Henny

Yes, it works great too! I figure I can only use one press at a time anyway.

I lowered mine so it would fit under a cabinet. There wasn't too much I could do about my other machine.

Before removing the resizing die, check a few cases in your case gauge to make sure they are properly sized. Stranger things have happened!

Make sure the long side of the cam is facing toward the machine, the rear of the cam is flush with the cam slide and adjust caming pin until the case is fully inserted into the shell plate when the press is in the full aft stop position. You might want to check the shell plate for a stuck piece of polishing media that could be blocking full case insertion and that you are moving the handle all the way aft.

How do you install a roller bearing UNDER the shell plate? How does priming work?

The Hornady lock rings work great and make it quick to change out dies. They are what I use on my 1050.

I pretty much gave up on SWCs for my G21s and 30. My Gen 4 21 will feed and eject SWCs fine the Gen 3 and 30 won't. I noted the rear frame rails are a little lower on the Gen 3 and 30. I'd advise against using them as it's hard on the extractor - I eventually chipped the extractor on the G3 21. I've switched to the TC style bullets and have no problems.

Yes, Boxerglocker has it right!

See the little silver metal piece? Slide it over to the right (as you are looking at your feeder). Your problems will greatly decrease!

Appropriate screen name!

I've had very good results with WST in 40 SW and 45 ACP, it meters fine. However, I've never used it for 9mm.

I never really had much luck with that mod. I found that mounting the SS on a piece of 2x4 then mounting that combo in a vice vertically with the handle up is faster. What I do is put my brass to be swaged in a box and shake it so the brass is base down, then grab several pieces of brass by using an "ok" gesture with my right hand, with the brass bases by my thumb and forefinger and the case mouths oriented towards my little finger. I then put a piece of brass on the guide with my right hand and push it closed, I operate the swage with my left hand, tip the guide open with my left hand that's holding the brass and remove the brass with my right hand and start the process over. You're using gravity to your advantage. It goes faster than it takes to describe it. Once you get use to it, you can get a good pace going, with out worrying about string and spring tension. I found my 1050 is much faster!

I always thought taking the tool head off the 650s or just remove the whole measure off the SDB or 1050 and use a funnel to pour the powder back into the can was pretty quick and easy. I leave the primers in the tube and put a post it note on the tube that lets me know what primers are in the machine.

When I'm going to end my session I stop the case feeder or put a bent piece of wire in the case feed arm so no additional cases can be fed. After the primer is seated in the last case I remove the primer cam so no additional primers will be fed. From that point I cycle the handle until the remaining 3 rounds are loaded and the platform is empty.

35 inch bench. I sit at my 650s and SDB but prefer to stand for the 1050. Nothing is mounted on a strong mount.

When shooting chronographs I like to go for a group!

I was having the same problem (except the tumbling part). I solved my problems by over expanding my cases. This expands the case further down in the case. If your case is too tight, no matter what size bullets you use, they will to some extent be swaged down. This could possibly be part of your problem. I wish Dillon would come out with an expander that would go a little deeper in the case with out over flaring the case.

This is what I do, plus a 1050 set up for just 223. Caliber changes are quick and easy!

If a large plate is used for 9mm you'll eventually get jams in the case feeder . It seems that two cases will try to work their way into one slot on the right side of the case feeder and jam up the whole works.

Just unpacked mine yesterday and set it up. I'm really liking it. After the first 500 rounds were done, I forgot all about its price! All it needed was minor adjustment to the ratchet, seating die and case feeder. For some reason or another the 223 cases want to get under the shell plate and jam up the case feeder.

Is your bench sturdy? Is your reloader mounted so there is no wobble? Also check to make sure the platform on the reloader is tight and the primer seater assembly is installed all the way. If the platform isn't tight you'll need the alignment tool. I was having problems with primer seating on my older 650 and that was the problem.

H335 should be measuring near perfectly. As most of the other posters said, use the large powder bar, give the cartridge a chance to fill up (take note how long it takes to dump a charge of powder out of the case), make sure you don't have a static problem and make sure your bench and machine is mounted solidly and there is no wobbling! I've never heard of someone having problems with H335 in their powder measure if there wasn't something else wrong.

I found the best and easiest way to stop the primer advance it to remove the primer cam. It's only one screw to remove and it's easy on and off.

I've been running 2 650s with one case feeder. It's not a real big hassle. However, I move it from post to post on each machine.

I like this idea myself. Even use the 550 for it. That way it does not auto index which can be a PITA sometimes. If he uses the 650 for it there's no need to even touch the brass. Just dump and crank to process.