feederic

Thanks for the advice everyone! There is definitely a lot for me to consider here but now I have some great data points. Currently, I load for .44, .45, .40, 9mm, and am starting up on .223 (with military crimps I need removed). I typically load 1-1.5k up at a time.

I've finally decided I would like another reloading press to help save me some time between conversions. Currently I have a LNL AP, and am considering a 1050 or 650. My questions to you experienced Dillon users are, what cons, or nuance nuisances have you all encountered? What would you like improved? I am thoroughly familiar with many of the pros, and would like to hear from those experienced with these presses what has nagged them about either.

I have a question with regards to adjusting feed lips. I have the dawson mag tuning kit and occasionally have to open the lips up. I'd say a majority of the time only one side of the lips tend to open up while the other remains in the same spot. How do you prevent this and keep the adjustment even down the centerline of the mag?

I've seen mention of hog ring pliers that have been ground.

I bought a .45 for limited and I ended up reloading just about every string. I found if I couldn't carry 16-17 rounds on me I might as well only carry 10. Now I have a .40 on the way.

I had to lower OAL on mine too just a tad, that made the difference between 8 and 13 rds.

I have a new limited blaster in the way and can use a durable finish before I start competing with it. Who offers np3 type/ Electroless nickel coatings these days without charging 350-400?

I could only get 9 in mine until I lowered my OAL

What's up with the interesting looking trigger?

Holy crap that's ugly!

How much if an impact on time does using the grx die have? I have a u-die which works great with a lee fcd, no experience with the Hornady.

Thanks again for the advice everyone. I cleaned out the machine, greased her up (appropriately) and discovered the lock nut in the powder drop. The press is running smooth and dropping powder consistently

I agree with Benny! Although I am biased, I battled with my 2011 for 3 months trying to get it to function. 2 weeks with Benny and it hasn't hiccup'd in over 4k rounds.

Thanks everyone, it sounds like some great tips made it my way. I will be taking a look at the powder drop this weekend, taking it apart, and giving it some attention. Based on the pictures I know that I do have the pistol metering assembly in there and not the rifle. I'll check back in once everything is cleaned up and reevaluated.

Thanks for the help! I keep the press relatively clean, and typically lightly oil the bottom of the shell plate. I applied some grease today and it seems to be much smoother. And no, I mean 1 full grain per 100 rounds. I typically recalibrate the drop every 25 rounds or so and check dimensions. This just did not feel right at all. I do have the standard insert and I guess I need to hunt down the lock nut.

I've been loading with my LNL for over a year now, and since I haven't really experienced other properly setup reloading presses I was wondering if I could get a few questions answered here. 1) My shell plate likes to be a little loose, otherwise it feels like it drags on the machine as it rotates through the stages. When it drags it doesn't quite index right or consistently. Is this normal? What can I do to tighten that bolt up and get it to run smoothly? 2) My powder drop creeps about a grain every 100 rounds or so. I bought the LNL used with no directions. Is there a way to adjust the drop so that it throws consistently? I would appreciate any input.

I have been looking at getting a BF20 mill, does anybody have any input on these?

The thing I love about polymer guns is how easy parts drop in, and how cheap they are. Try replacing a steel frame for $40 from the factory while out of warranty.

I always thought my friends CZ TS recoiled much less than my STI in .40.

I called Glock yesterday and paid $40 for an out of warranty frame replacement, not bad! I shipped my lwd barrel out with some lead reloads to get the chamber cut. I'll be shooting the rest if my lead with my lwd then switching to plated or fmj.

I had the Glockworx full setup with titanium striker. I have light strikes though with wolf primers, so I switched out to the stock striker and striker spring for now. I really don't notice the extra pull weight in a match and didn't have light strikes afterwards. I am also running a 15LB ISMI recoil spring on a stainless guide rod. I had sevigny sights but switched those out for kensight adjustables.

I had issues with my LWD causing FTF also, that and it is relatively short chambered. They told me they would rechamber free at the time I am actually about to send mine in. I was in the same boat, new G35, new mags, LWD barrel and FTF.

Ouch! I am still waiting to hear back from Glock, I was only recently able to send it off. My company had layoffs, I figured it would be best to keep my money until I knew I was safe®.

I've been on a foray for 1911 reliability information lately and one thing I've been wondering about is the optimum feed ramp angle on a ramped 1911 barrel. I read about the angle to set on the frame for non-ramped barrels, but I wonder if the angle changes due to a barrel with an integral feed ramp? And are the differences between a ramped and non-ramped barrel moot for reliability in general? Eric

I was wondering if anybody has experienced issues getting grams follower and spring to work in 140mm sti tubes in .45? I have a new tube that seems in spec compared to 5 others and the follower would get stuck inside the taper portion of the mag. I was able to relieve some spots, and the follower now comes up all the way. My new problem is with feed lips set at .415-.420 the back of the follower pops out at slide lock. Are there any guidelines to fix and avoid this in general and in .45 acp?