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HOGRIDER

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Everything posted by HOGRIDER

  1. No mention of the part number being any different in the caliber conversions; page shows the bolt and part number with relationship to toolhead. IMO, this same part number/bolt has been used in the RL1050/S1050/RL1100 machines regardless of caliber........... MIM or inferior made part! #5
  2. Thank you Sir! Sure appreciate you taking the time to research this!
  3. ltdmstr: They look the same.........but IMO are very different quality........... Here are a couple of pics of my RL1100 cam bolt. Second pic shows the outer perimeter cracked in a couple of places; and the walls of the hex insert/stamping will not grab the allen wrench...........
  4. ltdmstr: That sure looks very similar if not identical to the one on the RL1100! Wow! Would you happen to have a part number on that particular one? Dillon Part #12486 is what's listed on my RL1100. THANK YOU for posting the pics and info!
  5. BTW: a contact said his RL1050 had a similar setup, and that his cam bolt had been there for 25 years and never failed! Anyone browsing here that may have an RL-1050 that can elaborate on the type of cam bolt used on those machines? Thanks!
  6. Well, add me to the list of failed Primer Cam Guide Bolt victims! Was removing the Toolhead to install the RI Lighting System, and when I tried to remove the cam guide bolt, the hex insert that allows the allen key to tighten/remove literally fell apart! Outer perimeter is cracked...........had to use a pair of vice grips to get it out..... And what's odd, is I had already had this bolt out when removing the ratchet, and had reinstalled it with less tightening force than it was originally installed with! Firefighter hit the nail on the head: cheap azz pot metal or MIM bolt! SMH
  7. Agree! 2 standard 1/4" flat washers will almost replicate the thickness of the Toohead Ratchet.
  8. LOL! Very easily to get confused looking at a McMaster-Carr catalog! Too many sizes to choose from! The last item (partially threaded stud) would work; however the threaded portion is 1/2" long and the tool head is just over 3/8" thick..........but it shouldn't be a problem in a pinch.......
  9. MvMojo: I too am interested in seeing a pic. If your having sizing problems, send us a copy and I'm sure one of us can resize and post it for you. I noticed Home Depot has some 1/4"-20 x 1" ss bolts that have a shoulder.....was this what you used? I took a pic of the mechanism, and looks like there's very little room for any kind of "bolt head" next to the Primer Slide Indexing assembly. But you stated you ground the head off, so that should have worked. Wondering how you tightened the headless bolt.............
  10. Everyone: I guess at this point I need to update. Redding wanted to send me a new decapper shaft and pin before I reinstalled the Pro Titanium Sizing Die. I'm sure my method of checking the EGW/Lee UDie next to the Redding Pro was very unscientific, but it was the best I could come up with at the moment. I took new Starline brass, and measured the top (just below/next to the mouth), middle, and base above the extractor groove. After running through the Lee UDie, the top measurements averaged exactly -.003"! The middle was an average of -.003". I was very impressed with the consistency of that top measurement averaging out to -.003" as Lee claims! All brass was lubed with Hornady One Shot. I next grabbed another batch of new Starline. Repeated the same procedure, with the Redding Pro Titanium Sizer, and to my surprise the top measurements after resizing averaged -.002". Middles were averaging -.002". All base measurements were unchanged. After contacting Redding Tech Support, they were able to confirm that the Titanium Pro Die does indeed create a reduction of approximately -.002". He did state that this was coming from memory as he was operating remotely and did not have the actual print available......... IMO, and this may be due to my history/familiarity of using the Redding die, the Redding was just a smoother consistency during the ENTIRE resizing process. So for now, I'm going to give up that -.001" and go forward with completing the next hurdle in this machines operating cycle. I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has replied and tried to help me though this.
  11. Only thing that prohibits that particular part number is the 10x24 thread pitch......the Dillon Cam Bolt uses 1/4"x 20 thread size. Definitely reduces the options available in this shoulder bolt selection........ https://www.mcmaster.com/precision-shoulder-bolts/alloy-steel-precision-shoulder-screws-8/thread-size~1-4-20/ Edit: Just found this that appears to be closer to what we need.......still searching............... https://www.mcmaster.com/97042A172-97042A172
  12. Mine is still mounted in the toolhead as I removed only the toolhead ratchet....... I just took some measurements of the shoulder diameter, length, and thickness of tool head where the stud bolts into. IIRC, the treads of the Cam Guide Bolt are 1/4x20. Since the thickness of the tool head in that area is just over 3/8" thick, 1/4" or 5/16" long threads would be fine. The Guide Bolt sits out over a 1/2" from the ratchet, and is 1/4" diameter on the shoulder. Researching the link at McMaster-Carr above, when selecting the 1/4"x20 thread size & pitch, there is not a shoulder size that would be compatible with the rest of the specs of the Dillon Cam Guide Bolt. So, someone is making this for Dillon; but it appears to be cheaply made or possibly a MIM part. And IMO, the "head" of the McMaster-Carr shoulder bolt would interfere and/or catch on the Primer Slide Indexing Assembly......... As of right now, it appears we are stuck with the Dillon part as is.........unless they experience a bunch of failures and decide to force the manufacturer to produce a stronger unit. BTW: I find that Dillon's #66206 Spare Parts Kit for the RL1100 actually includes a Cam Guide Bolt! We may need to stock up on extras............ SMH......
  13. Should be a given to use a quality part at this location! Wonder if something along this line would work as a replacement? https://www.mcmaster.com/precision-shoulder-bolts/alloy-steel-precision-shoulder-screws-8/
  14. chgo: Is this the same issue your having with the primer cam guide bolt? https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/285118-rl1100-broken-cam-guide-bolt-pn-12486-help/
  15. I have really tried to do my research, and it seems the solutions are all over the place! https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/242169-case-sticking-to-powder-funnel/ https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/265993-cases-sticking-on-powder-funnel-new-problem/ https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/253314-dillon-650-powder-die-sticking/ I think your onto something by doing away with the stainless pins and using some sort of solution that will still get the brass "clean enough", but without being "squeaky" clean. I'm wondering if this might be a solution for cleaning without pins? https://www.thereloadingstation.com/products/brass-juice-case-wash Thanks for your feedback!
  16. AHI: What I do know is I've moved up to a S1050/RL1100 type press, and I'm attempting to set it up CORRECTLY using methods that have worked before in years of loading on XL650s. And, the ONLY THING that I'm doing different on MY END, other than the press, is I'm trying to set up using the Lee 9mm Undersize Die instead of my Redding Pro Titanium Sizing Die. And yes, I have the opportunity to stop using the UDie, but I would like to give it a go as it seems to be the go-to sizing die for so many competition and professional shooters; and I don't give up easy! Yes, I do clean my brass with the wet tumble, stainless pins process; and have for many years. And I feel confident that many, many shooters on this forum also use the wet tumble cleaning process! It seem that those companies that provide PROCESSED BRASS, appear to use the "wet clean" process also; just to name a few........ https://www.ammobrass.com/product-page/9mm-fully-processed-reloading-brass https://eastcoastreloading.com/processed-9mm/ https://blueridgebrass.com/product/bulk-wholesale-processed-9mm-reloading-brass/ So yea, it may appear to some of the seasoned loaders here that I have a problem "I've been chasing across 3 different threads"..........but feel free to avoid reading my posts if they upset you or aggravate you in any way!
  17. Thanks, and appreciate your feedback.
  18. Dirt: I hope to contact Nathan and establish some communication on Monday. Right now, it definitely appears to be depositing brass on the funnel; but I haven't tried to remove it and clean to see if the coating is coming off.......... I was doing a little research and came across this post of yours from a few years back............. Are you still using this same process or something similar? THANKS!
  19. Dirt and EVERYONE: For some reason, I had undesirable results with my 20 round test run. I thought maybe it's got some protectant on it, so gave it a thorough cleaning then applied a bit of lube to the flaring section along with One Shot on cases and a bit in the case mouths......... Did not help! So right now I'm scratching my head.......... It was suggested to me by an industry professional, that the primary reason for sticking issues was my use of the 9mm Lee Undersize Die! Right now, for those successfully using the Alpha Dropper, would you mind sharing your caliber and sizing die being used? THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!
  20. Finally got time to unpack the new 9mm Alpha Dropper............ Dirtchevy841 had provided some excellent dimensions above on the .40 S&W Alpha: https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/284639-the-alpha-dropper/?do=findComment&comment=3177986 And since mine was in 9mm, thought I'd get some comparison specs just to see where the differences were. As stated above, the Alpha utilizes a continuous taper starting at around .352" and going up another .010" till it starts the aggressive "flare". OAL was right about 2.900" which is just over 1/4" longer than the MBF funnel. Maybe this pic will give some semblance of differences in the stock RL1100 expander, the 9mm MBF, and the 9mm Alpha. Hope to start fresh tomorrow morning and see if the Alpha holds up to it's claims!
  21. Dirt: Thanks for the excellent information! Mine's at the PO, so hopefully I'll get to do some comparison tonight or tomorrow.
  22. I remember when I recommended switching from the Dillon XL650 powder funnel over to the MBF funnel, there "appeared" to be a big difference on OAL simply going by the posted pics.............. https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/205711-fix-for-shaving-lead-bullets/?do=findComment&comment=2396647 Sometimes the angles of the pics distort the true relationship......
  23. Dirt: I truly appreciate you taking the time to do all the measuring........I fully understand the 2 straight length steps of the MBF vs the one "tapered" step of the Alpha. Looking forward to your test results on cases for "popping"!!! THANK YOU!
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