AFDavis11

Ok, I don't think I can describe all the things that are wrong but so far I've gotten 3 more bullets in the last hour by tearing out pieces that weren't in right and reinstalling. So far the entire priming system is still hosed, powder drops through the shell do to the lack of a primer (is there a loading method around a broken priming system?). The cycling plate goes too far on the 3rd stage (does that mean it needs to be "tuned"?). And, the Strong mount bolts don't line up correctly and therefore the loader leans forward. A dramatic problem I've discovered and may be contributing to the primer feeding problems. Yuck! I think I'll wait for a few replys because I don't want to have a 4 hour conversation with the Tech guys. I think I'll try to realign the strong mount or remove it completly. Luckily I do have a blow torch!

Wow! Ok, got myself a SDB. I've managed to load one round in five hours. Ranks up there with the worst monetary decision of my life. Not only did it arrive already broken but I suppose I need to rebuild it from scratch and send new engineering diagrams to help them out. Should I just chuck it or keep working on it for a few months. Is this stuff kinda common? I don't really have time to dork around, should I just buy any other brand? Maybe a 550? The tech guy was so unsurprised that mine arrived broken that he didn't even bat an eye, just said "Yea, a replacement part is already included" So here is an unusual question. I'd like to buy a progressive reloader THAT ACTUALLY WORKS! Any suggestions? I guess I'm just stuck searching the internet for 1000 reasons the SDB doesn't work and hope for the best, in the meant time I'm out of the shooting sports and into Engineering 101.

OK, well I"m obviously doing something wrong. I've got a trigger pull in under the 3 pound range and am getting only 3 inches of fly on the pencil trick. But I'm getting good primer ignition. So I'll just stick with what I've got, unless you guys were just pulling my leg, I'm getting no where near the distance you guys were talking about. You guys were talking about bobbed hammers right, not that factory stuff?

I prefer both. I want the top prize to go to the top finisher. Let it be a gun everytime or whatever. I also want a raffle prize, doesn't have to be big just something. Ten moonclips or a box of ammo would hardly be prohibitive and I could be one of 10 other guys eligible. Even a T-shirt would be great. If I win once a year I've got something to look forward to and if I see the top guy getting a new gun I'll be there too, cuz someday I might be the top guy. You could have just two prizes, a new gun for overall winner and a bag of candy for the ultimate loser, and I'd show up to compete for both.

What happens then? How loud is the report?

I can live with that . . . The 10 and 30 percent variance is an interesting cut off. I don't understand why it costs more to compare revolver shooters to each other, but thats ok. I've seen Rudy shoot a few times and I thought he was using a machine pistol. I can do without that.

Is this why I see so few Revolver GMs and M Class shooters?

I'm looking for a reasonably reliable hammer throw test. If I use a pencil how high should the pencil shoot up on a lightened trigger pull if I pull the trigger? Just trying to find a way to get the hammer throw close before heading to the range. Thanx for any comments. Oh, sorry, I forgot to mention its for Federal Primers. Yea, and made C class today!

I have some interest in attending. Can I ask for clarification first before I invite my friend, a first time competitor. Do you need one match under your belt in order to be in the revolver squad or does the shoot not allow newbies at all?

Thanx guys, Still working on the load. I'm perplexed by reloading the .45 ACP. About one round in 10 fails to seat correctly into the cylinder. It goes 9/10s of the way into the cylinder and starts binding up. I've tried a few changes to OAL but can't seem to fix the problem for all the rounds. 90% success on reloads is ok, but....I must be missing a step somewhere. I do appreciate all the advice..thanx again.

Gentlemen, and Ladies, I'd like your forgiveness first on two counts. I have searched the forum but not come up with the answer I am looking for and also I have not posted in a few years. I am looking to get back into revolver competition (I have been in Production and took most of last year off). I have a 4 inch 625, tuned it, and molded down a rubber grip for use. After having fired a few test rounds I have discovered, either through age or too much time in Production Division, that I am very recoil sensitive. I would like two recommendations if possible. One, on a simple factory round which I might use that has a little less recoil than my current 230 grain ball and two, on perhaps a reduction in the powder charge I might use for a reload. I use a 230 grain ball over 7 grains of SR 4756 if I recall correctly. I'm a hack at reloading though and would prefer factory (and tuned the trigger pull to accept any primer). I attempted to buy a lighter bullet and found it seemed to kick more but it was a defensive load not a regular bullet. MY first instinct was to try 5 grains of powder but I wanted to ask first for safety reasons and also I am concerned about making Major as I do not have a Chrono. I would be willing to shoot minor if needed. Any general recommendations would be welcome but please keep in mind I am not a reloading expert at all and may not be familiar with the gargon used on this forum currently. Thanx in advance for any suggestions and I apologize if this is a dumb question...

You didn't ask him to sign that screw?

Buy it fast!

Thanx, Don't really know if I'm talking about Rudy but that probably explains what I saw (an Open revolver and the scores posted under Revolver), and I remember that stage I'm sure the XD-9 is legal, and I'm going to assume that chambering a round is the proper way to start. I think my question was more about the rule itself. Lets focus on the Glock for a sec, the hammer (according to the rules) must be down. So is the rule a little off for "safe action" or am I incorrect in thinking that the Glock's hammer is partially cocked by the action of the slide? I don't think it's really a big deal, just trying to learn about the rules and guns. Tim, thanx for the info...that was a great match and both those guys are fast with their revolvers. Thanx for setting me straight, once I get my class in Production I will try and bring out my revolver and learn a whole lot from both those guys.

I shoot in Production right now... rule 8.1.2.2 of the 2001 rulebook says"...safe action"- chamber loaded, hammer fully down or decocked" as the ready condition I know on my XD it is fully "up" and cocked... I thought on a Glock it was partially "up" and partially cocked am I missing something? If I rack the slide and chamber I should be in "ready" position right??? did the new rulebook change this? Second question: I am interested in shooting revolver again, at one club I go to there are other revolver shooters but one of them has an aimpoint sighting system and a compensated gun...he handily wins in the revolver Division. I thought if I had all that stuff I would handily lose the Open Division. Am I wrong?

For me its the stress... I stress over the sight picture, the impending recoil, the concern for the shot that will either hit or miss, all the worries in my life that have built up to thinking I may fail, the trigger pull, breathing, and then..... THE RELEASE....a huge BANG!!! and as I relax again I realize with each pull of the trigger that the essence of my performance is based on emptying my mind, relaxing, and letting go of ALL my fears in life...

A trip to the library can also save you alot of money on loading data books/information

Gee, and I thought we were gonna spend the whole winter nipping at each other about eliminating this Division and that Division/Class. :-) This actually sounds kinda fun.

Yes, I've seen Jerry do it alot on his video. Since I'm with you on checking all the moonclips before a match I never bothered checking once I was on the line. I've always felt some binding when I closed the cylinder before the match and just assumed those weren't going to work. I'll have to try that. I would think at an IDPA match you might get away with a cylinder spin a little easier than several hammer retractions and cylinder "adjustments" I've had lots of these problems with revolvers at a match. I mean what really is the solution? How do you explain to 65 autoloader competitors that what your doing with your ancient firearm that they have never seen before is safe? Perhaps you should suggest to the 1911 guys that they have to "load and make ready without their hammer moving too" ????

Why wouldn't the cylinder move freely? Can't you feel any binding when you close the cylinder? Seems like an odd habit, unsafe? Seems a little unsafe to me. Never seen that prep before, so what do you do when it doesn't move "freely?" Pretty unlikely to go off if your finger is out of the trigger guard though huh? Have you ever decided you didn't like the situation and reloaded with a different moonclip?

autoloaders... seriously, love them for competition but strapping one on concealed next to me gives me the whoolies....ahhhhhh shivering just thinking about it. :-)

Own any revolvers?

Hey I think that would be fun to watch, but I'm not sure I would really call that competition. More like just getting my clock cleaned. Its still not really all that worthwhile. I actually have bought several guns now so I can try and find a club in Virginia to shoot at and compete in whatever Division has the most people competing in it. I want to have my clock cleaned by the good guys and have some guys I might someday catch and maybe even beat one guy too. But I will try and come out to see that guy. - bountyhunter, the Air Force issued the S&W Model 15 "Combat Masterpiece" with very low velocity .38 special rounds, I believe (in my opinion only) that the shootout that occured at the Nellis gate in about the 1985 time frame instigated a desire for a better weapon and led to them following the Army and its Beretta 9mm. That I believe was kinda pushed on them too but they were ready for a change at the time.

Not sure if you will care but I didn't want a Kydex type holster for my XD-9, spent the whole day looking for XD-9 holsters mostly because every Kydex hoster I had tried for the XD was WAAAAAY too capable of holding the gun in place. You could hang from the rafters with it. I think you should go with the adjustable one. But back to my story. I tried every single holster in the store and on the 185th holster I found a perfect fit. It is a Galco holster for the H&K .45.... If your buddy doesn't like Kydex or wants a really nice quality leather holster in the future it's another option, and he can save himself the day in a store :-)

Wakal, - Its too bad I didn't try harder to shoot revo against you. It would have been fun to have you clean my clock in SA. - I was thinking about the revo for Production too until I found out about the ammo position requirement and decided Production was out for revo. Not sure but I think they kept the ammo requirement for all but 2 of your reloads (behind the 3-9 line). I have to spend all my time trying to learn this bottom feeder stuff.