bkoenig

I have a 13lb mainspring, extended firing pin, and reduced power firing pin spring. The only thing I've had trouble setting off were some S&B small rifle primers I tried to use when primers were scarce. Every other brand of pistol and small rifle primer has worked 100%.

I have a Cajun Gun Works adjustable sear and a CZ Custom competition hammer, plus a 13lb mainspring in mine. The trigger is hugely improved from stock. Just a note, if you shoot USPSA Production the Cajun Gun Works hammer is not legal, but the CZ one is since it's a factory part. I also added sights from Cajun Gun works, so between the sights and the improved trigger the gun is definitely not the limiting factor in my scores.

My CMMG dedicated upper is rock solid. There are two tricks with the CMMG uppers - First, you need to polish the feed ramp that's built into the bolt assembly. Use a dremel with a felt polishing drum and some polishing compound. Hit it just long enough to shine it up and get rid of any machining marks. Second, it really helps to "buzz" the chamber ever 500 rounds or so. Take a .22 cleaning brush dipped in solvent, threaded onto a section of cleaning rod. Chuck that into a drill and insert into the chamber from the rear. Run it on medium speed for 10-15 seconds. This really seems to help with failure to go into battery. Mine is a 6.5" and is about as much fun as you can have with your pants on, especially with the can. For the first 500 rounds or so it had some stovepiping problems, but now it almost never jams as long as I avoid Remington bulk crap. It eats everything else - Blazer, Federal Bulk, subsonics, etc. I've had maybe 2 malfunctions in the last couple thousand rounds.

Your trigger group could also be loose in the receiver, causing the lifter to bind. Check to see if it has any side to side movement. You may need to shim it to tighten it up.

I have $50 to blow at Brownells and I need a new set of shotgun shell caddies to replace my homemade ones. All they have is the CCW ones, but I see they're set up for 3" and you have to add a spacer for 2 3/4". Does anyone know if that spacer causes any problems vs. something that was designed for 2 3/4" from the start?

Did your barrel start as a 24" or a 28"? It was actually a 26" Field model.

I have a 22" on my 930 with a Nordic +4. The extension is just slightly shorter than the barrel, maybe by 1/2".

I also reload strong hand, although I've been meaning to start working on weak hand. That alone makes it much easier for me to burn myself.

Does anyone run one? I have an aversion to hanging extra stuff off my guns unless it's really necessary, but last weekend it was close to 100 degrees at the match I attended. My 930 sat in the sun for about 30 minutes before I shot a fast hoser stage, and after dumping 21 rounds through it I burned the crap out of my hand when I accidentally touched the barrel. One of the other guys in my squad burned himself so bad that he blistered 3 fingers. I got smart on the next stage and kept the barrel covered with a gun sock until it was my turn, but now I'm seriously considering a heat shield. I did a little googling and found that there are some fiberglass ones available. They might not be as strong as a sheet metal one, but I bet they would soak up a lot less heat.

I think it will be fine with some cold blue. I just broke out the emory cloth again and polished it up.

I couldn't figure out why my 930 was getting progressively worse about stovepiping spent hulls. When I first got it it ran well, then it started stovepiping more often on light loads, and this weekend it even started doing it on high brass heavy hunting loads. I thought the gas port might be blocked so I tore it down and found the mag tube covered in rust under the handguard. What had happened was I had accidentally scratched up the exterior of the mag tube at one time. There was a shallow gouge in the exterior wall, but no dents protruding to the inside so I just took some emory cloth and smoothed out the burs so as to prevent it from hanging up the gas system. I oiled it well and always meant to refinish it but never got around to it. I guess the humidity and my general laziness caught up with me. I'm usually really good about gun maintenance but for some reason I hadn't taken the shotgun apart in several months. The surface was so rough that it had to have really been hanging up the gas system and preventing the bolt from cycling fast enough. I'll take it out this weekend to test it out but hopefully that's all it was. Time to go grab some cold blue from the store....

Looks really good. I also dovetailed a front sight into the rib of my 930, but it was a Hi-Viz meant for a 10/22. I also dovetailed the rear sight in there as well. Works great for slugs.

I didn't slot mine and it works fine.

I'm pretty new to the 3 gun scene, but in all the matches I've attended it seems like the vast majority of malfunctions were mag related. Buy quality mags and make sure they're reliable. You picked an excellent barrel. I have the same one and can't say enough good things about mine.

That's the exact same barrel I have and I love it. It's easily MOA capable. Last weekend was the first time I had benched it in a while and it was shooting right around 1" at 100 yards with a 4x scope. With more magnification I can shrink that quite a bit. Just a bit of advice - mine likes heavier bullets driven at high velocities. 75 grain Hornady OTM's right near max load is the ticket. 69 grain bullets open the groups up by about 25%. You made an excellent choice. Here's mine (top rifle):

Very cool, I'm glad to see another affordable autoloader that works for 3 gun. That should help bring more people into the sport.

I like my 18" WOA SPR barrel a lot. It's a little bit heavy but I think that helps me hold the rifle steadier. It's very accurate, too. I haven't spent a lot of time shooting it from the bench but 75 grain Hornady OTM's are right around 1 MOA. I'm sure with more tweaking I could get those groups a lot smaller but I haven't put in the load development time.

Send it to Guncat.

I think barrel length is less important that choosing the appropriate choke.

With that Polychoke I don't think a +4 extension would stick out very far. I had thought about getting one of those but decided to have my cut down barrel threaded for the factory chokes since I already had them.

If that's a +4 extension it must be a 20" barrel. My 22" is even with my Nordic +4.

That's what I use, too. They're the cheapest shells I can find, something like $20/100. They ran flawlessly last year through my 870, and this year my 930 works well with them also. I've only used Modified choke in each, and never had a problem knocking down steel.

I like them a lot. For shooting steel its very fast, and for me it makes a big difference with slugs. They're not ideal for clays, but I'm not good at clays anyway so that may be me. if someone wanted rifle sights I would probably suggest a clamp on set like the sluggers since they don't require permanent modification of the rib. I like to tinker with things so I did it the hard way.

I'm probably starting to annoy people with all my blathering on about my 930, but I'm really excited about it. I blame Benny, finding out he was working on it was one of the things that turned me on to this gun . I didn't cut a slot into my 930 lifter when I welded it up, and it's worked fine so far. I hadn't thought of using the slot to clear malfunctions though, I may have to reconsider. I've occasionally caused a double feed by farting around with the gun, and it's a pain to clear. I don't have a before picture, but here's an after picture of mine. It's not as nice of a job as what a pro like Benny would turn out but it works. For the stock one just imagine a half moon, dime sized cutout at the front:

Here's a writeup with pics on what I did to my 930 field model: http://nebraskafirearms.org/forum/index.php/topic,3466.0.html My mods are: Barrel shortened to 22" and rethreaded by Guncat. Nordic +4 tube Hi-Viz 10/22 front and rear sights Brownells oversized charging handle & safety Rear of forend shortened so it's even with the forend retaining clip Lifter welded Sides and front of loading port opened up Lightly polished trigger group I did all of the work myself with the exception of cutting & threading the barrel. A set of Williams clamp on slugger sights could easily be added instead of going to the trouble I did with the 10/22 sights. According to Benny Hill it's also not necessary to weld the lifter as long as the overhang at the front of the loading port is eliminated. I did both so I can't speak to that, but the difference in loading speed vs. the factory configuration is night and day. I think replaceable chokes are a must have, which makes the SPX impractical. At the local matches I attend I've seen quite a few guys have problems knocking over steel with an open cylinder choke. With a Modified choke I've never had a problem. I have less than $600 in mine, but I also got a killer deal on the gun itself.