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About schmeky

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  1. The new Shadow 2 RRK is now available, part number 75850. The new Shadow 2 specific ultra-short reset disconnector is also now available, part number 1488-T5.
  2. When USPA finally approves this provisional ruling, CGW will offer the Reach Reduction Kit (RRK) for the Shadow 1 & 2. Like our current RRK's, the trigger will be relocated with the hammer down 5 mm's, or nearly a 1/4 of an inch. This is a tremendous change from stock. Since the CGW RRK is fully adjustable, it will allow each specific CZ to attain it's maximum relocation of the trigger. Plus, our USA Made version of the Old Style 85C trigger in stainless steel is preferred by most CZ shooters. A big plus not mentioned on the CGW RRK is the fact that there is virtually no take up in the DA. When you apply pressure on the trigger with the hammer down, the DA begins moving almost immediately. The RRK also shortens the DA timing, reducing the lock time in DA about 15%, so the full DA cycle is accomplished quicker. As we understand it, this is one of the more salient reasons CZ shooters have pushed the sanctioning bodies to adopt the RRK.
  3. For those having issues with the TRS, I would suggest you temper/anneal the spring. Thoroughly degrease the spring, pre-heat an oven to 400 degrees (might want to wait for the little lady to go shopping one day) and put the spring in the oven for 25 minutes. Remove and allow it to air cool. This has been shown to extend the life of springs.
  4. schmeky

    P-09 Tuning Info

    An FYI, when our new website launches this Friday 9-18, we will have a slew of items not on our current updated website. We have a new part number - 51820 that consists of 2 sear springs for the P-07/09. One is an .018" wire diameter, the other is .020". The stock wire diameter is .016". We sent zhunter the .020". Sounds like the .018" would dial in your SA. Send me an e-mail and I'll fix you up.
  5. schmeky

    P-09 Tuning Info

    To get a short reset, the trigger in SA will release closer to the back of the trigger guard, especially if you retain a stock hammer or even the CZ-UB hammer. The way to circumvent this to a degree is with shorter hammer hooks = release of the sear/hammer hooks sooner = trigger further forward. It's a balancing act with the P-09, when we developed the system for the P-09, there was no CZ-UB hammer, and the OEM hammer simply could not be "cut" and subsequently retain acceptable system timing.
  6. schmeky

    P-09 Tuning Info

    What we have observed in our shop on the CZC/CZ-UB is the hammer hooks are taller than the CGW 91000 performance hammer. The CGW Short Reset System for the P-09 is designed to work with a very short hammer hook height, in this case our 91000, so you get that 1911 or near 1911 like break we all love. If your P-09 will not work with the CZC/CZ-UB hammer, the problem is most likely the hammer hook height. It's not that difficult to carefully lower the hooks on this hammer. I am confident Stuart at CZC, or CGW can help if needed.
  7. Tan frames are heat treated, as are our floating trigger pins, therefore there is no discernible wear as a long as the fit is proper. Our pins have a .002" +/- clearance in the CZ, and the same in the Canik. This is in reality .001" per side on the pins radius. This is why I asked what the Tan's frame pin bore measures. We don't advertise our pins for use in the Tan's, but I have learned most of the forum members here are a lot sharper than I. I respect and appreciate their input.
  8. SISIG, The pins don't work they way you interpret. The center narrowed center section is occupied by the trigger return spring, keeping the pin positioned so the trigger only runs on the larger OD.
  9. Himurax13, That's interesting. Do all the Tan's use the same trigger pin diameter? Our Canik pin (PN: 30600) is .098" OD and the TR-PIN for the CZ is .086". Can anyone tell me if there are other sizes, and if so, what? Best method is to use a precision pin gauge(s) to measure the frames pin bore.
  10. schmeky

    Trigger not resetting

    All you have to do is call Tech Support at CGW. It's that easy.
  11. I hesitate to chime in. The #34 spring is the issue as others have stated. However, I have learned the hard way, Loctite on the #35 screw may not be the best method. If the head of the screw ever "wallows" out, and it does, and has, and you have machine the head off the screw, if there is no Loctite, the remaining post will screw out with no issue. But, if you run into this scenario, and the threads are loctited, it's going to take some precision, and very expensive machining to get the post out. Just sayin'. Ask me how I know.
  12. Could you please explain why this is so?
  13. Dutchman 195, Pistols aren't perfect and neither are the folks that build them. We do spend time with the #34 spring ensuring it has proper tension before it leaves the shop. However, on occasion we have seen these springs take a set after some use. We will be glad to help, just as we tried to do on the phone. Seasoned CZ shooters know the ins and outs, as some have pointed out. If you are going to compete, regardless of the brand of pistol, you will need to learn the platforms requirements. Everyone here will help, just as we will.
  14. schmeky

    Firing Pin Observation

    We have observed something different with "some" Shadows. We have sold thousands of our FP springs (RP-TRS) alone for Shadows and installed on our firing pins with no issues. Lately, we have had a few complaints just like the OP has posted. So we now have a new spring just for the Shadow, our part number 97041 that will be installed on all new 85/Shadow firing pins. We have built many Shadows this year and none have displayed the issue in this thread, all have used our tried and true RP-FPS firing pin spring. So it appears there are some variations in some Shadow slides in the firing pin bore.
  15. When we designed the floating pin, we had to make it work with everything, alloy frames, steel frames, stock TRS (wider) and reduced power TRS (narrower). The pin "floats" and finds it's own center. With several thousand of those in use, we have never had a single one "walk" out when installed in the correct model CZ; it simply can't. Never use Loctite, this will stop it from rotating; the tool steel pins length creates a generous bearing surface area within the pin bore of the frame.
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