HOGRIDER
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Posts posted by HOGRIDER
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On 8/5/2020 at 12:57 AM, chgofirefighter said:
EGW is the exact same die as the Lee U die only factor is that you'll end up spending more. I contacted EGW and they confirmed that it's basically a rebranded Lee U die
This is correct!
I have verified the same info with an earlier phone call to EGW..............
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20 hours ago, chgofirefighter said:
I agree with the above, definitely go with the RL~ and don't look back, you can get the MBF later on or buy one from Karl Bibb on Facebook which is a 3D printed one and works well~
Rob:
I mounted the MBF on a pipe platform with Rick's delrin mount. After installing the new motor/gearbox assembly, the Pro Dropper Assembly, and the correct Collator Nose Guide Spacer, I was AMAZED at how easily the RL1100 operated with my only input of pulling the handle and paying attention to the powder measure assembly operation!!!!!
Since this is my first foray into the 1050/1100 platform, I've got a gut feeling that I need to set up some sort of camera system to monitor my powder drops. Many experienced loaders will probably chime in and say it's not necessary; but my better judgement says to monitor it until I've had several thousand, problem free reloads that only require my attention to keep the powder hopper full of N320!
Is this a fair assessment?
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52 minutes ago, Dirty_J said:
Brilliant idea.
Can you link me to the part needed to do this? I presume they sell it separately, so you can leave different tool heads setup..
After talking with Rick (http://www.mrbulletfeeder.biz/), he also recommended upgrading to the Pro unit....
I purchased from here and received EXCELLENT SERVICE!
https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/mr-bulletfeeder-machines-and-accessories?max_items=128
IMO, the extra $50+ (above the standard dropper) is well worth the upgraded parts.
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3 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:
I do not see any issue in buying an 1100 without bullet feeder today, to expand in the future. At least you have the ability to upscale, and have swagging as a part of the package. What you can do in the interim is just but the MBF die, if you plan to load bullets by hand for and extended period of time. This prevents the need for putting your hand in the press. You hand feed the die instead of the MBF feeding the die. My MBF was down for a minute and this process worked great. If you plant to buy the MBF sooner than later I wouldn't worry about it. People have to work with the budgets they have, that way the don't have to sacrifice scalability in the future.
I was on the fence too long on which press to buy. The Super 1050 or the 750. So glad I went the 1050 route. I don't know how many primer detonations I would have had already without the swagging capability of the 1050. Its pretty easy to sense when the old primer is still in the primer pocket when you get to the bottom of the down stroke and the lever feels spongy. Just learn to pull that casing out of the swagging station before allowing the handle to cycle up. Let the handle return up slightly and remove the casing. Other wise you have to remove the Primer Station Retainer Tab once the press advances to the priming station to remove the questionable casing.
As someone that was loading on the RL1100 without a MBF, I can attest that it's a bit awkward reaching in to place the bullet on a case. It does give you a chance to take a good look at the powder level though. I also had, prior to the MBF, the Dillon Bullet Tray installed and that made for a harder "reach in" ..........
IMO, Boomstick303 has provided some excellent advice on an alternative of hand feeding the Bullet Dropper Assembly vs placing each bullet on the case by hand! I opted to start my MBF experience with the Pro Dropper Assembly, and it easily holds 14-15 bullets when full!
Crank out over a dozen rounds with ease; drop a handful in the Dropper, and go at it again! This would definitely be my process if I had to give up/do without the complete MBF!
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2 minutes ago, Dirty_J said:
Yeah. I’ve had just enough crimped pockets to get on my nerves with my once fired brass. The $800 difference between an XL750 and the RL1100 spread over a few years will easily be worth the saved irritation!
Yea, I forgot to mention that the built in primer pocket swager is another significant advantage over the 650/750 platform! Especially for those reloading range brass!
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2 hours ago, Dirty_J said:
Awkward to operate at all? Looks like you’re leaning over the finished bullet bin and under the case feeder.
Strongly considering an RL1100 over a 750... but won’t have the funds for a bullet feeder - at least not initially.
Thoughts?
D_J:
As a new RL1100 owner, I'll chime in with my findings............
After many, many, years of loading on the XL650 platform for competition and now recreational shooting, I made the jump to the RL1100 platform. I had read so many posts here on the forum about the merits of the S1050. Just about the time I was ready to order, the RL1100 is gaining all the spotlight and coming with an additional 1 year warranty for the SAME MONEY!
My biggest disappointment was I went through 14 WEEKS of aggravation waiting on an order that was supposed to arrive in 6-8 weeks. It was supposedly due to Covid-19; but was still a stressful time! And calling/talking to the reps at Dillon Precision just added fuel to the fire! So, if you decide to make the jump just be prepared for a substantial wait. Hold onto the 750 until your RL1100 arrives at your doorstep if you don't want your reloading process to be interrupted.
Just today, I loaded my first 100 rounds with the RL1100 optimized (to my standards) plus I have just added the Mr. BulletFeeder along with the Pro Series Dropper. Let me just say that I was so impressed with how well the press and MBF functioned that I just stood back and said: "why did I wait so long to do this!" Yes, it's that good! However, I have loaded several hundred rounds without the MBF; and IMO, once you get the RL1100 set up to your standards, it's still an absolute joy to load on compared to the XL650/750 platform. And, I AM NOT putting down the 650/750 platform in any way; it's just I now like knowing that I have additional Stations that IMO improve the quality of ammo being produced plus I absolutely love the 1050/1100 priming process!
I still don't have my camera system set up for monitoring the powder level, but today I knocked out 100 rounds in about 15 minutes using the MBF; and I was still stopping a few times to weigh the powder drop!
Not the first rejected round; and the finished rounds were excellent in OALs, etc.
Yea, the finished bullet bin is always in the way; but you just learn to work around it. Visibility is not restricted in any way IMO!
Bottom line is I definitely recommend making the jump to the RL1100; and later on you can add the MBF which just offers the icing on the cake!
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I also have both; but I did get the Armanov Case Gauge 3-in-1 bundle that included the OAL Checker and Brass Marking Stencil.
I find myself primarily using the Armanov which comes with the free flip cover. And, I like using the OAL Checker!
This video offers up some of the highlights...............
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On 10/9/2018 at 3:22 PM, ALRAY said:
I was having occasional hammer follow on a 2011 open gun. It was a challenge to diagnose because the hammer follow would only occur during live fire. I went through the usual suspects. First I tried adjusting the sear spring, but it would still happen even with up to a 4lb trigger pull. Next, I replaced the sear and hammer with new EGW parts. Using trigger adjustment pins I could see that there was very good positive engagement, and again, I couldn’t replicate the hammer follow except during live fire. I had already checked the grip screws which were Loctited after prior experience on a different gun on which loose grip screws causing hammer follow. In order to see exactly what was going on during live fire, I fired the pistol with the grip safety removed. Apparently during live fire, the left leaf of the sear spring was jumping off the sear and would settle under the sear, pushing up from the bottom. It was the plastic STI grip that was either cracked or worn to the point that it was allowing the sear spring to move under fire. I couldn’t find any visible cracks in the grip. After replacing the grip, the pistol is up and running, with the original sear, hammer and sear spring.
I should have suspected this issue was slowly in the making. About a year ago, the left leaf began slipping off to the left of the sear. After reading around the forum, I fixed this by shimming the sear spring so it wouldn’t fall off and it worked fine for over a year.
One possibility that I did not experiment with was simply changing the grip screw bushings. I don’t think this would have solved it because when observing the amount of play the sear spring had in the new old grip vs the new one, there was significantly less in the new grip.
This might help........... https://www.egwguns.com/evolved-1911-sear-spring-2-pack
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Just bought my first MBF (USED)to go on the new RL1100. While bench testing and checking proper flip for my Zero 147 JHP, the motor started to fail by getting hot and slowing down substantially. Called DAA and all they asked was what date code was stamped on the motor. Was 20121122; or 11/22/2012. So I was a bit shocked with the motor being that old. Come to find out it, the age of my MBF was estimated to be 5-6 years old.
All in all this has been as excellent learning experience as I've been able to do some trouble shooting while learning the intricate features and operation of the MBF! And, moving forward, I have ordered the new motor/gearbox assembly, which IMO is very reasonably priced at $24.50. Also needed a new Dislodge Arm Spring which was N/C.
Ordered a Collator Nose Guide Spacer Set since there was only one with the machine; and after talking with Rick K., I went ahead and upgraded to the new Pro Dropper Assembly.
Have to say while dealing with Tom at DAA, he provided me with Excellent Customer Service! Highly recommend anyone needing MBF support, to ask for Tom in Sales and Technical Support!
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13 hours ago, Richdab said:
Hi DJ, Im not sure what a Feedinator is sorry. But Im just going to buy a new motor and keep using the Dillon case feeder.
Rich:
I think this is what DJ was referring to.......
https://www.hasgrok.com/?product=feedinator-1000-case-feeder
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19 hours ago, ck1 said:
I hear ya on the “just power through it” mantra, that holds true in many aspects of life, not just reloading lol
But, at the same time, at least for me, I’m not just throwing money at a problem either... I’ve only been reloading for like a week and it’s already become apparent that some tools are better for the job than others; a perfect example is the MBF funnel compared to the stock Dillon funnel: I don’t know much, but it only took me about 5 minutes to see that the MBF funnel works way better and is a superior design...
Now judging by all the threads floating around about cases getting hung up and/or stuck on the funnels (whether Dillon or MBF) and what I’ve seen for myself in a short time, if the dudes at SSI have really come up with a further developed design that improves on the MBF funnel, and it works, then I’m alright with taking the small bet on it.
It might suck, I don’t know yet, but I’m all about using the best/latest design if I can. I mean I’m pretty sure they didn’t design it to stick any more, at least I hope hahaha
A visual comparison for the 1050/1100 users.............
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If anyone needs the alignment instructions......................
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2y87plof7106hbr/Dillon Alignment.pdf?dl=0
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Highly recommend calling Dillon and getting the free alignment tools!
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On 7/8/2020 at 12:28 AM, Santini said:
Thanks guys for all the helpful posts. Glad to see that this is a common problem with known solutions.
So, this morning I removed the powder funnel. It was pretty rough with vertical grooves. I chucked it in the drill press and set it for 250 rpm’s. I used a 400 grit Emory cloth and sanded for about 3 minutes. I took the funnel out and inspected it, but it needed more sanding. The second session did the trick...pretty smooth. I then used some brass polish to shine it up.
After reinstalling on the 650XL, it ran smoothly with no hang ups. I imagine I will have to do this periodically. By the way, I have reloaded about 6,000 rounds of .40 S&W so far. I’ve not encountered this with 9mm.
I was a rookie when I purchased the 650XL in 2015. My only help was the many YouTube videos and this forum, which I love. Thanks again for the help.
I was experiencing this with my previous XL650 in 9mm, but didn't really notice it since the shell plate is much smaller (rigid) than the RL1100's. I posted this in another thread, and right now it's still proving true; however, I still have a bit more testing to do.
Quote
Thought I'd chime in with some new findings concerning the MBF funnel............
Exchanging ideas with someone that FULLY understands the design principle of the MBF style funnel, I was informed that the reason our new/wet tumbled brass "stick" during extraction was due to surface friction.
So, at his recommendation, he machined the upper step down to .357" and sent the funnel for me to try. Using nothing but Hornady One Shot case lube along with a swipe of Imperial Wax on the MBF style funnel expander with Imperial Wax, I was able to load 100 rounds with little to no sticking whatsoever from start to finish.
The Zero 147g JHPs are . 355" to .3555" while two different brands of coated lead I checked were averaging .356" to .3565 max. With the .357" upper step on the funnel, there was no reason to use the stock funnel that averages .358" to .3585"! I could easily seat either bullet style/size, by hand, after coming out of the expander funnel.
Got some aftermarket fully processed brass I want to try also; but my "initial impression" with this slight modification has me thinking this definitely looks very promising and deserves more thorough testing. -
1 hour ago, dxv_dfw said:
Has anyone consider using a set screw? Home Depot has a 1/4-20 x 1" set screw that is the same length as the original part.
As noted above, there are a few options.........
https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/285434-issues-with-rl1100/page/2/
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6 hours ago, ozzyj said:
Have you seen better performance in any sense (accuracy, ES/SD, etc) with a specific weight of bullet with N320?
ozzyj:
When I started primarily shooting 9mm, and having to experiment with all the different weights of bullets, I always came back to the 147g for my standard loading. I have dabbled in loading/testing the 135g Coated Lead, but again I've always gravitated back to the 147g weights.
IMHO, my experiences have found that using the right (burn rate) VV powder (N320, N330, N340) with your preferred bullet weight will produce the lowest ES/SD once you find what that particular pistol/barrel likes.
Here's a great example of how the VV line of powders can improve your bullet performance; start at 12:40:
https://youtu.be/w88kQT8JKaI?t=760
Finally, if I had a pistol/situation where the 124g/125g bullets were optimized, I would definitely take a hard look at the N330/N340 loadings!
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5 minutes ago, rev1911 said:
I had a hard time getting N320 to make decent velocity with 115gr (within my comfort zone). At max loads I started seeing increased ES/SD. Particularly with FMJ bullets.
For 124gr, 135gr, and 147gr, N320 is awesome.
Though I never load 115g ammo, IMO N330 would be more applicable to the lighter bullet weights............
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As a LONG TIME user of N320, I've always found that VV provides a lot of info that helps us taylor a specific load to our intended purpose!
https://www.vihtavuori.com/reloading-data/handgun-reloading/?cartridge=89
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15 hours ago, Sarge said:
I did that with my original Dillon funnel very early in my reloading. I found that there is a fine line between just right and too much. I crossed that line. Reloading was smooth as silk but the bullets ended up seating off center. Had all kinds of feeding issues.
Just an FYI to check out before loading a years worth of ammo.
Sarge: Thanks for that reminder!
I did give them a thorough check by individually gauging along with dropping in the Hundo.
Also going to try a few, new Starlines along with some of the aftermarket fully processed.
So far, so good..........
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10 hours ago, Yagi said:
Which one is more accurate ? Truncated Cone, Flat Nose or Round Nose in 9mm.
Tell us your pistol set up. (Make, Model, Barrel, Barrel Length, etc.)
Not sure if this bullet is Truncated Cone or Flat Point; but they produced this grouping in my STI Gen1 Staccato P (4.15" barrel), at 20 yards, from a Ransom Rest:
https://www.federalpremium.com/handgun/american-eagle/american-eagle-handgun/11-AE9FP.html
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7 minutes ago, chumly2071 said:
I just had this same failure with a brand new toolhead. I was cruising along, noticed it was loose, and when I tightened it, it shattered. Pretty disappointed.
Some related info from users with the same dilemma.........
https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/285434-issues-with-rl1100/page/2/
The guide bolt appears to now be a MIM part that is, IMO, a poor quality part! Several users here with much older machines have never experienced a failure using the same part. Some for over 20 years!
According to Dillon, this part is NOT supposed to be installed with any loctite!
Call Dillon they'll send you replacements; or just buy several spares to keep on hand. And yes, they are included in the RL1100 spare parts kit.
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Thought I'd chime in with some new findings concerning the MBF funnel............
Exchanging ideas with someone that FULLY understands the design principle of the MBF style funnel, I was informed that the reason our new/wet tumbled brass "stick" during extraction was due to surface friction.
So, at his recommendation, he machined the upper step down to .357" and sent the funnel for me to try. Using nothing but Hornady One Shot case lube along with a swipe of Imperial Wax on the MBF style funnel expander with Imperial Wax, I was able to load 100 rounds with little to no sticking whatsoever from start to finish.
The Zero 147g JHPs are . 355" to .3555" while two different brands of coated lead I checked were averaging .356" to .3565 max. With the .357" upper step on the funnel, there was no reason to use the stock funnel that averages .358" to .3585"! I could easily seat either bullet style/size, by hand, after coming out of the expander funnel.
Got some aftermarket fully processed brass I want to try also; but my "initial impression" with this slight modification has me thinking this definitely looks very promising and deserves more thorough testing.
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11 hours ago, ddc said:
Mine was loose when it came from Dillon also.
The first time I operated the machine it started flapping around.
I'm brand spanking new to the machine at this point, don't have even half a clue how it all works and I'm going "wtf" that can't be right...oh well...figured it out ok in the end.
I've taken it off several times now for cleaning and those instructions are essentially what I do also for re-installation.
ddc:
I talked with the Dillon Tech earlier, and he's basically saying that with the handle/toolhead all the way down, eyeball/move the slide actuating lever to vertical/straight position. Then raise the lever arm bracket anywhere from .010" to no more than .050" up on the magazine shield and snug the screw. He recommended scribing a line around the mag shield for future reference.
Last step was to rotate/align the actuating lever/bracket assembly so that the tip of the actuating lever was riding close to the center of the brass bushing/primer slide assembly.
I was really scratching my head trying to figure out why it came loose........Tech thinks it was a bit too loose when it left the factory.
I now understand why the "seasoned" 1050/1100 users keep stating that Dillon needs to update the priming system; but in all fairness it works fine when everything is adjusted correctly!
Thanks for your feedback!
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9 minutes ago, Dirtchevy841 said:
Hog
if you using mixed brass when you set it up just barley kiss the inside of the case and maybe back it off barley so it doesn’t jam into case on mixed brass. I made that mistake the first time i set it up.
I wasn't sure about how to set this up just right; but like you thought there might be a happy medium in case I was using different brass. Right now I've got plenty of once fired Winchester that's been fully processed..........
Since I already had the 9mm Swage Setter from Ammo Brass, I decided to use that as a go-gauge for initial setup using a spent primer. After I got the shell plate full, I needed 1/4 turn on the primer punch to get an average of .005" seat depth. Once I get the Primer Slide Indexer Assembly lined out, I can get back to seeing how everything's working out............
Thanks for your help!
RL1100 with a bullet feeder?
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Teed:
I definitely understand your position and appreciate your honest feedback!
Since I've never purchased an Endoscope, I'm wondering if the "semi rigid" cable is strong enough to support the camera being placed near the shell plate for a solid, non-shaking, view during operation?
I've had my eye on this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QV83RSS/?coliid=IOA9DR8P09GA6&colid=1MM0GJ6KCYV6I&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Right now I have a spare 10" Samsung (Android) tablet that I can mount/use with the Endoscope. Also have a 7" vga monitor that I could hook up directly to an automotive back-up camera. I'm thinking that the Android Tablet with the Endoscope camera will be the way to go; but I'm open for suggestions!
Thanks!