schmeky

I have no secrets and will share virtually anything. If the moderators want to make the pic a "sticky", I have no objection. It's a relatively common issue that is easy to fix if you know how. E-mail: cajungunworks@gmail.com

With all due respect, not any longer.

Magsz, Justaute has given good advice. The break you are experiencing is not in the sear, it's the hammer hook geometry. My sear uses the stock factory angle to work with any CZ hammer properly. If the break is to light, and I understand what you are saying, then the hammer hook depth/geometry is to shallow. Your only reasonable recourse is to install a hammer more suited to your preference.

I wanted to comment on thompsoncustom post #10. The CGW disco will incorporate a much needed change in the disco's timing. I have to send out a pic several times a week showing folks how to fix their disco's. The CGW disco will have the DA timing advanced sufficiently to put an end to this problem, plus deliver the short SA reset. David Gunsmith

shortstop, Send me an e-mail. I have a pic of how to fix this, have sent it out probably a hundred times. Success rate is 100%. cajungunworks@gmail.com

Stuart, Yes, a simple disconnector timing issue, about 1-2 minutes to correct it once access to the disconnector is gained.

That's very obvious. The timing is off. Send me an e-mail and I'll send you a pic that will illustrate how to fix this. cajungunworks@gmail.com

Billdozer, My trigger pin relies on the trigger return spring to keep the pin in place. The TS, IIRC, has a different trigger return spring. To answer your question, the first trigger pins were made from 1214SS and heat treated. The newest trigger pins are made from 0-1 tool steel and subsequently heat treated; they are 3X stronger than the 1214SS pins. The ends of the newer 0-1 tool steel trigger pins are radiused, whereas the 1214SS pins had a .005" bevel; the radiused pins are easier to install. If you are having problems, please contact me personally by calling me at 318-372-9050, or using my e-mail: cajungunworks@gmail.com

Billdozer, Pin is not recommended for a TS. Designed for CZ's that use a .086" OD trigger pin. Nearing 2K trigger pins and have never had one back out. Cajun Gun Works

Good news. I have 1,000 Shadow Extended FP's on order, 375 have made it through heat treat and shipped out on 2-25, so I should have them back in stock within a few days. These will be Made in the USA to strict quality control standards. Thank you to all the great customers that have been patient with back orders on these FP's.

Lawboy, I have done this many times for many customers. The solution is very simple and cost effective. I supply an extended length hammer pivot retaining pin that is trimmed to "nearly" fit. You can do this on your own by simply obtaining some .086" pin stock. Starting OAL is around .265", work the length down until the sear cage installed in the frame will fit the new pin. Check to make sure the underside slide rib is not contacting the top of the sear cage. You can now get down to 2.5#'s or less and be OK. David Gunsmith CGW

smoothdraw, Extensive testing has shown the SP-01 will not accept a 2.500 FP due to the internal slide cut in the FP channel. The SP-01 is 2.490" or it will protrude from the breech face as cause feeding issues. The Shadow does accept a 2.500". Both FP's have worked well in comp only pistols using hammersprings as light as 8.5#'s with Federal primers only.

My Shadow pins should be 2.500" +/- .002", firing pin block equipped pins should be 2.490" +/- .002". Of course a Shadow won't fit a "B" type and vise versa. The pin will typically protrude from the breech with the hammer fully lowered. But these pins are typically only used in competition type pistols. I offer a 2.475" "B" type pin for carry and general use CZ's (which is not listed on my website).

EERW, 4 lbs DA is crazy, but I know you have acheived this. There are many of these in shooters CZ's and so far reports have been 100% positive.

1SOW, I know you know this, but check the actual notch in the slide rail. This notch can slowly round off over time. Here is a pic of a new CZ that would not lock the slide back. I had to recut the slide notch.

According to BATF guidelines, "only a qualified gunsmith can relocate a firearms serial number". Be careful.

Vermillion, The best way to shorten the frames dust cover is to have it milled. Only a qualified gunsmith can re-engrave the serial number if it is necessary. The frame on your pistol uses a modified CZ-97 frame. I have shorten frames and re-graved serial numbers. There are many smiths that can do this. Please remember you are also compromising the frames finish (your's looks to be nickel plated). So you must factor this in as well. You cannot re-nickel part of the frame, adding considerably to the cost unless you are willing to use any of the popular spray-n-bake finish's.

There are variables in trigger work that have to be considered that affect longevity and consistency: depth of the hammer hooks; metallurgy; and spring rates. A deep hammer hook cut will run consistently much longer than a very shallow cut. On a CZ, to achieve <3.0# SA trigger the hammer hooks will have as little as .004 engagement. Most experienced CZ shooters know the main wear is in the lower edge of the sear. This sharp lower edge will slowly round off, losing "around" .0015-002. Now you only have around .002 of engagement, and getting precariously close to the hammer falling with a bump or a slap. This was the basis for the Miossi hardened CZ sear (that is no longer available). Unfortunately, there is no way to measure the wear in the CZ sear. This is why, IMHO, Hennings offers a hardened sear for Tans (they are well known for having soft sears) and in the 1911 world, tool steel sears with an RC58-60 are the way to go. These hard parts arent necessary for a great trigger; they are required for longevity and consistency.

I'm not trying to break the rules, nor am I suggesting anyone do so. However, if the ends of this pin were finished in Gun Kote for instance, it would be difficult to know any difference.

Post removed. - Admin

Stuart, Feedback from users of the ERRK indicate down to a 13lb hammerspring provides reliable ignition in DA. However, anything <13lbs does require an extended firing pin. For defensive use, I have recommended a 15lb hammer spring.

Someone contacted me and informed me about this topic. I just want to say the ERRK was developed to position the trigger rearward to circumvent the long reach in DA. As a consequence of this design, the DA was made shorter and quicker. The concept behind this modification is not really the trigger, it's the disconnector. As justaute pointed out, his pistol is being modified for the short/quick DA only. His trigger will be completely original and unmodified. As a side note, all parts used by CGW are CZ OEM parts.