Skywalker

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...ost&p=49354 http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=450201 E.T.A. I found the original drawings, on white background ...

Just curious to know: here in Italy common price for N320 is about €30 per 1/2 kg (1.1 lbs) keg. If you buy it by weight, from gunshops who buy 25Kg kegs, then you might be able to get near half that price, but (AFAIK) there's only one such source here. Last time I bought 4Kg and paid €120. Can the US market price be more insane than this?

Eric, when 35mm reflex cameras were the standard, and .raw files with photoshop were still to come, a polarizer filter was a nice touch for your pics. With today's tools, a polarizer is just a cheap insurance against scratches on your valuable lenses ... .

Razz, I shoot Standard with an SVI Competition (long dustcover) and run an 11# recoil spring along with a 15# main spring. I shoot 180grs .40" bullets @ 178 PF, powered by a fast-burning (N320) powder. After having tried all sorts of heavier springs combination, this one is what actually suits me best. Maybe in the future I'll try going even lower. This to state that some of us are using light springs in our Limited/Standard blasters as well.

Dunno about hardness when compared to other primers, but here's my experience: I've been loading and shooting CCI small pistol, large pistol, and small pistol magnum primers since 1998 in 9mm, .357", .40" and .45", through S&W 6904, Tanfoglio T95R, Taurus 617, Colt Series 80 Mk IV, SVI Competition. They always worked flawlessly. BTW, None of the above pistols had firing pins replaced with longer ones, they all were standard.

Lately I've switched from rice to domestic rodents litter, namely Friskies Hygiene mais litter. It's very similar to Lyman green corncob media, except it's light brown. I buy it in local stores, it comes very cheap , cleans as rice but doesn't leave any white powder or gunk on brass.

I'll second this. I use a 2GB ZenStone plus. As Light and portable as a shuffle, but this one plays songs in the exact order you store them, or you can browse and start from wherever you want. No video display capability, but I guess that's not what you might be looking for in an mp3 player. Pretty cheap as well: I paid mine € 69 at local Mediaworld.

Another Canadian update in the North America Database: 6 British Columbia ranges, and 9 Nova Scotia ones. N._America.zip

HMO, you should simply tell her that, for personal protection, the choice shall be to carry the smallest/most comfortable gun ... that will still do the job. The latter part is fundamental, otherwise there is no point in having the first ...

They all look like Tanfoglio-produced guns: Map1FS = Combat-Standard with front cocking serrations and low profile rear sight. Map1MS = Carry-Standard, same mods as above. Mapp1 = Force 99 with front cocking serrations and low profile rear sight. Mapp1MS = Force Carry F Pro with different slide profile.

I've been using one for years on my Mark IV Colt .45", then moved it to my SVI Limited. The tap is 4-40 for both, and it will fit. Having said this, I will tell you I switched to a similar (but slimmer) button, made by Gans: thin classic; I have two, one for my Limited SVI and one for my SingleStack Colt. It provides (for me) the same ease of reach, but doesn't get depressed when the gun is lying flat on a table ...

1 Kgf = 9.81 N, there's the gravity constant in between ... 1 N = 1 Kg * 1 m /s^2, while 1 Kgf = 1 Kg * g (g being equal to 9,81m/s^2)

DJPoLo and his picture ... ETA: damn, Dave, let me finish posting before you unveil the solution ...

Northrop T38 Talon: it's a twin-seater supersonic advanced trainer, which later on gave birth to F5 Freedom Fighter. F20 Tigershark was a late attempt to enhance the F5 to compete for a single-engine, low cost fighter whose destiny has been doomed by the enormous success of F-16. Not sure about the last ones, turboprop trainers, but it looks like it could be a derivative of the Swiss Pilatus PC9, the one that won the JPATS bid for a basic-advanced trainer for USAF. I could be wrong on the Pilatus model, not sure if it was PC9, PC11 or any newer model.

Mitch, thanks for clearing things for me. I had erroneously thought that spring constant would have been measured as in physics, didn't know they were using this method, measuring the force needed to fully compress the spring that is.

Hmmm .... I'm not really sure it is ... Let's see: since spring elastic constant is force divided lenght (F = k*x , thus k = F/x), in metric units it is normally expressed in Kgf (force, not mass) / m. I assume the equivalent in imperial units of measure shall be Lbf / ft. Now 1 Kgf = 2.2 Lbf, and 1 m = 3.28 ft. Thus Kgf/m = 3.28/2.2 Lbf/ft = 1.491 Lbf/ft A 5.09 Kgf spring should then be a 7.6 Lbf/ft one, and a 5.59 Kgf spring should be a 8.33 Lbf/ft one.

2006 FO (the only one that I shot) was a 10 long courses (32 rounds each) match. Expect open, mostly static, paper targets with at least 1/3 of them beyond 18/20 yds distance. Few swingers, some activated by metal targets, some by AWESOME props (refigerator door and bowling ball come to mind). Very few steel targets, maybe no more than 10% of the total targets count. Small arrays of targets, scattered over the whole CoF, some running-and-gunning but lotsa ports and windows as well. Be prepared to memory stages: looks like FG is fond of stages where you will be able to see the same target from many different positions, and this will pretty much cause troubles if you don't have a rock-steady practice of counting rounds and targets during your walkthrough.

OK gents, another update with 35 new Canadian ranges, from Alberta and Ontario. Thanks to all those that contributed so far. N._America.zip

Hi Mike, you're welcome. BTW, do you know who could contribute to the canadian part of the DB? Right now it consists of one single entry ...

I've been shooting my SV "Lightsaber" since 1999. It's bone stock except for a bit of contouring on the grip and the right safety lever, I made by myself with a dremel and the STI SS magwell (it's a bit wider than its SVI counterpart). So far, it has been 100% reliable: in 8 years I had less than 2 handfuls of jams, that can be traced to: a.) Old brass which was no longer chambering. b.) Old mag springs in my box-compliant 19-rounders that I forgot to replace in 2 years or more c.) Too dirty gun, since I shoot lead in practice and only clean it after 1.5/2K rounds (but I do use a lot of Slide-Glide ... ).

Nice to read it ... I and my training buddies always end a training session with this accuracy game: SG hull on a stick @ 25m, common firing line, you take one step forward and shoot the hull, then (if you miss) step back, it's next guy's turn. With 4 people, it doesn't normally take more than 5/6 shots in total to knock it down, ant the winner gets free drink after packing.

On the draw that deteriorated in the last few weeks: it sounds (albeit just guessing here) like you've become a bit sloppy in performing the draw. I mean, you just reached a new plateau, maybe you have started to lull yourself in pleasant thoughts like "hey, I'm getting real good at this" and started to pay less and less attention to what you do in that case. Think of it like being on the range since a few hours and a few hundreds of rounds: if you're not really attentive, you might just start shooting by habit and not watching your sights or calling your shots, and this shows up on the targets with lousy hits or even mikes. Can't comment on the scoop: I have done it for some time, but it didn't work for me as I was not able to grip the gun correctly, thus after a few months of practicing it, I switched back to the normal up-down-up draw. Definitely more consistent for me. On what to do when something like what happend to you at the match comes in: I'm by no means a top or even good shot, so please take my words with a grain of salt. I slow down, I totally forget about speed, splits and rushing, I settle down on pure accuracy (OK, well, in relative terms, you can still time me with a timer and not with an hourglass...) and stick with it for the rest of the stage. My reasoning is: I screwed it up badly in the beginning, and I might already be 10/15% behind what I could be. If I start forcing and rushing it, I will inevitably add new and maybe bigger screw-ups to the already tanked stage, and I can't afford this. By no means I'm able to consciously think "I'm going 110% to make up the initial mistake" and have this happen. I'll pretty much crash and burn if I ever try to do it, and I don't believe in luck enough to expect this to happen to me. So, in the end, my looser plan is to try and make the most out of a stage that I started with an handicap, and this means not loosing anything else.

Shoot it until it starts cracking at the mouth. You'll definitely hear a cracked brass while separating them from the tumbling media: just rock them a couple of times on the palm of your hand, and you'll hear a different, false note if there is a cracked brass in. Sort it out and go on.

... this is easy ... for me it's necessary to know I don't have a sore pinkie ... Ok, back on topic ... First of all a question: are you looking for a confirmation the mag went in, or the mag will go in? To me this is most important, because it determines the moment you'll be shifting your focus from the gun/mag/magwell/whatever back to the target. I rely on visual/feeling input that will tell me the mag is in. The index finger of my weak hand points towards the magwell, while bringing the mag up there. As soon as the index finger comes near the magwell, I start to open my weak hand, mag pushed and supported only at its base by the weak hand palm. If I don't get any feedback of the top bullet getting stuck on the magwell/grip, at this point I know the mag will go in and shift my focus back to the target.

Hi again gals and guys. Thanks to a HUGE contribution by David Cross, the North American database now features some 255 US-Based ranges. N._America.zip I updated the European DB as well, with 5 new entries. Europe.zip