wheelie

A little more on the bullet slipping, crimping discussion. Sometimes more crimp will do the job but more often what you need is tighter grip on the bullet. There are several ways to get this. First way is to select the brass for thickness. Some brands will be thicker than others. the thick cases will hold the bullets better. Second, use a smaller expander. Even .0005" smaller will make a difference. Third, measure your bullets with a real micrometer. A little fatter bullet may cure the problem. But you won't know until you measure.

It does not matter. You can shoot the same load in a 5 or 6 inch barrel. And each gun is different. To find out how fast your particular gun is with a given load, you'll have to chronograph the loads in your gun.

Thanks, I'm using their Carnuba Red now and it does a good job for sure. And thanks to all others who answered.

What I mean is not powder coated bullets, but a cast lead bullet with grooves filled with lube. I cast my own and lube in a lube/sizer. The .38 Short Colt in a .357 chamber is going to result in a long oversize "throat", usually a recipe for leading. Just wondering what actual experience shows.

Is anyone shooting cast lead bullets with grease lube in a 627 using Short Colt brass? If you are how is it working? Any leading problems in the chamber or throats?

First, shoot it a bit with the ammo you intend to use in it. If it will function perfectly for a couple hundred rounds before cleaning, you might be good to go. Then start modifying it. Chamfering the chamber mouths is a good one already mentioned. If the chambers seem tight and you have trouble loading when its dirty, you might need to ream the chambers. I suggest you measure the chambers carefully before cutting. Probably want to lighten and smooth the action too. That's about all you need to get a good start.

Ejector Assembly Actuator Discombobulation? EAAD also known as: OS Operator Headspace Seriously, Turn the muzzle up and smack the ejector rod sharply. I bet when practiced with precision it works every time.

I think its just going to be a tedious pain. Little balls of 0000 steel wool that has been de-greased and held by forceps or artery clamps will help. I'd not even consider trying to get a perfect finish on the inside parts. Once it darkens some I'd stop. Or might not even worry about it and just blue the external areas that show.

I'd shoot it.

It'd be much like Production: "maximum 10 rounds loaded in any magazine" So even though your box-stock Master Blaster XTQ holds 15 or 17 or 19, you can only load 10 to compete in Production division. Its an artificial restriction to level the playing field so everyone who shoots has an equal chance at least as far as the number of rounds. But for revolvers, its only for the Classifiers. The 8 shooter revolvers still get to load 8 for the other stages. Or only fire 6. Either way. Classifiers -- revolvers load 6. Then nothing that is happening now has to change. Every other person who plays this game can continue doing so without interruption. We don't have to discard any Classfiers. Its easy.

I don't think major/minor will have much effect on Classifier scores in a way that matters. If you're shooing a lot of Cs, you're gonna also be shooting a lot of Ms and Penalties. The score on target is always gonna be pretty much all the points available or very close to it for anyone who is shooting at or near the top. Any difference in the major/minor scoring will be made up on lesser recoil of minor and resulting lower time. The difference in round capacity of the various guns has much more effect on scores than anything else. Mandatory reloads after 6 for revolvers levels the field. Otherwise we're just throwing the 6 shot guys under the bus on Classifiers, and boosting shooters who can't shoot as well but bought a gun that holds more bullets. There's a round capacity limit in Production (generally less than the capacity available in the gun) for a reason. Making this into a game where some of the people who play it now are disadvantaged or forced to buy new guns and set up for new calibers to keep in the game is pretty harsh. Killing off the currently prevalent equipment in Revolver is a very bad idea. If you want more people to participate in the sport you have to let them through the door. Can't shut 'em out. Six and reload lets everyone play fair. IMO.

So, to summarize, you'd rather not have to move? Because it takes no skill to move efficiently between arrays... :/ I also like chocolate ice cream. Is that OK?

I generally reload after 6. Can't go any farther - 'cause I'm outta bullets! But sometimes sooner, if there's a reason.

And while we're on Classifiers, would we not agree that they have little to no relation to how the current game is played? I much prefer the shooting skill emphasis of classifiers, but they are estranged from the modern reality of USPSA stages and matches. My personal choice would be to bring the game back to Classifier style, but I may be the only person in the country who thinks that way.

The way to effect the fewest number of shooters is to call for all revolver shooters to load with 6 to start and then 6 rounds only between reloads on the classifiers. Keeps the Revolver playing field level and has zero effect on anyone else.

I'd chop it off so fast it leave your head spinning... Other than barrel length this looks perfect for the new revolver rules.

Heck yeah, you're done!

You need to settle in the grip inserts and gun in the rest by firing a few cylinder fulls. While you are doing this you can adjust the drag on the "clutch" so that the gun ends up pointed about 45 degrees up (maybe a little more). If the clutch feels at all sticky, take it apart and clean it thoroughly. After re-checking everything for tightness, start shooting groups. This includes the insert clamp nuts and the clamps or bolts that hold down the rest platform. 1. Use the little trigger tripper mechanism supplied with the rest each time, don't use your finger on the trigger. 2. Use only the handle on the rest to reset the gun - every time. Do not touch the gun except as needed to reload, and do that gently as possible. 3. Every time, move the gun (using the handle on the rest) all the way back to muzzle vertical and then back down to the stop in one smooth motion. That ought to solve any rest operation problems.

There is apparently a lot of variation in the firing pin bushing fit. My 625 was .006 proud and I felt a ratchet effect when shooting. I then cut and stoned the bushing to flush. That problem was solved. I've had other issues but finally seem to have that gun sorted out. I'd want mine flush or maybe could live with .001 protrusion - no more. Recessed is a big problem IMO. I'm sort of impressed with the "firing pin in the frame" S&W's and at the same time sorta turned off by them. I've never had to work so much on a revolver like this one. Tight chambers (smaller than SAAMI standard) that would barely allow factory jacketed loads to chamber, total lack of end play so the cylinder would bind when hot or the least bit dirty.

Warren,I think my concern is with it developing into a problem. When checking with a clip full of fired brass, my .015" gap is reduced to .008" because of the primers. Seems like due to tolerance stacking, I am losing a bit of slop in how flat the clips have to be and also means I won't be able to use .042" clips. The ones on the left are fired cases, on the right unfired brass. Hard to get a picture, but here is an attempt: Is the firing pin bushing recessed below the recoil shield surface? It looks that way in the photos. If so, that is the problem.

Make a rod that fits the bore and long enough to extend back into the cylinder and firing pin hole. Put a little tit on the end to locate into the firing pin hole. If it slides right in and goes into the firing pin hole without any binding, its all lined up. If you have a revolver with .3582 throats, just shoot .358 bullets and be happy. They ought to work fine in the .357 groove diameter barrels. Or .3585 might be even better. But if you're buying, you may not be able to find those. Another good way to measure the slugs is to use a ring gage. You can make the gage(s) on a lathe. Or you can use the 6 or 8 that come in your cylinder.

Regular springs and maybe more taper crimp should cure this. In most matters, the more you deviate from the way the 1911 was designed to be, the more problems you will have.

Check more than one and I think you will find they are not all tapered like that. Sometimes there is a restriction where the barrel is connected to the frame (from tightening the barrel to get it to turn up) then it loosens up once you get past the constriction. But each gun will likely be different. In any event, you want the bullet (when it gets there from firing) to be at least groove diameter or a smidge bigger. Slugging the barrel and then trying that slug in the cylinder throat might be illuminating. The happy spot is where the bullet enters the throat snugly and the grooves snugly - a bullet a bit larger than either hole through which it passes. If the throats are smaller than the groove diameter you got a problem, 'cause you'll have a bullet entering the barrel that is too small - its been sized down in the cylinder throat.

I looked at those and wrote Sevigny with a question. Never heard back. I'm very happy with the Wilson I bought. Its nicer than the old Bomar.

Not if he can push them thru with just his fingers. You're right, unless the groove diameter of his barrel is larger than one might assume. And then there's the assumed diameter of the jacketed bullets (particularly) he's shooting. If they're .451 they'll slide right through a .4512 throat. Anything bigger will, when pushed through, come out .4512. With a .4525 groove he's got a misfit. (just throwing out a number) And until everything gets measured, we're just guessing on the internet.