bobcatt320

Another + 1 for the MSA Sordins. I do use plugs underneath them, but they are awesome. I had used ear plugs alone for years and recently broke down and bought a set of the MSA Sordins and have been very pleased. You can turn them up to where you can continue to here range commands even if you are doubling up on ear pro. Only problem I continue to have with ear muffs is getting them to seal tight with glasses on. Guess this is a never ending battle. Gel inserts help some with this problem, not to mention a lot more comfortable.

Went through this couple months back after our local match found a new range where we could have 300 yrd shots instead of 60 or less. I ended up going with the Vortex PST 1-4. For the money. I love this scope. Very clear in my opinion and I have some high end scopes to compare it too. It would be nice for you to find someone local that may have one to look into to see if you like the reticle or not. I like it, but when it comes to reticle selection I find diff people prefer diff reticles so it end up being what works for you the best. My second choice would be the S&B short dot, but I couldn't justify the diff in the price at the time over the vortex.

I too, couldn't get the mandrel all the way into the mag tube. I just lightly tapped it until it was seated all the way. Yes the kit has been worth it to me. Big diff from the stock sti mags to the tuned ones. Tuned ones at the very least are so much smoother. Not really had any feeding issues yet, but I tuned the magazines before I ever used them so I don't know if they would have had issues or would have ran fine without tuning. Brass hammer, calipers, fine grit sandpaper, bench vice, is pretty much it. Soft jaws are nice for the vice if you have them. Everything else is included if I remember correctly.

I bought a SR-25 with the greatest intentions of shooting .308 just for something different in our local matches. Always wanted one so convincing myself I would shoot it in competition helped persuade myself that it was a need and not a want. Ha Ha you guys all know what Im talking about Im sure. Make a long story short with a little more recoil I figured it would be slightly slower than my .223 on rapid shots, but my biggest reason in not using it yet was the cost. I do reload .308, but even then the cost of it is a lot more than .223 so I haven't taken the plunge and shot it yet in a match. If they had a heavy metal class locally it would be nice, I would deff try it out then.

If you were dead set on a 16" couldn't you go with knights armament upper. Isn't there gas system between a mid and rifle length. So far it is what I have been using at local 3 gun matches out to 300 yrds. Very soft shooting in my opinion and very light. With that being said I am on the hunt for a 18" or 20" competition only set up after I shot my buddies JP, so go figure.

Im glad this thread was started, couple local guys had been debating this same thing. We had all come to the same conclusion that there wasn't much point in it. Most of us shoot long range also along with 3 gun comp and always thought that the heat sink would change the harmonics of the barrel. Also couldn't see that it would cool the barrel that much quicker. It Doesn't really matter if it does or doesn't if it doesn't doesn't make a tremendous difference especially for 3 gun, we didn't really see the point in it. It does look cool though.

I've wondered the same thing do you mind me asking what kind of advice from other forums was given that persuaded you towards the SCR? I like the idea of the side charging, I've just always been one that even with a competition gun I liked keeping especially the controls the same as a home defense rifle etc... so that if for what ever reason I had to use it the manipulation of the rifle would be the same. But I am not beyond trying new ideas either.

I had the same experience, when loading to power factor it is very difficult for me to tell the diff between the 165 and 180's. If anything the 165 may cycle slightly faster from the videos we've seen of us shooting, but as far as felt recoil its not enough for me to really tell. The way I look at it, its cheaper to shoot the 165's so thats what I go with.

Never saw the point of it, in either case of long gun or hand gun the gun always seems to shoot better than I can so I don't waste my time. I will say to me more important than worrying about deburring flash holes etc... is just to take time to inspect inside and outside of cases especially if pick up range brass. I had gotten slack on this and just happen to notice while loading on a dillon 550 that a 9mm case looked way to full for 1 pull. Dumped the powder out and there was grass compacted in the case that the tumbler didn't get out. Loading with titegroup that would have caused a problem for sure as the powder was near the top. Thank goodness I just happened to be looking in the cases after the powder was dumped.

40 s&w Maj. out of a 5 inch KKM barrel in my STI limited gun. 5.3 gr Titegroup, CCI Primers, 165 gr FMJ Montana Gold 5.4 gr Titegroup, CCI Primers, 165 gr FMJ Montana Gold is what I am using trying to stay around 1050 fps.

I've seen a guy use a pull type golf cart, but it was at a 3 gun match. The baby joggers seem to work better, especially seeing that mine was free after stealing it from the kid, ha ha. On the baby joggers, just don't get one with suspension system they aren't as stable and are hard to steer on the side of a hill. Friend of mine even has one that still folds down with the gun racks mounted to the side of it, for those that have to throw it in back of car or suv.

Guys don't know about the OP, but you've helped me with the stock selection. If I can opt to have the Low Mass system with the UBR, thats the way I will be going. From what you guys are saying I should have no problem.

I have used the JP yellow springs in the past, they do lighten trigger pull, but on some guns they worked fine and others I would have light primer strikes with certain ammo using them. Save the hassle and either go with the JP Trigger kit, or one of the geissele 2 stage trigger kits. These are the only 2 I have used Im sure there are others out there. Both are great. Think the Geissele is a little more money.

I've always zeroed at 50 and confirmed somewhere between 200 - 225yrds. Typically have to fine tune it a little at the 200yrd line, but seems to have worked pretty well for me compared to guys that zero at other distances. I think the biggest thing is know your zero and shoot it at different yardages so that you know where your rifle shoots with your ammo at those distances.

At this point I think either one will be fine, I prefer to buy a slightly used one and at this point CTR's are the only ones you seem to see used. Don't know if that is saying something for the JP-15, either less people have them so there are fewer in the second hand market or more people like them and don't want to part with them. Either way I think I've decided which ever one I seem to find to my liking at the time is the one I will end up going with.

Will the JP Low Mass System work with a UBR stock? Doesn't this stock come with its own buffer tube? Is it long enough to use with the low mass buffer? This seems like a good thread to ask in. The ACE stock seemed to be a little on the lengthy side for me. Or at least the one I shot of my buddies. Im sure the pad wasn't removed though.

Thanks for the reply, I knew the differences as far as dust cover FA etc..., but that helps hearing that you have both and would go with the jp 15 from now on. I normally buy new guns, but when I get ready for this one I think Im going to look at slightly used ones to begin with. So far I haven't found any used JP 15, not that I am in the market just yet, thats the main reason I had questions with the CTR, not that it is easy, but there seem to be more used CTR-02 out there than the JP 15

I have been very pleased with the Vortex PST for the money. I have a buddy with a S&B short dot and he and I both agree that for the money you can't beat the Vortex PST. He claims if he had to do it over again he would have saved his money and bought the Vortex.

Thanks guys for the help. That is what I had assumed was the answer, but felt better hearing it from someone else who may have actually handled the ctr.

I also use the blade-techs. They seem to be very durable and quick. If you don't mind the wait the Raven are also very nice.

Any one know if the CTR weighs anymore than the JP-15? I have shot a JP-15 with the low mass bolt carrier and it was awesome, but have never seen or handled a ctr up close.

I have tried to discover this on my own with the search function, but haven't really gotten a great answer. What is the biggest advantage/disadvantage from one vs the other? Is the JP-15 any lighter that the CTR? From what I can tell so far the biggest diff is the CTR-02 is slightly more accurate. Is it worth the difference in price vs the JP-15 for multi gun matches. Thanks in advance.

I know that 1.20 col fed fine with 180's that I was shooting. To clarify the question a little better with 165's is 1.20 to long as far as the bullet not being seated deep enough in the case. Wasn't sure if there was a magic number of where you could have to much runout. I appreciate the info as that really helps clarify alot for me guys. I will try to test a few more and see if I can get a little closer to the 1050 mark. You guys are right without a chrono you are dead in the water. I had held out a long time as I couldn't figure out which one was reliable enough. Finally said the heck with it and bought a prochrono for the money and it seems to do every thing I needed it to.

Thanks guys, yes I had ordered a chrono before I had posted the orginal question. It actually came in last friday so I was able to test a few. It takes 5.3 gr of titegroup at a col of 1.165 for 165gr fmj to get major. It was between 1014 and 1033 fps with the handuful I tested. Is there a certain fps that I should be at with titegroup to be on the safeside as far as staying major with temp change, but yet not getting to high of pressure. Also my biggest question now is the col. I've heard anywhere from 1.125 to 1.20 Would 1.20 be to long for 165gr? Again, thanks for the help.

Hey Guys need a little insight here. What load do most use to get major pf out of Montana Gold 165 gr FMJ using titegroup from a 5" 2011. I have a chrony on the way, but until then just wondered what to start loading to get close. With the search button I don't find as much as I would like. I've come up with 5.1 gr titegroup with a col of 1.125. I actually loaded some at 5.1 and used a col of 1.135, 1.165, and even 1.190. They all shot fine, just not sure which I should be using for major pf. I definitely want to use the titegroup up, but after that is there any other powders that are better to use. I have some WST on hand if that would work, and N340. Also what col is the best to use for reliability. I had some 165 gr zero jhp would the load be pretty close to the fmj Montana Golds? Thanks for the help