hovbuild

I shoot about 10,000 PF 212-220 loads through this gun a year...I use it for pins so at 25' the sight is elevated all the way, hence the angle Pat is talking about...I was thinking of installing a "fixed" bomar cut sight and fudge with the front sight, since I use it at one distance only. In two+ years I totally destroyed one Bomar..Thanks guys.

Is it common for the elevation screw to snap on these sights? Mine does it a few times a year...

That's what it turned out to be....a bit of polishing the left side of mag catch... Thanks guys, Bill

Start at 4.2 wst....Don't over crimp... You will like this powder for minor.

i use 4.3 with a DP 124 jhp....Around 1030 with a 1.09 oal...In my cz it's like shooting a .22...

Thanks I'll do that.. Bill

Magizne is very hard to insert. To lock it in I have to apply quite a bit of force and it just started doing this. I have a straight mag release brake in it and when I hit the release it slips out no problem. Any ideas on wht this is happening? Happens on all five mags.

38's are hard to get them off the table..Some shoots I go to have 3 divisions with 30+ guns in each. Pins get quite heavy as the day goes on. They don't change the pins unless they won't stand up. I use a 255 swc with a pf of 215-225 and in the shoot offs I wish I had more.

Some times I scare myself....625 pin load is 220 PF...Shooting some of the posted loads my gun would feel like a 22....

Thanks for the AA#2 recommendation! I own a cz75b with a beautiful 2.5 no creep trigger. In the last the three years have tried quite a few differed loads and could not get a real good group out of it..Sure a 2.5-3" group at 25 yard off a rest for this type of gun was alright for what it's intended use was. My best loads were using wst and 231 with a MG 124 JHP...I'd run the bullets at about 1030 or so and @ 30' count shoot a bunch through a 2-3" hole off hand. It has about 6,000-7,000 rounds through it. This post got me thinking I should try and get better accuracy out of the gun again. So I got a jug of #2 and went a testing....My oal with the MG 124 JHP is 1.085, this is due to it's short throat. I started at 3.7 and did loads 3.8, 3.9, 4.0 and one at 4.1. Did three 5 shot groups of each. I shot off a crappy plastic rest at 50' ( indoor range)....3.7 970 ave 2.8" group( this load showed a bit of vertical stringing).....,3.8 1008 ave....2" group, 3.9 1040 ave .7" group, 4.0 1068 ave 1" group, 4.1 1101 ave 1.3" group. All I got to say is that 3.9 with that oal in my gun is a very accurate load. That was with 15 rounds, I did pull one but I disallowed it during averging, .7 was just too good to ruin ..Soft shooting and meters real good.. Thanks again!

The little thread bushing on the left side of the sight came out the other day causing the blade to come off..I retrieved all the parts due to some "young" eyes at the range. Now as far as I can see this bushing must be tight to the windage screw but be able to spin in the pocket..Due I use thread locker and is there a special way to do this? Thanks, Bill

I tried using a u-die but I shoot lead and heavy loads. I LOST retention using the u-die. Using a regular die I had no problems but the u-die cause my bullets in the last chambers to walk a bit. It didn't matter what brass I used either. I don't use r-p and a few other thin walled brass.

WOW! great fix....A buddy had Clark drop in compensated barrel he doesn't use anymore so we installed it in my S&W yesterday...I couldn't believe how it fit without any fitting. The only thing was that the Guide rod bushing would hit-rub against the comp. He had a two piece GR and this solved the problem...BTW it grouped 1.5 ay 25 yards off a wobbly rest..

Guys I didn't mean to make you all detectives! I was just fishing for some insight. I had broken a bushing a while back on the S&W 1911 that I use for pins. It has a c-more on it so I have to shoot it in open. I had an old bushing that fit just ok while I waited for a new one from EGW. I noticed that the slide was getting a tad loose and that my groups were opening up a bit so I was thinking of putting together another gun for outdoor pins. Well I got the new bushing and after a small bit of fitting took it and my rest to the range. At 30' I put 10 rounds in a 1 "hole....set the target out to 50 yards and was quite impressed with my old clunker... two flyers but 8 in 3 inches... BTW nice video I shoot against a guy running that same eagle at an idoor shoot I go to once in a while. He is very good but with the small indoor tables I beat him with my cz 75 9mm using minor loads in the shoot to clear shoot offs. I do go home with my head ringing though! He would be tough on the regulation outdoor ones...... Thanks, Bill

Tough to do with TG....You want a softer recoil I would go to a slower powder. TG is to smokey for me with lead and way to snappy. You could play around with springs but a slower powder would be better for the speeds and bullet weight you are using IMO.

Nice vid....Clay shooting is a form sport, starting with the fit and proper mount. If your gun when mounted does not shoot were you are looking you might as well go fishing. Learn the basics and you will be on the yellow brick road. Your mount must be a consistent movement and to do this I practice mounting with a flashlight in the barrel to a point on the wall. I must have done this 50 thousand times. Getting your mount and gun fit down is the first steps. Get a lesson or two. Practice practice practice but without bad habits, lessons will help here....It take a while but you will learn to plan your breaks, stick to your plan, focus and even focus harder on the leading edge of the bird and before you know it you will be shooting subconsciously. Just like when you swing a bat, racket and golf club, you are always looking at the object you are trying to hit. If you see the barrel when you are supposed to be looking at the bird you will miss.

I shoot heavy and hot .45 acp Lead all the time a hundred or after a 60+ round match I go at the bore with a nylon brush wrapped in choir boy strands of copper..A dozen back and forth strokes, then a wet patch, light bronze brushing and then a dry patch...have done this for 45000+ on my open pin gun. I fitted a new ewg bushing to the open gun and today checked the dots zero at 30'. Off a rest I put 10 in a 1" hole! My primer II gets the same treatment as well as a 625....They all shoot the same as when they were new. they see nothing but lead and the 625 gets a feeding of 255 swc at 920+ fps. I stroke the you know what out of them with that nylon brush and copper strands and it has not affect accuracy in any way that I can see. Got 15000 down the LB and 20000+ down the 625....Like to make sure no lead left over will malfunction during an event so they start all shoots clean.

I used two 1911 for pins and some BE. I am pretty good at matching springs and slide weights to the type of load I use. I am trying to get a 10 wheeler with side boards to do both jobs I guess. I don't shoot steel all the time and a simple switch of springs, heavy guide rods and a slight sight adjustment should keep me happy shooting steel in .45. I have loads for that 255 that are soft shooting and very accurate but also load other bullets as well. In most of the events I shoot at there is about 30+ shooters and pims are not change out unless they won't stand up. Makes for some heavy and bumpy pins. All the shoot offs are to clear. My dot gun record is 3.5 sec for five pins and my open sighted gun is 4.2. I am not sure how fast and light a gun needs to be for steel but I think either one of these heavy hitters would do ok. Maybe I am wrong. I am going to check up on AccuRailed and if this is a good option have a 9mm major gun built for steel. I am trying to see what options I have. Thanks responses. Bill

I am at the stage of having a new open gun either built or bought (in the box) for pin shoots and am seeking other open gun owners their advise. I shoot about 4 matches a month and my current gun is getting a bit sloppy. It is a S&W 1911 with a C-more and some "extras" done to it. It has been a one hole gun at 30' for some time but the slide has become quite loose and the groups have opened up quite a bit. So this gives me a great excuse for anew gun. I load and shoot in my stock 1911 and a 625 255 swc aol 1.91 running at between 875-900 and any gun I get must feed these. also 10 rd mags must work also. If I stay with a single stack. I am divided between a double stack or what I have been shooting. I do like a wider grip than a single stack, I use hoague wrap arounds on my 1911. I need speed as well as accuracy so I am not quite sure if I want a comp or not but I do shoot steel also. I know most out of the box open guns are made for steel but I love pin shooting and we have some great shoots to attend in New England. Not like the "old" days from what I am told. Thanks, Bill

That's not the area I am talking about. The top of the MSH on one side and the bottom of the safety are in contact when the grip is engaged all the way.

Which hand primer do you guys recommend? I have been doing my revolver priming on a single stage press, then go and finish on my 550. It would be a lot easier to check and re-seat if necessary after the round are loaded all the way on my Dillon.

Morning, When I checked if the grip safety was hitting the MSH I did this buy pulling the hammer all the way back and there seemed that their was no tension between the two, BUT when gripping the safety hard it would go a bit deeper and contacted the MSH on one corner.. There were rub marks on one side..After measuring the MSH I was surprised the see one side a bit longer, out of square from the bottom to the top.. I filed this are down and it should eliminate the contact when the grip safety is fully compressed. I will let you know how this works out..I am a little disappointed in the quality of this housing.

The grip safety does not hit the housing when the hammer is fully back. The MSH slides out easily. The grips on this gun covers the pin and it could have been broken right after I bought it and not known it until I did a full tear down...I do have a main spring on order and will completely disassemble the MSH a little late today. I will get back to you all and thanks for trying to help....I will call the man himself tonight( Less only takes calles 4-5pm central time) but I do like figuring things out for myself... Bill

It's the pin that holds the housing in the frame...The grip saftey stops the hammer....