ck1

Awesome! Shot mine today at a club match, figured I was running outlaw but don't have another gun other than my EDC carry piece (don't think G26's are very competitive in USPSA ) but still wanted to shoot, glad to have been legal, thus perserving my honer!

I run lots and lots of WWB and Federal Champion from Wallymart without issue using an 11lb recoil spring. I've even run a hundred or so of +P 124gr Gold Dots (my usual carry stuff) without an issue and while the brass gets thrown into low earth orbit, it works fine and is just as reliable as it is with FMJ. I'm not at all concerned about frame battering with a little of the hot stuff, I don't plan on running hundreds more of the carry stuff, but know it's reliable for HD if ever needed, though, that said, I'd be 100% confident in a 13 or 14lb spring in a dedicated defense role. I've also ran a couple hundred of "bunnyfart" reloads a friend gave me with the 11lb spring, ran like a watch, no issues. I don't know what the running record is, but I just got a couple FTF's today in my 75 Shadow after near 3000rds since it's last cleaning. I've given it a couple squirts of TW-25B on the rails a couple times over that time (at 1500 and at around 2500, both times meaning to clean the sucker but then not getting a chance). I put a couple little beads in the barrel lug recesses after the FTF's as it was obvious the gun was just gunked up and dry,my fault, not the gun's, shot another 3 USPSA stages near 100rds, ran perfectly (but guess I should clean it finally).

Mike.

Chip..you are getting to be such a fanboy these days! hahahahha I know, super lame, even started playing with a VZ-58 the other day...

If an 85combat works for you, yeah, it's a great choice, no FPB like the Shadows, just add a competition hammer and you've pretty much got one as nice as they get for around $600, a lot less if you can find a used one. If you like to shoot matches, sometimes beyond just club level, I'd whole-heartedly recommend the short-dustcover 75 Shadow, they ain't cheap ($900+) but IMHO they've got all the best CZ 9mm elements in one packege and pretty much everything out-of-the-box (newer, high-beavertail frame, no FPB, comp hammer onstalled, 85 trigger, good sights) and are legal for IDPA SSP and ESP, IPSC, and, USPSA any day now (the paperwork has literally already been submitted to USPSA), plus it's robust and reliable enough for HD and even CCW. For what they cost in respect to how nice they shoot and how great their trigger's are, consider that a 1911 as nice would cost at least double, probably more, and would be half as reliable... so for the price of less than two Glocks or maybe one mid-level Sig, they're really almost a bargain. Speaking of used, if you don't care about it being totally sanctioned-match-legal for gun games, the FPB can be removed easily from just about any CZ you find, but to keep things in perspective, even the B-models with FPB's have trigger-resets about the same length as a Glock's, which is pretty much better than most. The competition hammer is a MUST though, it's the best $65 a gun-guy could spend, takes them from ok-to-good to WOW. Hate to sound like such a salesman, but I've seen your posts on p-t.com and m4c and think you might be exactly the kind of shooter that would really appreciate how cool they are, they're real working duty/SD guns that happen to make great competition guns, finicky race-guns they're not. Properly maintained, I'd feel totally comfortable running 1k through one in a class one day, shooting a match the next, and then carrying it on Monday...

I too was a diehard Glock-guy, but after a while I started thinking that maybe life was too short to live it out crisp-trigger-deprived. I spent a lot of money figuring out that while nice 1911's deliver the goods trigger-wise, they're way too moody and finicky when one is used to living with G17/34's and never could quite get used to the higher bore-axis and nowhere for my support-hand thumb to ride the same as I was used to with my Glocks. I've owned 1911's by STI, Wilson, and DW, tricked-out too, not garbage, but they still didn't convince me they would be any better for me than my tried-and-true Glocks.. I think the CZ's are the "best of both worlds" and bridge the gap between those two (Glocks and 1911's), leaning heavily more towards the Glock end of the scale in handling and reliability, but with the weight and kick-ass trigger of the 1911's, plus the CZ's actually feel better in-the-hand ergos-wise than both. I should mention the fact that in my case, while I liked them, I was never blown away by the CZ's with the older duck-tail style frames (most 75's, 85's), but once I handled an SP-01 and 75SA with the higher beaver-tail frame I had to try one, even with the bone-stock proletarian models and their less-than-great triggers I was immediatly more accurate than with even my fully-blown Vanek-equipped G34, but once I shot one with a competition hammer installed I was sold and switched, now I'm fully drinking the Shadow kool-aid. If you get a chance to shoot a Shadow, or really any CZ in good-order with a competition hammer installed, I think you'll be surprised and the experience will be eye-opening, CZ's are still not too well known and an unknown-quantity in the US shooting community even at many IDPA/USPSA clubs, that said, most guys I let shoot or even just dry-fire my CZ are SHOCKED by how sweet it is. The main thing I experience is that compared to the Glocks I find the CZ to just be plain easier to shoot well and twice as forgiving. I always tell people: the same bad shot that I pulled that would've been off the paper at 25yards with the Glock, will land 6" left with the CZ...

I must be another one of the lucky guys, I put over 6k and about a million and a half dry-fires on an SP-01 I used to have without an issue and I know the guy who owns it now and he's probably put a couple k on it by now too... My 75 Shadow has near 4k on it now and probably 12 million dry-fires on it, dry-fire almost every day, no issues so far... Just a guess, but I think the springs can get brittle if they get dry, my routine is that I always put a drop of grease/oil on top of the TRS whenever I field strip it. For the guys breaking them a lot, again, just a guess, but it could mean you may have a minuscule burr somewhere on the top of the trigger or frame someplace where the TRS is contacting them, making friction... I'm a long-time guitar player, and when I start breaking a lot of strings at the bridge it usually means there's a tiny burr I can't see with the naked eye on the metal saddles the strings lay over, a little extra-fine steel wool usually cures it.

Not 100% on this but I believe it was free to move. Felt very much like having the thumb safety on (cocked & locked). So far, I haven't had this happen in double action, just single. I had that happen when my trigger reset screw was in too far. It was just at the edge of the limit and didn't happen all the time. I backed out 1/2 turn and never had an issue. Luckily I noticed it during dry fire. I'd check this. Worth mentioning while on the subject: it's important to set the overtravel screw so that if you hold the trigger back after dry-firing, and then rock the hammer, that you don't feel anything contacting, not even slightly... if you're feeling a hint of "rubbing" it means the hammer-hooks are able to rub up against the sear and beat it up, that'll lead to problems sooner rather than later (and will mean a new sear at the very least, maybe a new hammer too). A slight hair of overtravel is a good thing over absolutly zero anyway as it makes a gun more forgiving in rapid-fire.

+1

JMHO, but stoning a stock CZ hammer is more of a short-term solution, and I think it's well worth the small cost to just change out the hammer to a CZC comp hammer... CZ stuff isn't tool-steel like good 1911 stuff, it's just surface-hardened so any meaningful amount of stoning or filing also turns it soft, meaning any trigger-job done that way isn't going to stay for very long and change over time as it erodes. To really eliminate creep from a CZ's trigger it needs the angles changed (which requires re-cutting the hammer-hooks) to remove any hammer-camming and also raising the sear-bed as is the case with the Shadow and competition hammers. Also, FWIW, "tweaking" a CZ trigger-return-spring isn't for everybody, as it also softens the trigger-reset recovery, as a former Glock shooter one of the things that brought me to the CZ's was the ability to simultaneously have the crisp break of a nice 1911's trigger combined with a fairly authoritative and "snappy" trigger-reset not too far from a Glock's. To me, the weight the TRS adds to the overall pull is meaningless and nearly unnoticable as it's really just take-up travel and has nothing to do with breaking the sear, tweaking the TRS to lower the weight of the take-up slack at the expense of a crisp reset has never seemed like a good trade-off IMO, so I prefer my TRS's remain unaltered. Just my $0.02.

This is a good option; all the positives of the 75 Shadow except for the fact that it has a firing pin block, and the Stainless models have the higher beavertail if the older style frame doesn't feel right. While I do prefer the guns without the firing pin blocks in place, a $300+ savings might be more helpful to someone starting out and looking to save some money. In reality while the Shadow's triggers are indeed a bit nicer, even with the firing blocks the B-model gun's still have a reset on par with a Glock and won't really hold one back.

I agree with the sentiment of going with a standard Shadow or the 75 Shadow (which will be approved any time now) are the most economical ways into Shadow-land... A cheaper option than both of those is getting an 85 Combat and then installing a CZC comp hammer, assuming she doesn't mind the "old-style" ducktail frame.

As someone who was a devout Glock disciple for a very long time and who's owned 17's and 34's that have been enhanced to their max potential (tried about every spring/connector combo , boutique triggers like the Vaneck's and others) I would wholeheartedly recommend going with a CZ. Just no contest in terms of what gun is just plain easier to shoot well with less effort, the CZ's are simply MUCH more forgiving. Don't worry about finding accessories, everything is available and easy to get a hold of. That said, an SP-01 can sometimes be tricky to make weight with, many times all it takes is using the $20 plastic grips instead of the rubber ones to get below 39ozs, though it sometimes may also require picking up 3 of the 10rd mags to do it (which can kind of get pricey as the lighter 10 rounders are kind of expensive, and, you also lose the 19 rounder's extended base pad's length which is beneficial to locking in one's support-hand IMHO). If possible (might sound weird) if you can see if the particular SP-01 specimen weighs less than 39ozs w/an empty mags and the grips off of it, before you buy, you're all set (the plastic grips weigh nearly nothing). Plus, factor in the cost of adding a CZCustom's competition hammer and 13 or 15lb hammerspring, as that unlocks the CZ's full trigger-awesomeness-potential, the parts are only around $70 and if you're semi-handy you can install them yourself; will yield a trigger in SA that will rival or beat the best 1911's and DA will be only 6ish-8lbs and as nice as a good revolver's DA stroke. If price isn't too big of a concern, I'd highly recommend the new 75 Shadow (http://czcustom.com/cz75shadowsadablk.aspx) as it's already set up to rock with things you'll likely desire to add to an SP-01 (better sights, comp hammer, better trigger shape, etc.), plus, the Shadow variants do not have firing-pin-blocks which allows for a lighter, cleaner trigger pull and halfs the trigger reset distance compared to a garden variety FPB-equipped B-model CZ (that's mostly what you pay the premium for). Another option to consider is the 85 Combat models as they also do not have FPB's and are usually even cheaper than the SP-01's (though they have the older-style shorter, smaller ducktail instead of the higher, upswept beavertail found on the SP's and Shadows which many like myself greatly prefer). Even with a B-model with a FPB, the trigger-reset length is about the same as a Glock, so they really aren't a real hindrance. Sorry for the novel, just thought it'd be helpful to know a little about getting the most out of a CZ for our games, you could get a G34 and spend another $300 on parts and it still wouldn't really compare to a CZ with a comp hammer installed. In terms of reliability, which is the main advantage many Glock shooters will bring up, I'd say they're pretty much even, the CZ's may be one of the only options out there that can compare to that of the Glock's, in fact, if a Glock shooter uses a reduced-power-striker-spring to improve their trigger (which a lot of guys do) they actually end up making their Glock a fair amount less-reliable than a CZ. 99% of the chatter out there about CZ's having problems is just Internet-hype or can be directly tied to weak mag springs (both Cz 16rd mags and 19rd mags come from the factory with the same mag springs, adding +10% mag springs to the 19rd mags is pretty much a must if you plan on shooting a lot), and CZ's like most guns have a few parts that are consumables and require maintenance or replacement do to their design: the slide-stop pins take a beating, and you've got to keep the trigger-return-springs lubricated so they don't get brittle and pop, and you've got keep an eye on your extractor paying attention for wear or if the extractor spring is losing steam, that's it. Keep an extra slide-stop, trigger-return-spring, an extractor, and extractor-spring on hand and you're covered in the rare event of a breakage, change those out once a year, and maybe pull your extractor for a thorough inspection and maybe a fresh spring every 5000rds or so and you'll likely never miss a beat. Trust me, 34's are great, but 99.9% of guys who own them and who also own Shadow's end up switching to the CZ... Point is, while of course it's always more about the Indian than the arrow, a heavier gun, with a better trigger and more built-in inherent-mechanical-accuracy can make one into a seemingly slightly better Indian, I've seen it and experienced it too, can't hurt to equip yourself with best "bow" you can . One more thing: it's fun to shoot the CZ cocked n' locked in ESP too, they give up nothing to even the finest 9mm 1911's, in fact, IMHO they've got an advantage as I routinely beat the 9mm 1911's based on the "bonus time" they hand me as they almost always have an issue or two with some form of malf or by not seating a mag, the CZ's shoot like the good 1911's but run boringly trouble-free like the Glock's!

Neither, get a 75 Shadow T (or 75 Shadow if you don't need the adjustable rear sight). As Neomet said, they should be USPSA production legal any day, they're already legal for IPSC, and it's the only Shadow that's legal for IDPA in both SSP and ESP. The 75 SA Target is it's SA-only, firing-pin-block-burdened older cousin, if you've got the choice, you don't want the FPB, and you can always make any Shadow SA-only down the road very easily, it'll just have a better trigger than an SA Target as it has no FPB holding it back from reaching it's full potential.

Yeah, it's crazy how big a deal moving the safeties up a 1/4" is as far as adding room on the grip. I think 9 times out of 10 most people tend to subjectively like the feel of a slimmer gun over a thicker one, but objectively, if the thinness means one's hands can't fit into a proper grip and "lock up", then they may actually be worse for good shooting technique than a grip that is too big. With the added room I feel like you get a gun that feels fast-handling and lithe but doesn't compromise the nuts n' bolts fundamentals of getting 360 degree contact.

I've actually gone back to using the VZ G10 grips. Since I changed my extended 75SA-type safeties out for the higher 85-type ones, I now have more room to get my support-hand meat on the gun. Now instead of the VZ's feeling too thin, the thin-ness of the VZ grips allows me lock my support-hand around the gun like it's in a vise. I suppose the CZC thick aggressive checkered grips would feel real close to what I've got now with the VZ's (the CZC thick grips are 1.24" wide, but are a totally flat profile), width-wise the VZ's are 1.20" across the gun but are slightly slimmer towards the frontstrap and backstrap giving them more of an arched profile, which IMHO kind of works better for getting one's support-hand aboard more so than with the aluminum grip's flat-ness. Can't beat the G10 checkering as far as grip goes though IMO, it doesn't look like it in pics, but it's much better than grip-tape, but you can still loosen and shift your hands if you grab a bad hold. I'm pretty happy with how mine feels in my hands now, that said, as pricey as these aftermarket grips are, I'd pay double for a set of the VZ's that were exactly the same except 1/3 to nearly twice as thick as the ones they're making now (which would still be really slim, maybe the same as a 1911 wearing slim-lines), as that would be perfect for me.

Well, 9,000 sounds like it wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the extractor and at least give it a full-on cleaning as there's probably a decent amount of crud stuck back there, might want to change the spring out anyhow once you have it apart... You'll be able to get a good look at the extractor too and if it's chipped or looks worn just take care of it as well, might just be crud though...

Damn, sucks Ken, sounds like some weak sauce. If you've still got the screws intact on that Kensight, might want to try some blue loctite, bring it to the range and get it sighted-in before it dries, but you'll still be able to change it later without it being a PITA. As far as the jams are concerned, I'd guess weak/worn out mag springs first, then maybe beat up extractor or the extractor spring if the gun has a lot of rounds on it..? Those are really the only things that seem to be able to stop the CZ's, weak mag springs being fairly common, extractor issues maybe not so much... Good luck.

To put things another way, or at least as I understand it, IMO hitting right at the top of the blade or slightly higher (say an inch or so depending on ammo) at around 7-10yrds or so is ideal for IDPA and USPSA/IPSC and not really a true 6 o'clock hold... and I think CZC and Angus deliver the guns sighted-in height-wise correctly. I think many shooters treat FO front sights just like a red dot and expect POI to end up where they had the glowing dot when they pulled the trigger, but that leaves one guessing when shooting plates at say 15yrds and beyond because then you'd just be covering what you're trying to shoot (a .125" wide front blade covers up most of a target at 25 yards)... The FO is only there to draw your eyes to the front blade quickly, and close in seeing the FO in the A-zone/Zero-zone is usually all it takes, but it's alignment and the top of the blade that's used for precision... if one wants to go to a different sight height to have POI be the same as where the FO dot is pointed then that is a preference-motivated change, not a correction.

A lot of what POI you're getting depends on how/where your POA is beyond just the load and how tall your front blade is, I wouldn't start changing things out until you're absolutely sure you know what you want to be changing. Pretty sure with the CZC Custom Shadows the POI is supposed to be the top of the blade with factory FMJ like you're using, NOT the FO dot, if you're aiming with the dot and expecting it to print where you're pointing that, then that'd explain why it seems to be shooting high... IMHO rule that out first.

I struggled with the same thing for the longest... what finally cured me was working on my support-hand more so than my trigger press (but that too). I say try to get your grip technique dialed if it isn't already and maybe put some work into increasing your support-hand grip strength, it's amazing how fast your trigger press cleans up once that's really all your strong-hand has to worry about... Maybe shoot a few groups using your support-hand to really clamp down around the gun, aim the thing and generally do most of the heavy lifting (for me, this is THE key to shooting Glocks straight), and then just let your strong-hand stay relaxed and free to just press the trigger straight back, doubt you'll pull any shots. If it works for you, then I highly recommend picking up a CoC gripper... Good luck.

Yeah, just over month with mine too and couldn't really be happier. Tonight I shot not one but two back-to-back no-BS one-whole 3rd groups at 12 yards, on the first one, after the third shot I actually cleared the gun and checked to make sure it wasn't a squib as it very literally went through the same freakin' hole! About the only problem I have with the thing is that for now I've settled on shooting the cheapo plastic grips (acutually kind of dig the way it balences with them too as they weigh nothing) but can't be sure I don't want to try out some tricker grips now that I've changed to the higher 85 safeties, wish they weren't all $75+ to try out, plastic one's in maybe thinner or flatter/different profiles would be fine.

I say get a CTS in .40 and try to wear it out, might hurt a bit more up front, but you'll have it as good as it can get from the start and doubt you'll regret it. Besides, if you were to factor in all the work that's standard on a CTS that you'd likely do to a normal TS anyway, like: sights, competition hammer, CZC trigger, and CZC magwell, aside from the other enhancements like the better grips and frame alteration - it actually becomes sort of a bargain, and you'll pretty much have the top of the food chain CZ with 3 mags that'll run for not much more than a box-stock EDGE with a single mag that would likely need to be tuned... If/When I move to Limited that's my plan anyway...

I guess it's just caveat emptor mixed with a little luck then... if your gun blows up, sucks to be you. I know for a fact that not all manufacturers do business this way and am entitled to my opinion just as those that disagree are entitled to theirs. I honestly am kind of surprised though by the lack of empathy for a fellow shooter and that so many so readily have STI's back in this instance, as if they're really getting so many guns returned with ruptured barrels and slides that even if every single one of them were all caused by double charges it would sting them very much... I mean even the OP's gunsmith offered to replace the slide and barrel at cost and he had nothing to do with it and is just "the little guy" compared to STI, I don't know, guess I'd expect at least the same or more from the original manufacturer. I bet you might feel differently if it had happened to you. Maybe I'm totally wrong, I've just read of many cases where Glock's have went kaboom and the shooters just got a new Glock instead of an excuse or a "sorry, had to be the ammo" is all, and other things as well...

Weak sauce, I would've expected more from STI, being that it was factory ammo they could've taken it upon themselves to settle up with PMC and set you straight and got you back out shooting. JMHO, or maube just my experience, but most guys I know who spend the kind of scratch it takes to to pick up nice upper-tier guns like STI's are not usually the kind of guys who are trying to swindle free stuff or trying to get over on anybody... Taurus might even make it right (might take a while), but if they didn't it wouldn't be that surprising, from a company like STI, it is. Wonder if this has anything to do with the new management? Look, If all of us sent in our STI's where their crappy bluing wore off in the first week, or when their MIM safeties broke, they'd have to shut down their production or hire more staff to turn it around... we put up with them, you'd think they'd give shooters the benefit of the doubt... This bothers me a little, could've happend to any one of us.