bayoupirate

I shot a G20 in limited for a couple of years. Trigger Group parts, aftermarket barrel, grip tape, magwell, oversized mag release button, fiber optic on front sight, captured recoil spring. NO Slide lock. My attempt at getting the highest grip possible led to an occasional acctivation of the slide lock, so it had to go. Everything is out there. And most of it is drop in and play, making it easy to return the gun to out of the box configuration very easily.

LSU! LSU! GEAUX TIGERS!!!!

Darn I guess if I'm in open, I'll just go ahead and add a Dot Scope to it.

Does a Vibra-Prime put me in Limited?

There are some top notch callers, decoy spread setters and shooters down here in LA, but we've got our share of Skybusters too. Worst case is when it's some ignorant dad passing on the tradition of wasted ammo and nothing to show for it except a lake full of annoyed hunters.

Yep, both correct.

Yes, I went back and read it again. It's says Max weight. I thought is was 2oz. +/-. I was wrong. D4 21.2b is titled as "Milling" but if you read the section to the right, it states "modified". I read that to mean any modification by any means. If you want to start altering the gun to that extent, you should just do it and shoot in L10 or Ltd.

Welcome!

You don't need a big set up to reload. I built a small and stury table. 28 x 28" mounted my square deal b on it and reloaded on that for years. I built it that size, because it could fit into the closet. Took about a year before my wife found it.

Hope no one read my post and thought that I was baised against stock out-of-the-box guns. Everyone playing this game should aready know that any of the GM's can take you gun and beat you with it. It is the person, not the gun, that wins. Just like all other things in life, vehicles, clothes, music, etc..., it's what fits you and feels best for you. That's what you should shoot. but don't hesitate at the opportunity to have a test drive of someone else's gear.

Great Job Dad!!!

use the computer design template. Put what you want to use on the page. PRINT. get a sheet of plastic and a sharp exacto knife. Cut out the shapes. Bingo. You got yourself a stencil for stage design.

WOW! Nice gun!! Those look like the flames on my old Hot Wheels cars. You should think hard about doing some color inlays on the flames.

I shot my Glock for two years. I didn't want to make the switch to a 2011, but so many of my shooting friends kept suggesting it that I finally gave in and tried it. It took about one hour to transition and beat my speed with the glock. I took the 2011 and my glock to the range. I shot a series of steel plate runs to establish a baseline of what I could do with the glock. Fastest possible, fastest dependably and I assess the amount of effort (grip force and recovery) it took to perform these runs. I took a short break and got out the 2011. A friend had built a 6" gun and didn't like it. He was willing to sell it. I tried it and immediately I felt that it was a little nose heavy. I continued to run the gun and in less than an hour, I had topped my glock times and felt that it was taking less effort to run the gun. I did buy that gun, and had the slide machined and lightened to loose the nose heavy condition. Borrow someone's 2011. Don't just shoot 10 rounds. Go to the range for a full session. there is a learning curve. Once you're beyond that, you'll be able to decide for yourself if the upgrade is worth it. Good luck.

+1 on the ONE SHOT. Use it for everything now. GREAT STUFF

Just got the Burris mounted on my gun. I'm happy with the fit and finish. I'll give you an update on performance later.

Welcome!

Just don't put your shooting glasses in the cooler and try to shoot with them right after pulling them out.

I think you need to try a dry run. Your profile says you live in FL. I live in LA. Anything cold, especially metal, that is exposed to the atmosphere (Liquid Air here in Louisiana) will cause the vaporized water (humidity) to condensate on it's surfaces. That's why Air conditioning units have drip pans and window units drip water. But again, I like the way you think.

Does the squib shot record a time? Either way, it's either a zero, by rule, or a zero when you add up all of the penalties.

Sure you should yell "STOP" if you see good reason the shooter must stop for safety reasons. I've been a part of that and no one had any second thoughts that it was the right thing to do. Sounds like some of Y'all shoot with a few Richard Craniums.

You're on the right track. GO 650 and skip the middle step. once you have a 650, you're done.

Uh.. Flex it right. at least take 5 shots at each star (moving target array)

Bingo You should shoot a star like any other target. Good sight picture and squeeze the trigger. Treat each plate as in individual target. Start at the top. If the star stats swinging wildly. Pick a plate and try to make your shot as it is slowing, stopping (for an instant) and begining to head the other way. 7 or 8 well placed shots in 10 seconds is much better than skipping the targets or standing there and emptying 2 mags per star and having to quit because your out of ammo. You can also shoot a couple of targets on one star and if it starts moving really quick, go to paper targets or the other star. then come back when it's slowed down a little.

+1 on Previous ideas: Look around in your club/shooting friends for a Group Buy opportunity. You can ship a lot of power and primers on one Hazardous Fee. Buy at at least in Case sizes. Shooting cast lead is cheaper than jacketed bullets. The trade off is smoke. You'll have to see if that's an issue for you. Welcome to the world of "Rolling your own". You'll love it.