chrishoesel

I got both a T7 and a Co-Ax. Both are beautifully made and solid. However, I started using the Co-Ax first, and the T-7 is sitting there unused. I load mainly precision 338LM on the Co-Ax, and occasionally will do some decapping runs on it when I want to tumble small batches of brass. The Co-Ax slot-load die installation is a breeze when changing out dies, and also allows for dies and case to self-center and I find the turret press to be redundant. I lean towards the Forster. You will never want another single stage press after that. Just invest in a few packs of the Hornady lock-rings for all your dies, they are excellent, made of steel, and will hold their position very well.

Yeah, it's best (but more expensive) to just get one for each primer size. Once set and running perfectly, you don't want to mess around with changing primer sizes. Of course it's doable, but sometimes it's easier to just spend the money for convenience's sake. Also having one 1050 for each primer size and separate toolheads for each caliber/operation is the ticket. Changing primer sizes on a 1050 is probably easier than on the RF100 once you're familiar with the machine. The Hornady SureLoc rings are also a nice option for all your dies if you don't want to buy toolheads. (Keep in mind that if you run a trimmer motor and use the rings underneath the toolhead, the surelocs won't work, because they hit the shellplate lock ring.

Hate reloading, but some things become easier with proper equipment. Absolutely HATED reloading with the RCBS Pro2000, before the 1050's, now I hate to love it. Or love to hate it....whatever.

My wife prefers this one. :-) Had to. Just had to.

The one with the biggest ram. Gets 'em every time. Therefore the 1050.

I tried a bunch of different things, even an alcohol bath and acetone. Pain in the ass for sure. Even the hottest water I could get out of the tap wasn't doing it. I tried the KrudKutter in the gallon concentrate and it seems to work to break down the lube prior to dumping it in the wet tumbler. Don't be shy with the dawn either, I squirt the bottle for a full six seconds and even though it creates a lot of foam when you open up the tumbler at the end, it seems to work fine. Use of Lemishine I think is optional, and I might actually stop using it, because even 1/4 tsp of it will turn random batches of brass into a yellow/gold color. It does nothing to reduce waterspots either, so perhaps a formula of car wash/wax, dawn, and hot water is best. I'll be trying this next time I'm home on R&R.

Hey Chris - What are you thinking is "semi clean cases"? I'd love to give this a try. Is there a pre-wash step that might get a bunch of store-bought cases "semi-clean"? I'm thinking this Iosso Brass Cleaner to get bulk range cases clean before using your process http://www.cabelas.com/product/Iosso-Case-Cleaner-Kit/727251.uts I call semi-clean cases ones that are range brass, but tumbled either wet or dry prior to any sizing or processing. Just to get the dirt and gunk off of them..

A Dillon S1050 is good for EVERYONE.

Hmm, I process all my rifle brass (sizing and trimming) using homemade case lube (10:1 of 99% isopropyl alcohol:liquid lanolin) and I go straight from processing to wet tumbling (with wash/wax and Lemishine) and I don't have any issues, my brass comes out perfect. Maybe I should try the carwash/wax? Perhaps it has an emulsifier in it that breaks down the lube? If I can skip the rinse step, it would help out a lot time-wise. I thought the Dawn would help break down the oils in the lube, but apparently it's not enough. I've wanted to try the wash/wax to reduce water spots as well. Which detergent do you use?

Strange thing, I started wet tumbling without removing the lube and all my brass would come out black, with a fine coating of either carbon, residue, or graphite. Felt like fine graphite powder. It would easily wipe off, showing the bright brass underneath, but it was a mess. I used the same recipe every time, (6 second squirt of dawn, 1/4tsp of lemi shine) As soon as I removed the lube via a dip in hot water and Krud Kutter, my brass comes out like new. The dillon lube dries very sticky, and is not water soluble, at least not when the water turns cold after 2 hours in the tumbler. All the gunk that came off the cases got redeposited on the brass as a fine, pain in the ass powder. Not sure why. I don't skip the pre-wash step anymore, for fear of it happening again. That residue permanently stained my light kitchen counters, cupboards, the tumbler drum, towels, refrigerator, everything I touched. (cause it was all over my hands) Wife was not happy at all. ( I tumble in the kitchen) So not sure what everyone else is doing differently with the Dillon lube (or other Lanolin/Alcohol lubes) perhaps I need to add something to the water? I'm using the Frankford Arsenal Rotary tumbler, with the rubber liner. Perhaps the black stuff is hammered rubber being deposited? I couldn't find any posts online about this issue, so I assumed everyone was removing the lube prior to wet tumbling....

Tool head index pins and the toolhead compression spring/spring cup are the most likely culprits. Either put a generous amount of grease into the spring cup/guide or 30w oil and 30w oil on the index pins. Should fix it.

Congrats on an awesome setup! I did the same and "went all in" with a 1050. I put MBF's on both right off the bat. Not a single problem loading....(had issues priming at first but all my fault for not swaging deep enough, and primers getting sucked back in on decapping) Issues solved, and I am glad I went this route, not a single regret. Nothing else will be good enough from now on though, so that's the only problem I see going forward. :-)

I probably have 5 or 6 of them by now. They are well made, sturdy, and match the Dillon colors. Those who have the ability to make their own, my hats off to you. For everyone else, $43 bucks isn't that terrible of a price to pay. Plus they have rubber feet on them so they stay put.

I have the same issue on one of my 1050's. I tried the electric impact wrench, socket with breaker bar, heat, everything. I'm afraid of putting too much torque on the bolt because I can feel the casting and mount twist and flex. Next time I'm home I'll try the penetrating oil again and see if it breaks loose. I think Dillon read their torque wrench wrong. Probably 400 Ft/lbs instead of 40....

Works just fine on single pass, RT1500 and Dillon reduced height toolhead. The GSI will work fine also with the Dillon die. I do a double-strike on the cutting pass to get clean, consistent case mouths. I remove the ratchet on the 1050 and double-pump the handle about an inch into the bottom of the stroke. 4K pieces done this way and I can say all are within 1 thou or less. of variation. I didn't measure every single one, but I did measure about 150 of them at random. Off the press they go into a stainless wash and then get annealed. Canon EOS M-EF-M18-55mm f-3.5-5.6 IS STM-June 14, 2015-12 by Chris Hoesel, on Flickr​ Canon EOS M-EF-M18-55mm f-3.5-5.6 IS STM-June 14, 2015-7 by Chris Hoesel, on Flickr​

I changed my stock spring within 3 days of setting up my new 1050's. Not that the old spring was bad or weak, but I needed a stronger spring to hold up my RT1500 trimmer and also the MBF bullet dies. I also removed the lucifer ratchet, so my head was hanging low. L10 spring is good to go, but squeaks quite a lot more so I put grease on the walls of the new retaining tube and squeaks are gone.

Just my two cents: Even with me being a newbie to Dillon, you can't beat the following setup in my opinion: (granted it costs more upfront, but you can do it in stages) It also seems you can make your operation a bit more efficient by doing the following: Set up one 1050 for large primers Leave the other one set for small primers Buy the quick change toolhead for every caliber you wish to load (includes the toolhead and powder measure) Buy the caliber conversion kit for each caliber (I think shellplates are interchangeable between .45acp and .308, and 9mm and .223 - don't quote me on that) The conversions come with a shell plate, locator pins, and I think the feed tube plug. Buy one large primer conversion kit for one of the 1050's Get the swage rod backup rods AND body dies for each tool head/caliber Make sure you get the appropriate powder funnels for each. Conversions for the MBF for Rifle and pistol calibers are a bit pricey, but they can be done later Move your 9mm processing and loading over to the dedicated small primer machine Do all your .45acp and .308 processing and loading on the dedicated large primer machine. This works best doing large batches of operations, such as processing all that .308 first, then loading it. Then change heads (and possibly shellplates), collator plate and plug and do all your .45 ACP....I'm sure you've thought of this. I suggest this due to you being familiar with the 1050's. This is how I'm doing it and I've only used them for 3 weeks so far. (work overseas) I processed a huge quantity of brass and reloaded as well. I did a lot of 300AAC conversions as well. 5-10 minute swap between each operation for me. I love the 1050. And I debated purchasing them for over 2 years before I made up my mind to just go "all-in" If money is an issue, do it one caliber at a time. You already have 2 1050's, I don't think you need a third machine. Although the 650 looks very nice and would be great due to its simplicity. I believe keeping things consistent and standardized is more important, therefore stick with the 1050's, and use them to their full extent. The 1 year warranty doesn't bother me at all. It's an issue for some and that's cool too. The parts that break are not that expensive given the volume that they're capable of. Unless you're a commercial reloader, I'm sure that Dillon would simply send you some parts if they do indeed break. I am about to start doing .308, and will be sticking to a 1050 conversion for it as well. (conversion kit, processing head with RT1500, and quick-change toolhead) Pricey, but to me it's worth it due to how everything works so well, and it fits with the way I like to reload. (And I hate reloading). However, if you're planning on swapping toolheads and calibers a lot, then the 650 is a better fit in all respects, except for swaging. You'd still have to handle each piece of brass for those that need it.

You're going to love it. The new ones have all the improvements on them too which is cool. Indoor loading is great too. Just kick the wife out to the garage or something and set up the 1050 in her hobby room instead. Guaranteed good times.

Yeah, set motor to low. (rifle plate being small rifle and all else considered) I had the same thing happen, however even if it does happen, the case will try to feed into the shell plate but gets thrown out because obviously...hasn't been an issue with me even if they do come in upside down.

ECHO. I did the exact same thing. They are really well made, and strong too. I use them on my 1050's and also they are strong enough for my 338 LM dies in the Forster Co-Ax. Not cheap, especially when replacing all of the lock rings, but it's one less area to worry about whether your dies have moved or not....You can also pick up their nifty anodized AL wrench as well for easy unscrewing. I would recommend them as a worthy upgrade to your setup.

One Shot is convenient and easy to clean off. Not recommended for rifle, but many people use it with success. I only use one-shot on pistol brass sized in carbide dies that has been wet-tumbled. Range brass goes in unlubed because the carbon acts as a lube. (carbide only) Steel dies need lube always In my opinion, Dillon Lube is probably the best for rifle cases on progressive presses and high-volume. Imperial sizing wax is best for single-stage and precision rifle. All can be removed with corn cob in a tumbler for 10-15 minutes. (loaded or unloaded) Do you wet tumble at all? If you do, you need to perform one step prior to tumbling after sizing with Dillon lube. (It's what I use for the progressive stuff) Dump all your processed cases in a bucket with hot water and some type of degreaser such as Krud Kutter concentrate or similar. Just swish it around and then put it in the tumbler. If you skip this, your brass will come out black as all the cleaned residue will redeposit on the cases. It's messy as hell. This is what I do for 5.56 and 300AAC: 1. Put 200-500 semi clean cases in a plastic tote, and spray Dillon Lube 2 squirts, shake the tote a few times, 2 more squirts, and let sit for 30 minutes for the alcohol to evaporate. (if you size them while wet, you will get dents on the shoulders) 2. I now process a large batch of cases (1k-5k) on 1050 with RT1500. (universal decapper, swager, RT1500 and size die, and mandrel expander all on one head) Same will work with 650, 550, or other progressives, minus the swaging.... 3. Finished brass goes into a cardboard box while I finish the batch. (the cardboard will absorb some of the lube) 4. Dump all processed brass in a hot water/KrudKutter mix bucket and shake it around a bit 5. Dump 1000 or so into a wet tumbler with 10lbs of pins, run it for 2 hours 6. Clean brass is dried for 1 hour in a dehydrator 7. Anneal everything on a Giraud or similar annealer If dry tumbling, skip steps 4,5,6. If you anneal, then you need to have clean brass, so you gotta clean it first. Otherwise just load and tumble the loaded rounds for 15-20 minutes. (don't leave unattended overnight, etc) However, I noticed when I skipped the cleaning prior to loading, that lubed cases would sometimes cause the powder to bridge at the mouth and cause a mess. Sorry to derail this thread....Took me a while to get things right and made a lot of mistakes before settling on something that works for me. YMMV.

Gentlemen, Please don't thank me, as I am just one of those contractors overseas. Thank the troops and all they've risked and lost to protect our country. I was unable to join the service in 2000 due to a hernia and was DQ'd at MEPS. By the time I got everything sorted I was too old. My work here only qualifies as a support role so that the troops have everything they need to make their lives "almost bearable" here in country, but it by no means even comes close to what they sacrifice.

I know, right? They worked flawlessly out of the box, and I didn't need to make any adjustments save for the speed. Close-to lowest speed setting works perfectly for the CCI #41 primers (small) and a tad faster for the CCI LPP. Those things are a godsend. I know there are cheaper solutions, but I like the simplicity in operation. The way the primers move uphill and sort themselves out is mesmerizing. :-)

Thanks! Unfortunately, the covers don't quite fit with the MBF's attached. Normally I wouldn't use the covers but I returned to Afghanistan and they will be unused for at least a year. I've treated all the presses with the RCBS press cleaner and storage kit, so nothing should rust. But it's no big deal taking the MBF's off. Once setup, they can be easily removed and reinstalled in less than a minute.

Global Industrial. I like it because it and the workbench match Dillon Blue color :-) https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/storage/cabinets/heavy-duty/extra-storage-cabinet-36-w-x-19-d-x-60-h-blue