compare. I could be wrong though. Whatever he uses, I used what came in my package and I love it, incredible improvement over my previous home job.

Alright, thanks. I'm new to open stuff, just shooting GSSF right now. Figured it would be better to ask then mess up my lense.

What works best for cleaning C-more and other optic lenses? I noticed mine is getting foggy from comp excrement. Thanks in advance

I'm new to compensated guns... Why would I want to oil my comp?