HOGRIDER

I recently put a few too many in the MBF, and had my FIRST bullet that fell on the case upside down! So now, I try to put about 200 (9mm JHP) at a time as that seems to settle things down. I also keep a .45acp fmj bullet in the hopper to make sure the last ones feed out.

Some food for thought............ When I first got the RL1100, I was fighting the press trying to make the Lee U-Die part of the equation vs using my regular Redding Pro Titanium sizer/decapper. I knew that several here on the forum were using them in various calibers and having no issues. After talking with George at EGW and a friend that's an engineer at Redding, I set out to see exactly what was the difference in these two sizing dies. To make a long story short, I put the Lee back in the cabinet and have stayed with the Redding. ZERO issues with press operation and/or bullet setback. (Non-Major, standard PF 9mm) In all fairness, I do use FULLY PROCESSED, once fired Winchester brass; or occasionally new Starline for testing purposes.......

Just remembered this thread has a LOT of inspiration on how/where to mount the MBF!

Mark: This is the one I use; and so far, I've been 110% satisfied with the amount and quality of lighting this thing puts out. Highly recommend!

I used a 1" flange base, 1"x24" pipe, a 1"to 3/4" bell reducer, and a 3/4"x12" nipple. Gave me the perfect height! Should be available at any hardware store......... Got mine at Lowe's.

Cuz: Another optional add-on that definitely helps to stabilize the cases for consistent primer seating depth. https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/284641-rl-1100-and-everglades-primer-hold-down/ This has proven to be a valuable add-on to MY RL1100! https://www.evergladesammo.com/ega-hold-down-die.html

Just bought my first CZ (S2 Orange) to shoot in Production, and it's an awesome pistol right out of the box! I too have made some small changes. Installed the CGW's #54440 extended firing pin along with the 11.5 main spring as I wanted to get the DA pull down a bit. I have installed the floating trigger pin but haven't installed the RP trigger return spring yet as the S/A pull is very good! Have the CGW tuner's pack of recoil springs; but for now the stock spring is offering excellent ejection of the spent casings. I'll definitely make some changes once I settle on my final reload. Also one of the most accurate pistols out of the box I have ever owned! Good luck!

Yea, I use the Inline Fabrication case feed stop also. Works like a charm! Also recommend a Ammo Brass LLC swage setter. And highly recommend a Dillon Spare Parts kit. If not, then at least order a few extra #12486 Cam Guide Bolts! One of those situations where the latest bolt is "not made like they used to make them" if you get my drift........... You'll love the RL1100 once you get it set up the way you like it!

Cuz: As an option, I mounted the MBF "off press" and it totally isolated the bullet feeder from any press/case feeder vibrations/fluctuations. Have had ZERO PROBLEMS with it mounted in this fashion.

One of the first things I picked up on when using the RL1100 was to NEVER stop the handle half-way through unless it's locked up and won't go any further! ALWAYS complete the stroke, then go back and remove the ammo from each station; fix the problem, then start over. Always disassemble any rounds that may have an issue or been a part of/involved in a stoppage!

I also remembered that I made a mark on the Primer Mag Shield showing the correct height of the Lever Arm Bracket. That gives me a quick reference point in my pre-load checklist.......... This shows the approximate height of my Lever Arm Bracket above the tool head at full up position. HTHs

Cuz: One of the first issues I had with my RL1100 was a failure of the primer slide assembly. After seeing SEVERAL new RL1100 users experiencing the same or similar issue, I wrote this post on FB with an attempt to help others: Have seen several posts from users having issues/problems with the RL1100 Primer Slide Indexing Assembly. Early on, during initial setup/operation, mine moved due to the #13001 Lever Arm Bracket being left too loose from the factory. It immediately started locking up the press when raising the toolhead. What I found out from inside Dillon, was that the bottom tip of the Slide Actuating Lever is supposed to be about the thickness of a dime (.053") off the floor of the primer slide channel when the handle is all the way down, with the Actuating Lever all the way towards the front. Just so it doesn't rub the channel floor during operation. This determines the height above the toolhead of the silver Lever Arm Bracket. Also, make sure the tip of the Lever sits in FRONT of the slide roll pin sleeve. For rotation of the silver Lever Arm Bracket, the Slide Actuating Lever should be parallel with the press which will place the Lever approximately middle ways of the roll pin sleeve. Example of mine after final adjustments. Of course, if the machine has been in use for some time, a thorough cleaning of the primer slide and channel area is a prerequisite! I also recommend a drop of blue loctite on the Lever Arm Bracket screw prior to final adjustment.

Darrell: Thanks for sharing all your data! Truly appreciated!

Intheshaw1: You bring up an excellent point! Since I've never loaded for rifle on a progressive, I'll defer any comments to the members here that have.

This gives me all the information I need as to how the powder measure is doing..........and I never have to deal with the mess from a powder check die!

Hope this pic clears up any confusion about the Station Numbers on the RL1100.......... Here's my setup with the MBF in Station 6. Like others have stated, that's the "usual" position for a MBF from my experience. HTHs

Not on your list, but just finished some load development for a CZ Shadow 2 Orange.............. HTHs

I have to say in all the years I've been using XL650s and now the RL1100 that has an endoscope showing every powder drop, I have NEVER had a squib or an over-charge! Of course, I'm very meticulous when setting up/maintaining my machines. Guess some would call me "anal".......... As Sarge and others have stated, these Dillon progressives yield the best results when we just "let them run"!

According to many of the seasoned veterans here, this load is right in the "sweet spot" for this combination! Zero 147g JHP, OAL=1.125" Temperature: 62* Pressure: 30.05 Bullet Weight: 147.0 Power Factor Average: 133 Power Factor Low: 130 Power Factor High: 134 Number of Shots: 10 Minimum: 891 Maximum: 917 Spread: 26 Average: 906 Standard Deviation: 8

After buying an A&D FX0120i that's accurate to 2 decimal places in GRAINS, I decided to pretty much follow Sarge and others advise by using the UniqueTek micrometer powder bar and checking calibration before each loading session. After dumping the first few throws, I do at least one 10-throw drop to check my average. Also using a bore scope where I can visually check each powder drop if necessary. Dillon RL1100. Recently developed a new loading for the CZ S2O using Zeros and N320. Narrowed down to 3 weights with .1 grain variance. Also checked on the Chrono. 3.5g was the winner!

Hey Mark! Your post also caught my attention; so I decided to check a box of Zero 147g JHPs that I had open from a loading session yesterday. Right now, with my efforts concentrated on a new CZ Shadow 2, I'm very conscious of my finished cartridge OALs since this is my first CZ and it definitely has a shorter chamber that I'm certainly not used to! Anyway, I pulled out 25 bullets from the box and measured each one randomly. Here's my shortest and longest. IMO, the exposed base may have something to do with PD's variance in bullet length. But, since I have not loaded/used any PDs, this is only a guess. I'm also thinking that if your using a quality seating die that seats off the ogive, then this difference in bullet length should not really affect the finished cartridge's final OAL. Is this a valid point?

I think you'll be very satisfied with the results! Not sure if you noticed from the old post I linked to above, but you can see in the mouth of the empty case furthest to the right, the type of bullet "seat" that the DAA powder funnel should create when adjusted properly:

Then if your current funnel is indeed .356 on the upper step, then I would order one of the PE oversized funnels from either PE themselves, or if they are closer to you, then Uniquetek! https://www.photoescapeinc.com/products/9htc-ptu.html https://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1736

ysrracer: Not sure how accurate your measurement is, or you may have an out of spec funnel, but the original DAA design normally yielded .3575" to .358" on the upper step. This became evident when I talked with Rick Koskela about the option of having a smaller upper step machined, to all but eliminate, the "sticking" most users have with the DAA/PE/UniqueTek funnels. BTW, Photo Escape is actually manufacturing the powder funnels per Rick's original blueprints. Also being marketed by Uniquetek. Here's a good read that I posted several years ago when I became a FIRM BELIEVER in the benefits of loading with the MBF powder funnel; especially with coated lead: https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/205711-fix-for-shaving-lead-bullets/ And, after a recent discussion with The Blue Bullets, I found out they manufacture/final size the 9mm 147g FP and RN bullets to .355". So, IMO, you should not be having any issues with those falling off the cases during processing. BTW: here's another tid-bit of info that was shared with me: Hope this helps!

Another vote for the PE/Uniqtek/DAA powder funnel! Will expand for any coated lead/fmj bullet I've tried. BTW: PE does offer oversized powder funnels...........https://www.photoescapeinc.com/products/9htc-ptu.html