AustinMike

When mine does that, stopping and cleaning up the bar usually fixes it. If not, replace the plastic piece on the feeder tube. Also check that the primer cup and seating ram hasn't loosened up from the bar. I had that happen before.

I used to hate Glocks after trying friends' guns. This was before I got into USPSA shooting. Through the coaching of some very good shooters, I learned how to shoot all over again. I discovered that I'd had a really crummy grip for years. Canting my hands forward and rolling my shoulders helped a bunch with my shooting with a 1911. On a whim, I picked up a cheap old G17 police trade-in a few years ago. What do you know...with my new and improved grip, I shot the darn thing pretty well. After playing around in other divisions with 1911s and 2011s, I decided the Glocks just fit right. I now shoot a G34 in Production. For all the bad rap Glocks get from some people over the grip, I really don't see it as much different than a 1911 with an arched mainspring housing.

Hope you're doing alright and thanks for checking in. It really helps to know that others still struggle with sorrow over time. Nobody will say it, but sometimes I feel like people look at me as if to say, "you're STILL not over that?" You have to lose someone really close to you to understand the extent of the grief. Your thread is a help to me after losing Mom last year. The first year, getting through all the "firsts" is especially hard. Yesterday was my first birthday without her.

I usually hate cold weather, but for some reason I'm looking forward to the season this year. It was too damned hot to shoot in south Texas this year. I skipped a lot of matches for that reason. It just wasn't fun. Of course our winter is only about 2 weeks long sometime in January! At least we can go outside in temperatures that aren't in triple digits for the next several months.

Nothing I'd attempt; I'm like a monkey with a hammer. Nobody that knows me lets me be around power tools! I could ask my gunsmith about what it would take to remove my comp and add the sight, assuming it would fit my barrel since I'm not sure of the diameter (I think the rifle may have started life as a Bushmaster varmint though). I thought of maybe just selling my current upper and slapping on another for simplicity.

Does anyone sell a ready-to-go upper with extended sight radius, i.e. the front sight mounted right behind the compensator? Thinking of switching to irons with the least amount of hassle.

Some info on the reporter I found.

Interesting cover story for business week. I shoot Glocks in Production, so not sharing to bash - just thought it was an intriguing write up. Edit to fix spelling error - not enough coffee yet.

As others have said, don't get too hung up on CPU speed. I test server systems for a living and Hyperthreading is over rated IMO. Quad cores are cool if you have the OS, apps, and drivers to take advantage. It really comes down to your intended application and what the hardware as a whole is capable of. I've seen some crazy stuff lately. For example, I've seen some heinous architectural problems on certain chipsets that actually cripple transaction performance when adding a second CPU. This was with applications that we have specifically written to take advantage of multiple cores. I routinely see drivers that will lock onto a single core, preventing further performance scaling once the core is saturated. There can also be bottlenecks throughout the system board. I have seen fairly recent samples of stupid things like slapping a Gig Ethernet port or two behind legacy 32-bit bridges (only about half the bandwidth needed to fully utilize available bandwidth on Gig E.) Block diagrams of system boards are downright amusing sometimes! Since few people ever run at the data rates we do in test, I guess the hardware companies just do things like that and hope nobody notices. Try to find benchmarks that approximate your intended usage (gaming, video editing, database...) for a board, CPU, and video combination that you're interested in.

Tactical Solutions has a Glock .22 conversion?

Never tried a Vanek, but I did run a Sotello trigger kit for a while. I missed the snappy trigger reset and ended up working back to stock one part at a time. I even ran a polished 5# connector in my G34 for a while. Now I'm running all stock internals except for a LWD connector. It has a more crisp break and reset to it than polished stock connectors IMO. My opinion is that a slicked up trigger might allow you to focus on other things, but with practice the stock trigger and a little polishing works fine. When I was shooting with a super duper whiz bang trigger, I was humbled more than once by better shooters running stock Glocks. You don't "need" to spend a lot of money on the trigger to shoot a Glock well, but if it makes you feel more comfortable maybe it's worth it. Sometimes I think I have to try things just to get past the mental blocks I place on my self. "If I only had a better trigger...no, that's not it; I still suck because I don't practice."

I've gotten most of my Glocks from Mark at summitgunbroker.com.

I use propane and silicone oil. I bought a nice brass propane adapter from Manny. Last I looked, it wasn't on his site so you have to call and ask him about it. Propane stinks, but I practice outside in the backyard.

Stock springs here. Tried the lighter stuff and now I'm back keeping it simple.

Very cute! Our toy poodles, Lucy and Chloe, say "woof!"

That would explain why your requests for job assistance last what...10 seconds?

Stupid game. I keep playing it though! Need more mafia members!

I think the new texture might help the Trugrip tape stick better.

Police trade-in or factory refurb Glock 22s can be found all over the place for around $375 or so. I shot one in Limited for a year or so. Lone Wolf barrels are fairly cheap if you think you need it. You have to chamber check your rounds due to the tighter chamber (should do that anyway, so not a big deal.) Personally, I ended up not caring for the Glock in .40/Limited division and sold mine off. I shoot a Glock 34 or 17 in Production now and dig it. Expensive trigger kits are over rated IMO. I've been there and now I'm back to the 25 cent trigger job. I actually shoot with the factory 5# connector in my 34 at the moment. To me, nothing feels as as crisp on the break. The Lone Wolf 3.5# connector is close, but at the moment I favor a polished factor 5#. All other components/springs in my Glocks are factory. When I ran a sub 3# trigger job, I tended to slap the trigger and miss fast. Now, I use the heavier but crisp reset to my advantage and I get my hits. For me anyway, the stock trigger helps me shoot more smooth and deliberately, which ends up being faster and more accurate. Go figure.

It appears to be now. At first, it would stop just short of lockup when the slide was vertical and stay there until tipped horizontal or the trigger was released. Since fiddling with it some more and applying oil in place of the slide guide it's better. The room temperature grease may have been just enough to slow the lockup. I'll go shoot it some more. It's probably just that I'm just not used to having a new Glock that locks up tight. My others looked like they lived hard lives before I got them.

That's what I was hoping. This is my first "virgin" Glock. My G17's were refurbs or police trade-ins - so loose they just about rattle, but shoot fine.

Yep. Bought the gun brand new last year and just got around to messing with it. All that has changed is grip tape, sights, and swapping the connector out for the 5# Glock connector.

I've got a relatively new G34 (maybe 500 rounds through it) and I polished up the internals. It's completely stock except that I put a factory 5# connector in place of the 3.5# to try. I like the crisper break of the 5# connector and wanted to give it a go after polishing - yeah, so I'm weird like that. While function testing, I discovered that if I held the muzzle up with the slide vertical and then drew back and slowly eased the slide forward with the trigger held back, it would stop short of full battery lockup. Tipping the slide back horizontal or releasing the trigger would snap it back. I disassembled the gun again to make sure I didn't get anything in wrong and polished up the firing pin safety and the part of the trigger bar that presses it, figuring that's where the problem probably is given that it closes when the trigger is released. I also wiped the slide glide I had on the rails off and used oil instead. It's better now and I can only get it to do it every so often. It's so close I can practically breath on the slide to get it closed completely. I've only got a couple G17s to compare to and they snap right closed. I'd say the barrel fit is tighter on the newer G34 though. Anything to worry about? If so, what else should I check?

Plastic.

I got to handle one today. Price tag said $485. Feels bulkier and heavier than my 360PD, especially with the Hogue grip. The trigger guard seems huge! I couldn't see carrying this in my pocket as easily as my j-frame. The trigger pull is interesting. Lighter than a typical stock S&W for sure. I could feel a couple places where there is a "bump" in the pull. I could also feel the break point, at which there was a very crisp, clean break. I could also see how this trigger might be prone to short stroking. One of the "bumps" in the trigger movement can deceptively give the feel that it has come all the way forward when it hasn't. The motion to fully reset feels longer than I'm used to and I short stroked it more than once in rapid dry fire. It would take some getting used to. Interesting concept, but I think I'll stick with my current j-frame. I'm not sure how many Ruger will be able to sell at this price point. I'd want to see the new trigger design out there a lot longer before trusting it for a carry gun.