DyNo!
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Posts posted by DyNo!
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Or a Taurus PT1911?
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I bring two 48 round Nordic P-mags and two 30 round P-mags.
I used to carry a 20 but like others, I've used it once in two years.
I shoot long range bullets at everything.
Why pay $250 for a match and skimp on 150 rounds of ammo?
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Tag
When I played with light bullets in an open gun, I experimented with pushing them at 1400+ FPS using HS-6.
Without a comp though, that probably wouldn't be too comfortable.
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I would buy 1X over 1.25X.
In 3-Gun, your scope will be powered down most of the time and a good 1X scope is more appropriate for 80% of our shooting than a magnified optic.
1.25x could take more effort to shoot at close range.
I say could since it's reasonable to completely obstruct the entire optic and shoot accurately with both eyes open. Some folks can't do that and if you can't, you're in the crowd that will be taking a bit of extra time to determine which reticule/target is the "true" one when shooting a 1.25 power scope instead of a 1x.
If you're using your right eye to sight through a 1.25x - your right eye will see everything bigger + a reticle.
Your left eye will see 1X. When your brain puts them together, you'll have to remember that everything that is bigger with a reticle on it is where the bullets are going to land. If you shoot with both eyes open and ignore that, there's a possibility that your bullets will be off starting with the distance between your eyes and increasing/decreasing to a larger distance as you get further away like a big "X"(Parallax). That's not a huge hindrance to overcome for some.
The trouble comes when it's a small difference between both eyes. On 4x with both eyes open, it's obvious which image is magnified and which one is not. When we're talking about 1x and 1.25x, that means the targets will appear more similarly and this could be a problem for some when the task is to put a bullet on a brown paster at 10 yards.
With a good 1X scope, you don't have to do that - bullets go closer to the point of aim regardless of which eye you "focus" on.
Check this out:
Let's say you're shooting at this red circle. The correct sight picture is the one with the crosshair on the center of the circle. The smaller offset one is what your left eye would see.
With a 1X scope, you would be able to take the shot and hit reasonably close to the center with either focus - with a 1.25x, you'd better be focusing on the correct eye if you want the bullet to hit certain targets. (Small/distant ones)
Even with GOOD 1X scopes, the red circles in the diagram are not identical - they're just VERY similar.
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I get the feeling that in many courses, higher capacity will not help. (Like an 8 round course or a course with mixed rounds, I'm certain there will be many)
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Shoot a slower powder & it will not happen.
Truth.
I burnt the piss out of my breechface with 4.0 grains of Titegroup and Fed SP Mag primers. The problem went away when I went back to WSF.
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They're probably considered "armor-piercing" as well...
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Doesn't a compensator have to be attached to the firearm to have any perceivable effect?
(Physically speaking)
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I've got a Taurus 1911 9mm. Runs fine and shoots fist sized groups at 25 yards.
Does the job for me but your mileage may vary.
I got the gun to beat up on.
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Dump it.
I loaded and shot mixed powder once but the powders I accidentally mixed had VERY similar charisitcs and the ratio of one to the other was VERY high.
Those are not the same circumstances in your post and I'd burn it.
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I have access to an ultrasonic cleaner and I'm wondering if anyone knows if it would take BBI moly out of a barrel...
If not, I'll just stick with Montana Gold.
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I have an Open Benelli that runs with 26" of barrel and 14 rounds in the gun.
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Hopefully they'll be available online before the end of the year.
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Are they still in business?
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Software that prints a picture that looks like my reticule and has yardage marking for my bullet drop reticule.
Not to hijack the thread, but try this application at Vortex Optics ( http://www.vortexoptics.com/content/lrbc ). One of the tabs is a "ballistic reticle", where you can print out a drop chart with BDC, MOA, or MRAD reticle.
Ryan
Thanks but the only problem is that I have a Burris XTR and a Elcan SpectreDR (Not available as images).
I make my own but if there were a program that did it for you, one could sell it.
You might run into copyright issues since many companies protect their reticules. (That's probably why that program doesn't exist)
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Software that prints a picture that looks like my reticule and has yardage marking for my bullet drop reticule.
(There is no program that does this...)
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Mine works - shoots tight too.
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Not Titegroup for Moly like he said.
Not HS-6 for minor.
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Even in outlaw multigun, it pays to shoot "stout" Open minor ammunition.
You've got to have gas to work that comp...
(7 grains of HS-6 under a 115 does it for me)
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I need to give it a shot.
Until then, I'm going to claim this:
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I watched this argument go on for a year.
I'm just going to shoot TO like everybody else.
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2652 FPS Average out of my 1:8 Lothar Walther 17".
I was shooting Hornady Steel practice ammo - it might be hotter.
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Welcome to the forum!
I do suggest you stick with the sight pictures below though and sight in the pistol yourself.
No, iron sights are not sighted in for everyone. (But they can be damn close depending on the different users hold)
As long as you have a consistent cheek weld and sight alignment, the actual position of both sights can have nothing to do with bullets on paper.
For example, here's a picture - all could be from the same shooter and produce desirable results:
I doubt anyone will argue that you should not zero the sights while they're aligned but as long as you see what you need to - you can make the shot.
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It wouldn't be a huge difference but the only time I shoot commercial powder is for major matches anayway and one pound for $25 will carry me through six matches a year. I'll take every advantage I can get.
Daylight bright illuminated scopes
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
The Elcan SpectreDR is daylight visible.