rvb
-
Posts
1,575 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by rvb
-
-
rvb
in Range Diary
Been a while since I've been on here... Been dry firing about 4 nights/week. Starting to get grooved in and breaking through some par barriers I hadn't been able to hit since switching to the Glock. Hoping to get a little live fire in before my first matches of the season here in a couple weeks.
I got new contacts.... They're awesome, I can see front sites and reticles clearly now. Is awesome! First time I've been happy w. my prescription in a couple years. Thinking about getting some Oakley or wileyXs w a prescription lens.
Been dry firing the AR, too, working getting into/out of some positions, reloads, and presenting to the first shot from different positions (table top, low ready, etc).
DYING to get back on the range soon
-rvb
-
rvb
in Range Diary
Down 20 lbs !
-
rvb
in Range Diary
First real live practice session of 2013 today. 40s, snow on the ground. Oh yea.
Went through 200-250 rounds
Lots of rust to knock off after several months, so I'm going to focus on the positive.
Main thing I wanted from this session was confince in my grip. I have gotten a couple weeks of dry fire in trying to resolve some problems (LH too high preventing the slide from locking back, RH getting eaten by the slide, and trigger finger placement for best accuracy). I think I can go forward w. confidence that those issues have been fixed and my new "right" grip seems adequately burned in.
Accuracy: still hitting a bit right. I -think- its trigger control. I shot 2 groups at 25 yds freestyle. They were 3-3/8" and 3-1/4". They were centered 2.5 and 3.5" right.
Need to work on the visual speed. I felt the gun was ahead of me all day. I wasnt calling every shot and many calls were on the general location, not the specific spot. I see lots of timing and bill drills in my future. Bill drills in the 2.4 range, none clean. El prezs were in the 5.3-5.6 range, but ave points was probably in the 40 range.
Reloads need a bunch of work. They were consistently 1.4-1.5.
Turn draws were slow, but lack of traction in the snow was a factor...
SHO and WHO draws went well, both in the 1.2 range. Best freestyle draw (testing grip consistency at grip&rip speeds) was .78 w a .11 second shot (3yds).
I'm not going to worry about the numbers. I consider today a success in that I finally have the kinks in my grip worked out on this goofy Glock thing. No blood. The slide locked back every time, and the tick of sight wobble is just a matter of getting consistent with my trigger press ( still on the fence if the sights need drifted a smudge). Now to turn up the dry fire...
-rvb
-
I entered this into Hornady ballistic calculator using the provided info for MV and a ballistic coefficient of .5, from left to right at the maximum speed of 30 mph, it yields .5" shift at 25 yds and 1.0" shift at 50 yds. For 20 mph it was .3" and .5".
Just thought to plug the info into a ballistic calculator. It's showing 1.5" off for a 25mph wind. Looks like it was a combination of wind and me....
-rvb
1.5" ?! As my Garmin would say . . . recalculating!
I plug 30 mph at 90* into http://handloads.com/calc/ and it comes up to 1.86" at 25 yds ......
-rvb
-
rvb
in Range Diary
Went to FWRR this afternoon for a bit, primarily to test some 55gr rifle rounds before I load a bunch. Brrr... It was about 18*.
I was a bit disappointed. Groups at 100yds were consistently at 2". The load is the same as it used to be, only I set up a second toolhead and started using the dillon trimmer. I expected more consistency in my brass and was hoping for ~1". I think I'm going to remove all crimp and see if that helps. Currently only a very slight kiss w the crimping die.
Load is 25.0gr H355, 55gr Hornady fmjbt
I'm really stuggling seeing both the reticle and the target clearly. I HAVE to call soon and get an apt to deal w. this awful right eye prescription.... Keep putting it off due to time and money.....
I shot about 15 rounds w. the G34..... I couldn't hit the broad side of a barn. I was using a 25yd NRA slow fire target at 25 yds.... I mostly kept them on the paper! Ouch. I'm blaming hypothermia......
-rvb
-
-rvb
-
yup, agree w/ all the others on pulling the bcg and sighting down the bore to get you started. recently finished an upper and put on a 1-4 scope. I didn't even use a vise, just set it on the bench at the range. Got me w/in 2" at 50yds for the first couple of rounds. knowing the moa/click I was dead on w/in 5 rounds and another 5 to verify... so ~10 rounds total at 50 yds and I was done, then moved to the 300yd line to test my holds and ballistic calculator results for my scope's stadia.
-rvb
-
Have you tried lubricating the barrel extension first? You can also polish the extension with a strip of emory cloth, shoe shine fashion, to slightly reduce outside diameter.
Mark
Looks like it's the alignment pin thats the issue, not the OD of the extension. I'd just hit the sides of the pin w/ a file...
-rvb
-
rvb
in Range Diary
Just ordered a set of Wiley-X Guard safety glasses off Amazon for $60. Had my last set of glasses since ~2005 and they are getting cracked/scratched/worn. Went to the website for my old glasses and realized there were no safety ratings for their lenses! theyre Really just sun glasses. Shame on the vendor that sold them at a major match as safety/shooting glasses and shame on me for not doing the research.
-rvb
One range session in with these... really comfortable. didn't fog (but maybe it was too windy for them to fog, despite the 50* temps). no distortion, even when looking through the very top when shooting rifle. I think I'm going to like them for the reasonable $60 price.
-rvb
-
rvb
in Range Diary
Getting back into the swing of things.
Planning to shoot production again in 2013. I have about 6k rounds loaded. Hopefully that won't be enough....
Did 3 nights of dryfire w/o a timer. Basic draw / index re-development.
I now have done 2 nights of dryfire w/ a timer, also Basic draw / index / reload re-development. pars set a couple tenths high just to get back into things. about 45 min / night.
I'm struggling with a grip that keeps me low enough to not get chewed by the slide but that lets me get a good trigger press.
I went to the range last weekend. Mostly played w/ the 10/22. I got it a year or so ago and have barely shot it. Lots of fun. I see a .22 silencer in my future. 50 yd groups in the 2" range. Tried an un-timed appleseed qual at 25yds. Didn't do very well, only a 175. struggling to see the FS well and needing new contacts...
I shot a few 5-shot groups w/ the G34 at 25 yds. Freestyle I was keeping them in the 3-4" range. It was super windy and hard to stay on target. I tried from a bench and got it down to 2.3". I was hitting about 4" right. I thought maybe it was the wind (discussed here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=166877), but that couldn't have been all of it. I think I was too far on the tip of my trigger finger. So I've been working on the dime drill. Last fall I could do 30 straight trigger pulls before getting bored. Now I can't do more than a couple, so I have my work cut out for me there. Group sizes say I'm consistent, but hitting that far right says I suck.
I think the guns are working, so I have no excuse to not shoot / dryfire the hell out of them this spring.
Ordered a new "toy," an AAC 762-SDN-6.
hopefully by next Christmas I'll be able to take posession...-rvb
-
Not a clam shell but sold by DPMS and would work for your purposes.
Not a good idea - it doesn't support the receiver enough to protect against possible damage from installing/torquing the barrel.
It the upper is a flat top, these blocks work just fine. What I do is put the upper/block sideways in the vise w/ a block of wood between the vise and the top rails. It's very solid when done this way.
-rvb
-
Just thought to plug the info into a ballistic calculator. It's showing 1.5" off for a 25mph wind. Looks like it was a combination of wind and me....
-rvb
-
Shooting 25yd groups today in 20mph sustained (30mph gusts) winds, blowing 90 degrees left to right. 9mm 147s at 930fps. I struggled freestyle due to the wind and my groups were right of center. I decided to shoot off a bench. I called good shots, and was very happy with my group size (2.3" from a Glock 34), but it was 4" right.
Could the wind really push them that far in just 25 yds? Or more likely trigger control or poor grip on the rest?
Sights don't appear to have moved, and I always thought that they were dead on (previous 25yd freestyle groups were dead on).
I have little experience in the wind (part of why I went out today and spent some time w. the 10/22). More experienced opinions welcome!
-rvb
-
... though I do recognize the increased safety possibilities, but I come from the, "don't ever touch the trigger until your on target and ready to shoot," school.
Tar
The "increased safety" bit Doc Hunter is referring to has nothing to do with trigger finger discipline, it has to do w/ how easy or hard it is to accidently bump fire a second round. Some people tend to have this happen easily, some never at all ... depends on how they shoulder the gun and manipulate the trigger. The additional reset length of a 2-stage may allow a person who sometimes "doubles" the trigger to not have that problem.
-rvb
I dont understand the "Bump fire" thing.
How many of us shoot super light single action pistols? No one ever complains of bump firingthose? The shotguns I compete with all have very crisp light triggers, and recoil much more than any AR. Never bump fired one, nor have I witnessed anyone bump firirng one on a skeet/trap/sporting clays field. Never bump fired my AR. Rattled off VERY fast splits somewhat accidentally during rapid fire? Yes, but I do not consider that bump firing. I entended to pull the trigger.
However, I do agree that the original reason for a two stage trigger had alot to do with safety, much like the set trigger on a Kentucky rifle.
Precision shooters needed a trigger that broke extremely crisp and light, but still had enough engagement when cocked to be safe to carry around. That is hard to achieve with a lot of single stage fire control systems.
It all comes down to the shooter, or if the stage puts you in an awkward position. It happens... you can see some examples in this sub-forum. I think the most recent discussion was on the G-3G triggers.... (http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=162870). I've only had it happen w/ an M1A (which was loosing it's second stage).
-rvb
-
... though I do recognize the increased safety possibilities, but I come from the, "don't ever touch the trigger until your on target and ready to shoot," school.
Tar
The "increased safety" bit Doc Hunter is referring to has nothing to do with trigger finger discipline, it has to do w/ how easy or hard it is to accidently bump fire a second round. Some people tend to have this happen easily, some never at all ... depends on how they shoulder the gun and manipulate the trigger. The additional reset length of a 2-stage may allow a person who sometimes "doubles" the trigger to not have that problem.
-rvb
-
The RRA I have the most experience with definitely reset further than a mm in front of the second stage... How did you measure it? At what point of the trigger?
"Measured" (estimated) at the bottom of the trigger. Pulled trigger, charged it, slowly released, marked the point w/ a pencil, pulled back till it stopped and marked again. Nothing scientific.
To clarify, there is no "sear" in either configuration, and the first stage of a RRA or SSA is most certainly "creep", not "pre-travel".
Well I guess I don't know what RRA or Geissele calls it, but certainly in an M1/M14 they call the piece that the hammer contacts to create the second stage a sear. It also acts as the disconnect. I even pulled out my Kuhnhausen .30 cal manual to make sure my memory wasn't playing tricks on me.
During the first stage, you are actively decreasing the amount hammer/trigger engagement area. That is by definition "creep".
"Pre travel" is most commonly defined as the distance fire control components must travel before they begin affecting or altering the sear/hammer (or in an ARs case) the hammer/trigger engagement relationship.
You're trying to make my point too technical (usually that's.my thing!). Im just talking about the user/trigger interaction, not the internal compnent interaction. Forget the mechanics. On both a 1911 (or SA in most DA/SA) and a 2-stage, there is some trigger movement with some slight resistance, then you hit the weight of the sear/2nd-stage, a crisp release, then some over travel.
You're right the reset is slightly different due to the handoff of the hammer from the sear to the trigger lugs on the 2-stage. For ME I've found trying to find/feel the reset point slower and more likely to result in trigger freeze than just getting off the trigger letting it reset fully, then focusing on my next shot....
-rvb
-
I think the main difference for me is the fact that on Geissele or RRA type two stage, you have to let the trigger return well into the first stage before the dissconnector lets go of the hammer and "resets". This is why a two stage is slower.
I disagree that this function is similiar to a good 1911 trigger, because if you ride the reset on the 1911, the sear is ready to be tripped again as soon as the disco resets. If you let the trigger pass that point, and return into the "pretravel", that is the users choice, but not necessary. On the two stage, you will have to take up some of the first stage, or the glorified "creep" before you break the hammer engagement.
That being said, I love a GOOD two stage trigger... especially for precision work. However, a nice, light, crisp single stage is hard to beat IMO.
A good example of why it comes down to personal preference. I couldn't have told you where the reset point is on either my RRA or Geisselle SSA triggers. I simply don't care, and that's why I pointed out I'm not a reset rider... I just pulled them out of the safe. The RRA reset point is about 1mm in front of the sear, the SSA is about 2mm.
I wouldn't call it creep, I would call it pretravel, again sim to a 1911.
A 2stage in no way slows my trigger speed any. Could it for someone such as yourself who rides the reset? Maybe. But a 2stage itself is in no way inherently slower.
-rvb
-
Or am I just looking for ways to spend extra money and none of it is worth it?
IMO, use the $ for more ammo.
-rvb
-
It is completely preference...
yup. Helps to try both if you can, even just dryfire...
The only thing I can liken it to on a pistol is the difference between a 1911 and a glock trigger... 1911=single stage, glock/m&p/xd/etc= two stage...I prefer a 2-stage, and part of that is because it feels most like a good pistol trigger to me. Just like a 1911, there is some pre-travel that accounts for part of the pull weight, a stop on the sear, and some overtravel. I can shoot the rifle similar to how I shoot a pistol. To shoot fast I can pull fully through, just like I would a pistol (I'm a 'slapper' vs a reset-rider), but slow I can take up the slack, make final adjustments, and release the sear...
A glock is like a really crappy/stacky Geissele 3G trigger...
I don't know what equates to a single-stage... a cocked revo perhaps.
-rvb
-
Could it be pinned (especially if a shorter barrel, eg 14.5")?
-rvb
-
rvb
in Range Diary
Just ordered a set of Wiley-X Guard safety glasses off Amazon for $60. Had my last set of glasses since ~2005 and they are getting cracked/scratched/worn. Went to the website for my old glasses and realized there were no safety ratings for their lenses! theyre Really just sun glasses. Shame on the vendor that sold them at a major match as safety/shooting glasses and shame on me for not doing the research.
-rvb
-
I like to get into ports farther than most say I "should." I feel the farther out I am the more time I spend shuffling feet and visually hunting for targets to transition to if there is an array on the other side. I cannot transition quickly if I cannot snap my eyes to the next target. The time it takes to pull the gun in to me (and out of the port) pales in comparison to time lost in transitions, imo. The bigger I can make the "window" seem (be being closer), the more I can see, and the more I can see the faster I can transition. If the transitions are close and I can see more than one target while being farther back, I'll do it, but that seems to be the exception...
-rvb
-
I use one from time to time. The biggest advantage is the shorter carrier travel to reset the trigger, which is handy if practicing prone and mono'ing off a magazine (too easy to lock the bolt back with the mag in, otherwise). nice to be able to reset w/o loosing cheek weld, too....
another downside is it "cheats" your shot, so if you're practicing accuracy such as the dime drill, the hammer doesn't hit as hard.
-rvb
-
rvb
in Range Diary
Just picked up Ed McGivern's Book of Fast and Fancy Revolver Shooting, $2.51 on kindle for some thanksgiving weekend reading...
-rvb
ohio mag laws
in USPSA/IPSC Shooting
Posted · Edited by rvb
I found the following in my research (when researching taking title-2 firearms into OH)...
2923.11 defines "Dangerous Ordanance"
It also defines an "automatic firearm" as
So that's just the definitions....
now the code that makes them illegal is in section 2923.17
However, an exception is granted:
So to me, this says that mags holding more than 30 rounds (except for .22s) are illegal unless the firearm is registered in the NFRTR (ie, you have your "class 3" tax stamp). This is how I determined I can take my registered/SBR'd 9mm AR w/ 32-round mags and silencer into OH (w/ ATF permission on a 5320.20, of course).
I'm not a lawyer, so if someone understands differently let me know!
I also understand pre-emption means the toledo/cincy/et-al bans no longer have weight.
-rvb
ps. here is the link to the code: http://codes.ohio.gov/orc/2923