lumpygravy

I have a Colt Ltwt. Commander that I purchased 2nd hand that has been Novaked. Not one of the full house packages, all work was ala carte: Novak sights Briley bushing barrel Ed Brown tactical thumb safety 30lpi frontstrap and msh Carry bevel Reliability Trigger job 3.5# Nice blued slide and black anodised frame I paid around $800 for it and this was maybe 20 years ago. The guy was hurting for cash, so even though it was spendy at the time, I think I got a nice deal. The work is top drawer and though I don't shoot it frequently, it has never failed to go bang. Coincidentally, I recently contacted Novak about doing their FBI package on this gun and they quoted about $2500 +/- because they were going to credit me for work already done and parts that I was going to supply. Though I've not personally bought anything, they seemed quite responive to my inquiries on the FBI package.

Working on it Jake...

I've seen one on consignment at a local (CA) gun store for > $700. It is similar to the one described except the finish on the one I saw looks to be pretty good. I suspect that it may come with the original 13rnd magazines which, in CA, may be a big reason for the high price.

But if the mag drops cleanly from the magwell, what more could be done to clear the area and prevent the collision of the entering new mag to the exiting old mag? I don't tilt the gun excessively which, if I did, I could understand could cause a delay of the old mag dropping clear. This only seems to happen to me during dry fire standing reloads. I think if I'm moving in addition to the mag exiting, I'm actully moving the position of the gun which reduces the chances of this happening.

Welcome and Thanks! It is sometimes easy to take for granted that your service and that of your colleagues is what makes it possible for those of us at home to enjoy and participate in this sport. Especially at this time of year, please accept my humble thanks and my best wishes for a safe return home.

Again, I'm not a lefty but... I just tried a dry fire reload (STI frame - mag button on left side for right handed shooter) with my left/weak hand. I hit the mag button with the inside of the first knuckle (closest to palm) of my index finger without having to shift my grip at all. How do lefties (who do not have a right side mag release) hit their mag release? I have relatively small hands and I think this may actually be an advantage for a lefty. I can see a lefty having to break/shift their grip to hit the mag release because the middle finger may be positioned high enough to create an obstruction for the index finger, especially so if the trigger guard is undercut. I think if I were a lefty, I'd remove the add-on mag button and run a standard mage release. Just thinking out loud... Edit: I just tried with the first knuckle of my middle finger and like that even better

In addition to the many good suggestions already posted, I'd suggest that you try your dry fire in slow motion or at least slow down the process maybe 20-30% so that you can focus on smoothly executing the entire action flawlessly. Then gradually increase your speed striving for accuracy and efficiency with your motions. Another suggestion: practice your dry fire reloads with your eyes closed or with a blindfold. As others have said, breaking your shooting grip to release the empty is not the end of the world. What's important is that you practice re-establishing your grip as soon as possible and complete the reload. With practice, you will be able to perform a speedy and efficient reload that won't slow you down. Some things to keep in mind: 1] keep the gun high in your line of sight 2] as you release the empty, tilt the gun until you can see the magwell opening 3] get the weak hand on the new mag quickly 4] grasp the new mag with your index finger along the length of the mag 5] "point" the new mag into the magwell and seat firmly If you're not already doing so, when you dry fire, load the mags with some dummy rounds for a more realistic exercise.

I see a recurring theme here: the good 'smiths have a lead time with many factors affecting the delivery of an ordered gun. Sounds a lot like a good general contractor. My guy is always busy and has a 3-4 month lead time to get me on his schedule. He has to deal with building inspectors, getting the supplies/materials, managing his crew, etc... He works a 6 day week and the better part of 12 hour days. I enjoy a certain amount of woodcraft, tinkering, home improvement and I do it out of both enjoyment and necessity. However, you could not pay me to do it for a living. I'd have a major problem meeting customer expectations.

Back on to the topic of waiting: A long time ago - like 14 years ago - I bought my first open gun from some outfit in SoCal who supplied guns built by Don Kehoe. As I recall, the wait was close to six months and at the time it felt like forever. Then to add insult to injury, when it arrived at my FFL, I STILL HAD TO WAIT another ten days!! I suspect that like any of our toys, if subjected to a wait of any length, it is always too long. It took six months to order and receive my car. Maybe six is a magic number for me.

1] Please don't do this while driving. 2] Per G-Man Bart's reply, this has drifted and I am going to stop now. Apologies to the OP for taking this down an unintended road.

Having just recently returned to shooting, I was not aware that Bar-Sto were now building guns. Will have to check them out. Thanks for the Dawson suggestion, but I have a question about JVD. I know he's in Southern CA so that addresses the in/out of California issue. My understanding is that I'd already have to possess a hi-cap frame so how would I be able to purchase an S_I from him? Does he have some kind of inexhaustible supply of frames? I thought hard about the intra family thing. I have inlaws that live in Nevada and conceivably, my BIL could buy the gun, gift it to his dad (who lives about 15 minutes away from me) and then I could PPT it off of his hands. I'm just not sure I'm willing to ask all parties to go through all of that. Maybe this will be a good dinner conversation topic for the next family get together. The BIL would be willing... He shoots occassionally. Thanks for your info on Bar-sto and Dawson.

Interesting topic. For those unfortunate enough to live in California (like me), there seem to be few legal avenues to buying a quality hi-cap open/limited blaster. At this point, the avenue that I've been advised to follow is the route where I purchase a "DOJ approved" model from a well known manufacturer and after receiving it (FFL/DROS), send it back for modifications. From earlier posts, I take it that I'll have anywhere from a 3 month to over a year (or more) wait for a gun that I will have to immediately send back for modifications to make it race ready. I wonder how long it'll take on the second trip. Is anyone else in CA, going about this in a different (but still legal) manner where they can get what they want in a reasonably timely manner? For the sake of arguement, I'd consider up to 6 months reasonably timely.

Thanks for your comments. I have two on the way, one for the Limited gun and one for the L-10. Booyah!

11.27.10 - 1st outdoor live fire practice session in 12 years - light rain. 1st objective: be safe 2nd objective: see the front sight Static line practice at 10 yds. not timed: 1] Draw, one shot 2] Draw, strong hand, one shot 3] Draw, weak hand, one shot 4] Draw, one shot, reload, one shot 5] Plate rack (6) one miss Practice stage: 13 paper, 3 steel = 145pts 1 paper at 15yds, all other >= 7 yds, several NS, no HC 1 port, multiple vision barriers, 1 left side barricade 1st pass without a walkthrough: ALWAYS GET A WALKTHROUGH blew by 3 papers 6 mikes, 3 procedurals for FTE 2nd pass after walkthrough: Shot clean 138pts @ 27.75 seconds = HF 4.97 Makeup shot on one steel No Mikes, NS or procedurals Comments: Movement felt jerky - stops/starts Overran first vb with first steel, resulting in miss/makeup Hits good Reload good Saw the front sight For next time: 1] Zero gun with new ammo 2] Multiple shots on one target 3] Stage planning (get the walkthrough)

Not sure if this topic should be here in Gun & Accessories or under Gunsmithing. Mods please move this if it is mis-categorized. Does anyone have the SVI FO front sight? It's the one with a machined and polished "dish" under the fiber. I believe the idea is that a reflective surface helps to illuminate the fiber. I'm coming from a .100" blade that I painted fluorescent green from before FO were more commonplace. I'm wondering if in real life, gunk and smutz get under the FO and result in a maintenance problem. I suppose a little degreaser, a toothbrush and compressed air will keep it clean if there is a build up. Any feedback on this unit or suggestions for your favored FO front sight are appreciated. Thanks.

I too have a Gunbuilder design in the works (and I can copy-n-paste with the best ): Front Slide Cut:30 lpi Guide Rod: Stainless Steel Panel Cut: No Radial Flute: None Rear Lightening: No Rear Slide Cut: 30 lpi Slide Material: Carbon Steel Slide Profile: Round Top Slide Lightening: No Stirrup Cut: No Top Rib: No Serrations Front Sight: Red Fiber Optic .100 wide x 1mm Rear Sight: Infinity® Rear Sight Absolute Target Zero AET Barrel Option: AET Barrel: Plain Barrel Barrel Length: 5 Barrel Style: Non-Bushing Style (Cone/Bull Barrel) Caliber: 40 S&W Compensator: No Compensator Trigger Base color: Red Trigger Bow: Titanium Trigger Insert Color: Red Trigger Insert Style: Curved Medium Triglide System: Yes Grip Material: Carbon Steel - 4140 Grip Size (Competition Hicap Only): Small Circumference Grip (1.250 Diameter) Grip Surface: Infinity SkaterTerrain® (IST) Metal Grip Mag Catch: Infinity® Left Side Checkered Magazine Release Button Metal Grip Magwell: Magwell Stainless Steel - Plain Metal Grip Mainspring Housing: Stainless Steel - Flat Silver Trigger Guard - New: Under Cut Trigger Guard Trigger Guard Profile: Infinity Traditional Square (ITS)® Hammer: Triple Xcelerated SH Hammer Finish: Silver Finish Dust Cover: Infinity Extended Dust Cover Dust Cover Fluting: None Frame Material: Carbon Steel Frame Style: Competition (Wide body) Grip Safety: Stainless Steel ITI Rail cut: No Rail Cut Slide Lock Pin: Stainless Steel Strut: Titanium Thumb Safety Material: Stainless Steel Thumb Safety Style: Ambidextrous Wide If you haven't already created a design on their Gunbuilder site, you may want to try doing so. Once submitted, you may message the factory with questions, changes, etc.... Brandon has been very helpful with a copule of changes and adjustments on my own spec. I'm used to a heavier gun and this one is estimated to be about 42-43oz. Like 818-DVC suggested, I'll have it blued first and put a few rounds through it. Then I can decide if I want to lose any weight off the slide (or not) and have it final finished. Reading some of the comments now has me thinking about changing to a stainless grip... Hey, I wonder if their offering any Black Friday specials?

Excellent idea - thanks! I have many other Wolff springs - I should have thought of that.

A long ago, in a galaxy far, far away... Wilson Combat sold a super heavyweight tungsten guide rod. This bad mama-jama weighs 5oz, of a non-standard diameter and thus required a proprietary recoil spring. Unfortunately, Wilson no longer sells this FLGR nor the proprietary recoil spring. Does anyone: 1] remember the rod I'm talking about? (we're talking circa 1997 or so) 2] know of a source for this recoil spring - preferably a 12# or 12.5#? If not I suspect that I will have to replace this with a standard diameter unit, which won't necessarily be a bad thing. I'd lose maybe 2oz. and as this will probably be a backup gun by then, I'll live. But it would be nice to be able to replace the spring instead of buying a whole new guide rod.

I presume that from the position of the shooter and RO that downrange is directly in front of them parallel to the plywood "partition". Questions: 1] Are people permitted to walk behind that plywood while the range is hot? Even if permitted, I wouldn't because it may put me in front of the shooter. It's hard to tell for sure from a snapshot. 2] Are targets ever setup in front of the plywood? Totally unsafe. It appears that a berm begins at the forward edge of the plywood. If this is the case, I agree that extending the berm the length of the plywood would simply be the right thing to do to make this particular area of this range as safe as possible. You've alerted the range staff of your concerns and hopefully you've been provided with explanations about why the range uses the plywood as a partition. From the snapshot, it appears you may have valid concerns, but if the range staff don't/won't change this particular aspect of their setup perhaps it would be better not to shoot there if you feel that it is unsafe. I really don't have an answer if it really is unsafe and they won't make it safe.

I probably should have just posted the link to my other post on this holster, but hey, it's Sunday morning, I'm half-assed watching football and I have a vacation day tomorrow Fitting observations: 1/ Both inserts (a 1911 and an STI) required a little fitting with a needle file to get the holster to fully accept each trigger guard. In the case of the 1911, I removed a little material from the insert slide lock. For the STI, I removed material from the polymer grip. 2/ For both inserts, the width of the opening required widening to fit the width of each trigger guard, again going slowly with needle files. On my inserts, the opening measured .357" and my trigger guards are .365" (1911) and .362 (STI) so while I could force the gun into the holster, the release was far from resistance free. 3/ For both inserts, the channel for the external activation lever required attention because the "lever" was riding agaist one side of the channel. Use and operation: 1/ As with any holster with this many adjustments, it takes a little while to get it dialed in. Dry fire, re-position, dry fire, preposition, rinse, repeat.... 2/ I miss having a thigh pad like on the Limcat that I was using. The end of the support arm digs into my thigh especially with the weight of the gun in the holster. I have not yet tried the known fix of putting a slight bend inthe support arm. Other: I have yet to use the holster in live fire but I have now spent a fair amount of time dry firing. Once fitted and adjusted, the release is clean and consistent. I've noticed that I've accumulated a few nicks on the aluminum holster body just from dry fire. I'd guess this is to be expected with a steel trigger guard vs. aluminum holster body. Overall, I like it. Should one have to spend so much time with needle files on a $200 holster? I guess that's debatable but I'm attributing the need to fit to production variances on my guns. However, spending the time doing so, I now fully understand the design of the holster and much like the knowledge one gains figuring out one's gun, I'd say that this can only be a benefit, if not now then furhter down the road.

Same exact situation. I have a bunch of .38 sooper left over from when the gun broke. Switched to limited and never got another open gun. I have two bullet pullers but I just can't bring myself to pulling all that good ammo.

Jake, All 6 mags drop cleanly. I usually hit them with a little car wax just to be sure. It may be that I might be tilting the gun inconsistently sometimes far enough that it affects the drop of the released mag. I'll have to review the video. I don't think it it's #3 but I'll be alert to that going forward.

G-ManBart, Limited, wide body STI, with 7-8 dummies in each mag.

Just noticed this while doing a little dry fire. On some occassions, my new mag contacts the empty on its way out and throws off my whole reload. It seems that there is a point of gun tilt that slows the empty (although it does drop free on its own) just enough to interfere with the insertion of the new mag. I don't EVER recall this happening in live fire though I've blown many reloads for other reasons . Obviously I'd prefer to avoid this from happening at all because if it can happen while dry firing, it can happen during live fire. Anyone else have this experience? Any tips?

Interesting topic. I'm returning to the game after 10+ years and in that time I have gained about 40 lbs. I definitely have a belly now (had to get a new belt just to start ) so it will be interesting to see what adjustment(s) I will have to make to return to the same level of performance. I expect that I will have lost a step in pure explosive movement i.e. the initial push off from one position to another but that may not be 100% attributable to the belly as I've also had a torn achilles tendon. One factor on my side: in the time that has passed, major PF has dropped from 175 to 165. One thing I did notice during a dry fire practice: because of the belly, there is less clearance between said belly and my magazines. So as part of my return, I'm also taking steps to improve my general fitness which means altering my diet and including more vigorous (and regular) exercise. Since deciding to return, I've lost 10-12 lbs in about two months just making those two changes. Clothes fit better (some pants are actually on the verge of too loose) and I may have bought a brand new belt that is a size too large. If I lose all 40 lbs, I may have a belt to sell and that would be a good problem.