HOGRIDER

Went back and watched the video a couple more times.......and yes, I did pickup on the "thump" of the MBF powder funnel. A little easier to notice during your slo-mo sections of the video. I've also heard that mixed brass will actually cause more "sticking" on some cases than others........ I believe is was "Sarge" that commented a while back that he simply "powers through" the funnel stick and doesn't really notice it. Thanks!

SA: Just noticed at the info section of your YouTube video: So would you attribute the smoothness of your loading to the brass being "only" cleaned with the Brass Juice Wash (without stainless pins?) and followed up with the Brass Juice Case Lube? Thanks again!

SA: I'll start off by saying your video was excellent IMO! The slo-mo sections helped to see a lot of your details. I'd like to hear what dies are in your setup? What components were you using? I see your using the MBF powder funnel.........but didn't notice any "sticking" as your brass came down out of the powder measure. Reason? Were you using a particular brass lube? Would appreciate any details you may offer! THANK YOU!

About 12 weeks (last part of April) into my 14 week wait for my 9mm RL1100, I also insisted they just send me the press without any dies as I didn't use the Dillon dies anyway! Was told that WAS NOT an option as every press had to be set up and tested with the included dies before they could be shipped. As I found out during this ordeal, accurate info was totally dependent on who you were talking to at the time of your call......... SMH........

quiksilverj: Maybe this will help.......... https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/285692-mark7-evo-crush-primers/?do=findComment&comment=3182537

Congratulations!

454bore: Photo Escape is actually manufacturing the powder funnel to original specs, here in the USA, as designed by MBF/RAK Systems. The are also available here: http://uniquetek.com/product/T1582 I have also considered many times sending one of my MBF funnels out for TiN coating. So I'll be following your thread closely! Thanks!

Great idea!

I'm in the same situation right now...........haven't decided which direction to go with improving the MBF funnel. One thing I did learn in my research is that since the RL1100 has a much larger shell plate vs the XL650, there is more room for "flex" which is going to amplify the "sticking" of the brass coming out of the funnel. Hopefully there will eventually be user(s) that will share their success stories on how to machine/file/polish the MBF funnel to all but eliminate the sticking!

I'm sure you are correct. And I have the SS bolts handy should it fail again! Thanks!

Good point, and could very well be true..........

chevrofreak: I truly feel and share your pain! Hope you get it worked out. I don't remember what caliber you had ordered, but this new member had posted on FB about the EXCELLENT service he had received from DAA when ordering his RL1100. https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/285615-rl1100-purchase-and-setup/ Maybe give them a call? HTHs

Just as a follow up............. I was at Lowes and purchased a couple of 1/4-20 x 2" bolts along with a couple of 1/4-20 x 1.75" bolts to have on hand just in case the Primer Cam Bolt took a turn for the worse. Plus mvmojo and ddc were using the bolts as successful backup replacements. I remember someone mentioning that the cam bolt needed a washer or something behind the shoulder to put the bolt at the proper distance from the toolhead. 2, 1/4" washers OR 2, 1/4"x1" fender washers worked in thickness and seemed ok. Those 1" fender washers seemed like the perfect diameter! Then it hit me that I had purchased (at Lowes) a stick of 1/8" x 1" x 4' long flat aluminum bar stock to make some soft jaws for my and my Son's bench vises. So, I cut a piece 1" x 1 1/8" long, and drilled a 7/32" hole right in the center. The extra 1/8" length was filed down to make sure I had a good, flush fit. The stock Toolhead Ratchet is 0.137" thick while the Hillman aluminum flat bar is 0.127" thick. IMO, this is more than close enough! Just another option for those that like to remove the ratchet while retaining the stock Primer Cam Bolt. And, BTW, Dillon sent me 2 new Cam Bolts plus I ordered a Spare Parts Kit for the RL1100. Surely I'll have enough spares..............

Pauly: Welcome to Brian Enos' Forums! Great to see you come over from Dillon Reloaders - The Blue Group! I'm sure there are others here that may benefit from hearing of your great experience with DAA. And there's lots of reading pertaining to the new RL1100 plus a large group of veteran RL1050/S1050 users that enjoy helping out those new to this platform.

chgo: Since it's been a LONG day for me.......if you don't mind..........bring me up to date on your die setup and why your process is so smooth! I can see the MBF powder funnel under the Dillon powder drop, but not sure what's being used in Stations #2 and #3......... THANKS!

SMOOTH! [emoji106][emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That will work! Thanks ddc!

Looks good ddc! What was your original OAL bolt length? [emoji106][emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

double post; please delete..........

Was just trying some different options for taking up the space/thickness to replace the ratchet, and two 1/4"x1" fender washers work perfectly to fit into the tool head recess. These are from Lowe's.............

Sig: I'm taking a guess that mvmojo may have used this one.......... https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-1-4-in-x-1-in-Stainless-Coarse-Thread-Hex-Bolt/3701934

Lot of great advise above...........I'm in the same boat as zzt! Another pic that provides dimensions that are easy to measure:

RT: Funny that you mention that..........the Dillon Tech was curious as to why I had removed the bolt in the first place; and I told him that to install the RI Starlight system I had to remove the toolhead. And since this was my first 1050/1100 class machine, I was simply following the directions which states to remove the bolt and ratchet as "step 1" when removing the toolhead! His reply was that it wasn't actually necessary to remove the ratchet/bolt assembly when removing the toolhead............. So, I probably need to watch a few videos to get a better handle on this procedure. I'm thinking with the primer slide indexing assembly clamp and primer magazine so close by, and the toolhead pin/spring assembly at the rear, I'm not real sure just how difficult it would be to get the toolhead off with the ratchet intact.

Ok, yea I think your right! Everyone is in a huge rush........... I did call Dillon and after I had sent an email last night, they are sending me 2 new ones out priority mail. The Tech claimed these were a premium, case hardened bolt that did not require any loctite! Told him mine had more than enough; and he feels that is causing problems. Supposedly reporting to assembly supervisors........... I politely disagreed with the quality of his bolt; but did agree that production is probably using too much, and/or using the wrong loctite............. I'll still be applying 1 drop of Loctite 222 to mine when they get here................

If you remove the Toolhead, the ratchet and the cam bolt that holds it to the toolhead are removed.........