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hovbuild

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Everything posted by hovbuild

  1. I have one also and was great until I tried mounting a serendipity to it! I had to go to a side mount to stop the stove piping. Two smiths and I tried to no avail to tune that damn extractor. I will never again buy an external 1911 gun again even though this is quite a shooter now with a fitted bushing, trigger job, c-more and small radius firing pin retainer.
  2. I reload and have to Cull my short .45 brass out at or below .885 for my premier II to have no light strikes.
  3. buying a 9mm spartan or a slightly tunes Trojan. I own a LB .45 premier II and think it is the bomb! But want a 9mm single stack 1911 that will be as accurate and as well built. I am looking for accuracy and reliability. I have heard that the LB 9mm has had some reliability problems but the 600 dollar difference is also an issue. Thanks, Bill
  4. I just tested these with wlp and flp on the same loads and all the fps are within 15 fps.
  5. I load a 255 lswc for pins in a .45 acp. OAL 1.205, 5.3 unique, winchester primers. These run out of a 5" barrel around 875 fps.
  6. I have a 5.5 threaded bully barrel on mine (1x8 twist). It shoots cci quite well just a tad better than the 5" barrel that came with it. I tried some sk match ( now sk match rifle, wolf wxtra match is the same) and it shot groups at 50 feet under 1/2 inch. The cci's were 3/4- 1 inch. I have a ultra dot LT on it but it is only good for indoors because it washes out in sunlight (4moa).
  7. hovbuild

    Dot Size

    I use a 4 dot inside at 50' but outside were we shoot pins it washes out. The sun during these matches are at my back. The 8 dots are fine outside but in the rim fire class the tie breaker is a .45 piece of brass and we only got 4 seconds to get the 5 pins and the brass. My question is do you center (through the dot) the impact area while zeroing in or do you "top of the dot" zero in your c-mores. Of course the 8 on center fire and pins only I usually try and zero in in the center of the dot. One of my guns had miserable ejection problems ( S&W 1911 with the external extractor). Worked on that until the cows came home and would still get a FTF every now and then using the serendipity. I did switch to a weigland to gain some height but I still had problems. Yes I do use range brass. I installed a Quinn II and the added benefit was acquiring the dot so quickly, also no more ftf!
  8. I have never tried clays but I load heavy for pin shoots. 5.3-5.5 unique under a 255 lswc running at 850fps out of a 5" barrel. I do hear that clays are for light loads. If this is true I will stick with the unique for these loads.
  9. Our pin tables are rusted steel 4'x5' and the pins are set up along the front of the tables. While fresh pins can be shot with a .40 they are a real challenge later on when they get heavy with lead. We usually have 4 categories and about 35 shooters so towards the end of the day you better be shooting on the sweet spot with some heavy loads. I like a .45 255 gr lswc, running about 850'ps. These will usually get the job done if you do your part.
  10. +1 I load a lot of unique and the new "clunky" thrower is the ticket with this powder. I also polished and reamed the powder funnel on both throwers and they work great. The newer one is better with flake and extruded powders than the older one.
  11. I have loaded maybe 10000 rounds of 200 swc and 255 swc and used the FCD from lee. I have not seen any "under sizing" of the lead bullets using the crimp die from FCD. My crimps are .471-.470. I would like some clarification on how this die is under sizing the bullet. I also re size all my store bought lead with a .452 sizer before loading them. Most cast bullets can be inconsistent. Thanks Bill
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