Feralshooter

Yeah, front sight dovetails are the same. Thanks for your help... I appreciate it! I have a CZ 75 SP-01 now and plan to make it as close to my CZ 75 SP-01 Shadow from AA as possible. My first step is to change the night sights over to the competition rear and Dawson FO front sight. Not sure what the next project will be after the sights... Probably a competition hammer and springs... or maybe just the main, recoil, and firing pin springs... and an extended firing pin... I'm not sure I'm up to speed enough on the sear and hammer geometry to swap in a competition hammer yet... No problem, the comp hammer isn't a tough upgrade. It's a drop in part, but you will probably have to refit the safety for the new hammer. Or use a CGW adjustable sear. The toughest part is getting the old hammer pins out. If you havnt already upgraded to a SRT disco, you could buy the comp hammer and disco, as well as a new hammer strut (cheap) and 2 new no.9 pins and build a drop in hammer assembly. You may find this works ok with your original sear but the CGW one will make fitting a cinch.

That is because it doesn't really matter what ammo or projectile you use, as long as you don't change it. By the time you are fiddling with fixed sight heights you have usually settled on a load or ammo type and will generally stick with that or ensure any other loads you use have the same POI. Changing loads with fixed sights is an exercise in frustration. Find a load and stick to it. Hope this helps.

I'm just impressed you found a positive aspect to having a cat ?.

A new sear may fix the problem, if not then a new left side safety may be required. This usually happens when a comp hammer is installed incorrectly and too much material is taken off the safety leg of the sear, or material removed from the safety pad that rolls under the sear leg. Hope this helps.

I also like POI to be just above the front sight post, to the point that a plate at 20m is sitting entirely above the post. Don't forget that you can get an adjustable rear (or a higher fixed rear) and achieve the same effect.

I think I remember the post you referred to but it won't be relevant to a compact due to the different sight radius. If you crunch some numbers it should be easy enough. For example if the sight radius is 15cm, then at 15m (sight radius times 100) the POI would be 100 times greater than any change in sight height. So a 1mm lower sight would raise POI by 10cm at 15m in this example. It seems like you need to raise POI by about 75mm at half this range, so would need 150mm at 15m. That would equate to a 1.5mm lower front sight than you have. Bear in mind that these numbers are based on a 150mm sight radius, which is a number I pulled out of a hat so don't use these figures, but if you use the basic formula with the correct dimensions you should get pretty close. I would test again at 100 times the actual radius measurement and figure out how much higher I wanted the POI to be, and work from there. Hope this helps (and makes sense!)

It is my understanding that any "tuned" guns would be illegal for IPSC production division. That pretty much leaves standard the standard Shadow at the top of the list. The one exception would be the "Orange" aka "2012" model. It is officially known as the orange now as 2012 sounds like it is outdated. They are the same thing either way. This model is also available as the Shadow Mate Canadian/Australian edition. I just bought the Aussie Shadow Mate and can say for sure that the slide to frame fit is far superior to a standard shadow. The trigger is bog stock though. There are a few little upgrades like sights, comp hammer, alu grips and base pads, and spare springs as well as a pretty sweet case that are included with the "Mate". They also have a different finish that appears to be similar to ceracote. I paid $1345 for my mate and $1250 for my original Shadow. The extra cost is more worthwhile when you account for the extra bits. If you can find either an Aussie (100 made only), or Canadian for a reasonable price I'd say go for it. Otherwise an orange would be your best bet IMO. Having said that there is nothing wrong with a standard Shadow that a couple of springs and some stones won't fix.

Shorter button makes it harder to push too far and hang up the mag with the mag release.

Nimitz, buying a glock is a bit harsh don't you think? ? Justaute, that's the one. 2nd best forum on the net. The home gunsmith section is gold. Some of the best people there are also here though. EERW and shmecky immediately come to mind.

I wouldn't touch it with a dremel. I have seen nice results with a buffing wheel on a bench grinder.

"Obama" and "25" are the answers it wants. Don't hold your breath though, I've been waiting 8 weeks for my registration to be approved so far.

That's great news! As a bonus you now have a stone set that will come in handy for polishing other parts (like the trigger bar, hammer flats etc.) and the satisfaction of doing it yourself. I found working on the disco really developed my understanding of how the 75 works. Happy shooting.

After re-reading the OP it occurred to me that Bunsen probably hit the nail on the head. If the factory mags are not hanging up but the AM ones are, the gun is probably not the problem. Do you have a vernier caliper you can measure the mags with? If you can reproduce the problem with the slide off you can probably get a pretty good idea where the mags are dragging. Better to adjust the mags than the gun IMO. A few taps with a soft hammer in the right places might do the trick.

There is no need to remove the spring from the gun to bend it if you go that way. The screw that retains it is staked and a bastard to get out. You'll want to re-stake or (blue) loctite it when you reinstall it if you do take it out. I adjusted mine with needle nose pliers mid-match and had no problem adjusting its resistance against the mag button. It didn't help in my case.

I had the same problem when my shadow was new. In my case I thought it was being used to a glock mag release, and either not pushing hard/long enough for the mags to drop, or pushing too hard and hanging the mags with the button side of the release. I swapped to VZ grips (as I prefer the feel) and the problem disappeared. I'm still not sure if (1) I modified my technique to suit the new gun subconsciously, (2) the mag release spring softened up or whatever, or (3) the CZ rubber grips projected far enough into the magwell to cause the problem. I suspect the latter.

Sorry you'll be without it for a while, but in the long run I think you made the right choice.

Adjusting the trunk or leg of the disco should only be necessary if the trigger is not resetting under the above circumstance. If that is the case, then EERW's pic shows perfectly where to carefully and progressively remove material from the trunk. This will allow the trigger bar to move forward more, allowing the trigger to reset. This will have no effect on DA. The DA stroke needs to release the hammer just before the sear can engage the hammer hooks. You can see this by watching the sear/hammer while pulling the trigger through the DA stroke. Once again EERW's pic shows where to remove material to address this separate issue.

Turning OT screw clockwise if facing the front of the trigger will shorten reset. You need to use some nail polish or low strength loctite to stop it moving around after finding the perfect spot for it. Ensure the sear will clear the hammer hooks by holding the trigger all the way back and rocking the trigger back and forth. If you can feel ANY contact or dragging when doing this you need to back the screw out more or you will round off the sear edge in time. IMO the OT screw causes more problems than its worth. Mine is in a neutral position and may as well not be there. ETA: lol. Kneelingatlas types faster than me. Shoots faster too ;-)

As beerbaron said, it sounds like the DA needs to be advanced by removing material from the underside of the wings on the disco ( the flats on the wings that would be facing you with the disco leg pointing up if that makes sense). Of greater concern is the sear dragging the hammer hooks with the trigger held back. Did you do any polishing of the sear or trigger bar when installing the disco? If the overtravel screw is not interfering with the trigger's rearward movement, it would seem that the SA has been retarded. The disco should not have changed that at all. If you drop the hammer and continue to hold the trigger all the way back, then cycle the slide, then release the trigger, does it reset properly? The SRT disco can prevent the trigger from resetting in some cases but is easily fixed.

I don't know US consumer law but over here an out of box faulty item can be returned for refund or replacement. You should not have to wait 4-6 weeks for rectification of a manufacturing error IMO. I doesn't seem difficult to fix, but you shouldn't have to go to the trouble nor spend your own $ to fix it under the circumstances. Of course if it is claimed that you stripped the threads yourself it would be difficult to prove otherwise. Either way I hope this gets sorted out quickly and easily for you.

Firstly, I would take it back to where you bought it or return it to CZ for repair or replacement. However you asked for options other than that, so here you go; http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=29483.msg160626#msg160626

Yep, I sliced my thumb up real good when I first got mine. A bit of 400 grit wet and dry sorted them out.

Actually, after taking another look this seems more likely. It would explain why beerbaron's older gun does it as the slide stop and possibly the slide notch may have rounded slightly with use. My gun being much newer has squared corners and so doesn't auto close.

It seems to be the same as the Canadian Edition, with the obvious differences in the designs and colours of the grips and base pads. The biggest difference is how tight they are. The slide to frame fit is at a whole new level. I believe these are "orange model" guns to begin with. The finish is definatly different too, as in much nicer. It could be a ceracote type of product as the stampings on the slide and frame are much cleaner looking with no paint puddling. Overall I am in disbelief at how many improvements have been made over a stock Shadow for so little extra $$.

You should be able to engage the safety at half cock. IMO This would also be a good carry condition as you have the safety and the longer, heavier pull as an extra level of safety. What model do you have?