brian45acp

I don't understand what u are saying. So the mag for the rami which has the sleeve isn't the same mag as to p-01? I figured they just slid that sleeve over it to take up the gap. I know the mag inserts and runs just fine. Just not sure if the sleeve will fit the p-01 10 round mag. I Hope it does

Just wanted to share my findings. My mission was to use a spare ccw mag as the one that normally comes with the Rami and has the grip extension sleeve over it. The problem is that mag is a 14 rounder and I am in cali. I emailed CZ saying that I figured the 14 round mag ws from the p-01 and just had the sleeve over it. Could I then use my 10 round p-01 mag just the same and add the sleeve. I was told no that the Rami mags are all to their own. There is also a guy selling the pearce floor plates from an XD slightly modified to work on the Rami flush fit mags allowing the pinky to make in on. I didnt realize XD mags were basically the same as CZ in dimensions. Well, I got my Rami Friday and snuck in a few mags worth between stages at the match yesterday. I used my p-01 10 round mags and it worked just fine. My thoughts were that the CZ full size down to subcompact is just like Glock. A 17 mag works in a 19 and a 26 etc. So now I need to go order the extension and be sure it fits on the mag which I dont see why it wouldnt. The one thing I do want change internally is the trigger return spring. I emailed CZC to ask which spring may work and I will just have to do some research on how to change it out. The reset is just a slight bump and not a solid feel at all. I also wanted to confirm that the sights arent directional and if they need to be removed and installed from a specific side. I will say that I am impressed with this little gun so far. I can shoot it better then my shield and figured that out right away. I still need to spend a bit more time on it but so far I love it.

Follow up: Called CGW and was advised to remove original roll pin and replace with a new one. I did and it pounded in with a fair amount of force so front sight seems more secure. I guess using the original roll pins is sometimes the issue. My set screw on the front sight is locked up solid but doesnt matter since its locked in such a way that its applying just enough interference with the roll pin everything fits tight.

Follow up: 5% springs worked great. My mags were less sensitive to dirt and I ran all 6 stages with out cleaning mags. The 5% springs in the 10 round mags were just about right. With the shorter mag tubes on the 10 rounders the 5% springs are more then likely about 10%.

I just did this. Get the 5% extra power springs from CZ custom shop. There is no separate spring for the 10 rounders they are the same for the full capacity mags. I just ran the 5% springs this saturday and had no issues and my mags were less sensitive to dirt/sand in them compared to the stock springs.

Yeah I tried holding the underside of the sight next to a flame but no go. I dont think it is an issue since the screw seems to be frozen in the perfect position to allow some interference on the roll pin. I am going to call Dawson today and see if they can make a sight with out that darn cut or set screw in it. The sight it self needs to be a bit longer as well since to align the notch with the cross pin it is not actually tight to the end of the dove tail. I really like this sight and maybe I am over thinking this and its not an issue. I just dont want that bushing to come out. From what I am reading on here that is a big problem and not a replaceable part.

On the 10 round mags or high caps?

on the cajun web site he lists which front sight you will need if you were to just purchase the rear. I saw all kinds posts about measuring when I was searching and its confusing as where to measure from in the doevtail or top of slide etc.

I bought the Cajun sight set and love them for my sp-01. I dont like that there is already a notch in the front sight though. I used some loctite and now that little bitty set screw wont budge. Prior to tightening the set screw when I first pushed the roll pin in I was able to do so using a punch and hand pressure which seemed a bit too easy. Once I secured the set screw and the loctite cured it was impossible with that tiny allen to ever get that set screw to loosen or tighten again. So basically it seems its a one chance install and that screw isnt ever moving again. To check how secure the roll pin was I punched it out and back in and seems the set screw is stuck in such a way it now allows just enough interference to make the roll pin nice and tight. I just put a bit more loctite on the roll pin and put it back and left it. I just dont know how much pressure is needed from that roll pin on the bushing area in question. That set screw is seriously the worlds smallest allen I have ever seen. The wrench is like 1/2 long and its so hard to feel any torque when tightening it because the wrench just flexes. My concern is all this talk about the bushing coming loose and it seems these pre drilled sights contribute to that. Odd part is that I cant see any bushing in that dovetail when the front sight is removed. The notch for the roll pin in the slide doesnt show any bushing at all. I expected to see the top side of a bushing with the sight and roll pin removed. I have no idea how the roll pin can hold the bushing in place if its not touching it. I was going to call Dawson and see if they can make me a new front sight exactly like the Cajun one but no notch and drill/pin it. I was freaked out using a drill bit in the slide but I did my P-01 and it was super easy with the CZC drill bit. What do you guys think?

I did some research and it seems the 5% are a better option. I think especially since I have the 10 round mags I bet the 5% will act more like a 10%. Some are saying the spring needs to break in or will have feed issues until then etc.

Thanks guys. I have a brush but will get the Arredondo brush. Actually Ralph shoots USPSA at our club I see him often and all the guys have his stuff.

so those springs I linked above are the right ones even for the 10 rounders? I have 1500 sandpaper. Would that work for smoothing the mags out? I dont really see that being the issue I am having though. The rounds will start to not push back up to the feed lips because mostly they are getting dirty but I am sure some extra power springs will help a bit.

What I mean is a mag with say 7 rounds in it there is no spring pressure and the rounds will just rattle out because the follower isn't pushing up. I'm sure it's because they are dirty but I wouldn't mind some extra power springs. What I'm thinking is the springs that are stock for the 10 round mags may already act like extra power since the tube isn't as long and I think they are the same springs for the full capacity mags. I'm just not sure which springs I would need. Or maybe none at all and just clean my mags. They are a pain to get together though. The retaining plate is difficult to get seated. I saw CZ custom sells a polymer retaining plate I may try but at $8 a piece that better actually be "better" then the presses steel stock ones. So what do u guys think?

I have the 10 round sp-01 mags and they are sensitive to dirt. I havent had a failure yet but by the sixth stage the rounds start getting loose and I can tell its time to clean them. I am wanting to put extra power mag springs in just for added insurance. Are these for the 10 rounds mags also? If they are for full capacity mags I would imaging in the 10 round mags they might be like +20% and I am not sure that would cause issues. http://czcustom.com/CZ75magazinesprings10.aspx Also what is the magic about these? http://czcustom.com/cz-aluminum-base_pad-10_round_standard.aspx

cool thanks. I am always wanting to learn how to work on my guns and replace parts as needed etc. I may not understand how to upgrade them and modify but I at least want to be able to replace broken parts. I noticed little quirks about each of these sp-01s. One right handed safety went in at 90 deg then rotated down and seated just fine the other gun not so much. I had to sort of angle out the detent and then rotate the safety down and push detent into position before installing the sear cage. I imagine a burr on something is all but I seemed to find the trick. The 1500 sand paper made me feel comfortable not having the risk of over doing anything. I still was too chicken to polish any of the other suggested areas, lol. I hit the underside of the slide rail a little but not much and the barrel throat/ramp lightly all by hand. I figured 1500 cant possibly get me into trouble by hand but maybe as I become more comfortable with the gun I will upgrade it. I sort of wanted to prove a point and ran it at the USPSA match just stock and had no issues. 6 inch steel at 20yrds in DA with a stock trigger wasnt an issue but I am sure it could always be nicer if worked over. My point is that playing with the gun on the bench you can feel all kinds of trigger nastiness but in actual use I didnt have an issue. Funny 1 of these guns has a black barrel and the other isnt. Also there are different markings on the slide of each as well. Not sure what any of it means but they arent identical in that respect.

I have another question. These guns have me paranoid about damn taper pins. I measured the mag brake pin and it's not tapered so I didn't put it back in any particular way. I did notice though that this pin goes in by hand and the punch just pushes it right out. Basically the only thing keeping it from walking are the grips sandwiching the pin in the frame. Both my sp-01's are like this. Is this supposed to be like that?

The machine cuts are sort of like angle cuts in the forward part of that rail. Worked fine I had 2 triangle stones one more course and he other fine. I used those to break the edge a bit more then the 1500 paper in my finger along the rail. At the ends of the rail I held a strip of paper and ran it back and forth to finish off. It came out great and with the barrel out and the slide on I sort of worked the slide back and forth with a mag and some rounds in it. I was able to tell a significant difference before and after. Now the rounds don't move or very slightly so I should be good. I also noticed on all my CZ the seat cage has an edge that when a mag is inserted the case rim hits the seat cage and bobbles the round. I did e same and broke that edge and polished it. Now the case rim hits but passes right by.

what grit wet/dry paper shoudl I use for this? I dont want to screw anything up so is there any tricks I need to know about? The edge on both my SP-01's has an odd looking chunk of metal missing. It looks like it was part of the cutting process of the slide but I am not sure why. I figured polishing would help soften and sharp edges. For breaking that edge I imagine just the same wet/dry paper would be good enough if I fold the paper and sort of drag it back and forth over the edge. Just a polish wheel I dont see how you could possibly do this evenly across that long rail. It would have to be something the same width and work it front to backusing even strokes. I do have some fine stones that came with a Spyderco knife sharpeneing kit. The white stone is nice and smooth for a finish edge on a knife.

I have been seeing posts about polishing the rail which drags along the top round of the mag. It was also suggested to break the edge near the breech face. My question is how to do this and what I should use. I would assume the wet/dry paper should be wrapped on something that is flat so that rail is evenly polished. All I can think of is some sort of thin stick or using the non cutting surface of my triangle file to wrap the papper around. Any tips how to do this?

When I had to bump my slide forward it was beacause my COL was too long and the bullets were hitting the rifling. In addition to that the dirty mags I also noticed werean issue. Have you taken the barrel out of the gun and pressed the rounds into the chamber to check they fall right back out when you turn the barrel upside down?

I am just getting into CZ and been wodnering how the system works. My question is when the hammer is let down all the way does the firing pin block still block the firing pin? I am unsure if the hammer pushes the firing pin forward becuase it is pressing against it and now bypasses the safety block. On a 1911 this would push the FP a bit closer to the primer and if the gun were dropped could possibly bounce the FP and ignite the primer. I doubt it would happen and I have yet to drop a gun but thought I would ask. So in short does the firing pin safety block still block the firing pin when the hammer is fully down?

Has anyone replaced sights on the Rami? I normally drift sights out to right and back in on the right toward the left. When I get it I will be ordering the night sights.

Any issue with the Rami? I think I am set on buying one I just hope it feeds JHP duty ammo like 124grn +P Gold Dot or HST with out issue.

I actually was going to ask this question as well. Shot my sp-01 for the first time this Saturday and mags stopped feeding because of dirt inside them. I made it all 6 stages and noticed as I loaded them up the follower wouldnt apply pressure on the top round and they started falling out if I tipped the mag upside down. I have the 10 round mags and it was hell trying to put them back together. That retaining plate dimple wouldnt align with the base plate holes worth a darn and I had to smack the mag in my hand all diffferent angles waiting to hear the "pop" when that dimple finally jumped into its hole. Do you guys have a trick for this?

That would be huge for ccw. Basically my sp-01 but polymer. And again it seems pointless if I can only put a 10 round stick in it.