R.Elliott

Try Hodgedon Clays, International Clays, VVN310 and N320. Those are all fast powders, with Clays and N310 being the fastest. Also the highest pressure, so be cautious. VV powders meter better and give smaller extreme spreads than the Hodgedon versions, but are more spendy.

Stock = small frame Stock II = large frame.

No, I wasn't there. I can almost never get that much time off from work at that time of year. I know who they were though. All good guys.

Here's a way to make sure your arms are positioned correctly and for neutrality. (no gun) bend forward from the waist and let both arms dangle naturally with no tension in front of the body. Notice the natural relaxed bend at the elbow. Now preserving this bend, place your hands together as you would in a shooting grip and straghten up, raising your arms into shooting postion in front of your body. Your arms SHOULD now be in a more or less correct position, but you may still have to tweak slightly to find your true center. This is usually pretty close though. If your left arm is traightening overmuch I would say you are pushing to the left too far out of center. Body alignments bases on natural relaxed postions are more repeatable than postitons which rely on tension.

If you plumb an imaginary line straight through the center of both elbow joints (perpendicular to the joints major rotational axis) the lines should intersect roughly in front of the master eye. You can get a feel for this by setting up in front of a mirror and observing the necessary alignments. Put another way; too much elbow rotation outwards over-tensions the shoulders and too much rotation downwards permits the gun to flip at the elbows in recoil. Experiment to find your individual "sweet spot."

I agree with Henning on this one. Of every gun I've looked at so far with this problem, one was crappy loads with high primers and all the rest were over travel screw related. Most people tend to set these too close no matter what brand of gun (STand SV guns included) they are shooting, and it just leads to problems. A little more play won't affect your triggering in a negative way, but will enhance reliabilty. When you hold the hammer back with your thumb and relase the sear gently as you ease the hammer forward, you should not feel or see the hammer hooks forcing their way past the sear. It should release cleanly, and if it does this it will clear the half cock notch no problem.

I'm shooting Saturday. Can't wait. Shooting the SC Championships the weekend before as well. This is the first time both matches dovetailed in perfectly with my holidays. More of this please!!

Trigger Slick (graphite grease). Works great and sticks like s**t to a blanket.

Polish the mainspring channel and hammer strut and then dump in some nice gooey grease. Polish not only the trigger plunger but the race it rides in using a craytex disk. Polish the contact points on the disconnector and the corresponding slots on the slide (they are usually rough with tool marks). Use graphite grease (trigger slick) on the trigger plunger and on the sear cage ramps and the contact surface on the interruptor. Keep your springs well lubed as well with grease of a nice thick oil. This includes the plunger spring. These guns run best a smoothest when kept nice and juicy.

Chrome stainless. Not a hard chrome surface. are you sure of that. because i am pretty sure its a finish when i ground off the front and back of my grips it did rust. leo edit: and technically stainless has chromium in it depending on the type. Hmmmmm, well I guess it depends on the alloy recipe. And as far as I know stainless is only corrosion resistant; not corrosion proof. Anyway, I'm only going by what I was told it is, but I do know it isn't hard chromed. FWIW: I've dehorned my guns around the trigger guards and knocked the corners off the safeties so they don't bite my knuckles, and so far no discoloration.

Chrome stainless. Not a hard chrome surface.

Full-auto washing machine (wink).

Uh-oh...... Bad stuff again, right? I knew it.

The Sidewinders are great on 1911's and for them I don't think there is anything better. The Sidewinder concept is great for the Tanfo's but in my opinion will require some mods to be truely funtional because the slide dovetail is much lower compared to a 1911 gun. Accordingly when mounted for a left side pull (right handed shooter) they sweep out rather low relative to the safety and tend to hang up on the thumb during the draw stroke. Mine required some bending and filing to get it to fit so as not to impede my draw (or knock my thumbnail off). I know the photo isn't great but you can sort of see how it angles upward now rather than out. It works great this way though. http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/rel...os/100_0423.jpg So if you're thinking about something made specifically for the Tanfo line Henning, do consider thumb clearance for left side mounting. I don't know if they make the Sidewinder for Left handers.

Extractor extractor extractor extractor extractor extractor extractor extractor extractor extractor extractor extractor extractor extractor extractor extractor.......................

There's another option: CR Speed holsters benefit from a specific modification to fit Tanfo' pistols. http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/rel...os/100_0364.jpg http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/rel...os/100_0365.jpg This mod keeps the muzzle from accidentally lifting off the peg when the trigger lock is applied. I also later installed a small spacer block inside the trigger guard channel to prevent any downward movement so that an empty gun can't be inadvertently pushed down and half-cock the hammer. Not totally necessary but nice to have. Modded this way the gun doesn't move at all in the holster, releases very easily (even with torque applied deliberately), and when locked in place won't come out even if you yank on it hard. A high-torque belt is always an asset though. We had a guy (new shooter) in the area who didn't set his CR up properly and compounded the problem by putting his thumb on the safety while in the holster during the draw stroke. Using the CR standard set-up it was possible to have the trigger locking bar contact the trigger surface if the gun was cantilevered out slightly forward, and this combined with a safety that was off when it shouldn't have been resulted in a .40 caliber hole in his foot. In terms of where you draw from; where ever feels the most natural is probably best for you. Just make sure the rig is set up correctly and you should be fine. Good luck

Had a few break on me and fixed a bunch for guys up here who have broken them. One had the claw round off and start leaving empty in the chamber. It was pretty much new.

Don't forget the tool steel extractors!!

Tool steel extractors.

You can get SP2??? The Holy Grail. You are a God sir! I have a benevolent benefactor. Well he must be God then. That stuff ain't easy to get.

You can get SP2??? The Holy Grail. You are a God sir!

Think of it as a "lubrication port?"

Yes. The contact surface on the sear which is engaged by the small notch on the back of the trigger stirrup can be dressed back, as well as the notch itself. Go slowly and test often, as it is possible to go too far. A little goes a long way with this.

Interesting idea. I like it. You could have different inserts as well with different amounts of offset, just like SV triggers...... I suppose I should mention though that it is possible to shorten the trigger reach by quite a bit with these triggers. It's done internally; I've done it on both of my guns and they are now the correct reach for my hands. I have small mitts too, so they probably wouldn't have to go much shorter for most people.

World Class used to make straight triggers similar to those; I had one in my old P-9 and loved it. Since I couldn't find anything like that for the newer Tanfo's with the larger frames I took the liberty of straightening a stock trigger by grinding off and reshaping everything I could while preserving it's length. It's definitely straighter, but not totally straight. Feels pretty good though. At some point I'm going to grab a spare so I can afford to be a little more aggressive and try some heat on it. Anyway, here's what it looks like. http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee1/rel...os/100_0393.jpg