rwmagnus

Most competitors use the single moonclip holders vs the double stack style. Log on to Dillon's website as they sell most of the stuff you will need. http://dillonprecision.com/template/p.cfm?...52&min=0&dyn=1& Another is Beckham Product Desigh for the RIMZ plastic moonclips advantage is no tools are requires to load and unload. http://www.beckhamdesign.com/index.html another site is TK Custom, they have the double stack holders. https://tp-commerce.techpro.com/moonclips/s...mith+%26+Wesson I'm sure others will provide suggestions as well. Congrats on the 625!

Totally agree, preping up the trigger oveer a no shoot is asking for trouble in a match. When the action starts and the pressure is on it doesn't take much to let that shot go. It's kinda hard to turn it on and off during a stage but there are times the trigger prep works to your advantage and then there are the other times, LOL. Hate to admit it but last night was one of those other times. Shooting clean would have been better than pushing the envelope and needing an extra reload.

My expierences have been when I "stage" (prep the trigger) it speeds up my times. I don't like the term "staging" as I understand it to be taking up the trigger to the single action point, pausing then releasing the shot. Rather what I believe is being discussed is preping the trigger (taking up half the split time) or better yet keeping the cylinder moving while comming into the target. As already stated your finger is never placed on the trigger while in the holster during the draw. There should never be an accidental or holster discharge of the weapon. I start the trigger pull after the gun clears the holster and the weak hand gets it's grip. There is plenty of time to take up the trigger during the forward press to the target. I just wish I was better at it. From time to time I find my transition and trigger prep get out of time and I release the shot when the sights weren't right. Shortly thereafter I find myself acquiring a new target with a dead gun (no trigger prep), old habits die hard! As others have state practice it both ways to see which provides better results or feels more comfortable.

S&W625 or 610 seem to dominate the IDPA matches. For IPSC/ICORE they are popular but other models come into play as well. 625 IMO has more advantages. 1. Better bullet selection. 2. 45ACP is about as perfect as it gets for reloading. RN bullets really help. 3. 4" or 5" bbl is standard. IDPA requires 4" bbl. 625 was king and may still be but the 610 is moving in on it's territory. Either model it's hard to go wrong. My preference is the round, 45ACP is king in by book so the 625 was a natural for me. Most of my friends shoot the 610 however. On mine I smoothed up the trigger, Miculek grips, white outline rear sight, gold bead front sight, RIMZ moonclips and you're in business. Like h4444 said it's all about the reloading/planning you're stage.

Congrats. One sweet pistol, one sweet price. Have a blast with it. My next one may be a 5"er also. Try the RIMZ plastic moonclips for competition or target practice.

After 10 attempts .26 was the best I could do. Now did you specify if it was with or with out a cover garment? edit: Okay I couldn't stop went back and changed the color to red and got a .251. I'll stop there!

Many years ago I had an FFL and took delivery of firearms at my office. One day I received a very nice 20ga O/U that I had just assembled and swung on point just as a new employee I was training entered my office. I still think he went to the head to change those drawers, LOL. I hope you don't get much traffic in your office during dry fire practice. Back then the work place was much less politically correct and everyone knew about my firearms interest (almost everyone!). Oh yea my dry practice is with a revolver so double taps etc is less of a problem.

I agree on the 5". I shoot the 4" for IDPA but am considering a 5" for ICORE and IPSC. The extra length in the sights is nice for longer shots. Love the 45ACP for reloading and BIG holes in the taget.

Matt, This is pretty cool. Just happened to have the LCD projector hooked up and made for some interesting dry practice. Next I'd love to see a stage set up and I could practice cover, swingers, movers, popers & no shoots in my living room! Keep it revolver firendly, LOL.

All the timers listed are pretty good. I own a CED 6000 and now a Pocket Pro. After expierencing a warranty repair problem with CED I picked up the Pocket Pro. I like the larger numbers on the read out plus the unit is alittle more compact. For dry fire practice I just put duck tape over the speaker and it muffles the sound nicely. I prefer a smaller size timer to practice with but as I said all those your considering will work fine. Most the clubs I shoot at use one of these two timers with the Pocket Pro being more popular.

"Shooting quickly is good, but shooting good points quickly is better...and a sure winner. Hope that made sense." LOL yea I guess it's just late enough that it does make sense. I know accuracy is what shooting is all about, w/o hitting the target it isn't much fun. Guess I'm getting to that stage where I feel giving up a few more points for a better time will improve my position in the match. Comming from bullseye competition to IDPA was a big move, one I really enjoyed. Shooting accurately is easier than shooting fast for me, yet everyone says speed will come. And what Flex said earlier (which I agree with) drives home good points as well. Better efficiency of movement and stage execution IMO increases speed. I'm still abit too new at this style of competition but I'm making progress pretty quickly. Switching to a revolver after 25 years of 1911 expierence has thrown a monkey wrench into the frey as well. I really gotta hand it to the folks, here as well as, the participants in these competitions for a "helping hand" isn't far away.

Flex I hear what you're saying but I am still trying to figure out the speed thing vs accuracy. Recently I shot a practice IDPA match results below. Of all the shooters I had the least points down and among the revolver shooters I performed well but going faster would have helped. I know the obvious MA & SS shooters are two different worlds. BTW for reference CDP/EX 61.95 (16) won the match. SSR/MA 1 Curt 62.66 (12) 20.02 (2) 18.97 (7) 12.75 (1) 10.9(2 ) SSR/SS 1 Ralph 73.25 (7) 28.9 (0) 20.61 (4) 14.31 (3) 9.43 (0) SSR/MM 1 Chuck 77.94 (11) 25.37 (4) 21.58 (3) 18.34 (3) 12.65 (1) Those of you more expierenced at this issue I sure would like to hear your thoughts. Curt 56.66 raw time (62.66 really was 62.66 - 6 = 56.66) Ralph 69.75 raw time (73.25 really was 73.25 - 7 = 69.75) Difference 13.09 seconds So 13.09 / 69.75 = 18.8%, I really needed to pick up the pace by about 19% to beat him. Am I on the right track evaluating this? What I'm starting to see is speed is more important than accuracy. I'm not implying missing targets but a down 1 or down 3 here and there isn't a killer. The flip side to what is being said here is if you shoot down zero (all A's) you're shooting to slow. I know in the above match several times I found myself not preping the trigger and keeping the cylinder moving along with holding the shot for just that split second after seeing what I needed to from the sights to let the shot go. Guess it's time to go back and re-read "Practical Shooting". Sorry in advance to ask a revolver based example here (LOL), but the real issue is speed vs accuracy.

FYI just chroned S&W610, 40cal, 4"bbl today. Measured (3) 6 round test groups. While not factory ammo it is a favorite reload. Hope it helps. Load data: 4.0 gr TiteGroup 155 gr bullet Avg 818fps = 125.4pf Avg 821fps = 126.8pf Avg 816fps = 127.1pf Next tested same load data above with 165gr bullet. 6 rounds fired. Avg 814fps = 134.5pf

$69.95 is that a good price for the Blade-Tech? I only know of one source to buy it (www.moonclips.com). Also do the twin stack full moon clip holders work well?

Just wondering what you wheel gunners use for IDPA and guessing it would be okay for IPSC as well. I know Blade-Tec makes one that looks pretty good but I thought you guys could help out on the subject. Thanks.

vincent, Many thanks just what I was looking for.

I have been looking for a source providing reduced size (perhaps 1/3) IDPA targets for dry fire and/or shooting with an airsoft pistol. I'd rather buy them than spend the time drafting one on a software program which is a pretty good alternative that another member suggested here. Anybody have a source? Thanks.

Okay guys since we've hammered technique, just how are you using a timmer for your dry fire reload practice? I usually set a par time and go from there but am wondering if there is another way.

Flex This is an area I'm working on in dry fire practice currently. Your 4th option above is what works best. The gun must come down enough for you to see whats going on. As Oz says you push back out to acquire the sights for the next shot. W/o bringing the gun down you loose some leverage on the reload and if anything goes wrong your instinctive next move will to bring the gun down and back towards you anyway. Matt's DVD's V4 & V5 covered the reloads nicely. BTW far be it from me to be the resident expert!

Ron, Thanks there is some great stuff in that thread!

EricW Great idea I'll second that nomination. Seeing the strategy from an accomplished shooter would be awesome.

Yep mucho practice is needed but I'm learning alot along the way and the fun factor is right up there. Thanks for the tips.

Joe D., No PM in the box, just the original. Jake, I understand what you're saying and agree to an extent. Just pulling the trigger into a berm I'm still not fast enough. Might be a tension thing. Dry fire practice can speed up alot of thingslike the draw (against a par time) and laterial target acquisition.

Nick, You nailed it about getting the sight picture perfect and killing my speed. Old habits die hard. My point shooting is pretty good however. Target acquisition is still a problem but I'm still pretty new at at. I have a tendency to move the gun and look for the next target vs move your eyes or head and snap the gun into the target. Sometimes knowing what to do is different than doing it. Seems like I do better at the longer stages cause the speed guys slow down here but the 5-10yarders are killing me.

I am new to IDPA with a background of Bullseyse competition. Having said that, I am deep into the data gathering of this shoot and move or engage multiple targets in a nano-second, LOL. I shoot CPD division and have about 3 months experience in IDPA. My first qualifier is this Saturday. BTW yes I have Brian’s Book and Matt’s videos. So here's my question. At what yardage do you go from a Type 2 sighting (looking thru the sights to the target) to Type 3 (focusing from targets to sights back)? I'm still having a hard time shooting faster. Accuracy isn't a problem but speed is. I basically need improvement in all areas but fundamentally understanding how to acquire the target faster and getting the shot off would be nice. Not sure I've articulated the problem well. IMO I get too hung up on focusing on the front sight which slows my target acquisition (is that possible?). Then I seem to transition from target to front sight seeking perfection rather than just anything in the -0 circle. I see guys logging 5-8 seconds for double taps in 4 targets at 5yds and I'm in the 11 second range, (ouch). In Bullseye we had forever and a day to get everything just right before letting go the shot. I seem to get stuck in a Type 4 focus (stay with the front sight until it lifts) quite abit Thanks in advance for any help. I've read alot of good info here and it has helped. Don't get me wrong for a newbie in IDPA I'm making some fast progress.