bountyhunter

That's a good one........ sounds like one of those old Yogi Berra sayings.

That's exactly what they do because express mail now gets tracked and so they scan it in "as delivered" and then drive it around in the back of the truck until they get around to delivering it.... or in my case, until they deliver it to somebody else's address. Then you check on line and it shows "delivered". I wrote a HATE thread once upon a time about my adventures with the USPS but it got locked and I got a note explaining that I was not allowed to disparage the US postal service because some forum members work for USPS. But the work standard for the USPS in my area absolutely amazes me..... any private company that conducted business in such a manner would have gone bankrupt many decades ago. Fed Ex and UPS are hit and miss on delivery, but I have never had them lose anything while USPS has lost sevaral items. One thing UPS did for a while that REALLY ticked me off: when they were pinching pennies on fuel costs, they would sometimes hold an item at the hub for a few days if another item was "en route" from somewhere else which meant the first item got delayed so they could do just one delivery run to my house.

Look for the flash to use it as a backlight to snap an image of the sight picture.

I never heard of the screws failing but the hinge pin (that the sight pivots vertically on) break frequently. They are made out of brittle steel and they shear at one end or the other. Screws don't usually fail.

You might want to volunteer at the local animal shelter like I do. You get to pet all the dogs you want, they will adore you. You might also run into the perfect dog for the next section of your life.

Melatonin will put you out. Not a drug, buty the 3mg capsules and take 1/2 of one.

Right now it also shows Blazer Brass 9mm in stock for $16.99

I remember a cartoon showing a guy staring at the form saying: "This is outrageous! They are taking away 2% of my income!" times have changed....

Good point. You can very easily learn to shoot through a fuzzy sight picture with both eyes wide open and focused on the target (sights aligned along dominant eye sight line), which IMHO is the only viable way to handle a defensive situation. Closing one eye and narrowing your field of view is too dangerous. If you use three color dot system with front sight and rear different color, it's VERY easy to aim without focusing on the sights (using indirect sighting). Since most defense shooting is under 15 yards, the accuracy is more than adequate using indirect sighting.

One of the experts here some time back posted the trade secrets about fixing up a Glock trigger including changing the pivot hole in the trigger. I did it to mine and it does make the trigger a lot better. That said, I still don't like the Glock trigger so don't expect miracles.

Depends on hand size and most of all, how it's gripped. Some people with small hands have trouble when they try to grip high. The biggest knock on the 1911 grip safety was a documented case where an LE was streuggling to shoot somebody behind them who was choking them or otherwise trying to kill them and the "turned" position of the 1911 the LE was holding would not let it fire. Anyway, a lot of people have had problems. Obviously, a normal sized hand on the center of the grip in normal grip is probably not going to.

Why? Is it shooting too high or you just want more of the barrel lug into the slide cut? I recall there is a spec for the min amount the lug has to be in, but don't remember the exact number. I know it doesn't have to go fully in. Seems like it would be a whole lot easier to shave the top of the rear sight if there is enough material. I couldn't count the number of guns I had to do that on to zero POI. Can also go to a lighter ammo load (lighter grain bullet/less powder) and that will drop POI. If my math and brain serve me, I doubt very much you could change the link enough to compensate out 1.5" @ 30' which is about 4" at 25 yards.... that's a TON. Sure the front sight is the right height?

A good way to reset the sleep cycle is Melatonin. I also use a 1/6 dose of Ambien when I have to get to sleep. That low dose will let you be functional again in about 4 - 5 hours.

On grip safeties: I weaken the spring load so there is no chance of it not depressing, but still leaves it functional.

That is the test I did on my 66 and 686 guns and saw no difference at all with factory .38 ammo. I was specifically looking for any advantage and it wasn't there. I suspect (based on testing) that if the factory FP is good and proper length (.495) performance does not change. If the pin is too short, it will. In all my guns, I think I found two pins a shade under .495 and replaced them with the stock .495 FP. I just saw no change with standard factory ammo like Sellier Bellot, UMC the usual junk.Just curious, what is the reliable trigger pull weight on your 686 with your current loads (not flattened primers) ? Also what was the length of the extra length firing pins (greater than .495) that are prone to breakage and who made them? I found those C&S pins I got from Bill and the package says Extended Firing Pin New Style. I measured the pin and came up with .510, is this the pin you are talking about? I recall the C+S pins were .510. Most of the stock SW pins were .495, I recall a couple were .490 and I chucked them. Interestingly, I have seen both steel and titanium .495 pins from SW. The DA pull weights I can get now on MIM guns are typically in the 6.5# ballpark because I am shooting factory ammo with harder primers. I had an old 686 with hammer mounted FP that I got down to 5# DA but that was shooting reloads with softer primers. It wouldn't ignite factory ammo set that low.

I believe .495" is the correct standard pin length. I am not stunned if SW has problems with piece part quality. Somebody posted they thought the "shorties" were made to pass the California muzzle drop test, so the FP won't come forward as far. I never heard that before, but it's possible. At any rate, I think .495 is the correct length. I wonder if SW has two different part numbers or if they would admit it?

Let us know what your results are, I use the titanium .495 S&W firing pin and haven't found anything that works better.Me either. I tested the C+S extended pins and they sure don't.

It is only a drop-in fit if the frames of the guns are identical, they usually are not. Most of the time, the trigger fit requires a little tweaking to accomodate tolerances. It might work, might not.

That is the test I did on my 66 and 686 guns and saw no difference at all with factory .38 ammo. I was specifically looking for any advantage and it wasn't there. I suspect (based on testing) that if the factory FP is good and proper length (.495) performance does not change. If the pin is too short, it will. In all my guns, I think I found two pins a shade under .495 and replaced them with the stock .495 FP. I just saw no change with standard factory ammo like Sellier Bellot, UMC the usual junk.

That was my point. A good .495 pin works as well as the extended pins with my ammo. No difference at all in ignition. I also found a couple of short pins and chucked them and replaced them with proper .495 pins. S+W has very poor quality control on piece parts, FPs are not the only parts with issues. "The extended ones work better for lightened actiions when using firmly seated Federal primers because they are lower in the primer pocket than a factory primer, thus further away from the firing pin." maybe, I never tried that, but first thing I did was measure how far the FP comes through the breech face and compare it to the old hammer mounted FP. The .495 pin in my guns comes through the same distance, no change. So, I assume that means those hammer mounted pins would also not work well with these primers. Sounds like an ammo problem. "Due to these and probably other variables some guns do fine with factory pins and some need longer pins." maybe, I just could not find any advantage at all in any of my guns. I suspect if there is a difference it's due to another problem which could be addressed and fixed. Just my opinion. "Also I talked to Bill Laughridge (C&S) at Bianchi and he exchanged all the old pins I had for new ones. I think the new pins use a different metal and are more resistant to breaking. I have not tried any of the new C&S pins yet." I hope they are better. I tried three C+S pins some years back and two broke rather quickly. Also, they appeared to be either MIM or cast and had rough flash on the sides. I had to clean and polish them to get them to fit without dragging. No improvement at all in performance, obviously I do not use them any more.

one opinion. Quoting a gunsmith off the SW Forum regarding extended firing pins: "Don't. They're excessively long and will hit the rim recess if dry fired without snap caps. They also have a nasty habit of breaking and trashing the firing pin spring. The stock pins that measure .492-.495" work as well as anything. Only reason I can see to use the C&S pin is if you want to shoot loose (un-moonclipped) .45acp in a 625." Regarding the california pins: "The "problem" with S&W firing pins is not a quality issue. They're titanium (except in some of the early FMFP guns) and well made. There are several designs due to California's idiotic "drop test" and some work better than others. The "good ones" are the ones that measure .492-.495" long."

I would point out this: I think extended pins are unnecessary and do not improve performance COMPARED TO THE CORRECT STOCK PART. There have been reports that some of the stock SW pins are undersized.... and should be canned and replaced. But, the correct pin is long enough. I found this in another thread: "A couple years ago I pretty adamantly argued against the use of extended firing pins. I have softened my viewpoint somewhat. The main reason for my partial change of heart on the aftermarket pins is that the current factory firing pins (the California drop-test compliant version) are so dang awful. The original .495" round-tip factory Ti pins worked great--even in lightened competition actions--but the California pins tend to causes all kinds of misfires if the action isn't full factory strength. I still have a small quantity of "good" factory pins in my inventory, but when they are gone I will be switching to either the C&S pin or the Randy Lee pin." If SW is installing the wrong part in some guns, that's easily correctable.... without going to a longer pin that increases the chances of breaking. The first thing I did to see if the longer pins would be better is measure the protrusion distance through the breech face of the MIM pin fully forward (hammer fallen) and found it to be the same as the hammer mounted firing pins. If your firing pin is a stubby, replace it with the right one. I don't know if SW is truly shipping midget pins in california guns, but you can still buy the standard length pin and install it.

As far as I knew, the ribbed mainspring was designed to work with the stock strain screw.

Perhaps you'd share with us the results and your insights from those "detailed measurements".Was really simple: had two 66's set up with access to the strain screw through the grip. I backed out screw reducing mainspring force and carefully marked the points where the same ammo would just start to misfire from light strikes. Change to longer firing pin and NO DIFFERENCE. No advantage for spring force and ignition. I also did measurements on DA pull weight comparing how low it could go between the two firing pins and the longer pins gave no advantage. If they did give better strike energy (and enabled a lighter DA pull) they would be in every revo I own. They don't. They just break easier. I did see that the Wolf ribbed mainspring could get the DA pull down about 1/2 pound lower than flat mainspring at point of misfires. The rib thing does seem to do a better job of striking for a given pull weight.

Yeah..... but since the OP was a professed Glock shooter, I avoided pointing out the so-called trigger safety (which only works as long as nobody touches the trigger) is every bit as useful as a grip safety that only works as long as nobody picks up the gun.......