knedrgr

The exterior shows very little wear, only a shine on the dust cover, from countless draw off a kydex holster. This is after two days worth of class.

Chuck Rogers of Roger's Precision 750 rounds unclean After cleaning.

Good one will be $200ish. It's all in the prep.

For me it was mostly with a large curve file. And then various grit sand papers, finishing up with used 600 grit. I also hate the square cut guard, so that had to go.

single stack 1911 in a double stack frame?

Thank you. It's not stake, but adhered with JB Weld. I had cut out a slot with a die grinder and straightened it up with a file. Then both surfaces were cleaned and degreased before the JB Weld was applied. Placed inside the grip to cure, using the grip as a jig.

Extractor should always be fitted to the gun. Here's a good vid from STI. Yes, the slide stop is interchangeable between 1911/2011, given that it's for the same caliber.

You'll need to check to see if the barrel is hitting the frame in the VIS area and the top of the barrel bed, once it's on the linked down position. Changing just the link can change many other things like the lock up lugs on top of the barrel, barrel hood clearance to the breach face, barrel center to the breach face, and the timing of the slide.

ramped or traditional unramped barrel? 45 or other caliber?

barrel isn't hitting the barrel bed correctly, thus causing the stretch on the barrel link.

Good to hear. Glad it worked out for you. EGW makes some truly awesome parts. My picture is of a EGW BTGS that I was fitting for that custom build. For future reference, EGW doesn't make a lot of parts that are drop-in for the 1911. Especially, their BTGS. It's meant to be over size in every aspect for a true GS fit. I've used two of their BTGS on my builds, and will be using another on an up coming build. So, it goes to show that the Range Officer was a little out of spec.

Thanks. It was more of a test to myself to see if I can do one from hand shaping of a blank stock. Weighted it the other day and it came in at 9.1 g. Alittle bit on the heavy side. So it needs to be internally relieved of some weight. For comparison, the stock Infinity trigger with the flat insert came in at 5.4 g. So if I can bring this down to around 6-7 g then it'll be better. It'll be blacken out to match the black top end. Interesting concept on using black Rit dye. Gonna have to investigate.

The reason your old BTGS wasn't working with the new MSH is that the new MSH was too thick, thus changing the angle that it engages the trigger bow. If you notice there's a stop tab at the bottom of the BTGS. This tab makes contact with the back of the MSH. If one of the two parts are too thick, you can file down either part to elongate the engagement point, thus swinging the BTGS's blocking arm down to make contact with the back of the trigger bow. Yes, the new GS will need to be fitted. To help fit the new BTGS, take off your grip panel and you can look inside to see the engagement and disengagement points. Just remember, file a little will go along way. It's easier to remove metal than to put it back on. This picture shows the BTGS disengaged (pressed) and the trigger pressed back.

Thanks. No clue on the weigh as I don't have a scale that's that sensitive. I'll have to take it into work, since we have a lab scale there.

blank flat. shoe roughly cut. Work in progress. Infiniti flat trigger for references. Just finished fitting the custom flat trigger shoe to the STI frame.

Think of it like this... Screw with the cheaper part...clip a coil off the plunger spring. You can buy a rebuild kit for $15. Screw up a slide stop and you're looking at $50 for a quality one. You can take some 600 grit and polish the face that engage the plunger to slick it up.

Or try to install a longer barrel link.

Is the slide stop Cerakote or something similar? Or just blued or stainless? Try polishing the areas that are making contact with the lug's feet. I had my 2011 Cerakoted and it tightened up slightly. Some light polishing fixed the problem.

Call SV, they will make it right. One of the best customer service in the business. You'll have to look at the feet to see if there are huge wear marks, gouges, etc. these are different from contact marks, which are normal.

I love my GSG 1911-22. It pretty much goes on every range trip. I do have some time invested in bring the GSG up to where it's at now. But worth it. The barrel bushing, thumb safety, hammer, and trigger were replaced from spare parts I had laying around. Front FO sight was new from Brazos. ANd it has been fully coated in GunKote.

sounds like the barrel feet weren't properly cut for the slide stop. A little hard to believe on a SV gun.

Have you checked to see if the extractor is clocking inside the slide? With the top end fully assemble, push the back of the extractor and see if it will turn inside the slide. This can cause incorrect geometry which can lead to all if your problems: FTF and FTE. One last thing could be a tight chamber which could also your issues.

Yes, the slide stop is the same for both 1911 or 2011. You can polish the face of the slide stop AND the plunger's pin end with some 600 grit sand paper. Also look to see if the slide stop pin is binding with the barrel's lower lug and link, when its link down. You can check this with the barrel removed and insert the slide stop in the link, and move it back and forth.

Just picked up the VIP from a forum member. A really nice gun to boot. However, I was a little curious, after reading another thread, and got an idea. So here's a picture of a VIP 45ACP slide on a Duty One 45ACP frame. Basically took my VIP top and swapped it on to my friend's lower. Cycles nicely and everything functions. No protrusion on the recoil master's guide rod. And here's a look at the two different frames. VIP on the left, Duty One on the right. These were taken before I had to run to work, so I didn't have time to take real measurements, but they look almost identical on rail length, and VIS area.