HOGRIDER
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Posts posted by HOGRIDER
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A 10 drop average, using VV N330, with a target weight of 4.3g.........
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2 hours ago, Baynewrady said:
If I ever figure it out I'll update this thread, though I'm getting close to throwing in the towel and accepting that N310 won't meter well through the FA measure. Don't really know what else I can try at this point.
Does anyone know of a powder measure that meters N310/VV powders well?
Not sure if you could operate a Dillon measure on the X10, but I adapted mine over to my Apex 10 and it works perfectly and yields excellent results!
I have ran VV N310, N320, N330, and N340 through my Dillon measures; and IMO, VV N300 series powders meter with excellent consistency.
My adaptation for the Apex 10.............
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On 11/5/2023 at 11:48 AM, Guitarmageddon said:
Hey folks, recently got a MPA DS9 hybrid and loving it. It has an aluminum well and works great, but I have the aluminum grip and I'm looking at adding some weight with a brass well. A bit of a 19/2011 noob. The atlas one is listed as being for cheely, will that work for MPA? Particularly this one:
https://atlasgunworks.com/product-details?id=2501564#product_detail
Also considering the limcat brass one but don't see it anywhere.
You may want to consider selling your aluminum grip and purchasing the MPA SS grip and competition magwell combo. My understanding is the MPA uses a proprietary grip similar to the Lone Star Innovations grip......
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17 minutes ago, JKP said:
I ran into this and posted on another forum. The response I received was that they came from loads that had no lead primers, and this was why they were crimped. Greenies saving us again.
@JKP
Yea, I've dealt with these type cases before; mainly they were Federal. But the cases were marked with NT (non-toxic) and easy to spot.
I'm not sure if these Winchester's have had "nt" type primers also; there's no way to tell from the headstamp markings. And many if these have no "crimp ring" or crimp markings I can see. Just failing the pocket gauge down into the pocket BELOW the rim....
Thanks for your reply!
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22 hours ago, RangerTrace said:
I installed a Brazos Custom ignition kit (most of it) in a Staccato P and dropped the trigger pull to a nice 2.75 pounds that lights CCI primers 100%. I used the hammer, strut and sear spring. I kept the stock sear and mainspring because the thumb safety wouldn't work with the Brazos sear. It's been a long time since I went to 1911 armorer's school. How much of the pull weight is sear spring vs. sear/hammer hook engagement?
Not too hard to measure sear/hammer interface pull weight leaving the sear spring out. Usually 6-8oz and is added in with disconnector pull weight to see how much needs to be on the sear leg to reach your final desired total weight.
Just IMO....
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Just now, Boomstick303 said:
I am much happier with the 25 yd zero. More confidence when shooting out past 25 yds as rare as it may be.
Agree!
The confidence of knowing where it'll hit at longer distances definitely helps!
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On 8/23/2023 at 10:47 AM, Racinready300ex said:
I now zero at 25 from a bench. The gun needs to be able to print 5 shot groups into a 2" circle.
At the advice of the "veteran" shooters in this thread, I decided to check/sight the LOC at 25 and 50 yards. Shooting bench rested using a Caldwell plastic pistol rest........
Black dot is 1"; added the small white plate for a bit of contrast at 50yds. Sun was bright today!
Couple of clicks in the windage, and I'm good to go!
Thanks to everyone that contributed!
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On 10/18/2023 at 10:45 AM, Chillywig said:
Well I just learned about a gun builder suing a barrel manufacture and distributer for selling barrels that were out of hardness spec and it was barrel stress/flex causing the slides to fail.
Seems Shay is providing some insight for those that do FB.........
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46 minutes ago, RangerTrace said:
I've adopted AGW's clean/lube philosophy. Clean every 2-3K. Lube before every range session or match.
Good advice!!!
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Search is your friend!
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23 hours ago, Phighfill said:
What would happen if you remove too much material from the bottom of the slide. Mine is somewhat loose, can that be fixed or do I need another slide?
https://www.1911forum.com/threads/proper-slide-to-frame-fitting.1001118/
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17 minutes ago, Revolution said:
I experimented with probably more dies than I should have but here is what I found. Mighty Armory dies decapped the smaller flash holes great by the dies DO NOT provide enough neck tension on the re-size so in my opinion they are worthless. Nothing like having your projectile sink into the case with no pressure whatsoever. I don't have the extra station to use a universal decapping die so the mighty armory die is nothing but a paper weight. Too bad because they really pop the primer out.
Hornady makes a smaller pin also but you can't get it to protrude enough to pop out every primer.
Redding was the best solution. I switched out to their .057 benchrest pins and they work great. Only thing is that you really have to tighten up the pin in the die or the norma case will pull it out.
Hope this helps!
I'm definitely partial to the Redding Pro Series dies! Put a new set of these on the Apex10, and getting excellent results!
https://www.accuratearmsandammo.com/product/58172-redding-nxgen-comp-pro-series-die-set-9mm-luger/
Even though I haven't loaded any of the Norma brass, I've encountered my fair share of undersized flash holes in the Win brass I'm using! Installed the .057" BR pin and that stopped my issue. Also had to take pliers and give the decapping button a good tightening!
I have never experienced bullet setback with the Redding dies; one of the reasons I've always preferred them! When I changed my setup recently, wanted to put a premium universal expander in Station 2 and decided on the FW Arms. Just didn't think to grab a couple of the .057" pins when I ordered the die...........
IMO, a 10 Station Press is a game changer for single-pass pistol reloading!
Thanks for your feedback!
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10 minutes ago, Nc1911 said:
I was using the .056 pins due to the Norma small flash holes in 9mm.
They worked fine but you can break a pin if your case isn’t fully inserted into the shell plate.
I decap before I load so pulling the handle fast sometimes results in a case not fully inserted.
I went back to the larger pins and throw the small flash hole brass in the recycle bucket.
@Nc1911 As I mentioned above I'm using fully/pre-processed brass that contain no primers. Plus, with the Apex 10's shell plate spring and case retention springs at Station 1, I haven't had an issue...yet....with partially inserted cases. The FW Arms decapper also has the auto case centering feature.
I was previously sizing/depriming at Station 2 with a Redding Pro Sizing die and .057" pin; and using another Lee sizing die (without decapping rod, of course) at Station 4 to stabilize priming.. Making a significant (IMO) change to the priming system, I decided to move the Redding sizer to Station 4 and use the FW Arms "universal" decapper at Station 2. During an initial loading/testing session, I was experiencing a significant increase in handle resistance during the up-stroke. Decided to test a dozen or so empty cases through the first 5 stations, and found out the unusual resistance was coming from the .077" decapping pin coming "up and out" of the small flash hole cases. Even though my brass is same headstamp/pre-processed/primer-less, I still want a decapper in Station 1 just in case something slips through. Never noticed the Win undersized flash holes with the Redding .057" bench rest pin!
Sorry to be so long winded; just wanted to share my unusual experiences.
Thanks for your reply!
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7 hours ago, Chillywig said:
I have a relatively low round count CK open gun I bought new in 2016. I shot it for a little more than a year, then got another open gun, then switched divisions and haven't used this one much. I know there was a time where a lot of slides were cracking and heard the problem described as a "bad bunch of slides." My gun has a early serial number 017X and was told this was built before the bad slides. Well I just learned about a gun builder suing a barrel manufacture and distributer for selling barrels that were out of hardness spec and it was barrel stress/flex causing the slides to fail. Not trying to bad mouth anyone but looking for info. I did some googling and could not find any details. Do I need to quit shooting this gun and have a new barrel fitted?
@Chillywig I agree with @36873687 that you can't believe everything you hear these days!
IIRC, CK was a joint venture of Matt Cheely and Bobby Keigans. If so, I feel confident you could contact Matt Cheely and discuss your concerns!
https://www.edgefirearmimports.com.au/ckarms/
IMO, shoot it till it "pukes" then do whatever it takes to fix it!
Great looking pistol!!!!
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I found out after setting up and loading with my new die, that a lot of my Win fully processed brass contain smaller than normal primer flash holes! The FWA die comes with a standard .077" pin along with 2 extras of the same size.
Didn't really want to order a 5-pack of the .056" tips: https://fwarms.com/shop/reloading/decapping-pins/package-of-5-replacement-small-flash-hole-tip-054-tip-diameter/
A fellow loader said he thought the Mighty Armory .057" pins were of the same threads/size/quality; and would be a direct replacement:
Anyone have first hand data on this? Or a couple of extra FWA pins they could part with?
Thanks!
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1 hour ago, jubi351 said:
Redding performs as well without all the additional steps.
^^^^^^^
Been using the Redding Pro Sizer for MANY years along with Hornady One Shot; and this combo has never let me down!
Highly recommended!
https://www.accuratearmsandammo.com/product/87172-redding-nxgen-carbide-sizing-die-9mm-luger/
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12 hours ago, jimbullet said:
agree, and I dont have anything against those that are self taught. You are correct, some do become proficient being self taught but unfortunately the specific person in our area I am referring to is rather far from being an expert from what I have seen with a very few that he has worked on.
I would likely go down the road of trying to install the flat trigger, pulling the tabs back, and might do some very minor polishing on the disco, will alter the flat trigger but not to the extent of shaving metal on the DVC itself. If I break the flat trigger, Im relaxed about it as I can drop in the original again and buy another flat trigger and definitely will not alter much the original parts of the DVC itself.
I will just have to muster up some courage again to disassemble the pistol and try to install one more time...
Thanks for all your help. It has given me a few things to consider and to look into.
IMO, Assemble the pistol with OEM trigger to establish a base line of what STI had for pre-travel; and everything worked. Then bend the tabs back to neutral on the Atlas and reassemble the entire pistol again. Use the pre-travel test by Brazos that I referenced above, then see EXACTLY how much additional travel (if any) you'll need. This will tell you if modding the disco will be enough.
Good luck with your adventure; and remember there are other flat triggers available for the STI that may produce the results you desire without modifying the OEM parts!
YOU may like one of these specifically listed for the STI/Staccato grip:
https://reddirt-usa.com/st-trigger/staccato-grip/
Another option that may interest you:
https://fusionfirearms.com/ultra-match-grade-2011-triggers-all-colors-designs
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24 minutes ago, jimbullet said:
there is one and I don't trust him as his a self taught so not really qualified.
IMO, there are definitely some excellent Gunsmiths that are "self taught" and/or never received any formal/apprentice training; especially in the 1911/2011 gun world!
IIRC, you have a quality 2011 DVC that should be an excellent platform. Before attempting any modifications to the fire control group, I would do a self assessment to determine if you have the mechanical ability to make changes; and a complete understanding of what to look for if something doesn't work as expected. Most important is to also understand and be able to execute ALL 1911/2011 safety tests that are applicable to your platform!
As I'm sure your aware, YouTube has a vast assortment of qualified AND self-taught individuals showing detailed videos of what's involved in changing/upgrading parts to the platform. Watch several; and then assess your ability/understanding to take on this highly complicated platform.
If your not 110% sure that you can complete the task correctly and safely, then as others have said allow a Qualified Gunsmith to get you the results you desire.
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All:
I appreciate the feed back! As far as a crimped pocket, yes the swager on the Apex10 will easily take care of that. What's become the issue is when my Ballistic Tools swage gauge (0.1725") fails to fully insert into the pocket! And even if I've swaged and/or deburred the mouth, and my gauge that's 0.0005" smaller than pocket minimum spec won't go but ~half way in, It's not something I can "feel" with the 10 station progressive press until there's a mess under/around the shellplate or primer disc assembly! A very trusted source shared this:
QuoteCrimped pockets are also not the only thing to look for. I have seen several manufactures produce non uniform, or offset primer pockets, or pockets that are just too small/tight. Swaging will only provide a funnel or bevel to the pocket, it will not stretch out, or otherwise correct a bad pocket.
At this point, and I'm not planning on doing this long term, I think just checking each piece of brass with the BT swage gauge would be the easiest way out. If it doesn't accept the gauge easily/completely, then toss it in a reject bin and sell it back to the processor!
BTW: I purchased 12k Federal Match SP primers about 7 years ago when they were at "normal" pricing.........
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Recently got into a box of pre-processed Win once fired brass that has several with tight primer pockets. Started having an unusual high number of crushed primers (Federal match); and after going through the press and taking care of some minor issues, it was suggested that I check for crimped and/or tight pockets.
Grabbed 1k and sat down with the primer pocket go/no-go gauge, and found about 10% that had tight and/or left-over crimped pockets! Each and every one are headstamped WIN 9mm LUGER. Of course I can deal with the crimps at swaging; but what are the options for tight pockets? Would they need a primer pocket uniformer? Or just toss them in the recycle bucket and move on. It's a PIA to have to pocket gauge the remaining 2k since there are no "visible" indicators that reveal abnormal pockets! And I've never used a pocket uniformer before!
And better options out there for dealing with this?
Thanks!
And a pic of what I consider a "left-over" crimp..........
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8 hours ago, jimbullet said:
in your experiences have you managed to get it to work without altering the bow itself?
Also, since the triggers pre-travel pull is linear to the sear and disconnector, one could additionally gain needed travel by perfecting the disconnector. EGW's disconnector paddles, for example, usually average ~.039". The spec is .035" -.005". So equalizing both to .030" would be acceptable.
IIRC, the (bottom) bow measurement of my Atlas/Geppert was ~1.725"......
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5 minutes ago, jimbullet said:
Oh that makes sense now. I put the tabs out ever so slightly to reduce pre travel slack take up but if the bow is longer, that would explain it a lot.
in your experiences have you managed to get it to work without altering the bow itself? I’ve been disassembling reassembling trying to figure it out and given up put the old trigger back and tested and hammer never followed on its original sti trigger
Have an 2011 style pistol that I wanted to put the Atlas/Geppert trigger in as I have a brand new one sitting in the spare parts bin. To get the pre-travel I wanted was going to require shorting the (front) sear legs. This will be an off-season project if I can't get a Red Dirt that will work.
Pic for example of sear leg machining. Pic is not mine!
BTW: a good video on pre-travel adjustment using the Red Dirt triggers:
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43 minutes ago, Runswithwood1 said:
That makes complete sense, my dealings are the atlas bows are generally longer than the bows I've worked with in the past. Sure wouldve been nice to know that helping a friend work on one a while back
Generally longer has been my experience also.........
Personally, I've always preferred the Atlas/Geppert or Cheely depending on the grip....If I had a Staccato, I would definitely go with the Red Dirt USA simply for ease of adjustment and custom shoe lengths.
Wanting a Labradar.........
in Chronograph Equipment & Techniques
Posted
Agreed!
And I'm guessing that Black Friday will see HUGH discounts!