bountyhunter

In case you were thinking of biting on those great offers from Best Buy on the e-machines computers because of the fantastic rebate offers.... 1) I just got ripped off by Best Buy because they advertise a $200 "Best Buy" rebate on a computer and monitor and then later I found out it was two separate rebates... and they only allow one rebate per household and you are not eligible for both, so it's false advertising. Screwed out of that $100 by Best Buy liars. 2) e-machines has an arbitrary rule that if they don't receive the rebate material back from you within 30 days of sale, you don't get paid.... even though the rebate offer is still valid for another six months (it is in the microscopic print on the bottom of the rebate receipt). I kept copies of all the original material, how I am I supposed to prove when I mailed it? Screwed out of another $150 by e-machines. 3) Junk: e-machine hardware must be really crap. I only use the computer to do e-mail and make MP3 CD's for audio, and the CD drive started malfunctioning about a week after the 30 days "return with no questions asked" period expired. So now it requires service return or fix it myself. Love this cheap junk, never buying e-machines again. There's a reason their prices are low.

Wait until you get allergies so bad that your eyes get so swollen it blurs your vision. That makes iron sights REALLY fun. I find it usually shifts my groups about 4" left at 25 yards.

Bring along a business card. If you can read the tiny print at arm's length, you got it.

Why? My 1640 has the standard one piece FLGR. If you mean that the rod is coming unscrewed from the base, mine did the same thing. George Wedge will send you a new one. Don' t waste time with Loctite if it keeps coming out (mine never held either). BTW: The stock Para FLGR rod in my 1640 is slightly larger in diameter (about .010") than a "standard" 1911 rod so get a replacement from Para if yours is not right. The Para reverse bushing is sized to match their rod. If you install an aftermarket guide rod/reverse bushing (smaller than stock), the fit into the cutout on the Para barrel bushing will be loose.

"Fat, drunk and stupid is no way to go through life, son." (Dean Wormer) "Face it, Otto...... you didn't throw up in FRONT of Dean Wormer, you threw up ON Dean Wormer." "Referring to how John Belushi eats): "It's perfectly safe as long as you keep your hands away from his mouth." (At the Student Counsel Trial): "Let me handle this, I'm pre-law..." "I thought you were pre-med?" "What's the difference....." (John Belushi as Bluto Blutarski): "This situation calls for a meaningless and stupid gesture... and we're just the guys to do it!" (Bluto): "When the nazis attacked Pearl harbor... did we give up?" "Huh?" "Don't stop him....... he's on a roll."

YES No, it is impossible to correct at all distances. In fact, the only reason the human eye can focus at more than one distance is the muscles which stretch the lense to change it's shape. As you get older, it gets stiffer and stretches less and less... so your ability to focus at closer distances gets less and less. Are you over 40? It usually hits about there.FYI, a scrip of -4.50 diopters is VERY strong... I'm blind as a bat and I am only at about 3.25. A 4.50 scrip would be very hard for an aging eye to be able to "pull in" to near focus compared to a lighter scrip. One option you have which I use is to get shooting glasses with the full distance scrip in the left lense and an "intermediate" focus scrip in the right lense that makes it easy for your eye to see the sights. Works great for me, might drive some people crazy. Your doctor knows all about it: it's called "mono vision" and people have been doing it for years. They use it with contact lenses and glasses if they don't want bifocals. Your brain has to learn to pay attention to one eye or the other depending on range... easy for some to do, impossible for others.

Good point: I have never seen a goofball sear like this one where the sear face is actually a semi-circle...... not flat or flat with a relief cut. The cocking cam it mates with has a flat cocking notch (at least to my old eyes), but the outer hammer body has two round "cups" that wrap around the sear face when the hammer is in the forward resting position. I assume the designer thought the rounded sear face would give a smoother, sharper release than a flat one? As far as I can tell, the hammer "cups" keep the sear from being accidentally bumped off the cocking notch when the slide hits home? I want two ounces of whatever they were smoking when they designed this gun.....

I finally got angry enough at Para that I tore down my 1640 LDA and went through the trigger group to fix the "random reset failure" problem. Here are some numbers on mine: It takes a shade over 3# of trigger force just to move the hammer rearward to get to the set point. That is deflecting only two springs (the hammer return spring and the FP safety plunger spring in the slide). That being true, it is exceedingly difficult to get a trigger pull much less than about 4.5#. If somebody has a 3.5# LDA trigger, either they have changed the springs or removed the FP blocking safety altogether (something I wish I could do to mine for various reasons). It is true the hammer (main) spring affects the trigger pull significantly, probably because the internal cocking cam which actually drives the hammer gets deflected against the main spring as the sear is moved forward to break the shot. My Para originally had a trigger pull of about 6.5# (which BTW is what Para's website claims is correct for the gun). After polishing the contacting surfaces and installing a lighter mainspring, I got it down to a shade under 5# with very smooth pull. The gritty feel is due to the black oxide coating on all the internal trigger parts (which obviously are not stainless or they wouldn't need it). I polished this coating off of all the contact areas and the pull got much smoother (which makes it feel lighter). Reducing the pull will require a lighter mainspring.If you are not a gunsmith, you may think twice about tearing into an LDA's trigger works. They are in no way similar to a standard 1911. I had to make some assembly drawings showing the part relationship and spend a fair amount of time staring up into the well seeing how the parts relate before I felt like I knew what was going on. To the eyes of this old engineer, that design is overly ambitious, optimistically audacious, and trying to stuff ten pounds of poop into a five pound bag. For the record, I'll never buy another Para anything and it is NOT because they are overpriced junk for what you get, and it's not because of the piss poor quality of the internal parts, it's because they won't give out an armorer's manual or any service information at all about the LDA trigger which leaves you defenseless and helpless when there are problems (unless you are pretty good at gunsmithing). Never forget the cartoon where Bugs Bunny and daffy Duck were competing to get to a TV show first to claim a million dollar prize.... Daffy kept setting traps for Bugs and then falling into them himself. In one, Daffy fell off a cliff. I'll never forget what Bugs said as he watched Daffy plummeting toward the ground like a sack of cement: "I wonder if that stupid duck will remember he knows how to fly? (SPLATT!) Nope.... guess not..." Well, this duck remembered yesterday.

Or the old one about: "Vegetarian" is an Indian word that translates into "lousy hunter".

I can't remember where I read the first one. It was in somebody's tag line in a post and it really struck me as funny. The other one I read at the bottom of somebody's tag line that I always try to bear in mind when posting: "Winning an argument on the internet is like winning a race in the special olympics..... it may make you feel good, but you're still a retard."

"Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a few hours. Set a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life." "If a man speaks in the forest, but there is no woman there to hear him: Is he still wrong?"

dave: you bent the leg forward (looking from the back of the pistol)? or you bent it back more towards the grip safety? You make it flat, no curve, so more toward the frame. Ditto. Just bend the RH (viewed from rear) leaf of the sear spring a shade flatter (which is moving the top of the leaf AWAY from you) and you can dial the grip safety pressure down to nothing, if that's what you want to do.

They still haven't topped "Married With Children".

In my case, I was not able to obtain decent trigger control until I drove all doubt out of the mind... a lot harder than it sounds. In bullseye, trigger pull is ruined because people "hit" the trigger as the dot crosses target center, causing a larger POI error than the dot movement would if a smooth pull had been used. For me, it took many hundreds of rounds fired using "shot mapping" where I shoot five and visualize where they went to make my mind KNOW that if the pull is smooth and the gun is in a certain area, the shot will be in the ten ring. The odd thing is, if I stand there and look at the bullseye target at 25 yards and start thinking about how small a 3" ring actually is and how hard it is to put all 30 into it, I can talk myself right out of doing it. So, you have to completely convince the mind that trigger pull requires 100% of the focus and block the targeting information from your brain once you commit to pull. Shot two perfect scores last week so it actually works. Speed shooting league is a lot harder and perfect scores a lot more difficult to come by. But, the mechanics are similar: align on target until the sights are in the acceptable area and then ignore them and focus 100% on a smooth pull. When sights return to the proper area, repeat. For me, the speed shooting is much harder simply because all the actions are compressed in time and there are more things to break your concentration (like reloads). But if you can maintain complete focus during the critical interval (sight/ignore/pull), you will shoot consistently. My worst distraction is that I see the hits on target because I have both eyes open and even though the gun recoils up, I can still see the target... and if I hosed one off line, it pisses me off. That's another distraction you have to focus out.

Yes, you will due to an unavoidable law of optics called parallax. Looking out using only one eye, you can change focal point all you want and the objects are still in line with the seeing eye. It's when two eyes are used that parallax occurs. Whatever point you focus on using two eyes, you will gat a second image in front and also behind that point. If you draw lines out from each eye that cross at the point of focus, you will see why it's true. Thos lines will be separated at any distance other than the focal point. getting a second image in one eye only is odd. I suspect your eye is torquing the focus muscle which is causing an "astigmatism" like effect at ranges beyond the focal point. Also, it's possible the alteration done surgically affects how the lens changes as you focus.FWIW, I have terrible nearsightedness and sometimes my blurry vision at a target spot will show a big fuzzy dot and a second kind of dot over it which is a little clearer. Maybe this is the kind of effect you are seeing?

Wartime is only the other side of peace time. But, if you've ever seen how wars are won. Then, you know what it's like, to wish that peace would come. And don't it seem like a long time, seem like a long time? It seems like a long, long time. (Rod Stewart)

I'm betting they hold the trigger DEAD tight back when they drop the slide for loading to prevent an inertia trip and also protect the sear face from bounce damage. But, some folks get REALLY upset if you drop slide with the trigger back, even if the muzzle is pointed downrange.

Last night at bullseye we moved the targets into 15 yards after we shot half the rounds at 25 yards. Then, the RO tells us to step back from the line and he walks downrange to adjust the target positions. As he is about ten yards away, one of my buddies yells at him: "OK if I dry fire at the target while you adjust it?" I turn and look at him like he's lost his mind and he says." "He's got those electronic muffs on...I just wanted to see if they worked."

Or as mae west once said: Good girls get to go to heaven, but bad girls get to go EVERYWHERE.

The hammer deflecting rearward slightly may not be 100% necessary, but it is good insurance against "hammer follow". If you look at the angles of the sear and hammer hook faces as the hammer is coming forward, a "no hammer deflection toward the rear" setup would mean they come together about "square". If you put a bit of positive angle on the sear as it comes into the hammer hook, that will tend to pull the sear in towards the hammer pivot effectively "locking" it in. The portion of the sear face nearest the hammer contacts first, and the hammer hook face rotates it inward. (If it is a 1911 sear, it will have two faces: a "primary" cut and a "secondary" or "relief" cut. The primary face cut is the one that has to capture into the hammer hook face). Remember the hammer has inertia coming forward, so if the sear face angle starts to go slightly the other way, the hammer hook face starts to look like a "wedge" and can bump the sear out of the way from it's foward momentum: result is hammer follow where the hammer falls th the half cock notch because it didn't hold when it hit on the FC notch. I think the smoothest roll is obtained with a "radiused" sear face where it rotates smoothly as the sear moves to drop the hammer (and the hammer does not move forward or rearward). But, you have to make sure and keep good sear spring pressure to prevent hammer follow.

But don't worry..... the government said there is no such thing as global warming.

Who says an electrician connected it? When we had our kitchen remodeled, the new oven stopped working and I smelled burned wiring. Called a repairman to fix it. he slid the oven out of the wall and showed me the steel junction box behind it where the connections were: FLAME damage all around it, but the box kept the fir from spreading out. It turns out the electrician our general contractor hired (and charged us for) was on another job that day so the Gen Con did the connections behind our stove himself and half-assed them royally. I should have sued the son of a bitch, he was about one spark away from burning my house down.

Having wasted too many hours tuning the trigger on my HP, I feel safe in saying this (assuming mag safety removed): 4.2 - 4.5# is the lightest RELIABLE trigger that you can get on a HP with the stock sear lever (and a reduced force hammer spring). You can get the pull weight down to about 3.2 - 3.5 with the C+S sear lever, but that makes the "pull length" longer because it lengthens the lever distance of the sear lever on the sear. I will add this: HP's are the most notorious guns for posts that start: "I bought this used HP and now the hammer goes forward after I shoot..." People are always screwing them up. And, the steel on the stock sears is soft and will wear into the "hammer follow" mode after a few hundred rounds. The smart money is to buy the C+S sear and hammer which are much harder than stock, pay a really good gunsmith to do the trigger job, and then you will have about a 4.5# trigger with decent break.... and a gun with about $1200 in it that shoots about like a $500 1911. The HP is possibly the finest defense/CCW pistol ever made: simple, few parts, reliable, very narrow profile and the grip is about 3/4" shorter than most full size guns, holds 14 rounds of 9mm, easily handles +p ammo. It is concealable, reliable, and accurate enough to kill with. But.... a competition pistol it ain't, and you will notice them absent from that venue because of it. The terrible trigger is the main reason. I should add there are definitely some people who can master the HP trigger. Mr. Camp who moderates a number of forums is a real HP enthusiast and he shoots groups at 15 yards I could only duplicate if I taped the target to the muzzle of my gun. But, if you prefer the light, crisp breal like a 1911. the HP trigger is very different. For most of us, a stiff breaking trigger is harder to operate without moving the sights (is for me). Just bought a new SIG and that is EXACTLY what I am seeing as well.

The term "creep" is usually reserved for triggers where the sear "jerks" in steps across the hammer hook as you pull the trigger, as opposed to sliding smoothly across it. The trigger in my CZ deflects the hammer to the rear significantly as the sear moves, but the pull is still glass smooth. That kind of trigger is very easy to shoot accurately, the jerky ones are not.

My HI Power slide is in the white all throughout the inside surface (chrome outside). I've never seen rust anywhere.