DoubleA

Preeetttty

I've put close to 25k rounds through my KKM and like it just fine. The throat is pretty tight so the TC moly bullets sometimes fit pretty snug but all RN molys and all jacketed bullets are slick as butter. The chamber is pretty tight too so when I reload there isn't much effort in resizing the brass. If I had to buy another barrel it would be a Lone Wolf because it is cheaper and I have not heard anything bad about them.

It's about time for an update. I just finished a whole 60 day round of Insanity and have hit a pretty high point in my fitness level. This is also good because the commitment to the program pretty much put a stop to regimented dryfire and I'm ready to crank that back up with Ben Stoegers routine. I also haven't shot much lately due to just being busy with work and not willing to sacrifice what little time with my family I have. All is good though. A buddy of mine is helping me out with ammo till I get back on my feet and the break has been good to let me cool off a bit so I can take on this G35 full force again. I WILL beat this thing.

No pun intended!

I have been mentally battling it out with this subject over the last 3 or 4 years and have gone back and forth multiple times trying to A- find the correct answer and B- duplicate the way that I saw when I shot the best stages of my life. Here is where I am at now: On the subject of eye dominance, I believe that I need to periodically train my right eye to be dominant by method of dryfiring and shooting with the left eye taped. Once I have done that for a length of time I can start shooting with both eyes cleared and not be confused by the double image. My left eye is much stronger than my right so it starts trying to creep the double image in after a while, but being aware of this tendency now let's me know when it is time to train it back. When both eyes are open, everything is so much clearer and allows what I have come to believe is the proper sight picture, for me anyway. On the subject of sight picture, I cannot help but relate this to what you see in first person shooter games as that is what it looked like when Ive shot "in the zone". Imagine you are standing in front of a white wall and not looking at anything in particular, eyes just naturally relaxed and stationary. Imagine there is a laser that is an indicator of center axis of your vision. Then you pull up the gun to the laser and you bring it into focus seeing everything, the sights, the gun, and your hands. You are not staring at the gun or the front sight, but it is however dominating your attention. Everywhere the laser(center of your vision) goes, the gun goes. When you fire the gun you are able to see everything because you do not have your vision set to a specific distance and on a specific spot on the gun. You see it all with perifrials even though it is right in the middle of your vision. Your attention is on the sights while the laser is resting over the top of them. Now imagine an image of a target array is projected on the wall. Your vision and sight attention stay the same and you are seeing everything and focusing mostly with your attention. This for me creates the correct sight "picture" with less association with depth and has given me the best results at every distance. When you tape one eye up it mimics this, but you lose some awareness of when youre trying to focus too hard or not enough. Also, when I make this sight picture correctly and then start moving my vision and gun around together it creates the "floating" effect described in Brian's book. Another reference that got me to try to see this way is from WWII fighter pilots. The guys that saw the enemy planes first and were noted to have amazing locating skills did so by looking for them with their perifrials and not trying to stare directly at them. This I think best describes what I saw "in the zone" as when I look back there was never any reference to depth, just a picture while the gun was firing. The challenge in this, I believe, is seeing specific things in your vision without forming a hard focus on them individually since that is what comes naturally. I may be wrong with all of this, but it is the conclusion I have come to thus far and is subject to change with each trip I take to the range.

Right now I am focusing on my accuracy and have noticed another reason to make sure and shoot groups with your competition gun and power factor. I cannot group worth a crap with my G35 at major pf, but if I run minor pf then everything is as it should be. I can group great with a .22 as well, but as soon as I pick up the full power glock then it all goes to heck. It is a physiological block that I can not seem to get past. The anticipation of recoil along with the extreme desire to make the grade with my weapon just seems to screw all the other fundamentals out of the picture when it is time to fire. The frustration in trying to beat a mental block is unreal.

From what I have heard, the advantage of a JHP is that they are more accurate due to the majority of the weight being around the outer portion of the bullet vs the core so that is better stabilized as it spins in flight. In my opinion, it is a little overkill for the distances that we generally shoot at in USPSA, but I've been wrong before....many, many times.

I have small hands too and I shoot a g35, but you should check out a CZ 75. It fits me perfectly and is the next gun I am getting for competition.

Hahaha, that is awesome. If you look close.... Hahaha

Where are you out of rexican? This all sounds too familiar. I'm pretty much in the same boat only I am very interested in shooting revolver and had convinced myself I was going to get a 625 for my reward for making master with my glock(cuz I suck at it). Then I got into the CZ thing because mastering the glock has been such a chore and I'm ready to shoot a gun that fits me so I can put more focus on everything else that uspsa is about. I will be going back to my STI single stack in .45 as soon as I finish my goal( I'm at 82%) and enjoy the mess out of a good trigger and those big ol bullets until I get the money to get an sp01 shadow and start shooting production and those oh so cheap 9mm bullets.

When I say taped up I just mean that I have a piece of frosted tape on the inside of me safety glasses. In a match I use a little chapstick so I can control the transparency and location a little better. As far as switching goes. I still have not fully decided. Im sure I'm going experiment with it a bit, but I think I'm going to see it through to master as is.

My load for my G35 is 180 grn Bayou Bullets with 4.5 grn WST at an OAL of 1.130. It makes a 169 PF and feels like a smooth push. The hard hard cast bullets will have a pretty close velocity compared to the Bayou's.

My glock has had a Venick super drop in for a while. It never was as good as my buddies, but whatever. It felt pretty mushy with no crispness. Here recently I polished up the stock trigger bar and threw it in and left the Venick connecter and housing with the pre/over travel screws in. I also had to put a medium power FP spring since I was down to CCI primers. I really don't care about the poundage anymore, I just want glass smooth.

If it was the lube, wouldn't it start cycling fine after the first 10-20 rounds as the gun warmed up?

Well things have taken a turn. My funds for shooting have hit $0 and what I have is pretty much it for a while. I also am just about fed up with my G35. It runs fine, but I swear I cannot stop absolute focus on the trigger or my groups past 20 yards just turn to sh*t. It has been a monumental struggle from the beginning and I am just plain sick of it when I can pick up just about any other gun and shoot better. I mean seriously, I can group better at 25 yards with a PM9 that i have shot twice for a total of 75 rnds. I'm so close to making M and this damn gun is going make me earn every last percent with me kicking and screaming the whole way.

I am right here exactly. I'm tired of having to put all my effort into just mastering the glock trigger. I picked up a CZ 75b with at Matt Mink trigger job and the first rounds I fired out of it was the fastest I have ever cleared a Texas Star. A pure joy to shoot. I mean, I'm all about taking on a challenge, but I grow to hate my G35 more and more every time I shoot groups past 20 yrds.

Good job, man!

Some of the variation can come from the bullets themselves. With the seating dies usually touching somewhere on the ogive instead of the very top of the bullet, if the bullets are not absolutely perfectly the same it will change how deep the bullet is seated. What I did was turn the insert in the seating die around so it uses the side that is meant for TC bullets so that when you RNFP bullets are seated, they are touching the deepest possible point of the seating die no matter how much variation there may be in the ogive. I've also considered just filing the RN side completely flat so it works the same way with TC bullets too. By the time the bullet makes it all the way to that part of the die it is already lined up anyway. This at least works with the heavier bullets that have a lot of barrel contact area.

That's kinda what I was getting at with the original post. You see a great many posts about "brand whatever powder is super accurate and what not", but I keep thinking how can that be an absolute truth when there are so many variables in the equation. I see this as especially true when it is so easy for human error to rear its head.

Got an update here. I've moved my draw and fire 1 @ 30 yds to the warm up portion of my range session and started putting the focus on a drill I call 3,5,7,50. It's just an ipsc target at 3,5, and 7 yards then a 8" plate at 50 yards. Draw and engage the ipsc's with two rounds each in order of least to greatest range and then finish with 1 shot on the steel. For the string to count it has to be all A's and hit the steel on the first shot. So that I don't get totally focused on going for time, I only use the timer on every other string. This keeps me focused on seeing what I need to see to make the hits and making sure to follow through. My best run so far has been 3.19 Also, starting this last weekend I decided to have one full stage to shoot my 125 rnds on for as many times as I can. I may start posting the stage description in video and my best run to be critiqued. So this puts me at three session of 125 ish rounds each, two focus sessions and a put it all together session(replaced by matches when they occur). M, here I come!

I have run as low as 3.5 grn WST with MG 180's and it ran flawlessly. I did not get a chance to chrono those, but they knocked over steel and felt great to shoot. I ran probably 800 or so of this load without a hitch. I did not notice any unusual mess from shooting it minor either so it checks out there. BTW I'm running a 13# spring in my G35 that has to be closer to 12# by now. I keep my OAL at 1.130 in my glock since that is as long as I can make them and it run 100%.

So what makes one powder more accurate than another. I assume it is partially attributed to fluctuations in velocity, but other than that, what?

In my G35(KKM barrel), WST felt almost identical to N320. As far as the temp sensitivity goes, my chrono readings haven't been all over the place or anything. I may drop the charge by a tenth of a grain or 2 in the dead of Texas winter, but that's not necessary. WST meters better than N320 in my 550b and believe it or not, it shot WAY cleaner. I'm running 4.5 grn under 180 grn bayou bullets and getting 930 fps with almost no smoke at all. My back up powder is Titegroup. It feels a bit snappier and I can use only 4.3 to make major with jacketed bullets, so that would translate into probably 4.0 for these super slick bayou's. Both great powders and pretty consistent from batch to batch. I like the WST more because of the feel and the fact that it takes up plenty if case for a charge.

If it is both live fire and dryfire I would think it is an issue of not pulling the trigger straight back coupled with mashing the trigger a little harder than necessary. This especially seems evident if the twitch goes the other direction when you switch hands.

I'm the same way with carrying dryfire over to live fire. I believe it has to do with my mental state and attitude, if that's the word, towards firing live rounds and expecting dryfire-like performance. What has helped me a lot in this area is to fire fewer rounds but with more frequent range sessions. It also helps in being more in tune with your cold shooting characteristics. After all most stages you shoot at matches are in essence shot from a cold standpoint.