HOGRIDER
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Posts posted by HOGRIDER
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9 hours ago, Slomo said:
I think it would be hard to provide a similar solution using the Dillon pins.
Back when I was running an RL1100, I discovered this simple trick to help with case stabilization between the retainer pins. Worked surprisingly well!
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Not sure if you've found this group of factory videos as I'm not sure they are published........but there's a ton of great info here:
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1 hour ago, BiknSwans said:
Thank you for the tip. I don't think any of the Mark 7 videos I've watched indicate that all the stations have a case loaded, but I have the older Evolution. I haven't had any issues, but I'll re-adjust my spring tension today as I have noticed cases spinning when the shell plate advances.
I love my Mark 7 Evolution, and can highly recommend their products and customer service.
I actually have some slight rotation of the cases during loading 9mm and have experienced zero issues with how I have my spring adjusted............
This video may help if your loading .223 or 9mm:
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27 minutes ago, Slomo said:
I know this forum has a fairly broad Mark 7 user base, so I'm hoping to find an answer to a fairly specific question:
Does the shell plate spring on the Apex 10 actively exert pressure on the case to secure it upright in the notch of the shell plate, or is there clearance between the spring and case? If the answer is caliber specific, I am specifically wondering about the 9mm setup.
The reason I am asking is that I have a gun that really beats up on brass, which causes the cases to tilt and catch the sizing die in my XL650. The gun leaves two protruding bumps on opposite sides of the primer pocket, and if one of the bumps is resting on the shell plate while the other bump is aligned with the open end of the horseshoe cutout, it causes the case to tilt towards the open end of the horseshoe cutout.
I've been looking to upgrade to an RL1100 or Apex 10, and watching some videos on the Apex 10 made me wonder if the case retention system might better address my problem than the Dillon retention buttons.
Thank you in advance.
On my Apex 10, I started out setting the spring by "feel" for loading 9mm since I had no experience on exactly how to set it. Wasn't long till I was experiencing issues at the Expander Station #5 as shown in the attached pic. Found out that I had the retaining spring set just a bit too tight.
Mark7's EXCELLENT Customer Service recommended loading all 10 stations with brass, then setting the spring to just touch the cases. This turned out to work perfectly once I understood the correct retention setting. Concerning your question above, I feel the spring is "touching" all cases without exerting any pressure on the cases.
I've also heard that when loading longer rifle cases such as .223, there are specific procedures for retention spring settings.
FWIW: I ran an RL1100 for right at 2 years then moved to the Apex 10 in manual mode; then added the Mark 7 Automated Drive along with certain sensors. IMO, these digital sensors with automation are worth their weight in gold! Especially when doing single pass loading!
Can HIGHLY RECOMMEND the Apex 10! And there are some great package prices being offered right now!
HTHs!
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I would definitely consider the Apex 10 full auto setup! The Sensors are worth every penny; plus I have been told that all new Apex 10s are shipping with their newly upgraded PRIMING SYSTEM!
Worth some phone calls/investigating with Customer Sales and Customer Service!
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23 hours ago, Bfrisk72 said:
What’s everyone running for competition ammo? I’ve been using my CO 147g blues recipe in the LOC now that I moved to LO but I’m wanting to get started on some testing to see what these guns like for bullet weight and OAL.
—BF
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21 minutes ago, NateTheSkate said:
I think this may be exactly what is happening, I can't believe I didn't think of this earlier.
I went over to my Dad's house today, he has a bunch of 1911's. Military and commercial. all the military ones passed the test, and all the commercial ones (which have all had work done by a 1911 smith up in Denver) passed the test EXCEPT the two that had EGW competition hammers.
I looked at the 2011 that is giving me trouble, and it too has an EGW competition hammer. I'm going to swap it out and see if that solves my "reset test" problem.
don't get me wrong, I LOVE EGW stuff, it's all top notch IMHO... but if i can solve this problem by swapping out the hammer, I will, if only to assuage my neuroses lol.
I'll give it a try and report back, thanks @shred!
Don't think the EGW hammers are causing your lack of pre-travel........
From the 1911 Forums article I linked above:
QuoteWhether the hammer falls from half cock is dependent on the hammer half cock style, captive or non-captive. And has nothing to do with pretravel. Except the reality that a 1911 with insufficient pretravel and a captive half cock may drop the hammer from half cock because the captive ledge is sitting on top of the sear face and can't go deeper due to lack of pretravel.
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@NateTheSkate I'm in the camp of shooters/competitors that feel a certain amount of pre-travel is definitely necessary in order to have one of the 1911/2011's safety features fully functional! And I agree with Bob Londrigan's assessment in his excellent Tuning and Maintenance publication:
https://www.brazoscustom.com/post/trigger-group-tuning-and-maintenance
Some competitors will disagree and feel that their fastest performances come from having little to no pre-travel. But if it disables or causes the half-cock notch to be inoperable, I don't want to be put in that situation. And to the best of my knowledge, this is one of the safety tests that USPSA performs at their upper/top level matches.
Having had a competition pistol develop hammer follow, thankfully during a practice session due to .008" pre-travel, is something I'll never have to deal with again!
My research has found that there are/have been many ways developed to create pre-travel when the use of a trigger with too long of a bow, a mis-formed (short) grip, or way out spec parts just don't allow an easy way to obtain that level needed for safe operation. An older post with some good info:
https://www.1911forum.com/threads/how-to-gain-pretravel-made-public.264739/
HTHs!
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2 hours ago, bootcamp said:
In my extensive research on this site, i've read that Brazos is EE. But who knows. For all we know these parts all come out of one factory and get rebranded throughout the industry.
Don't think your research of EE and EGW went deep enough...........
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19 hours ago, bootcamp said:
Been doing some research and it seems like both EGW and Extreme Engineering make good ignition kits for the 2011 platform.
Which would you guys prefer? Looking to get about a 2-2.5# crisp trigger pull. Maybe adjust the sear spring to sub 2# after a bit of seat time.
Having used several of both, I have found the Brazos' kit to be an excellent pre-tuned drop in kit "IF YOU HAVE A GOOD FRAME"!
https://www.1911store.com/Tuned-Trigger-Group-BCG-Brazos-Pro.aspx
Bob uses an EE hammer and custom fits an EGW long sear in a 2011 jig; and it flat out works as advertised!
QuoteThe “Brazos Pro” label denotes the best of the best. We apply this term to our group of trigger parts because each component meets the Brazos Custom standard for reliability and durability. This is not just a bag of parts. The hammer and sear have the angles stoned and fitted and the primary and secondary angles have been cut, and all engagement surfaces have been polished. The sear spring has been pre-bent to be close to a drop-in fit. The group includes the same parts Bob uses in the Brazos Pro line of custom guns:
Requires very little after-install tuning:
QuoteFor best results the sear spring may need to be adjusted and all safety checks will need to be performed.
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1 hour ago, Cuz said:
Thanks @HOGRIDER
where can I find the video referenced in your above post?
https://www.facebook.com/27206794/videos/1585194381996546/
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23 hours ago, Cuz said:
Thanks @shred
That doesn’t seem to be the problem. I removed the toolhead, so it’s just the piston moving up and down. With the auto drive turned off, I can operate it manually all the way up and down.
when I power up the tablet and motor, there is an amber light on the back of the motor that glows solid orange. When I push calibrate, the motor tries to rotate the crank but fails, and then the light flashes 7 times. I assume it’s an error code of some sort.
Just found this post, from 2023, on the (F**eB*ok) Mark 7 Reloaders Group by John:
QuoteI made this quick video that goes over some of the things I've noticed here in the group.1. Never operate with your tool head removed, but your shell plate installed. Your swage rod can damage your shell plate if the tool head isn't installed (same can happen to a Dillon 1050/1100)2. Never operate with your primer disc removed. Internal damage can occur with the guide pin if the disc is not installed.3. Any and all alignments or diagnostics should start with the machine fully assembled. Alignments in particular are reliant on other aspects to be truly aligned. If the machine isn't assembled you're going to get false impressions of what is wrong.HTHs!
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4 hours ago, Cuz said:
Thanks @ddc
That was one of the things I verified early on in troubleshooting. I've got them as far apart as they can go. I guess the good news is that I only waited 23 months after buying it to set it up, rather than 25 months which would put it out of warranty...
IIRC, @SSGJohnV John Vlieger said operating the Autodrive with the tool head removed was definitely not recommended! At least on the M7 machines!
That solid amber light with the 7 flashes are an error code(s)!
Operate manual to reinstall the tool head per Dillon. The get your Autodrive owner's manual and look at Page 68 to check the motor shaft collar connection. If things are still inop, contact CS first thing tomorrow morning and they will help you fix it over the phone!
Excellent Customer Service Techs!
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10 hours ago, LMS said:
And you can get it in red for the gucci factor! Just wondering if there was any reason you went with shrink wrap vs rubber? Seems like the rubber would stay softer (vs how shrink wrap gets hard after applying heat to it).
IIRC, the shrink wrap was ~0.5mm thick; so didn't add a lot to the OD of the roller.
It was on hand, and easily replaceable if needed. And the dual walls offered extra abrasion resistance........IMO.....
Done very well so far; and of course YMMV......
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8 minutes ago, Posvar said:
Did you disassemble it to get the heat shrink on? I use small strips of clear heavy duty packing tape and it’s great.
Yes, I removed the two rollers to get a perfect fit/trim on the tubing. IIRC, it was only 1 screw for each.
Easy mod!
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6 hours ago, ddc said:
I would like to know about a holster that does not, sooner or later, affect your finish.
The MRH is not immune.
Applying this to the rollers will solve that issue:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FPDBGYH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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3 hours ago, George16 said:
That’s why I go to my local Ace hardware to buy replacement parts like shoulder bolts, washers etc.
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18 hours ago, Cuz said:
If you ever had the opportunity to "browse" their catalogue, you could appreciate how well they do with their website! IIRC, the catalogue has ~3600 pages and looks like the pic attached.
QuoteMcMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 700,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
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10 minutes ago, Cuz said:
thanks, but @ddc, how do you find anything on the McMaster website? I tried looking up every number listed in the pic you provided and they all came up with nothing. And I had no idea just how many different kinds of hex head shoulder bolts there were. It made my head spin.
Any chance you can provide a link I can just click on and buy?Here's the Index Roller Shoulder bolts:
https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3528/91259A628
And here's the Index Lever Shoulder Bolt:
https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3527/91259A619
First bolt part # is: 91259A628
Second bolt part # is: 91259A619
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1 hour ago, Cuz said:
@ddc
Thanks for the info. You provided info on two sizes, do you know which one is the correct size for the RL1100 ?
Or do I need both of them?
Is one the Index Roller Bolt and the other the Index Lever Shoulder Bolt?
Just want to make sure I order the right ones.
Thanks,
Look on Page 60 of the RL1100 Manual, and it shows pics of the Index Lever bolt along with the Index Roller bolt.
I would definitely replace BOTH with PREMIUM replacements, as @ddc referenced above, while I was in there!
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9 minutes ago, Cuz said:
Thanks @HOGRIDER and @George16
I just installed my autodrive this weekend, and after processing just over 5,000 cases without a problem, I gave the press a good cleaning, and after reassembly, now I'm having problems getting the shellplate to rotate the last 1/4" to click into place. I tried various amounts of lube, and even no grease. I've tried loosing the shell plate holder from 1/8 turn, all the way back to a full turn, in 1/8 turn increments with the same result.
I don't get it, everything worked just fine for 5,000 cases before I cleaned the press. I'm sure it's probably something I'm doing, but I'm pretty sure everything is put back together correctly.
Getting frustrated. I called Mark 7, and they suggested loosening the shell plate. It really doesn't seem like an autodrive issue, but I'm about out of ideas.
Hi @Cuz
@George16 may be more help than me since he's still using an RL1100; but first thing I would do is operate the press in " manual" mode as outlined on Page 27 of the Owner's Manual. Rotating through the full stroke of the press should show if anything such as the index pall is not completing that last 1/4" of movement.
I also remember the possibility of a spring and/or shoulder bolt at the back of the press controlling the index lever.
Pressing "STOP" twice on the autodrive control tablet will also put the motor in neutral (while Autodrive is On) to allow manually actuating the press at the large sprocket.
HTHs and good luck finding your issue!
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3 hours ago, ultimase said:
Thank you. Given that the fwarms is currently out of stock, I'm going to go ahead and order the M die and give it a shot. Given amazon's excellant return policy hopefully if I'm making a mistake the fwarms expander will be in stock by then. If not this should be the most economical way to solve my problem. Fingers crossed.
The Lyman M die will be an excellent second choice!
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14 hours ago, ultimase said:
So the details are I'm loading on a 1050 with a Lee undersize die at the sizing station, the swage F sizer, dillon 1050 powder die, a 3d printed bullet feeder, redding bullet seating die and a lee factory crimp die. Using N320, 3.2 grains with blue bullets round nose 147 grain projectiles, using mixed range pick up. The brass has been deprimer and then wet tumbled and then sprayed with hornady one shot before putting them into the case feeder.
I load per case tube, ie I run batches of roughly 28 and then check my powder charge etc. Of these 28, I'll find roughly 4-5 rounds where it's very clear that I'm scraping the coating off the bullets.
I initially thought the undersize die might be causing it so I switched to a redding sizing die and then a dillon sizing die. Unfortunately it still happening. It's apparently immediately after seating the bullet to the correct OAL, so the factory crimp die does not appear to be part of the issue.
The brass is mixed range pickup, but I'd assume they'd be sized uniformly after the sizing die and then the swage station.
Perhaps the blue bullets coating might be inconsistient? so I measured them
.356
.357
.356
.355
.356
.357
.358
.356
.356
.357
.356
.356
.356
.356
.356
This is somewhat interesting as it looks like blue bullets call these .355 diameter rounds, but I'll admit I'm using calipers and I'm not that sure they're that good at measuring thousanths consistiently. I have another few thousand, but this might be worth considering that they aren't sized consistiently.
Ok so I measured the brass at each station
Dillon Sizing, internal .345
Swage .354
Bell .389 (this is huge I know, many people I talked to or found online mentioned that I should just try to bell a little more. At this point any more and I start cracking the case mouths fairly consistiently.
The 1050 sizes at the swage station, with the belling of the case really only opening the case mouth, but not extending very far into the case. From what I can tell this seems to case the parts of the bullet near the base to scrap the coating off. When I see the coating "wrinkled" at the case mouth after the factory crimp die, if I pull them there is evident coating scrapping below.
I know DAA has a different powder funnel for use with their bullet feeder, but I have a hard time believing that this would solve this issue as I believe this problem happens even if I was feeding the bullets by hand.
Thus far I've just been tolerating it, but it's driving me a bit nuts, and I'm starting to wonder if I'm the only one with this issue.
Anyone experience this or have any advice to try?
IMO:
As mentioned earlier, use the FW Arms expander at your swage station:
https://fwarms.com/product-category/reloading/expanding-dies/
And put the correct diameter PE funnel under the powder measure!
https://uniquetek.com/shop/ols/products/9mm38-htc-powder-funnel/v/T1736-02
Should all but eliminate your issues. And I agree with others, the Blue Bullets are excellent quality and consistency; but remember they are available in different diameters!
https://thebluebullets.com/special-order-356/
Automate S1050 or go full Mark7?
in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment
Posted
$6k for a Gen 1 Genesys; if in fact it releases at that same "early" pricing? Or the proven Apex 10, fully automated that now includes (I was told) the latest, updated billet Priming System for $5k? And the Sensors are on sale also! You can even finance with "0%" interest if needed?
IMO, the Genesys, for the moment, is NOT a proven upgrade! Plus the aftermarket is now offering Laser Detected Powder Sensor and Bullet Sensor for those needing that level of accuracy!