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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

dukeguy

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    David Bowman 9192

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  1. After watching the video, I completely agree. Sear is catching the hammer but because of the restricted pretravel the trigger bar is not popping up to re-engaging the sear leg. When you pull the hammer back annually it actually pushes up ever so slightly on the sear rotating the leg just enough to clear the trigger bar. Don't take this as an insult but are you sure you are turning the right screw for pretravel, and turning it the right way? I'd be curious to see the sear cage assembly from the bottom, maybe there is a burr or something if you're sure about the pretravel spring... I just tried something else. Racked the slide/hammer, then removed the slide. Pulled the hammer while looking up under the sear cage. The trigger bar pupped up when I pulled the hammer back. Took the trigger out and adjusted the pretravel screw completely down, effectively putting as much pretravel into play as possible. That did it. I guess I just had not taken enough pretravel out. I guess the pretravel screw crept out during shooting. Thanks to everyone who chimed in on this! P.S. Nothing is an insult when you're trying to diagnose from a distance.
  2. Like I said in post #8, I have manipulated the pre-travel screw and it changes nothing. The pre-travel in the trigger never changes no matter where the screw is located.
  3. https://youtu.be/5wmAxSRspGQ In this video I have already racked the slide and hammer. I pull the trigger and nothing happens. When I pull the hammer you'll hear a faint click.
  4. No. It does not reset. I still have to pull the hammer after it has been racked. There is a slight click and it will fire then. I have a video, but haven't been able to figure out how to upload it to my replies.
  5. New piece of info: the pre-travel screw doesn't seem to change the pre-travel at all. I back it almost all the way out and the pre-travel is almost non-existent. Screw it in and nothing changes.
  6. I don't know. I'll play with it and see what happens and let you know.
  7. Nealio, The slide does push the hammer back but it's not in the fully cocked position. I have to pull the hammer back until it clicks a fully cocked position. I'll try to shoot a video of it tomorrow and post it here. The gun is about 5 years old. What have I done to it? Henning trigger, Wolff springs.
  8. My Witness Match 9mm has developed an "issue." When firing, the slide is not racking the hammer all the way into a fully cocked position. Even when I rack the slide by hand it will not push the hammer into a fully cocked position. It's almost like it's in a half-cock position and it has to be pulled back until it clicks into full lock. Hammer issue? Sear issue? Springs? Thoughts and suggestions will be appreciated!
  9. Well, the verdict is in. The Henning trigger will not fit in the Witness PS. As you can see in the pics, I got the trigger attached to the trigger bar without much difficulty. But when it is placed into the cage there isn't enough clearance for the trigger return spring. As you can see, it pushes the trigger forward and the trigger can't be pulled to the rear. I can't see any way to make this work.
  10. Yeah, I know the trigger itself doesn't have anything to do with the pull weight and stiffness. I just like that flat trigger! As for polishing things and clipping springs, I can't seem to find anything in the forum about this. I've searched under every topic I could think of. So if anyone knows where those threads are, please shoot me a link! Thanks!
  11. That seems like a bad idea, since that pin holds the block in place..... Nealio, On this model the trigger pin does not hold the block in place, a small roll pin does. If you'll look at the pic you'll see it just in front of the trigger. The trigger pin is inside and rests in 2 slots in the block. It threads through and holds the trigger spring. I think it is possible to trim down the Henning pin and slide it into those slots.
  12. If you don't mind my asking, have you done this or seen it done?
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