ScottyPotty

I had a LM and got so fed up with it.........everyone kept telling me I wasn't good enough to figure it out. I picked up a used 650 and was amazed I could just make ammo and not have to work on the press constantly. FYI I ran 9mm on the large rifle plate for years.

Yes, the Dillon has been more consistent and is easier to adjust then using the disks. Plus I had an extra measurer sitting around so i could dedicate it to the LCT. The next riser i make will allow me leave the powder die in the tool head. This one will have to be unthreaded and rethreaded into the next tool head. I just wanted to prove this worked before I go to all the trouble.

The pro didnt work for me. This is what I came up with. Dillon measurer with a riser I made for the LCT - works great.

What U-die do you all recommend?

yeah, i'm resting the urge for more crimp....

Having issue with bullet set back with some FMJ . I can easily push the bullet back into the case. I'm using a dillon sizer and have tried both the dillon crimp die and the lee factory crimp die. The brass is a mix of range pick up. Would a U die help with this?

Good work!

I ended up just making one. It seems to work great....so far

I want a 1050 but I load 12 different calibers and both my 650 work so well. But I'm always tempted

Thanks but it won't work, I have one of those and already looked into it. I'll probably just have to make one.

Just get the 550B it will be worth it in the long run. Things like primer feed, case eject and the powder measure are worth having and it will give you more flexibility for future projects. Then again.... Why have 2 different calibers conversion, different tool heads, different spare part, have something setup on the 550 but want to do something else that is already set up for the 550. You might as well just get another 650 so everything is identical. That's what happened to me.....

Anyone know if a powder riser is made for Dillon measures? When I put it on the Lee turret it gets a little too tight.

I took off the fail safe rods and use (2) springs. Things just run smoother and gives you some finger room to mess with primers and such.

I use that thing for 9mm with a large pistol case feed plate. It works pretty good, I did do a little modifying of the mouth to make the brass drop a little faster.

I'm pretty sure the guy that made all of those videos moved to 650

I opened up the neck on the 223 trim die. Works great and no need to double size the neck.

I share too.

As Brian said, it will likely be of little or no improvement for smooth metering pistol powders... However, I've ordered one to test in my "making Varget meter consistently and smoothly" experiment... along with a bunch of other stuff. I read somewhere, and agree in priciple that IDEALLY, if you use the Precision Powder Baffle, the plastic powder baffle in the stock Dillon powder hopper should be removed/cut out. Then the Precision Replacement Baffle is placed in the powder hopper relatively low in the tube... Throw a bunch of charges and check for consistency. Raise baffle up in the tube a bit and measure again... REPEAT. Theoretically, there should be a sweet spot in the tube for max consistency and this spot will likely vary by powder. The above is based on what I have read elswhere, although I plan to do an experimen to test it out... I think the Precision Powder Baffle was originally intended for use in replacement powder hoppers... like the extended ones... 2X Powder Hopper for the 550/650 and the 11" hopper for the 1050. The replacement tubes don't have moulded in baffles... Dillon calls them "bowed washers" in the exploded parts views... Some places call them wave washers... I call them a "compromise" at best. I loathe them, and remove them from ALL my powder measure bellcrank screws... and the micrometer powder bar kit eliminates them from the powder bars. You may find static and humidity may affect your results.

Wont you need 2 micrometers kits, one for large slide (rifle) and one for the small slide?

This test came from people stating that the rod would provide more accurate drops due to the clunk settling the powder each throw of the handle. The rod is nothing more than a double drop safety that gets in the way.

I didn't lower mine, but I made a new tube to feed both machines.

For what's it worth I'm very happy with the collect puller. I'd get another one.

That's nice because of the different calibers in one tool. The pistol looks like it would be a pain, but pretty fast for rifle. But a collect puller will be faster if you have lots of bullets to pull.

how many do you have to pull? If its just a few a hammer will do, if you have a bunch to pull, I would try to find a collet puller that would fit the taper section on the bullet.

I use the RCBS collet puller for most of my pulls. Works good and its so much easier to use then the hammers.