tgford58

VFD will power up you Mill without a rotary phase coverter, not to mention you will have variable speed by pushing a button? Rotary phase cost at least $500+ VFD will cost less than $110 shipped. Ok, I was just browsing along until I read this part. I just purchased a new (for me) 3 phase Bridgeport mill and Clausing lathe. I'm setting these up in our new shop that unfortuantely does not have 3=phase power. I was sorting out my options on rotary converters when I read this. Can you explain a bit - the electronics for this process and some ideas on where to purchase. Sounds like the way to go.

Look at this site. Maybe it will help http://www.caswellplating.com/index.html

I will take you upp on that. I have a couple of 1911 coming off the bench in the next month that I was going to high temp enamel. This looks like a superior finish. We can try one and if it turns out as good as yours then I'll buy the supplies. Thank you for the offer.

Man you did one fantastic job. Tell me about the Caswell system. Where did you purchase and what was its product name?

Springfields I have worked on come .330X60X.075 and are .180 blades.

You did really good! I like how it turned out.

Robar Industries is who I use. They have NP3 and they do a fantastic job. Here's the link. http://www.robarguns.com/

And very well said. Thank you. I am printing and posting in my shop.

Depending on the radius you want on the end - I use a 3/8 end mill for 90% but also a 1/2 if I want a smoother curve. The trick isn't the ends. The trick is indicating in the slide so that the lands you create are the same width down the length of the slide and setting the angle so that they match.

Look at Brownells. They have frame fillers for 1911 and 2011. You slide them in and tighten the vice on the butt end. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=912/Product/1911_AUTO_MAGAZINE_WELL_FILLER

Its the low mount. That's OK. Just stop the tri-top on the top land also. It can be a pain to get the two angles the same width and length but it looks cool when you are done. Depending on how much you are trying to shed in weight you may consider only cutting the top flat and serrating? Just an option.

Sort of the reason. It is to give a smooth surface to aid in both chambering and extraction. Removing the reamer marks is the point, the effect that it has is a topic of discussion.

If you have the bomar low mount rear you want to stop the top and side flats at the same point around the top of the slide. Cosmetic more than functional.

Sounds like your problem is solved. There are too many variables to have a chart of speeds. Barrel makers use their tooling until it drifts. So if you get a barrel with new tooling you get one set of parameters, older tooling completely different parameters. I wouldn't over think it. You will generally be able to build a load that bridges the gap. I have one load that makes major in 4 guns. About a 75fps spread. Send the gun off, get the barrel fit tight and have fun

And, I apologize for being so bold, if Bob has the barrel, I would send the gun to him and have it fit. He's one of the smiths that set the bar we all try to clear.

If the slide stop fits the frame then alter the hole in the link if that is what is causing it. You can tell by taking the barrel out and putting the slide stop through the link. It should spin free. If not, take some 320 sandpaper, make a cylinder and lightly polish the link hole. My bet is if it is tight it is only by a few tenths. Other potential problems can be an overly agressive detent spot, or the area that impacts the magazine follower just doesn't work for your magazines. I have CMC mags that work perfectly in my gun that won't hold open my wife's and vice versa.

Brownells sells a detent spotting drill so that you can get it lined up correctly.

I use Storm Lake and Nowlin barrels and good luck with both. Scheumann is my #1 choice but until they get machines running full tilt again - they are out of the picture. As an FYI - a lot affects speed/chamber pressure. Chamber dimension, bore dimension etc. Should be close enough though.

Hammer follow happens sometimes. My competition gun will on occasion with an empty chamber. It never does when cycling a round. Bend the sear leg of the sear spring forward a bit to help hold it in engagement.

Look in Brownells catalog. They sell Craytex bits. If I am not mistaken, Mr. Strader is trying to elude to using a craytex on the chamber. It works very well.

Why? They have something new?

I've never been asked to increase the trigger play but if that's what you want. Does the trigger have adjusting tabs on the front of the bow? Many triggers come with two tabs - one on each side of the trigger itself that are bent out to reduce trigger play. If those are there you can bend them back a bit. If not I would probably use a riffler file and advance the sloped portion of the trigger channel inside the frame. I don't advocate changing the geometry of the sear and certainly wouldn't suggest filing on the back of the disconnector. You may gain some by polishing the back of the trigger bow and the front of the disconnector but no where near the .020 that you want.

I suggest a new firing pin and a heavy spring. The firing pin should have a smooth radius on the tip. Pull it and see if the end has been peened and if a burr is catching on the firing pin hole. In any case, don't try to save the pin.

Like Loves to shoot, we keep them until claimed. Legally you can set a time after which you can sell the firearm to recover the cost of the work and parts - However - you have to be able to demonstrate in court that the customer was notified to pick it up AND that they were aware of the requirement. In practice, people seem to come pretty quickly after you contact them that the weapon is complete - especially if you collect the charges up front, our SOP for custom work and special parts.

With a case mouth headspaced cartridge it is important that there is a sharp shoulder for the case to rest on. If that shoulder is chamfered or, in the worst case removed, it is possible for the cartridge to move deeper into the barrel throat. The case cannot properly expand and can result in extremely high pressures. I've repaired guns where the owner tried to polish the chamber and had case ruptures and blown primers. I have never witnessed it but I would imagine the same could happen with a bottleneck case. If the shoulder is moved forward or the angle is changed it seems reasonable that you could cause excessive headspace.