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Bart, if it only comes with one mag, keep it and use it as a barney mag. If it comes with more than one, sell the rest. Or, buy it from CZC. They have them in stock. Here is the URL http://czcustom.com/CZ-75-Tactical-Sports-40SandW.aspx BTW, the Bud's Guns unit does not come with three 17 round mags.

Dr J, here is my take. I would use lead truncated cone bullets. Not round nose flat point, real truncated cone bullets. Lead will give you higher velocity with lest powder, and less recoil. It is easy to make major with any of the powders you list. If I were shooting indoors and the rule was no exposed lead, I'd use Xtreme RNFP or the Hollow Point, conical base plated bullets. Your next choice is bullet weight. 185s will give you the sharpest recoil pulse, will clear the barrel faster and give the least muzzle rise. That will get you back on target faster for the double tap. My pistol does not like 185gr lead so I use 200gr. 230gr will give you the softest recoil pulse, climb the highest and be the slowest back on target. BTW, if you decide to go the coated bullet route, I'd not use TiteGroup.

When I ordered my 40 S&W TS from CZC I asked Stuart if it made sense to have a 9mm barrel or complete 9mm upper fitted before he sent it. I forgot his reason why the barrel only was not recommended. He said the complete upper was a viable alternative, but the total cost of buying the upper and having them fit it to the 40 pistol would be within $200-$250 of an entire new pistol. In his opinion, if I really wanted a 9mm it would make more sense to buy a complete new pistol.

Lead bullets work just fine. I used to load full bore 158gr 357 loads using lead and got no leading. If you go with lead buy from a maker that used the red lube. It smokes less. If you don't like the coated bullets (and many don't) try the Xtreme plated bullets. They have regular plate and heavy plate, conical base bullets for fast magnum loads. They are very reasonably priced and the shipping is peanuts. BTW, I used to run Penn Bullets 152gr dual ogive LSWC in my comped 45 ACP really fast. Those bullets were BR12 and i never got any leading in the barrel, although I got a lot in the comp. They were designed specifically for comped guns at 1200fps.

I happened to be looking at the IPSC rules and discovered this in the Production Guns listing. "(CZUSA Custom Shop models (including the SP-01 Shadow Target, CZ 75 Shadow T and CZ 75 SP01 ACCU Shadow), and Frankonia models (including Mamba and Viper), are not approved)" These were the approved pistols. CZ75B Omega, CZ75 P-02, CZ75, CZ75B, CZ75B Stainless, CZ75BD, CZ75BD Police, CZ75 Compact, CZ75D Compact, CZ75 SemiCompact, CZ75 Combat II, CZ85, CZ85B, CZ85 Combat CZ40B, CZ97B, CZ99, CZ100, CZ110, CZ2075 Rami, CZ2075 Rami P CZ75 P01, P07 Duty, P09, CZ75 SP-01, CZ75 SP-01 Tactical, CZ75 SP-01 Shadow, CZ75 SP01 Dual Tone, CZ75 SP-01 Sport (9x21mm version with OFM trigger stop as sold in Italy), CZ75 SP-01 Phantom, CZ75 SP-01 Shadow TR, CZ75 SP-01 Shadow Orange. Also approved are variants with original Ceska Zbrojovka (CZUB) barrels which are longer than standard (e.g. SP-01A, SP-01DK, SP-01DK Shadow), provided the barrel length does not exceed 127mm, and provided all other aspects of these variants fully comply with all other Production Division rules. All dual tone models, Shadow Line variants of approved models, and approved models with OFM coloured frames, are also approved.

I replaced the plastic part because it was bent on arrival and got worse quickly. Plus it was cheesy. The SS rod just plain works and there is now no possibility of the spring kinking or buckling. My winter project is a grip reduction. I plan to file and sand off the cheesy front and rear checkering and replace with grip tape. I'll probably send it down to Stuart to have it Ceracoated.

Even though there is a wealth of data for reloading 200gr jacketed, including some for Bullseye, I'd ask myself- why bother. The bullseye crown shoots semi wad cutters because of the neat, larger hole produced. They shoot 185 and 200 grain lead in the 775 to 820fps range because that has proven to be the most accurate in 1911 pistols (for bullseye). Some also shoot the 185 JHP for the 50 yard line. If you are a games guy you want a lighter, faster bullet so you recover more quickly. If you're a pin or post guy you want 230 gr. If for defense, you'll want lighter and faster or 230gr depending on what you believe about stopping power.

I went with the Tactical Sport in 40 S&W. The CZC basepad extensions allow you to reload 20 rounds, but may require some tweaking of the follower to work. The CZC spring and follower set, and the Gramms both allow 21 reloadable. With the TS, you can run the gun just as you receive it. Fantastic trigger. Very accurate. The only mods I made were replacing the front sight with a FO unit, replacing the plastic recoil spring rod with SS and replacing the factory grips with the very thin CZC units. The thin grips reduce the grip width by about 1/8", a noticeable amount.

I am not a dealer. I do know that after I decided to buy a TS, all I could find were 9mm. I had to wait an appreciable amount of time to get my 40 S&W. I had the opportunity to shoot both the 9mm and 40 before I decided. I decided on the 40 for versatility. Minor loads are softer feeling than in the 9mm and Major is easy to achieve for Limited. Since the gun is not legal for any IDPA division and it is not legal for USPSA Production, I really do not understand why the 9mm version exists. There are literally boatloads of CZs at one of my clubs. Most of them are USPSA Production legal. The two 9mm TS guns were bought because they were obtained used at a good price, and both of the buyers just felt like it. They both already owned the same gun in 40. Except for these two, all the CZ 75 TS guns at the club are 40 S&W.

mikeinctown, a while ago I faced the same dilemma you are. Having leaned from a previous mistake, I did not want to repeat it. My mistake was ordering a custom 9mm gun that I thought would do everything. It did, but it was not a wise choice. Here was my though process when deciding which CZ. If I wanted to be IDPA legal and USPSA Production legal, there were a number of CZ pistols that fit the bill. You are considering many of them. A 9mm is what comes to mind; however, you are at a distinct disadvantage if you want to shoot Limited and for all steel and pin matches that require you to clear the pins and knock over the steel. I decided to go 40 S&W. When I delved more deeply into different sports and shot some matches, I discovered there was worlds of difference between them. USPSA is way more fun and a lot more exciting (to me). Defensive pistol shooting has its place, and I may shoot it again. I decided that if I did, I'd use a 1911. Freed from IDPA requirements, I was able to narrow the scope down. I didn't have to shoot USPA Production, so I didn't have to have a conforming pistol. I prefer single action, so I decided I would shoot USPSA Limited. No one shoots Limited 10 around here, because we are not in a 10 round mag State. So that further narrowed the criteria. It had to be 40 S&W so I could easily and safely make Major PF when needed. It had to have a large mag capacity. 18 was the minimum I wanted, but preferred 20. It had to be single action, have a good trigger and be heavy enough to soak up recoil and get back on target quickly. That light gun for fast transitions stuff doesn't work for me. I gain a millisecond or two on the transition, but lose a lot more waiting for the sights to realign because the recoil flipped the gun high. Instead of building a custom 2011 pistol, I went with the CZ75 TS in 40. I definitely do not regret that choice. The trigger is 2lbs and great right out of the box. It is accurate and soft shooting. Major PF loads feel like Bullseye loads do in my 1911. Soft. I use them in matches that score major and for plates that must be toppled and pins that must be knocked completely off the table. I shoot Minor PF loads at shoots that don't score major, or ringy-dingy steel or pin matches that only require you to topple the pin, not clear it. I'll tell you that shooting 139PF out of that pistol feels like cheating. It is faster than any 9mm I've shot, and even faster than my 1911 with mouse fart Bullseye loads. I'm happy with my choice. I tried the one size fits all approach and didn't like it. Since I am not limited to only one pistol, why not specialize a little. I have a Hammerli and a custom 1911 for Bullseye, and I can replace the optics on the 1911 if I want to shoot IDPA. I have a 22 open gun for steel challenge and 22 League plate and pin matches, and the TS for everything else. Hope this is helpful.

I use e3 powder for my 40 S&W loads. I'm very pleased with the results. I load to 1.126" OAL because I shoot them in my CZ TS. You may have to bump the powder charge a little because you are loading longer. Anyway, here are my pet minor loads. 5.5" barrel, 1.126" OAL, 180gr lead truncated cone bullet: 2.8gr e3, CCI 500 primer: 773fps, 139 PF, SD 6.75 (20 shot string) 3.1gr e3, CCI 500 primer: 844fps, 151 PF, SD 8.88 (10 shot string) I know it isn't on your list, but e3 gives me sub 10 SDs with 175gr LSWC and 180gr LTC bullets loaded from 139PF to past major. I just got a selection of Xtreme HPCB bullets and plan to run them over the chrono shortly. I expect very similar results, except I'll need more powder for the same PF.

Zombi Hunter, I'm relatively new to the TS (about 3000 rounds), but I can tell you it gets better with time. First, it seems your slide is as tight as mine was when I got the TS 40 from CZC. It was really tight and hard to rack. Even shooting full bore 180 ammo, the brass just dribbled out. I had ordered 13lb and 11lb springs with the gun, because I wanted to shoot both major and minor loads. I put the 13lb in an slide action became easier. Racking the slide with the fixed sight hurts because of all the angles and sharp edges. I also think it is too high. I ordered a lower Dawson FO front sight and installed it. I then sanded the top of the rear sight down to match and recut the rear notch. Along the way I rounded the corners and beveled them, then reblued. It is quite comfortable to use as a racker now, especially since the slide loosened a little after the first 700-800 rounds. BTW, I very early went to the SS guide rod and that may have helped.

I had the same problem with the factory followers. As they get older they have a tendency to cock to one side. Mine cock so that the high side is even higher. Once they get high enough, the mag will not drop free when empty. However, it will drop free if there is still a round in it. So it is definitely a follower problem. Changing the spring and follower to the CZC unit with 10-coil spring solves the problem. All my mags have the CZC extended base pad. I'm not sure if that spring will work in the 17 round mags.

Well, as I said earlier, neither .400" or .401" bullets drop through, so I got a lemon. Not the first time from EGW.

Thanks all. It is a problem with the case gauge. I pulled the barrel and dropped in sized, primed cases. They all seated with a thunk of the rim against the shoulder of the chamber. Loaded rounds with different profile bullets did the same and to the same depth. So the bullets are not hitting the rifling. They are hitting the EGW 4-caliber case gauge, so I'll get another. Thanks again to all.

Interesting results kamikaze1a. I did use magic marker because I can't locate my can of Dykem Blue. At first I could see no rub marks on the "good" shells. The bad shells were easy. The "Glocked" brass showed rub marks on one side of the base wall and on the opposing rim wall. As expected. Other "bad" rounds had rub marks either at the base of the seated bullet, or one one side but only where the bullet was seated. Upon examination I discovered the brass had been drawn (either at the factory or in a pistol) so that one side was thinner than the other. There was literally a bulge on one side of the case where the bullet was seated, but none on the other. I have no clue what caused that. Anyway, I decided to ink the brass and the bullet. When I did I discovered an annular ring on the truncated cone just above the full diameter junction and scuffing on the edge of the full diameter section with LSWCs. This is all once fired police range, mixed headstamp brass used for the first time. The chamber checker is the 4-hole EGW unit. Neither a .400" brass plated nor a .401" lead bullet will pass through the reduced diameter section of the hole (equivalent to the "leade", I believe). So either 1.126" (what I was told to load for the CZ 75 TS) is too long for an "official" 40 S&W chamber, or the EGW unit is not manufactured correctly. BTW, the 45 ACP hole works perfectly.

I'm saying that sized and primed, but not loaded brass will drop into the chamber checker flush and drop out when inverted. Once that primed brass has been loaded to 1.126" it will drop into the chamber checker to the rim of the brass and will not drop free when inverted.

I use a chamber checker for all the rounds i will be using in a match. With the unit I have using resized brass and 175 or 180gr bullets seated to 1.126", the "ggod" rounds drop in but the entire rim of the case is above the checker. They feed fine. They chrono fine and I get good SDs. I just assumed it was a defect in the checker. The other day, on a lark, I dropped in some resized and primed cases and everyone of them was flush with the top of the checker. When those same cases are loaded, they do not drop flush. Any ideas as to what is the cause? It seems it has to have something to do with the crimp, too much or too little, or bullet diameter. Sized cases drop in flush and drop out. Loaded cases drop in to the rim, but will not drop out. They have to be pulled out with a fingernail.

In shotshell reloading i can see no difference between Clays and Clay Dot except the color of the debris. In my 5" 1911 I find that CD gives more velocity per charge than Clays. However, the lots I am using for 45 ACP are different than the lots used for 12b, so that may account for the difference. Using a 200gr H&G 68 LSWCBB loaded to 1.240" I use 0.2gr less of CD to equal my 3.8gr Clays bullseye load. I've used up the last speck of my Clays, but I don't think I'll be buying more even when it becomes available. I like the Clay Dot better and, at least when I bought my last 8lbs, it was a lot less expensive.

plan4, the 1.19 OAL you cite is for an H&G 130 profile bullet, not the 68 profile. Think of it as a wad cutter with a little bump on the nose.

My experience with TS mags has been the opposite of Whoops. I ordered an additional mag with the pistol and later ordered four of the CZC extended bases. 20 rounds was enough for me, so I intended to use the stock springs and followers. Even after all the smoothing and deburring recommended by CZC, I still could only get one mag to hold 20, and on two of them the follower would get stuck in the base pad and require a screwdriver to twist the follower so it would unstick. I sent everything down to Stuart. He exchanged springs and followers and basically mixed and matched until he found the right combo. Even so, he had to sand one follower to get it to work. After a month or so I noticed that one of the mags would not drop when empty. I discovered the follower was cocking so that the high side was even higher and at an angle. That caused the mag to stick. As it turned out, it was the mag with the sanded follower. I replaced the factory spring and follower with the recommended CZC 21 round units and the problem disappeared. Even though it will reload 21, I only put 20 in it. It continues to function flawlessly. The only minor quibble I'd have was the new follower made loading the first round manually a little harder. I use all 4 of my mags all the time to even out wear. I have noticed the remaining factory followers are starting to cock as well. When they get bad enough, i'll replace them with CZC guts or possibly the Gramm's units.

Thanks for the 320 info Hogrider. When you chrono, record the temperature. As you chrono throughout the year you can determine how temp sensitive the powder is.

plan4, you have to be very careful when using the Caldwell chrono, and more so than other digital, light operated chronos. With any of them, the best operating scenario is to place the unit in the shade where the sun screens have an unobstructed view of the sky. Direct sunlight on the sensing ports messes up the readings- a little on my Pro Digital and a lot on the Caldwell. Additionally, if direct sunlight falls on only one sensor of the Caldwell, the unit returns wacky numbers or just repeats the last good velocity reading. You are much, much better off using the IR LED screens with the unit in total shade.

I shoot a Sig Tacops 1911 45 ACP and I load TC (Truncated Cone) bullets to 1.200" COL. They are accurate at lower velocities than RN and never fail to feed. The RNFP bullets are very similar to the TC. I prefer the 200gr bullets, but the 230gr TC makes an awesome pin round.

Sorry Hogrider, no experience with N320. I was going to try it until I found out it is just as temperature sensitive as N310. Since Solo 1000 is no where near as temp sensitive and is essentially equivalent to N320, I'll continue to use it. BTW, when you chrono you will find out that the velocities listed in the VV Reloading manual are a figment of some marketing type's overactive imagination.