Henny

Henny, when you cut the mounting pipe (steel) don't you also have to cut down the clear case feeder tube in order for things to line up? Yes! Yes, you have to cut the clear feed tube too. Just remember to cut it from the bottom unless you want to rechamfer the top of the tube.

I cut my case feeder tube down and actually use one feeder for two machines. If you have cabinets, the case feeder height can be problematic. However, it's nothing a pipe cutter can't solve!

Just in case anyone wants to see the fix to this. 5 total washers on the bottom brace and none on the top brace seems to even things up. It evens things right up! Once again Sauza45, thanks for kicking my brain in its butt!

I already use the Hornady lock rings. This is good to hear. I think I'll try it out this way at first. Works great for me, as I didn't have room for 12 toolheads setting around , another thing to cut cost is to try and pick-up used the parts needed to make-up caliber conversions verses buying complete kits think i'm down to around $65 a conversion now Angus 6 is the member that gave me the suggestion! Over the years suggestions from Angus have saved me a lot of money....Cost me a lot too!

Just a thought here - unless you have a good supply of 45 ACP brass, you may think about picking up the small primer 45 brass. That way you won't have to switch out your priming system for just one caliber.

I should mention, the only downfall, if it could be considered one is that you have to call your order in to US Shop Tools. The link for their contact information is here: http://usshoptools.com/place_order.asp By the way, I'm not affiliated with US Shop Tools in any way.

For cutting blades try here: http://www.usshoptools.com/NEW_WEB_2012/current_catalog_pdfs/mm_level_3_pdfs/140050_121.pdf Order these: TCMT21.51 TCMT110204 1/4 3/32 0.016 Part# TO-2554 They are for cutting steel. They work very well for me! ETA: $6.71 each

Same here, plus added ejection problems. Make sure the timing of your machine is properly adjusted, you have the shell plate bolt tightened properly and greased on the underside of the bolt head and it helps to clip a few coils off the detent spring. Things have been very smooth for me, even with case filling powders.

Although I did that when I originally put my press together, you made my ever increasingly feeble brain work! I went to the garage and got two more washers to put on the bottom bar and it's pretty straight now! Why didn't I think of that a year or two ago? Thanks sauza45 for jump starting my brain!

The case feeder would actually have to go right and to the rear. I don't think there is much that can be done with it without extensive modifications to the post studs. If that was done, I'm not sure everything else would fit correctly.

I must be the odd guy - I never minded filling primer tubes. To each his own, I guess?

Here you go, a little bit better of a picture showing the "lean". When I noticed this after I assembled my 1050, I went over it again to make sure I didn't assemble something wrong. Some days I look at it and wonder how I could fix it. Then I realize, it works just fine!

Mine does the same thing. I went through my photobucket account and this is the only picture I have in it that barely shows the "lean". I'll see if I can get a better picture tomorrow.

Once you get it and use it, you'll forget all about the cost and wonder why you didn't get one sooner!

Through the suggestion of another member, I use one tool head and put Hornady locking rings on all my 1050s dies. It's a quick changeover for a fraction of the cost.

I reload on both the 1050 and 650 machines. This is what works for me. To me it seems simpler than removing the powder measure. On the 650 I empty the cartridge feed tube by unhooking it from the case feeder, Using a finger to stop the cases from dumping out of the feed tube, I remove the feed tube and case feed adapter, then dump the feed tube back in the case feeder. I then remove the primer cam by just removing the screw that holds it on. Remove the locator pin from station 3. To adjust the powder I just put a case in station 2, pull the handle, return the handle, take the case out of station 3 and check the weight. When I have the powder charge adjusted, I turn on the case feeder, cycle the press to get a piece of brass in station 1, reinstall the primer cam and start loading! On the 1050 it's a lot simpler. Empty the case feeder tube like on the 650. Remove the locator pin from stations 4 and 5 and proceed to adjust the powder as I do on the 650. Once I'm satisfied, turn on the case feeder, reinstall the pins and start loading! These processes seem to me to be easier than removing / loosening the screws for the powder measure and removing the fail safe rod. Plus the powder measure is being operated as it will be on the press. Does this help? Or am I missing something here? I don't understand what the resistance is in operating the machine? With the above method, it's not like you are having brass and primers fed while adjusting your powder weight.

Same here. Never a problem. When I used the SS600, after a few thousand rounds you got a feel for the swaging. All I know is I'm glad I have my 1050. Reaming was killing my Lyme infested hands and the SS600 was very monotonous.

My dad always said if Mcmaster Carr doesn't have it, it's probably not made! Mastiff, I'm with you on this one. The bearing kit even with one washer would still occasionally jam up my machine when the completed round was being ejected. I gave up on it. It works for a lot of people, and that's good. It just wasn't for me. Now I just make sure the underside of the bolt is lubed, the index ball spring is clipped and the timing of the machine is adjusted properly. Sure, a flake will end up out of the case every now and then, but nothing like when the machine stopped when a case got caught up in the ejector wire. Powder is pretty quick to jump out of a .380 case and smooth operation of the press handle rules the day!

If you'll ever have any inclination to reload rifle, get the 550. If you're pretty sure it's just going to be 9mm I'd get the SDB. I still have a SDB mounted on my bench beside my 650s and 1050. The SDB is a great little loader!

Is the shoulder being pulled out by the neck expanding portion of the die? Remove the neck expander, size several cases, clean them up and check them in your gauge.

You changed out the Powder Die or the Powder Funnel? Powder die. I'm guessing I just had one that was messed up somehow. It worked just fine for the powder check station!

When I initially set up for loading 223 I was getting H335 all over the place too. I tried everything to fix it. As a last resort I used a different powder die and my problems ended. I'm guessing it was just some sort of tolerance stacking between the powder die and funnel? Whatever it was, things are good now!

Make sure your fail safe rod goes from the big piece of metal into the small piece like this: ETA: Here I just snapped a picture of the measure on my 1050 - same thing, only different: If the rod goes through the other way, it causes odd things to happen!

It works fine for me. The reason I did it this way instead of just moving the feeder from one machine to another is the cupboard above the machines does not give me enough clearance to take the feeder off easily.

For caliber conversions on my 1050 I use the Hornady lock rings. They make for a quick change over from processing 223 to loading it. It's not too bad to change it over to 9mm either. I only have one tool head a bunch of Hornady lock rings. Just an idea, maybe start saving small primer 45 ACP brass? You'll be able to load your 45, 223, 9mm and 38 on the 1050 without having to change over the primer system. I've never owned a 41, so I'm not sure if it's small or large primer.