xtian999

Yes, it did not cycle fully to the rear. Bolt did not strip a round off mag or jammed it at an angle. Bolt sometimes not locking back after last round. Happened dozens of times in class. Used brand new Magpul Pmag 30rds. No, it did not work well on that particular upper before replacing the trigger. That is why we put a new trigger in it. But it did work well with an Aero 300 blk upper before that. I think the installer had a good idea of what he was doing. He sold me the upper and he is a custom gunsmith. He has tried several things to make it work: New bolt, new gas block, new trigger. I did disassemble the cmc cassette. Did not see any warning labels. New spring does not fit. Did not try to reassemble. Bottom line is this: I need a rifle that works. I don’t really care whose name is on the parts. What do I need to do to get this thing running?

Had a cmc trigger installed on an Aero lower and took it to a rifle class where it short stroked repeatedly. Instructor put the upper on his gun and it ran fine. His diagnosis was that the hammer spring was too heavy. Looking at his spring, it was much lighter. Bought a stock hammer spring and tried to install it and realized that it will not fit into the cmc trigger group. Before I put it all back together, I would like to ask here if the heavy spring is the problem and if so, where would I find a lighter cmc spring? They are not listed on the website.

I would buy another for $300 or so. I agree that they are accurate and good to build on. The country of origin helps with the price. I shot mine yesterday at a combat rifle and shotgunning class (taught by Calvin Tidwell of T-N-T) and it functioned flawlessly.

Here’s the story: I bought it from an individual seller at a gunshow, (who happened to be my mailman Flaco,) for $300.00 about 15 yrs ago. Then sold it to a friend about a year ago for about $400.00 in silver bullion, who traded it off to his buddy. That guy traded it back to me along with a nice 6” 1974 Ruger Security Six 357 blued revolver, (match sights, custom grips), in exchange for a 1982 Auto Ordinance semi-auto tommy gun (vertical fore grip, 1 stick mag, 1 50rd drum, fitted case,) w/a dinged bolt face that I had taken in as part collateral on a loan to someone who never paid up. Since I got the Norinco back, I put about $300.00 into it. New sights, new beavertail safety, tuned trigger, balanced and blueprinted. It shoots like a dream now, (Thank you, Hayes Custom Guns.) The Norinco? About $500. The Story? Priceless.

I was told that matches do not do suppressors b/c the microphones in the timers cannot discern the muffled shots from the background noise.

I could never leave a gun dirty for long anyway.

I have not looked closely at quick disconnects, just screw the can on whichever gun I am using. Normally I would take the 300 blk if a can is needed (varmints, etc.) but I like to have the option of using the 223 for longer shots. It has a lighter barrel and balances better. I would love to see suppressed matches. That would be perfect!

Burnt oil is probably worse than spent powder. I guess running a patch or two before shooting is a good idea. I have some felt wads that go through my pellet guns after shooting, maybe something like that in a lightly loaded cartridge would be cool.

I want to have a compensator on my 223 barrel for competition and also want to swap out my 30 cal suppressor occasionally for non-competetive shooting. It would be nice to leave an adapter on and have the comp and the can use 5/8-24 threads. But if I run a 5/8 - 24 threaded compensator over a 1/2 - 28 to 5/8 - 24 adapter, would the compensator still be effective, assuming that it was a 30 cal bore? Or does someone make a 223 compensator with 5/8 threads? Are compensators indexed? Does removal and later reattachment affect accuracy? Would it be better to just take the adapter off every time and use a 1/2 - 28 thread 223 compensator?

So contact with the rod will degrade the crown, muzzle, and bore. That makes sense. I was always taught that spent powder was corrosive and would eat away at the internal components and ruin the rifling. I have actually lost sleep on when there was a gun that had not been cleaned sitting around. I am thinking that some bore damage comes from rust forming in the bore between cleanings. Not from residue, but just raw metal and air. I usually shoot some remoil down the bore after cleaning to prevent this. Is that wrong too?

Penny Can!

Three new bookmarks.

Much to learn...

I guess the main problem is that it is a Norinco. But anyway, I took the pistol to Hayes Custom and they are cutting it for a Wilson fiber optic front and low profile rear. Nice guys, by the way.

I will “look into that.”

I wanted to make a weighted dummy mag for dry firing. I looked around the house for something about the right size and weight to fill an empty mag body and ended up packing about 26 quarters and a foam ear plug or two into a broken 7-round Colt mag. It feels just like a loaded mag when I’m dry firing. I may remove a few and leave room for a snap cap next time.

That’s not what I meant. And your joke is in bad taste.

I’m out West around the Y at Oak Hill, so that’s kind of far, but he goes on the list. Thanks.

Can anyone suggest a shooting coach for a beginner in or around Austin? I would like to get up to speed w/o wasting time and ammo on bad habits. I prefer the 1911 single action trigger, so I posted here. I am closest to Red’s S., but I can go wherever.

I have done it. It is the double action then to single action that gets me. I do not do it with my 1911.

Just read the news that Remington has filed for chapter 11.

I saw some good shooting out there today. Nice folks too!

Ok. The rod is the thing. Thank you.

This can’t be right: I read somewhere that cleaning the bore from the muzzle can cause damage to the crown and first inch of the bore. I will not always clean the bore of my firearms from the breech, but if this notion is true, I will feel a little sad when I do.