Almo

I used an out-of-the-box PM9 for Steel Challenge and did very well with it. I'm sure it will work well for USPSA too. The two extra rounds compensate somewhat for the minor scoring.

johnbu, is there a new discount code? It says "polodna" is not valid.

Never mind. This time I was able to go to the site without getting the warning.

I tried the Sight-Tool sight mover and it worked pretty good. It really holds the slide in place and keeps it from twisting. Setting it up is fairly involved, but not too bad once you're used to it. One thing they don't tell you in the instructions, that is very useful when changing the direction you're pushing the sight, is that you can remove the pin holding in the silver bar that the pusher rides on, withdraw the bar, and put the pusher back on in the opposite direction.

Does anyone have a phone number for RHT? When I try to look them up on the internet, I get a warning that the site is not secure and someone is probably trying to steal my information.

I agree with rowdyb - Shield, 10C, and Tangfolio 9. I'd like to be able to simplify that much, or close to it. After selling a dozen guns, I'm down to just two completely packed safes. I think I need to sell a few dozen more.

I just ordered one of these. It clamps on the slide from top and bottom. When I get a chance to try it, I'll let you know how it works.

My concern was the shape of the Shadow 2 slide - basically triangular with no real flat vertical surface to push against. It twists in my universal sight mover. Has anyone had experience with a sight mover that definitely worked on the Shadow 2?

My Shadow 2 was shooting 5" to the left at 25 yards, so I needed to move it a little. My rear sight on my Shadow 2 was so tight, my universal sight pusher wouldn't budge it. Because of the shape of the slide (angled top), there wasn't enough bearing surface to keep the slide from twisting in the sight pusher. I finally had to put it in a vice and pound the shit out of it with a hammer and punch just to move it 1/32". And, yes, I removed the set screws before I started. I may be in the market for a better sight pusher. Muncie21, do you know if the sight mover you have pictured would work on the Shadow 2?

MikieM, I assume that means you pull straight back. I have 5 DA/SA autos and 2 revolvers. I experimented with all of them. In every case, when I get a normal grip, my pull is straight back. In no case do I pull at a downward angle. Also, in 6 out of 7 cases, I can reduce the double action pull by 1.0-2.0 pounds by pulling at a downward angle. Only my Tangfolio Stock 2 doesn't seem to change; that may be due to the curvature of the trigger.

I think I must have gotten one of the Shadow 2's with a good factory trigger. I added a CGW 11.5# hammer spring and reduced power trigger spring. I also added an 11# recoil spring and an extended firing pin, but they shouldn't affect the trigger pull. I measured a 7lb 11oz double action and 2lb 7oz single action, both very smooth. I had ordered the wrong trigger pin and had to wait to get a replacement - excellent service from CGW getting me a replacement, by the way. I was surprised that, when I installed the trigger pin, the double action dropped to 7lb 5oz and the single action dropped to 2lb 3oz. By the way, I believe a lot of the discrepancy in double action trigger pulls is how they are measured. I hold the gun upright (perpendicular to the table) and pull straight back (parallel to the barrel axis). I think this best replicates how the gun is actually fired. I've noticed from watching videos of people measuring trigger pulls, most pull downward at about a slight angle and/or hold the gun canted 90 degrees (parallel to the table). If I pull at a slight downward angle, I can measure a double action trigger pull of 6lb 1oz. And if I hold the gun parallel to the table, I can reduce the pull another 2 oz. That's a big discrepancy solely due to how the measurement is taken. Anyone have any thoughts on setting a standard method for measuring trigger pull?

Could be the S&B brass. I found their 9mm primer pockets were small. I get a lot of primers tilting or crushing when I load S&B Brass. Don't have the ptoblem with other brands. Could be the same on 45. If you have a primer pocket swager, you could try that. For 9mm, I just toss them. There's plenty of 9mm available. If you don't have a lot of them, consider tossing them.

It seems like Mecgar is making magazines for everyone these days. If I see Mecgar and the round count is right, I wouldn't hesitate. Any other off brand, I'd stay away until I read a few glowing reviews.

I had one but I didn't like it because I was used to the locking thumb grip rather than the thumb over thumb grip. But, after your comment, I reinstalled it. I have been getting used to the thumb over thumb grip on my 2011. It doesn't feel too bad now. Now the question is: If I get a 97B and can't readily reach the safety, will the extended safety for the Tactical Sport fit the 97B?

I have a CZ Accu-Shadow which I have no trouble reaching the safety on. I also have a CZ Tactical Sport which I have major trouble reaching the safety on. I was considering a CZ 97B, but I can't find one locally to handle. So, I'd probably have to order it. But, I didn't want to commit to it if there's a chance I will have trouble reaching the safety. Does anyone own both the 97B and the Tactical Sport, or possibly even the Shadow too, who can tell me how the reach to the safetys compare?

Tripp Cobra has been totally reliable in 10-round 9mm. 8-round .45ACP not so much.

Rarely. I shoot it mostly for fun. But, then, I'm relatively new to the "new" revolver game. I only recently got my first 8-shooter. In the old days, I used to shoot it at almost every match, along with my auto. I won revolver class frequently. But it was a different game back then. My old 6-shot revolvers without moon clips wouldn't be as competitive today.

Thanks, guys. It sounds like there really aren't any ways to do it that are much better than a stock military sling. I know in an old thread quite a few people said they used a VTAC on their M1A. I was hoping one of them had a clever method of attachment.

How do you attach a VTAC sling to an M1A? I know they make an adapter for the butt that allows a top connection. But, with the front connection underneath the rifle, it seems like the rifle would tend to roll a little. And, if you just looped it around the forearm, it seems like it would slide.

I bought mine over the counter so I could inspect it. It didn't have a lot of the problems others have seen, but it wasn't great. Trigger pull was way higher than advertised. It needed a trigger job just to get down to the advertised double action pull. Then I had to have the cylinder set back to get it in spec for reliable ignition. Even with the higher than desired trigger pull, it shoots well. I rarely shoot revolver. But, I did shoot it in one steel challenge match and came within 10 seconds of my best auto score. So I'm glad I have it. But, I wouldn't buy another unless I thought I was going to get real serious about revolver and was willing to spend a lot of money on gunsmithing.

I checked and the eyepiece can't be changed on the Ventana. But, that's not really the issue. It has 24-26 mm eye relief, which is usable but not ideal. The clarity and fine focus are the issues for me on that scope. The Vortex Razor has 18-20 mm eye relief, which makes it difficult for me to get close enough. The 30-32 mm eye relief on some of the fixed power optics sounds ideal.

It sounds like the long eye reliefs are fixed power. What power do I need (assuming good glass like the ones mentioned above) to clearly see .22 holes in the black at 200 yards? All the variable power scopes I was looking at go up to 60x, but I suspect that isn't necessary with quality glass.

I was thinking of upgrading my spotting scope; I don't see as well as I used to. I have a Leupold Ventana 20-60 now. I went to look through a couple higher end scopes - Vortex Razor 20-60 and Swarovski 20-60. With my glasses on, all I could see was a small circle of light no matter how much I adjusted the eyepiece. With my glasses off, I could get right up close to the lens and see it better. But the range where I'd be using it doesn't allow you to take your shooting glasses off to look through the spotting scope. Does anyone have a similar problem? Which spotting scopes have better eye relief? Would a fixed magnificatin be any better?

For an all shotgun stage, I had a 12 round Carbon Arms, a 4 round AP, and 9 in the shotgun. And, after a couple misses on a Texas star, I ran out and couldn't finish. Stages can get ridiculous. Keep the 24, just leave some empty slots on shorter stages.

147 Berry's plated 4.0 N340 1.130 Federal Case & Primer 895 fps, 131.6 PF 147 Berry's plated 4.1 N340 1.130 Federal Case & Primer 913 fps, 136.1 PF 125 Zero JHP 4.1 N320 1.110 Mixed Cases & Federal Primer 1,038 fps, 129.8 PF Same load on a warmer day: 125 Zero JHP 4.1 N320 1.110 Mixed Cases & Federal Primer 1,060 fps, 132.5 PF