Fitzghan

Ordered mine from shooters connection on monday….they arrived on wednesday. Fiber is changeable and comes with red and green fiber. It won’t fall out unless you break it in half somehow or cut it. Pardon me of I’m insulting your intelligence but by your question I assume you have not installed a FO front sight before? To do so take the tube and insert it through the holes fully. Next, starting with the side facing the rear sight ( the part you look at) hit it with a lighter and as soon as it begins melting pull it sharply to the rear. It will stop. Next using a pair of nail clippers cut off the remaining FO on the other side leaving approximately 1/16th of an inch sticking out. Take a lighter to that and let it melt into the sight. The FO will now be snug and not move at all. Nail clippers make a very clean cut on the FO and are easiest I find. Hope that helps.

So I returned home picked up the G35 and took the plunge. I ended up using a combination of dremel and various grits of sand paper (220, 400, 600, 1200) wrapped around a wooden dowel and a sharpie marker. I used the dremel on 5k RPM (lowest setting) initially, and found it worked well at about 10k with the sanding wheel I was using. I particularly liked using the sharpie marker and found it to be the optimum size to do precision work. I could not be happier with the results. Below are some pictures of the process. Here is the frame sanded down in preparation for stippling. Slight grip reduction and reduction of finger grooves Here is the double undercut Here is the frame with the stippling complete and ZEV magwell attached Finished product TTI Sights GlockTriggers Edge trigger ZEV Extended Tungsten GuideRod ZEV magwell

AHAA!!!! GREAT SUCCESS!!!!

TEST

Roger_Out, welcome back brother. I just got home from deployment myself and was looking at the Z6i and the Vortex. Based on what I read on this forum and the much cheaper price tag I went wight the Vortex and managed to purchase one from another member here. It is Aimpoint bright and absolutely awesome. I could not be happier with the illumination, clarity and the very forgiving eye box. If you are military as it appears you can get a mil discount from SWFA if you give them a call. Best price I was able to find other than lucking out here in the classifieds.

I am still completely baffled by this. I cannot upload a picture to save my life. I have some things I’d like to contribute to the forum but at this point I am wasting my life away trying to make this happen. Anybody have a dummy proof step by step for attaching photos off a MAC with out having to host them on a web server?

I don’t think you will be disappointed. Taking mine to the range tomorrow and have been dry practicing with them all week. The rear notch still allows for plenty of daylight around either side of the front sight. The dot seems to be slightly larger than the Warrens and is noticeably brighter. I am able to pick up the front sight just as fast and probably a little faster than with my Warrens or Dawsons. The real money maker for me is the top of the dot sitting flush with the top of the front sight. I found myself often wanting to place the top of the dot flush with the rear sight under speed with Warrens and this set up takes advantage of what I naturally do. My other set arrived today and now my production gun is sporting them as well!

Just received a set of these for my limited G35 I built and love them. I immediately ordered another set to put on my production gun. I really like how high the dot is on the front sight.

Thanks Ultimo....that is sort of what I was thinking. It seems the dowel may take longer but I suspect it would be harder to foul up and produce a more uniform result.

I plan to do this very soon as well. I'm comfortable sanding down the grip and stipling but this will be my first go at the double undercut. My carry glock has a trigger guard that was undercut by Boresight solutions that I plan to use as a rough guide. Do you guys mark the trigger gaurd before hand to ensure you don't go to far and to give you a rough outline or do you just do it by feel a little at a time? I also read some people using a wooden dowel with sand paper vice the dremel. Anybody use this technique?

Alot of great tips. Might I recommend a version of the ball and dummy drill if you have a training partner? Basically face down range and have your partner load your firearm (muzzle safely down range obviously) but with his back to you so you cannot see. Have him place the gun in your holster and then draw and shoot 2 on the timer. Your partner/RO should alternate between loading live rounds and none at all at random intervals. This will show you for certain whether or not your are flinching. If you think the firearm is loaded you draw and fire with a click and your sights do not move and the muzzle does not dip then you are good to go. If your muzzle dips drastically and/or your sights move erratically then you get that "AHAAA" moment. Rinse repeat until you are no longer flinching. I used this drill with great effect for 25yd group shooting slow fire but imagine it would work in this case as well. Another great tip is for every time you draw and flinch on a dry run...you draw and practice 5 perfect dryfire repititions. Then begin the cycle over again. Each flinch cost you 5 perfect dry fire presses and now you are actively learning and correcting the problem. Hope that will help.

Run a bunch of ammo through it...test your carry load thoroughly and call it good. I like to run 1000 rds through a gun before I will carry it but maybe that is just me being overly cautious.

Blue label should come with 3 magazines and be quite a bit less expensive. What is the price difference vs what Glock would charge you? Also 270 days is a loooooooong time. I imagine if you were patient you could find one for sale on this or other forums before 270 days had passed and likely with added accesories already included. I also prefer the Gen 3 for parts availability/compatibility.

MustangGreg....Definately number your magazines!! This will save you someday I promise. If a mag does go bad you can quickly ID and swap it out. I use a simple Silver Paint Marker and put my initials and number. I touch it up when needed....and the silver and black looks freakin BAD A$$! This will also ID your mag should you ever lose one amongst the 7 go-zillion other G34/17 shooters out there. As you stated I fully unload and reload between stages so I don't end up with a 9 round mag....nothing throws you game off like going to slide lock when you didn't plan on it! I guess in theory you could use the little window in the back of the mag but I like to be 100% sure. Is that OCD of me? Maybe but I learned the hard way....pretty sure by going to slide lock on the last piece of steel one time! Honestly my mag springs probably would go longer than a year but to me the extra insurance is worth it. I KNOW they last a year, beyond that I'm guessing.

IRT how long the springs will last really depends on how you use them. I shoot 1 to 2 matches every weekend and get a few practice sessions in every month. I shoot production and SSP in IDPA and I have 15 magazines that I rotate. With all the loading and unloading between stages that is a lot of cycling on the springs. If you don't regularly load and unload the mags the spring should last longer. That being said I replace my springs annually. I just do it before the Sectional Match every year so I don't forget. Never had a problem doing it that way. You definately don't need entirely new magazines unless they are damaged somehow. I've never had to buy a new follow or magazine hull. Glock mags last forever and because they are polymer won't chip or scratch and start rusting like metal magazines ofter do. Ask me how I know.

Awesome....looking forward to the pictures and your thoughts.

Although I know a lot of people who use the Blade tech DOH I would not recommend it. I had one for all of about 2 days and got rid of it. The way the DOH made the gun sit on my hip it was angled dramatically outward and not straight up and down. The result was a ton of drag on the pistol and the holster twisting around all sorts of funky ways. I had to alter the way I drew the pistol in order to get it out smoothly. My wife on the other hand uses the Blade Teck DOH with no issues. Because she has woman hips the gun rest straight up and down. I would highly recommend the Ghost Stinger. You can pick one up at shooters connection.....http://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Ghost-Stinger-Glock-P2377.aspx. Production legal, fully adustable, offset nicely from the belt and sits straight up and down. The only issue I had when I first got it was my ring finger dragging on the portion of the holster covering the trigger guard. It is very thick where the trigger gaurd meets the grip. A little material removed with ol' Mr. Dremel and I could not be happier with it.

I don't have mine in front of me to mess with but FWIW I started using the 12lb Glockworx spring last year. I've been through 3 of them and never had an issue.

I run a steel guiderod with the ZEV 12lb spring. Shoots very flat and never had any issues. The blue coating comes off as advertised and reminds me to change the spring which I like because I'm horrible at keeping track of round counts. When you disassemble to clean you'll have little blue flakes in the frame but no big deal. Trigger wise I've tried varying combinations of springs, connectors and strikers and find that they all tweak the feel ever so slightly. My current hodgepodge set up is a glocktriggers VOGEL trigger with the 4lb striker spring. I use a wolf lightened striker and have traded out the factory polished connector for the ZEV V4 connector. Never had a light strike but it is worth mentioning I use Federal primers. This is all on a Gen 3 G34 setup for production.

Wow......I just asked about these in another thread...guess not many people have experience with them. Anybody?

Does anybody have any experience with the Taran Tactical sights? I typically run a dawson front (.105 thickness) with a sevigny competition rear. I like the idea of placing the dot at the very top of the sight but was wondering if anybody knows more about them. I am curious about the thickness of the front sight as well as the width of the rear notch. I can't seem to find anything other than the one picture and the description on the website. These will be going on my new G35 Limited gun build. Thanks.

So as a long time cross dominant shooter I have gone through multiple phases. Shooting with my dominant (left eye closed) during the actual firing cycle and opening it as soon as firing was complete, turning my head to the right and looking down the sights with my left eye and finally moving the gun over in front of my left eye. By the time I figured out i needed to be shooting a pistol with two eyes open it was WAY to late in the game to try and re-learn left handed shooting. I was very excited this last year to be shooting on the squad next to Dave Sevigny at the Georgia state match as I knew he was a cross dominant shooter and was eager to seek his advice. He simply said he puts the gun in front of his left eye and it always just felt natural. He said he never really thought about it much and only after reviewing tapes did he realize he turned his head ever so slightly. After that I just started practicing using my left eye with "what felt natural" with out trying to inject to much conscious thought. What did I end up doing? .....moving the gun toward my left eye and turning my head ever so slightly right and even more slightly down...go figure.

Thanks for the reply. That was the kind of feedback I was looking for. Going to add these in.to the regime. Meshugunner just so happens tomorrow is deadlift day. I use the over under grip on very heavy lifts. I like the idea of not wrapping the thumb and will try that on warm up sets and then see how high I can go before switching back to the over under.....after all the primary purpose of the deadlift isn't grip strength. I like the towel idea to....simple. Try it tomorrow as well. Couldn't resist and did the finger push up and hang. Is there something more to the hang test? Time, wrap the thumb or dont? Overhand or under? Just curious. Also could you describe the plate curl and pinch grip lift a bit more? I won't be home for another month so would like to try some new grip exercises prior to using the COC's when I get back. Thanks

Almost forgot.....when traveling if I'm carrying other pistols I just put it in the same case that I'm declaring. If going some place where I cannot bring a real gun I simply explain what it is and ask them if they would like me to declare it. I keep it in the SIRT hardcase that is nicely labeled as a training pistol and unlocked. Never have I been asked to declare it and never have I had a problem.

For what it is worth I have a SIRT pistol and have used it all over the world. Normally when I dry practice I use a combination of my real pistol along with the SIRT. I like to use my regular pistol for practicing basic draws and reloads and various drills followed by running through some of the more complex drills on the timer with the SIRT. It doesn't have the exact feel of my competition glock but it is close enough. Where it has really benefited me is during times of travel and being away from home for extended periods of time. I'm typing this from Afghanistan and my SIRT pistol is under the desk. It keeps my skills up when I can't compete or dry practice with my normal pistol. I am also a huge fan of the wieghted magazines they come with. You can weight them to match your particular mags and the fit in your real Glock. This saves me from beating up my competition mags when conducting a lot of reloads. Lastly I installed the same sights on my SIRT that I use on my Glock. Warren Tactical Rear and Dawson FO front. The Front sight I installed as normal with some locktite but the rear you will need something adhesive. The dovetail is looser than a factory glock. I used Gorrilla Glue and never had a problem. It is great getting the exact same sight picture that I get with my competition gun.