McCringleberry

The targets should be facing the shooter. The reason is that most SC targets intentionally have a 15 degree downward angle and that is supposed to ensure that the fragments go toward the ground. If you are striking the plate perpendicular, in theory, this works. In reality, there is some fragmentation and a slight amount will come back but not usually towards the shooter. When you create acute angles away from the shooter, it causes more fragmentation to angle off to the left and right versus more of it going downward. My source for this is from some of the manufacturers and from running/shooting these matches for over five years. I hope this helps...

The QLS was designed for duty belts, not the ELS system, which was designed for equipment only (the holsters for ELS normally attach directly to the belt) and is targeted mostly at competition. We all just adapt what is best for our gear.

+1! I have had my Safariland 3Gun bag for about 1.5 years and mine is falling apart now too. I will be trying something different after this one is totally shot (pun intended!)

One thing to remember with OAL is that different shapes/types/ogive is going to demand different OALs. The Nato/SAAMI spec is for one specific bullet. Also, if the barrel is a gunsmith fit model, the chambers might be short to be finish reamed.

Definitely silver. Have you seen the Nitro Fin? I switched from that rest to the NF and love it.

I use a combination of FP-10, Frog, and Slide Glide at different areas...

I've used quite a bit of Tula and Brown Bear for paper targets but I try to always use the Federal or Hornady stuff for steel. Although I have never seen any damage from one of those brands on my steel, I just make it a habit not to shoot others steel with it. I read the Luckygunner article last year and it started to make me think about going to other brands but I haven't. Just like Tooth and Nail said, you save enough by that time to buy a new barrel and then some.

It's better to send all the parts at the same time, especially if your slide is not flat topped. Many times you will have to flat top it to get it right for the 90 degree mount since it sits so low but there is a little variance there to D/T the holes but not much. Normally, after one mount has been fitted, the others will fit. I have changed from a Cheely to a Quinn and the height was so close, you really couldn't tell there was a difference. The Cameron's was a little different and didn't fit the thumb rest I like so I never got to use that one. The Predator mount is very similar to the others also. I know several who are good at working on stuff like this, Pedro at Ortiz Custom, Glenn at Lone Star Innovations, Benny at Triangle Shooting...I have had work from all these guys and they do excellent work, great prices, and best of all, the wait times are very minimal. If you are like me, I hate waiting for my guns to come back and these guys have proven to be very quick on the turn-around times and I'm very happy with their work.

I was just going to ask that about having holes versus no holes in the barrel. With my first Open gun, I have two holes (I think 3/16) and it took a lot of powder to make Major. So on the next few builds, I got them without barrel holes and it's easy to make Major but I have noticed more movement. However, there has got to be a way to make the comp work the load and not having to drill into the barrel. What about making the comp so that first section simulates the barrel, put holes there, then open up to the chambers? Might be sort of long but with Ti, you can still make it lightweight. One of the best comps I've used so far has been the Dawson DP2 so something with length may not be a bad thing. Thanks for all the time and work you guys are putting into this!

I hate to sound like a broken record but yeah, looks like a squib...

Just make it two stages, you can group the two stages in PS (you are using PS, right?) And score them as a group. That way you are giving everyone the benefit of two separate scores on two CoFs instead of one stage with two strings. And honestly, thats not why we use strings anyway.

Soft and flat is a matter of getting the right powder/bullet configuration along with tuning it to your comp and doing a lot of practice. My favorite is HS6 but right now you have to get what's available.

No such thing...

I used it with some 147s one time and worked great but when I looked for more loads with a 124 or 115, I couldn't find any. That was years ago so maybe there's more data out now but I doubt there is much. Is there anyway to get HS6, WAC, Silhouette, True Blue, AA7, 3N37/3N38, and I've heard Blue Dot, WSF, or N350 will work too?

Tuned mags do give a slight confidence boost with your equipment but it also gives more capacity usually and a better fit sometimes. Do you need tuned mags? No. Does it help sometimes? Yes. Test your mags out and see how they function, they may work fine. However, I only use tuned mags. Good luck.

I am interested, just to have the information. Though I would have thought that a push-through system wouldn't work with a tapered casing. Here it is: http://magmaengineering.com/products/case-master-jr-rimless-case-sizer/ There is a GM in NC that told me about this and he said he never has a problem with bulged cases in 9mm. I know it's tapered but it pushed from the bottom down which is where you are mostly worried about. It will not do the full case (correctly) obviously but it does the trouble spot.

You can go down as far as you need as long as they function reliably (#1), accurate, feels good (not too sluggish), you are good with it on the timer, etc. The only thing I have ever heard about pistol bullets and velocity was the old rule in Steel Challenge that said it had to be going 750 fps to break up safely on impact.

Yeah, thanks Ken for all the hard work you and your guys put into this. I am sure you don't here that enough. Looking forward to the updates!

The EGW UDie is a great die but some like it, some don't. I prefer it and use it a lot. The only other alternatives are the case-pro to roll them or there is a push through setup for the 9mm case. I can't remember the name but I can find it again if you are interested. It's in the $300-400 range I believe.

Yes, they will come loose. Locktite helps a lot but the best way to go is to get the Larue that is specifically made for the Prismatic.