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I think he generally ships once or twice a week and its comes USPS First class.

TTI just announced it is coming in a few colors today.

I currently have the TTI set on mine. But I have used a .250 rear with .235 front and it was just about POA for me. I want to say the TTI prints just about identical.

I have one but don't plan on competing with it anytime soon, mostly because I am new to shooting matches. At any rate, mine works well with Taran sights, Taran Connector/Spring Kit and a Jager steel guide for a G4-34 with a 15lb IMSI spring.

If you are just going FDE you might as well save yourself all the trouble now and the trouble later when the coating starts coming off and just buy an FDE frame from GunBroker.

If you haven't noticed, Glock frames aren't 100% plastic, and thats probably for a reason. So you can probably give up on that idea too, at least in a practical sense. The only chance you have is dying an FDE frame, assuming the plastic will even absorb it. But the end result will be muddy gray or black if you are lucky.

You can't dye black. /thread.

Just be careful when used on a 30S and 41. The thinner slides on wider frames cause the slide to catch on the very edge of the stop. They will work but might need to be replaced sooner.

Not sure who made the adapter in my buddies gun, but I had to lightly tap it out. Are some of you guys changing springs at the match? I don't reload so forgive my ignorance, but how often you have to change springs once you decide what works best for your load?

One annoying downside to the uncaptured guide rod in a Gen4 is having to take the adapter out everytime you want to remove the barrel.

If you are using these guns in Production or SSP the longest mag release that is legal is the 8794. It would really help if you clarified what divisions you are shooting in.

The 13lb spring and steel Jager rod made a huge difference for me in getting the front sight back on target after recoil. I put them in my 17 and 34 and the difference was much more dramatic in the 34. I only shoot factory 115gr.

I've NEVER squeezed Glock mags to take them apart. You can get enough leverage using a Glock tool inserted completely into the hole to pull them off. The baseplate will squeeze the mag for you as you pull it off. This includes factory, Vickers and 10-8 baseplates on new and used mags.

I have been using the Larue Pro Shooters bag that I bought 3 years ago when they offered it in Multicam. They are made my WRB and they come in 3 sizes. It's been great as a general range bag and is probably just the right size for lugging between stages. Quality and durability are outstanding. I frequently use it as a shooting rest for my AR's and aside from some muzzle blast marks from comps, it looks new. I've tried a few flavors of Midway range and rifle bags and I have found that they are pretty low quality but get the job done for the price. I recently bought one the Vertx range bag because I needed something a little bigger for when I need to bring my spotting scope, range finder and other bits when I go rifle shooting but I think I will use it for matches too as the double deck design will allow me to carry what I need without having to dig through a bunch of stuff in a typical range bag.

What rule # says that you can only have 2 magazine carriers in IDPA? Nevermind, finally found it. 8.1.4

If you take your slide off, the trigger should be released and the end of the trigger bar should be under the fold of the connector. If you push the connector tab (with your finger) the end of the trigger bar should pop up. Does it?

Do you have another upper you can try? That should at least tell you where the problem is. If not, I'd try swapping the trigger bar, then striker etc from another gun.

Do you have a different connector you can try?

A picture is worth a thousand words so I whipped this up really quick. Sorry for the quality, I used my iPhone. "Bad" is a common occurrence when reassembling.

Are you sure the trigger spring is positioned correctly on the trigger bar hook? The loop should be vertical. I've seen lots of weird things happen with the loop at the end of the spring is horizontal and usually it's enough to cause binding where the trigger bar doesn't snap up when reset.

Sounds like a connector problem. Is the factory connector installed? When the striker has been released, the rear of the trigger bar (crucifix) should be held DOWN by the connector. When the slide is racked, the tab on the connector rides the ramp on the bottom of the slide and forces the connector towards the center of the gun which releases the trigger bar (reset) and allows the rear of the trigger bar to engage the striker.

I didn't expect you to drive out of state just for this purpose. But the next time you are in Reno or Vegas, for example.

This was the case with both 10 and 17 round mags in both Gen 3 and Gen 4 glocks

Once the round makes contact with the ejector, there is about another 2mm of movement before the mag is seated. It's enough to make the tip of the round angle up. I did this in 4 different 9mm Glocks with similar results.

With the slide closed the rounds bottom out on the spine on the underside of the slide. With the slide locked back they do hit the ejector.