wyliearms

Do you mean .100" for ejection port? Tenth of an inch is standard practice, but a person could cut more off. I did. I apologize...

Most of the cracking occurs at the midpoint of the ejection port when people over lower them trying to get them to eject. .001 is all you should need. If you remove mass from the top and side of the slide without thinning the metal from the underside you should be able to shoot major no problem. Alot of lightening jobs is to strip material from the undersid of the slide making it thinner and less rigid. Thats where I was was always told that the problems begin. I could go a step further and have been told to never shoot major in a Glock period but I know plenty of people who have. Frame cracking would be more of a concern with me with a lightened slide than the slide itslef breaking anywhere other than the port.

Faith restored. I had a 100 round run today after some mods and the gun run great while holding about a 2 inch group at 25ish feet. I lowered the ejection port to be even with the top of the angle and then sanded and blended it in. Then, I added about 3mm worth of spring from a safety plunger spring to the plastic bearing on the extractor to give it more tension. I also took an extended ejector and bent the tip up to the point it touched the slide giving it a higher point of impact. I experimented and found an Xtreme 124 9mm under 3.4 grain of Titewad will work the comp decent and provide little to no felt recoil for steel. I have not chrono'd it yet but based on data I'm assuming it is about 950fps. I'm using a new ISMI 11lb spring that I cut 5 rings off of. So, now I have a low PF steel recoil spring assembly and a higher rate major setup both that run really well. Gonna run another 100 tomorrow and hopefully get the same result...

Or, just run a 90 degree mount. The vast majority of frustration I am finding is coming from the ejection pattern in relation to the Carver mount. If I take it off completely the gun runs like a dream. I have another Glock with a dovetail mount FF3 and it runs awesome but I cant get used to the dot bouncing around. I've tried a few things I picked up on the internet the last few days and through talking to people about this issue. I am going to give it a final test this weekend and if what I did works, with the reduced power load I want, I will post them up. My issue is that I don't need a Major PF for Steel Challenge. I want a nice low PF / recoil round that extracts well. It may come down to removing the comp completely which is what others have done. If I run 7.3 grains of AA#7 to meet Major it throws them across the range but I don't need that hot of a load.

You have the 90 degree mounts. Now that I know better thats what I should have went with.

I had the same issue with Blue Bullets. Same load as the Xtreme that worked great but 1 of 3 failed to extract. If you are running a comp it's a gas issue and you need to go up to throw the brass. The issue with low recoil rounds with the Cmore mount is that the gas expelling from the comp quickly does not have the same force to move the slide reward to force ejection. The light ejection force combined with the force of the fresh round pushing upward causes the round to eject upward and not outward. If you increase the charge that will go away. I did that and accuracy went to pot. I have to push my sight as far forward as possible to prevent it. Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

Seriously, if you get ready to part ways with it let me know. I am looking for a good deal on one.

How many of you got frustrated trying to run a Glock open gun? I can't be the only one that wants to drive over mine with a truck...

I tried Blues and didn't like them. The Xtremes work great for me and it's hard to switch to another brand due to price. I looked at Eggleston Munitions and Acme and both are only about $3 difference per 500..

I'm going to pin mine this weekend.

Thanks man. Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

Do you have a number Zack?

South Carolina. Can ship anywhere.Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk NOT! Given that it is the serial numbered frame, if you ship, it has to go to a shop that has an FFL, then they can ship it directly back to you. If you have a local shop you can carry it in the door with no worries. I know that. My point was I can ship it to any gunsmith. Being local is not important.Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

South Carolina. Can ship anywhere.Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

Thats what I'm looking for? Any suggestions?

Normally. Didnt work this time...

I'm working on fitting a different slide to my SA Range Officer. The ejector was high so I thought it would be easier to replace it with a standard one then I could tune it when the gun was done. It's not pinned like a normal 1911, it's glued. When I tried to remove it like I've done many before it, it broke. The pins are in the frame. Can anyone recommend someone who can get those outl and install a new one and also drill and tap the frame to accept the Quinn III mount. I figured I might as well have it all done at once while they have it as I don't have a mill. Any help is appreciated....

I dont want the extra step of decapping first. It takes more time. I've also never really been overly concerned in clean primer poskets for pistol. I was hoping the sonic cleaner would save some time not introduce an issue.

I'll go back to dry tumbling like I have been for 15 years. Tried and true....I knew it had to be something related to the ultrasonic cleaner because I've never had this happen before.

How long should they dry then? I would think setting out in the open for that long at room temperature would have been plenty of time. I also blew them out with an air gun once they came out of the solution.

They sat for about 2 weeks.

I've never had this issue before until I started ultrasonic cleaning. All was mixed headstamp...

So I bought a Hornady Hot Tub for Christmas to get into ultrasonic cleaning. I've cleaded guns, parts, etc in it and it works great. I recently decided to use it to try a load of 45 ACP brass. It cleaned it great. Looks really good. Here is the issue. Tonight I started loading some of it to get ready for Saturday. Out of 200 rounds, about 7 knocked the top of the primer and left the circular sleeve in the primer pocket which as you will know, caused prining issues. Has anyone else ran into this? I was using their case polishing formula.

I have a 12 on order...

I have never had to lube a 45 case. I've actually skipped tumbling before and loaded them straight once fired and never had issues like this. Did you ever get this resolved?