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10MMDave I believe your correct all 625 are round butt. Festus great that makes 8, round butt N frame.

Wheeler I imagine it is a new or nearly new 625 with a round butt correct. That makes 6

up to 5

All stages will be par time, based on the slowest shooters time.

Ok we are up to 4 grips so far. I doubt I'll do a second order so this is kinda a one chance sale.

10MM Dave and Nemo let me know what you want and I'll settle all the details and get back to ya.

my new 625-8 has same length firing pin as the C&S. However the C&S has a longer travel notch which lets it extend/travel further out. So you could cut the orginal.

Curly maple I believe, but I've seen formica with that pattern. Yep, dropping the profile cut is the plan I'm in one for N frame round butt, and K frame square butt. Lets start collecting the want list. Then I'll finalize the price and we'll PM each other on the details. I'm looking to make any money on this, just get what I need/want.

Ok so far we've got 10mmDave and Nemo. Anybody else? I want to get this order in ASAP. A I want to start widdling on mine. I find it relaxing to sit carve, who knows they may even look good when I'm done.

Ok here is the pics. As noted they can delete the profile cut which allows even larger grips. The profile cut is the white line I put on pic. Let me know what you think? Remember this would include the dowels and hardware, hanger, screw, bushing.

Got a little wander going on. This are semi finished grips. Come in two halves, with dowels, and hardware. inside is cut, outside profile is cut no shaping done, no finish work. Do your own widdling! Can't control frame cuts or anything else. This is just normal grips that are pulled off the line before they are finished. So we are going to get the largest, longest grip available. Probably the big butt with no finger grooves. They will NOT have the glued on finger/butt caps. Pictures are on the way!!!!! S Stay tuned

Ok Here's what the guy told me about how they make them. They get a block wood about 11" long, 5" wide and 2" deep. Then it goes into the first cutter, which cuts the inside profile, the outside profile, and dowel holes for location of the two halves. Supposedly there are six dowels. Then the two halves are glued, and then the outside profiles are cut. So we could find the biggest profile, like big butt with no finger grooves. Plus the attachment bracket, screw and bushing. Price would be in $40 range for the Goncalo wood. So frame styles would probably be K/L square & round and N frame square and round. Anybody want any Colts????? Lets start a little list of what frames and styles. Other woods would drive the price up. Pau Ferro would probably cost $10 more. The more we get the cheaper they will be.

Maybe we could convince somebody like Hogue to sell a do it yourself grip. Inside finished but rest is left oversized so you can whittle away at it yourself. Years ago I saw grip a guy made himself, and uses some kind of a scalopping knife that made the finish stock look like fish scales. Was nice because the would let you slip in one direction then catch in the other direction. I talked with Hogue and they said the will sell unfinished grips. Price would be in $40.00 range if I could order say 12. Anybody interested?

Getting to ready to order, need to know what frames you want. See last post. I never thought of myself having large hands, just normal. However the miculek, hogue grips are all to small in area where your third [bird] finger grips under the trigger guard. I end up holding the gun with ring finger and pinky. So I've filled them with epoxy and shaped them but it is so ugly, plus the lower pinky section is good on miculek but terrible on Hogue. Is there anyplace I can get a grip cut like miculek and hogue, cut and glued, but with just lots of wood on outside so I can just have at with my rasps. what i've found if the grip is right the front sights don't wobble on hammer drop.

my 11/87 will fire any 1oz load. Will choke on the 7/80z loads, runs the reduced recoil remington slugs fine also. Only thing I have to do is a little work on the interceptor with the eclips from brownells and little polishing.

Anybody seen this problem yet, when shooting 40 wolf, get a stuck case that you have to remove with a range rod. The chamber is huge, way bigger than a 40 glock. in fact a fire 40 glock round dropped into the S&W!

Don't worry those cows won't be making into anybody food chain. Although it would be interesting to test the meat to see if it made any difference. He just dumped it over fence and found that cows like the husks.

What I do with that one is, say the knees must be under the table and dictate where the hands must be. That way they can assume any squatting position they like. I had one stage sitting on the toilet, with a supplied pair of boxer shorts around your feet. Strong hand with toilet paper in it. No movement from toilet was required, gun was on a table loaded.

I have friend who peanut husks, gets all he want for free uses them once and them dumps them for cows to eat. Brass is very shiny. He gets a pickup load at a time.

Had Bob Do mine. It has been great, it loosened up after thousands of rounds and one rail broke. Bob had it back in weeks time. The real advantage to me is that Bob will adjust slide barrel frame adjustment to bring everything into perfect alignment. He trues the frame to make it parellel to slide stop, adjusts the barrel position for center firing pin fit and tight barrel lockup. True the same thing can be done if you have end mill and oversized frame and slide. But most I've seen just fit the frame and slide for no slop fit. How many true things up first? Gunsmiths chime in here!!!!

http://www.millettsights.com/online/images...MILLETT_CAT.PDF What is a rounded tang???? I've looked them all over, I going to order a millett target from Brownells. I'll let you know what I think.

Brownells has got the millet target models, I order some and take a look.

Are Millets available from Brownells??? The Milletts are more expensive, but well worth it, in my view. Plus you don't have to mess around breaking and replacing the windage screws and all that jazz.

Just posted in Gunsmithing and REvolver same question. Do you think most people just look at new posts, or just look at certain sections????

Brownells sells a rear site replacement, that makes the rear site picture more like a Bomar. Plus a deeper notch than factory sites. Anybody using these, was thinking about replacing mine in several s&w. I read you have to break the sight screw off then replace and stake. Brownells sells the bit and stake tool, any advice in working on the site. Thanks in advance