AFDavis11

No I haven't. I think this is partly because of my technique of whipping the gun up a little too far and using gravity as a guide to when the gun is pointed downward. Also I think an RO has much more issue with the barrel pointed upward when he can see it break 180 than when it is pointed down. He can't really see the exact barrel position from where he is standing. Just my opinion.

Yes Bucky I think that is the key...I also think it is important to understand that if I have difficulty doing it safely and choose not to do it then that should be ok with everyone else. I think I could just barely pull it off if the gun was on the 3-9 line and I always use the straight drop style holster. I am not as limber as most people, from age and alot of weight lifting and have years of LE experience behind me where we drew the weapon out in a way that put the muzzle in the "wrong" direction. I actually can not correctly index the weapon and draw correctly from a position I would consider to be "behind the 3-9" but hey... thats why you guys are good at this stuff. I haven't even begun to get into the fact that the magazines would be really hard for me to reach also. And I don't even really see the point of those rules anyway. So lets just say I don't want to compete in Production. :-) But can we agree that it is perfectly safe for everyone else and leave it at that. Again I will not be competing in Production class. It seems everyone does agree that I can use the XD in Lim 10. I'm still curious about Lim, how many rounds are allowed and how many do shooters average when they shoot Lim? Are there no restrictions except the size of the gun?

Exactly! This thread is about why I don't want to compete in Production. But I must be missing something because everybody else does it. Maybe I just roll my shoulder the wrong way??? I don't know!

WOE! Now thats a nifty idea! .40 mags ??? Mmmm strange how you don't pick up on the simplest of ideas. Mr. Gorilla, I can't exactly follow your logic because I simply don't really understand the rules to Production. I would likely wear the gun behind my 3-9 line with the barrel pointed toward my butt, the grip safety pointed up and away from me to my right. If I draw the gun it points directly at the ground about 10 feet behind me. Do people in Production keep the barrel pointed straight down in the holster and somehow pull it straight up? Or am I missing something. If I position the gun on the 3-9 line I would be OK. But behind it seems awkward. Doesn't really matter though. Lim and Lim 10 sound good to me. Lim would be really cool. How many rounds of 9mm would I need to shove into a .40 cal mag to be remotely competive in Limited???? Would 15 put me at an intense disadvantage? I think there are even more Lim shooters than Lim 10 most places...does this seem true? That sounds very exciting! Thanx, and I'll see what Production shooters do to understand it better. I still like to think I might win someday. :-) BTW I have spent 2 years competing in Revolver, which is why I'm so ignorant on all this...sorry bout that. We live in a very different world. :-)

Yes, Production class is out. Mainly because the holster position seems too unsafe to me. It seems too difficult to draw from a holster behind the 3-9 line on my belt and NOT point it behind me, breaking the 180. I'm usually pretty ignorant on these subjects until I study them but I won't do something I consider dumb and hazardous. I'm looking for the maximum number of participants to compete against. Lim or Lim 10 seem to be the right area. Comments? And I think minor will benefit my shooting more than anything else. I think the real point of this sport is putting rounds into the A ring, regardless of speed. Consider how silly it would look in an actual gunfight to run through it as fast as possible regardless of hits??????? Well sorry thats why I am competing. I want to stay true to the concept. To me running through a stage with C hits is just silly. OK so you win the competition...congrats. Also I have had so much trouble with reloading that I will probably just buy the ammo outright :-( So 9mm will be cheaper. The XD is the most reliable/accurate automatic I have ever shot. So I think I will be able to focus on the actual stage, which I think will really help me improve the most. I just hope the rules remain static until the Spring when I can start back up again. :-) Ofcourse if I get too frustrated with the scoring I'll put my Kimber back on. :-) But I think the point is to keep the sport pure. Anybody want this soapbox, I'm done with it. :-)

Thanx Buckey, now all I have to do is explain to everyone why I like shooting the XD. :-)

Thanx, yes I am under the impression that it is NOT allowed in Production. But the more I think about it I don't want to compete in Production anyway. I'm ok with minor. I'm out there for the challenge and will get a .40 later if I want to move up.

I was planning on shooting it in Production but I think that is out now. So before I spent all the money to get the extra gear I wanted to make sure it qualified. I was under the impression that Lim-10 needed to be a single action type trigger. I think I got that from all the competitors using that style because it is the best choice, competively speaking. I've never seen a Glock user in Lim-10 (that I noticed), most seem to go with Production. I've never paid enough attention I guess.

Can I use a Springfield XD-9 in Lim 10?

Yes, Bucky you are correct. I describe both methods in my post. When I say "I reload with the right hand" I am describing which hand puts the bullets into the gun. That is the way Jerry recommends. He holds the gun in his weak hand, and that is why I do it also. I practiced and timed myself for a month or so and found that method just slightly faster and just slightly more reliable. I do notice with the 625 though that holding the gun in the strong hand is pretty sweet too. I will be practicing alot this year as long as I can get a decent trigger pull working on my gun.

I find the strong hand reload as you describe (and what Jerry seems to prefer most of the time) to be best because as he says. "you have both hands working at the same time" one is grabbing ammo and one is clearing rounds. I will occasionally reload left handed. i.e. push the release with my thumb, push cylinder out with my left index finger, slam the ejection rod with the center of my left palm (a very powerful ejection compared to my injured left thumb doing it in a right hand reload) and reload with ammo with my left hand. I usually only do this motion if the moonclip is sitting very far over on the left side of my gunbelt and I think it will take me a fraction of a second longer for my right hand to get to it. I also keep the gun level with the ground when I do it this way. Sometimes I will reload this way also if my RO is being difficult about the typical barrel position of a revolver when you reload which is straight up. This ofcourse technically is breaking the 180, and you are disqualified. So if I get a warning about it I will revert the reload so the revolver always points straight down range, and not even slightly upward. I know you want to clear upburnt powder, but I don't want to be disqualified either.

I agree with Spook, the 686 is a good choice as long as you can find moonclips and moonclip holders. I also prefer the 625 but if you have the reloading gear and experience with the .38 super that is critical. Practice is important with a revolver. Practice and shooting will be cheaper with the .38 I think as well. Don't be surprised if you buy the 625 also later on. Revolver is pretty addictive. I think the L-frame is a good choice. I moved from the K-frame to the N frame 625 because I kept burning my finger on the barrel of the small K-frame, L-frame should be a nice compromise in size. Weight and balance are important with a revolver also, you'll likely be flipping it around alot reloading. So I suggest you find a source for all the extras first...holster, moonclips and holders. Then go with the 686. If you find it hard to get all that stuff because it's a new gun, go with the 625. Personally, in my opinion, if Spook says it, its gospel!

If I add Jerry's spring kit to a new 625 and use Federal primers will I get reliable ignition by itself or do I need to add the extended firing pin? I would like to avoid that as I have no idea on how to install it.