burningsquirrels

If you're comfortable with it, run with it.

Cool, so it's in excellent low round count condition. Again, take your total cost to replace new and subtract a percentage.

Depends on condition. Total it all up what it's replacement cost is, then subtract 20-30 percent. Percentage depends on condition, of course.

yup. find out what is in your area and visit the clubs. idpa, uspsa, steel, bowling pin, bullseye, they all have different ideas as to what the best type of gun is. see what the others in that sport shoot, and emulate.

yes, the new style trigger pin is a must. i recently ordered a few of them. they much easier than trying to re-set the roll pins. if you compete and need lightning reloads, the flat mag brake is a must... polishing the underside of the slide and beveling the breech face helps reliability to prevent first round walk, that can prevent a mag from dropping free. also, make sure that when the trigger is pulled and the sear is in the 'up' position, that the hammer hooks don't drag the underside of the sear. allow the trigger overtravel screw to let the trigger move back until the sear is fully clear of the hooks. you don't want the half-cock hooks slapping the sear, this causes premature wear and potential doubling.

Check my sear guide at czforumsite.info in the gunsmithing section to trim the safety leg of the sear. There is also a thrread by me to convert to SAO there. Pretty easy.

The way to look at it is to see what type of competition you want to shoot. Every sport has its regulations as to what kind of gun is ideal and/or meets rule requirements. Since you won't be competing soon as you say, I would get something that is all around that you can always upgrade later. A plain 75b or 226 would work, or any of the other good guns out there. When you are ready and know what sport you are going into, read their rules and base your final decision on a competition gun then.

Held the poly model once, it's lighter in weight and is just a little different feeling over the metal. The metal frame can be had with a variety of grips depending on your hand size, and the extra weight soaks up the recoil.

"Are Sigs unsuitable for competition?" Ask Max Michel. They are excellent guns. If competition is what you want, you'll be comparing only two models here: the CZ SP-01 SHADOW versus the Sig X5 All-Around. Don't buy equipment until you've handled ALL your options, and that whatever you buy is the most comfortable for YOU to shoot. Sig or CZ, they will both be good running tack drivers.

I voted SP-01 tactical. Wether manual safety or decocker, it's up to you. Go to a gun range and rent both CZs and Sigs, and pick which works best for you. The ergonomics are very different between the two.

YMMV at your own risk, a popular load is 3.9-4.0 of titegroup under a 124-125 grain jacketed bullet at 1.090".

Heck yes!

Thanks for your hard work! I got it on my phone, and will see how it works later tonight.

Sub inch groups should be easy with quality ammo or handloads off a benchrest.

Could be premature activation of the slide stop like walkure says. Also check the strength of mag springs, the bottom of the breech face, magazine lip width, and that your ammo (particularly the nose profile of the bullet) doesn't bump or interfere with the slide stop during loading. How high is the round count on the gun, or how many rounds since things were replaced?

Eleven thousand rounds ain't much on a CZ. Sounds like a season or two of shooting. I have about 22k through one of mine and it still runs great.

Awesome!

Opps! I forgot about the longer magazines. Yes, you will need the SP-01 magazines, but the magwell does fit in the IPSC box.

Yes. Use the extended ones for standard length magazines. Check the descriptions for info. Don't forget the extra power springs.

You will need longer base plates to use a magwell. http://czcustom.com/CZ_base_pads.aspx

are you talking about the ejector or the extractor in the slide? if it's the extractor... strip the slide, then use a pin punch to drive out the pin holding the extractor. while the pin punch is holding the extractor in place, hold the slide with your hand over the ejector and carefully remove the pin punch. the extractor may be under heavy pressure so be careful you don't lose anything.

I was running them long I guess because I was under the thinking that having bullets closer to the rifling was for better accuracy and that longer rounds mean softer loads and being easier on brass..... But if it don't work then it don't work. I also started having some problems on the press where the bullets don't get seated evenly which doesn't help, I will be ordering a new seat die to help out with that.

Yeah, I bought my TS used and it came with a grip reduction already done. I actually liked the huge grip, but the smaller grip is growing on me. I filled it out a tad using thick grip tape across the entire surface.

Are you just getting misfeeds, or are the followers/springs actually binding? I had problems very early on with the followers (and even the spring coils) transitioning from the pad to the tube; fixed it by knocking off the interior edges on the bottom of the tubes with a needle file. This is also why I run new guns in practice quite a bit before bringing one out to a match. (Luckily, I haven't had an actual failure with the TS in a match yet - operator errors galore, but nothing that was the fault of the gun or mags.) misfeeds, nose down. what makes me mad is that it never happens during testing, only matches. this is probably the Nth stage in a row where it did this. it either does a misfeed, or i have a reset problem. but this isn't a whine about my TS thread, lol. note that the the nose down or misfeed happens anywhere in the mag, whether one of the first rounds (like this video), or approaching the last. edit: actually, in the first half of the video, you can hear the ro and a couple buddies of mine making sure i'm using a different mag because one of the other ones was also screwing up that night, lmao...