Sarge

Walmart pharmacy can order a jar for around $13. But the other posters were right about finding tubes in the breast feeding section there and at pharmacies. It really is not sitting there with a 100% LANOLIN label on it.

Can't go wrong with gray. Maybe a button down collar with black tie. Hey, they wear ties at Mike's carwash!

I see 9mm brass on gunbroker listed as commercial brass. Does this mean military? Anyone know a reputable dealer on there? Or who to stay away from? Thanks

I plink with a guy who looks at me like I am crazy when I am working up new loads. He will never ever shoot a reload in his Ruger. He said the book says not to so that's the way it is. Period.

Got everything up and running and thought I would post some observations that might come in handy for another newb like me who might be in the market for a loader. 1. Call Brian if you are even thinking of ordering a Dillon. It just plain don't make sense to do it any other way. He was honest about what I needed and what I could do without. He answered every question I threw at him while making me seem like his only customer that day. 2. Buy the best package you can afford. For the average shooter out there anything with the Dillon name on it will be all you will ever need. 3. Go digital. I know there are diehards out there that don't like or trust them but they are worth every penny if used properly. This includes scale and calipers. 4. Stand while you load if you are physically capable. I read so many posts that said to stand and thought they were nuts. About 15 minutes later I got rid of the bar stool. It just works so much better. 5. The Dillon CV750 is plenty big for me but I wish I would have at least got the bigger separator. The small one is a little tight to poor the whole load in to. 6. Buy plenty of primer tubes. I already see where you can never have enough. 7. The Dillon case guage is great. I compared it to my barrel and made sure of what would fit then put the gun back together and forgot about it. No need to have a torn apart gun laying around. 8. Use case lube. Most on here recommend it and I know why. I ran a test and it is crazy how much of a difference lube makes. I just used ACE silicone spray but will eventually get one shot. 9. Use walnut shells and then corn with polish if you want new looking brass. All I can say is it works best for me. And believe me I tried every combination until I found what worked. 10. I don't have one, but get a chrono. It is like shooting in the dark without one. I loaded 100 rounds and technically (though I am sure they will)have no idea how they will work for me let alone if they will make PF. 11. Visit this forum every day and read, read, read. 12. Solid bench with a ton of lights, a radio and some mountain dew should just about round it out. Thanks to all who contributed to my selections even though you may not know you did. Oh. These are just my humble opinions.

I thought of attaching velcro to the wall beside the loader then just sandwiching the tubes in and pulling loose for a new tube. I settled for now on a cut off water bottle screwed to the bench beside the loader. It works if you don't try to yank one out as fast as you can. I read somewhere that one guy just lays them down under the strong mount but thought that was not a good idea because the primers might turn or roll inside the tube. Thought I read that here too. I am keeping my eyes open for something like a fishing rod holder of sorts. You know, the kind with rubber slots that could be screwed to the wall or bench. Let me know what you come up with as I am always looking for a better mouse trap.

Amazing!! Alan I dug it out. It did not even occur to me to push forward. Duh... Thanks alot

Sorry JT I am still trying to figure out how to quote individual sentences. As far as getting the primered cases out by lifting the ram only one would come out that way. The other one as I said is just barely in so it sticks way out and won't clear the shell plate. How does running the primer tube dry result in upside down primers? I ended up with primers in the cup right side up because there is no way to shut them off.

OOPS spoke too soon. Can't quote a specific sentence only the whole post.

Bingo

If this works, I cut and paste your statement and hit the wrap in quote tags icon, 2nd from right end, below thhe fonts drop down. Been wondering myself but hadn't found a good place to try it. Test message If this works thanks alot calmwater.

I asked flex to point me in the right direction. This ain't it. I am more of a shooter than a computer guy. I really would like to know how to use the quote feature. I have tried different variations but can't seem to get it right. Oh well, let the games begin I guess.

I thought it might make a good thread. (and I am a bit busy to answer it myself right now....) I use the quote button, once it turns red I hit reply....Wala! I sense a trick question here....

Hey all. Got the new 550 going this week and had a few minor problems/questions. But let me say the thing seems to be a fine piece of equipment. Loading 9mm w/wsp 1. Do I need to lube this thing right out of the box? Worked fine, just curious. 2. I had two out of 100 primers fail to seat all the way, one went about half way the other just barely went in. a. I loosened the shell plate to get these boogers out. Is that the only way? b. Cause? Brass not military. Could I just be too afraid to push harder. They were way tighter than the other 98. I know one was a winchester brass. c. How hard is too hard? I don't mind throwing them away but it sure jams everything up for awhile, what with clearing the shell plate and all. I just see alot of the pro's on here saying to NEVER force a primer. d. could I have just been "limp wristing"? 3. What is the best way to get a new primer out of the cup? I used a toothpick (gently) 4. I had some occasional powder bar "chatter" on the return. Normal? Problem? Other than these minor bugs oal stayed very consistent, powder charge stayed right on, crimp was good, glock bulges gone, all passed case guage. Thanks in advance

I see the light. I see the light. I see the light.

Just to add to frandoc's specs, The clearance needed for the primer tubes and follower is only about 3" or so from the front of the shelf. Remember to mount the loader an inch or so off the front edge to allow any doors to close since it sticks out some from the strong mount in front. A few other things that worked for me: I mounted a set of lights on the wall to the left of the loader. It lights up the powder drop station like New York City. I mounted my 550B more to the left side of my meager 48" bench in order to have room on the right side to do odds and ends like lubing brass, weighing, measuring, boxing, etc. I just left enough room on the left side to have plenty of elbow room. It just woorked for me to do most chores on the right side. The point being, mounting in the center of a small bench (cabinet) gives no room on either side to work. Hope this helps

Blade Tech here as well. DOH

I can't believe it! Am I the only one who thinks The Scorpions are right up there at the top? I have seen them and AC/DC live. AC/DC kicks serious ass but The Scorpions kick just a tad harder to me.

Hey chris whats up? Yeah yeah I hear ya'. But somebody will have me convinced that one is better than the other by tomorrow. I see your name at or near the top of the results page at Miamisburg every week. I still plan to make it up there one of these weeks. Maybe you can help get me started? Later

Quick question. Should I weigh with the clear cover on or off? It shows 1/10th grain less with cover on. Example 4.0 titegroup reads 4.0 cover off 3.9 cover on. Which is right? I would guess cover on. No air movement or any outside influences. If I weigh a bullet it does same, exactly .1 less. Thanks

Had stones twice. About two years apart and both while in Colorado Springs. Thank god they were attributed to the water according to my Doc. Never had another. Yes I puked all the way to the hospital but luckily I passed both with lots of screaming and a little blood. It felt like a sharpened nail being dragged along the base of my wee-wee when they passed. But I have to go on record as saying they are nothing compared to appendicitis which I also have had the privilege of enduring. Both pretty painful though

IDPA yes USPSA not yet

UPDATE!! Did fingerprints and photo for Fl ccw. cost $25 Mailed application to Fl with a check for $117. Total $142 to get Fl ccw. Advantages: good for 7 years now (Ohio good 5 years). Never need to take ccw training again to renew (Ohio need to retrain every 10 years). Managed by Fl department of Agriculture, therefore, according to the instructor, it is not in a public data base. Fl covers 33 states (Ohio 18) combined coverage 36 states. Overall, it was a pretty good class. Not too many war stories. The funniest (scariest) thing I heard was: The instructor was talking about a cop who shot himself in the leg while tearing apart his Glock. (pulling trigger) The guy across from me looked at his wife and said, "We can vouch for that since we have a hole in our coffee table, ha ha ha". They got quite a kick out of remembering that. But it scared me to think about it. Like one poster said the class was full of people who had no business being there.. Later

Hey all I am going to CCW tomorrow in Ohio(Springfield). They offer to process for Florida CCW for $25.00. Anyone have insight into this. I am guessing a Florida CCW is more restrictive and will include more states? I plan to pay the $25.00 since I am nearly 50 years old and may end up in Florida more frequently in my "golden years" and want to be legal. Any info is appreciated.

Blazer Brass 9mm @walmart $8.97 a box. Good brass to keep also.