GregSmith

Man, your shotgun work on the 2nd run was smooth!!! Nice work!

Jesse, that's still some sick shooting. All I know of you is from what I've seen on TV, but I dig you're "Balls out, hair on fire attitude." Can't wait to see you shoot in person someday! Congrats making it to the finals!

Well, the Glock is not a jalopy...and learning is different than buying...you have to learn to walk before you can learn to run...right? If you want a Ferrari of guns, then you should buy the Ferrari instead of trying to make a jalopy into it... (don't take what i said in a bad or mean way - just saying) Totally agree, and nope. Not mean. But once I learned to shoot the gun stock, there would be a subtle change when I switched trigger that would incur a small re-learning curve...then another when I add a lighter guide rod spring, or a magwell. The more experience I have in shooting, the smaller and quicker the learning curve, but still...a learning curve none the less. Agree? So, I figure since I'm really new to shooting...measure twice, cut once. Is it neccesary? Heck no... But is it fun and exciting? Yep DNH - You are more than welcome to keep the title... I came to the forum all jacked about my Colt .308 competition rifle that I got. Telling everyone how cool it is, and I'd never really even shot an AR platform before. I got slapped around by some veteran guys on here (rightfully so) humbled pretty quick. Not that I have ever thought I was a good shooter. I'm such a noob. But I was, and sometimes still am "That guy" when I get excited. I'm working on it though.

KLR, I have a feeling that's where I'm eventually going to be. Saving up for a VersaMax right now...which is why I tried to save some on the trigger... I'll try taking a little bit more off. I was thinking I needed to do that anyway. Thanks!!!

Yes! Tungsten guide rod is on the way for me too! Does your Ghost connector have the overtravel stop that you have to trim down or was it drop in? New toys, new toys. new toys!!!

Yeah, I think I just had an epiphony 10 seconds ago while reading your post. I think I'm trying to make a "cool gun" over a functional gun. I'm in "new shooter wanting new toys" mode. I'm hoping I grow out of this stage soon... But then again, maybe this "mode" is part of the fun of shooting??? I'm sure with enough practice and instruction, I could learn to run the gun well. But if you had the opportunity, wouldn't you rather learn to drive in an Audi over a beat up jalopy? Sometimes I feel like "that guy" on this forum...but I'm going to attribute it to just being really excited about shooting at the moment. Thanks for all the advice everyone! G

DNH, honesty isn't jerky. Thanks! It sounds like I will eventually just have to drop the coin for the trigger feel I want. (Or get a decent 1911) But knowing about the curved part of the trigger bar is more the information I was looking for. Maybe I polished it up too much on the .25 trigger job? Maybe that's just the way Ghost connectors work etc.

Yes, Yes, Yes I know. I've heard that before...save your money and practice. I got it, and I thank you for all of the advice. Now, can anyone tell me IF there's a way to get the trigger to break more toward the center of the pull with the Ghost Rocket? I'm literally pulling it against the frame to get it to break. Thanks in advance!

Hey Guys! A question for all of you gun-savvy people out there. I'm a super new shooter and tried my first mod. I just installed the Ghost Rocket 3.5 connector. Took a bunch of times filing, testing, filing, testing to get the trigger to break. I finally got it to break consistently, but here's my concern and question: When the trigger breaks, it's WAY to the back of the trigger housing. Pre-travel of the trigger is super long. I'm pulling it all the way to the back, then it breaks. The reset is super short. (Like 1mm or 2mm) I love THAT part of it, but I feel like the trigger should break closer to the middle of the trigger housing. (Hope my poor terminology doesn't throw you off.) This short video shows how I want it to work...and this IS what it does, except it's all the way back toward the grip. Is it just a matter of filing more of the TCT off? If not, can I do anything to get the break to be in the center of the triger guard? Can a Ghost Rocket connector EVER function like the Glockworx Fulcrum in the video? Obviously, I was trying to save some money by just doing the connector... But I've heard a lot of good things about the Ghost Rocket connector. I'm ready to be LEARNED! Thanks in advance! G Sorry about the double post, wasn't sure which forum topic would be best for this question.

Hey Guys! Another question for all of you gun-savvy people out there. I'm a super new shooter and tried my first mod. I just installed the Ghost Rocket 3.5 connector. Took a bunch of times filing, testing, filing, testing to get the trigger to break. I finally got it to break consistently, but here's my concern and question: When the trigger breaks, it's WAY to the back of the trigger housing. Pre-travel of the trigger is super long. I'm pulling it all the way to the back, then it breaks. The reset is super short. (Like 1mm or 2mm) I love THAT part of it, but I feel like the trigger should break closer to the middle of the trigger housing. (Hope my poor terminology doesn't throw you off.) This short video shows how I want it to work...and this IS what it does, except it's all the way back toward the grip. Is it just a matter of filing more of the TCT off? If not, can I do anything to get the break to be in the center of the triger guard? Can a Ghost Rocket connector EVER function like the Glockworx Fulcrum in the video? Obviously, I was trying to save some money by just doing the connector... But I've heard a lot of good things about the Ghost Rocket connector. I'm ready to be LEARNED! Thanks in advance! G

Thank you! I fixed it, thanks to you! Fully functional slide lock!

Thanks. I will check it out! Will this cover the entire question #1 or just the high floating slide lock? Am I correct in thinking the gun should return to it's original slide position while racking the gun when there is no magazine in place? Or have I gone crazy from messing with the gun too much?

Hey everyone! I'm pretty new to shooting and just tried my first small piece of gunwork. I installed a Ghost Rocket 3.5 connector on my Glock 22. Once I got over the fear of taking the gun apart, I did my .25 trigger job using a dremmel and some flitz. Made everything nice and shiney. (don't think I took too much off any one place.) I think I still need to take a little more off the overtravel stop, but that's not really the question. Where I need help is this: 1. When I rack the gun without a magazine, should the slide lock catch the slide? My gun currently does, but I don't remember it doing this before. I've watched tonight of guy racking their glocks and it returns to (is battery the term?) without getting stopped. I'm worried I may have re-installed the slide release/lock incorrectly, but it seems to be in the groove of the pin. The only thing that looks suspect is that the slide lock level stands up about 1/2 inch above the frame when the slide is off. (This seems goofy to me.) It's springy and pressed down just fine. When the slide is on, it's most likely in the correct position. I'm wondering if the little spring/wire on the slide release is the culprit? 2. On my very last trimming of the overtravel stop, I put the gun back together (Like I had done 7-10 times already while filing it down.) and the slide got stuck on something which prevented me from racking the gun. This has since been fixed, but I'm not sure if it's just not happening at the moment. It seems like the slide was running over the slide release/lock and getting off of the rails and then getting caught on the two silver rail guide bars on the back of the gun. Did I really screw up the easiest gunsmithing project on the planet? Worst case scenario, I take it to a gunsmith, but I know the intelligence level of the people on here is very high and I value all of your opinions. Hopefully y'all have some awesome things to look for to make sure the gun is working properly. Oh, anyone know where I can find a diagram or video of exactly how the trigger aseembly works while the trigger is being pulled? I have an AGI Glock video, but I'm hoping for a view that shows wherer all the parts should touch before trigger pull, where they should be moving during trigger pull etc. I'm looking to understand how it all works so I can better evaluate my gun. Thanks everyone! Oh, and please forgive me if I've called things the wrong name. G

Youkoso!

I really hope a lot of people respond to this message, because my view might be a bit biased since my wife works for Warne Scope Mounts. But here's a little input and information that I know: I have one on my Colt AR-10. I like it. I have a Leupold scope up top and Magpul MBus flip up sights on the 45. (I use the front sight mount for the front MBus sight.) I'm a new shooter, but they're solid, easy to put on and take off. That's a bit about my personal experience. Now, other info I know... http://www.thetrutha...ch-scope-rings/ A Review of their quick detach rings. (Not that you're asking about them, but to give somebody else's input on quality of product. 1. Quality control is very high. I literally asked my wife (over text cuz I'm at work.) how often they check rings just before typing this. She said, "During assembly and during packaging/shipping" So, thinking she didn't get the question, I asked "No, how often do you check for standards and flaws etc." Her answer, "Every one." so I said, "Really?!? You check every single ring and mount twice for quality control?" She said,"Yeah." 2. Customer service is really high as well. From what I've seen over the past 5 years of being with her and seeing how the company works, this seems to be their best quality. But I can't give you specifics other than knowing the guys that work there. I know they'll take care of you. 3. Not only do they make rugged, high-quality parts for themselves, but they make them for other companies, but I can't tell you who or I'll be shot. 4. Uhhh... 3-Gun Nation. Watch it. Yeah, they sponsor it, but the guys don't HAVE to use the RAMP mount, but they're everywhere. (All of the ones that say 3-gun nation on them... most are RED, but they come in blue, black, green and dark earth.) I've literally seen video of a guy dropping a rifle from a 20 ft stand onto the ground, picking it up, shooting it and it's still zeroed. The guy didn't know what rings they were, but he was like "Man, these are rugged rings. I can't believe this is still zeroed." (Paraphrased) In the lobby of the company, they have 2 large 3-inch binders absolutely filled with articles from magazines and advertisements where scopes are set on Warne mounts, but they never get credit in the pics. I know this happens all of the time with other products, it's a testimony that people are wanting their rings for their shots... and a further sign to me that Warne seems to be the best little company that the masses seem to not know about. I'm always saddened when I see how big some company's ring selection is in outdoor stores compared to the smaller selection of Warne products...but I guess a smaller selection of gold is better than a larger selection of junk. (ok, that last sentence was a tad biased.) I know some other offset mounts choose 30 degrees. I don't have a problem with the 45 degree design. I'm not going to tell you they're the best mount on the planet, but that's only because I don't know. They might be. But I know other people think Larue has a good product as well. Check Warne's website. I know what THEY think makes their product so good is: The ability of their mounts to always return to zero, the quality of steel used in the mounts, the design, the high-level of quality control for their product, their customer service and the integrity of their company. I can't imagine you being disappointed in the RAMP mount. Warne isn't the most well-known mount in the world... But I haven't figured out why not. Again, I've TRIED to be unbiased, but without much to criticize about the mount, I realize my position may not be that balanced. I am hoping that many many more people give their views for you to help you make your decision. (Good or bad) Good luck on your research. If you have any questions, I would seriously just call Warne Scope Mounts here in Tualatin, Oregon. You'll either talk to Leilani, (My wife) Randy or Justyn. You'll get to know them by name and they WILL take care of you.

I just did that a couple of days ago. We were out in the sticks and the gun was gumming up. I was scared, but it ran like a champ after. I don't think I'll be doing it again any time soon though...

1. Only co-exprs is allowed to flame my posts. 2. I don't take much personally, it's all good. But that's kind of the point of my post. Yeah I got a little excited over having my first fancy blaster. but the reality is other than companies that manufacture their guns like JP, (which I'm only assuming they do from comments and parts they make like triggers.) Most other companies piece together their guns from companies that make quality parts. So you have a gun that say, has a geissele trigger, magpul furniture, a surefire brake, a top-quality barrel, gas system BCG...who's gun did I just name? Half of them? So it comes down to QC? a combination of parts and getting lucky that they all work together? Maybe the parts in your H-bar just didn't work together, but overall Colt is a good gun maker. Some people think DPMS is entry-level, but darn it if you didn't get a fantastic rifle that you love. So how can anyone claim their gun is the best or another brand of gun is bad? Maybe it DOES come down to QC and quality of parts? Maybe it's a company like JP that makes their own stuff and knows how it all works together? But that's the point of the thread. Whatever parts a company pieces together to make their rifle, if the rifle shoots well and is reliable you can't really talk crap about it. And I know this about my Colt. Not one competition rifle leaves the factory unless they shoot sub-moa. I know the people that work there, I met the person that shot my rifle to test it, you get the target they shot with the rifle. They work. And yeah, I shot a box of Hornady Superperformance through it and had a 6 inch group and 100yards and freaked out thinking something was wrong with the gun (or my shooting). I also have shot crappy ammo through it and had groups that touch. I've learned...from shooting it, trying different ammo and reading a lot here on BE that I simply have a lot more shooting to do, and a lot more to learn. But I do know that even with my very limited experience, I've started to learn this: If the gun goes bang 99% of the time, shoots sub-moa, and doesn't have parts failing all of the time...I don't care where the parts come from, I'll take the gun, put on my 2nd degree white-belt in shooting and learn how to run it.

I was hoping the custom shop was super custom. I would love something like the Nightforce NP-22 reticle but with holdovers. I would love to design my over reticle and have them make it for me. So I guess my choices are SPR or stick with what I have... sigh.

Starting to shoot matches is far more important in the grand scheme of things over having all your gear/ideal setup. Just like the old adage "It's the Indian, not the arrow" thing. Getting a few matches under your belt will be more valuable in the sense of knowing what you really need vs, what you think you want. Plus, getting over the hurdle of learning to shoot "On the clock". It's one thing to go to the range or up in the hills and rattle off a few hundred rounds. all that goes out the window as soon as the timer goes off. I see you are down in Wilsonville. There are 3 local monthly matches within 45 minutes of you. Go shoot one. 2nd Sunday of the month is down at Albany Rifle and Pistol club off exit 228. 3rd Saturday is at Tri County Gun Club in Sherwood. 4th Sunday is at Douglas Ridge Rifle Club in Boring. (Douglas Ridge is the best for shooters new to the sport). I try to make it to all three each month and am more than happy to shoot with you and help you out. Just message me here. The next Douglas Ridge match is Sunday the 30th 9 AM. I will be there. I hear-by invite you to this match, offer to pay your $10 fee and let you use all my gear. All you have to do is show up and bring some ammo. Wow Beers, super generous of you. I can't this month, but next month sounds like a possibility! You certainly don't need to pay for anything, but I will take all the pointers and tips you have. I love how friendly and helpful people are in this sport, and you sir, have moved near the top of the list! I will PM you in January and see where we are at. Thanks again man! G

Either: Remington Versamax, A competition quality AR-15, Lots of ammo, or a class at Thunder Ranch in Southern Oregon. Dang that's not one is it... Ok, the AR, before they take'em away from us. (Or the VersaMax)

I'm running a Leupold VX-6 1-6x24 on my .308 AR. I'm a pretty new shooter, but I think it's a great scope. Glass is clear, it has capped turrets, it's easy to adjust the dials etc. I have the plain duplex reticle... I do wish I had a different reticle, (They have other reticles to choose from.) but it's 1-6 and sub 1000.00. Might wanna look into it. I would love to have a swaro, but it's pricey. If you aren't super determined to have a 1-6. I really like the Meopta ZD 1-4. The reticle looks simple and fast. Obviously the Vortex is good as well.

Well, if it's NOT the end of the world... I have a lot of Christmas shopping to do...

I'm sure you'll get used to it. Worst case scenario, re-install windows 7 if you have a computer that had it. Is windows 8 stable? (No blue screens) Is it a matter of learning the OS or is it crappy? Sadly, windows tends to get every OTHER OS right. Was hoping this was going to break the trend. I bet you there are a ton of little tutorials on youtube or just online in general that will help you. YouTube or Google things like Windows 8 Basics, Windows 8 Tutorials, Windows 8 tips and tricks. You might also try Microsoft's website. I'm sure they have tutorials as well. Hope you figure it out!

Just thought I would share...Great article. The title of the article is the title of the post. http://mobile.wnd.com/2007/04/41196/ You may have read it before. Tonight was my first time.

I'm running a Leupold VX-6 with a duplex reticle. I find that the crosshairs completely cover my target at 100 yards. Yeah, it was a small target, but not that small, maybe a 3/4" - 1" circle. I took a look through my friend's Mark 4 and his crosshairs were way thinner and I could see the target perfectly. Anyone else have this problem? I've been wondering what the perfect reticle would look like for me. I'm thinking a really thin duplex with a firedot or just a set of 3 firedots, one being center and the other two being holds. I don't know... Is the target being covered up a common problem? I can't imagine what I would or wouldn't see at 300-500 yards if the target at 100 yards is covered up. Do I just need to put on my big boy pants? Is my reticle the problem? Anyone have any tips for mastering this as is? Would you consider spending a couple of hundred to have a custom reticle made how you want?