burningsquirrels

i wouldn't bend the mag brake until we were sure that it was what's causing the problem. it should be flat from the factory for the TS. if it is in fact bent, i would ask angus to send me a new one. howeve,r he says that the marks on his magazine are on the side where the mag release is, so i'd be most suspect of the mag button first.

the FFL? the proper fix in that case is to either send it back to CZ-USA ($$) or remove some material from the offending area on the magazine release.

Yup. Go back to the CZ Forum and see my reply over there.

Should I take the grip panels off to see if it helps? If it helps at all, I noticed rub marks on the mags already. I have to wait until the gun get outta jail to try these things out. :cali: Thanks Where are the marks on the magazines? Also see my post over on CZF.

OK guys, I'm trying to button down my TS combo. Tonight I had some feed issues out of one mag, but alas: I forgot to number my mags. I was wondering if anyone has a new or like new TS mag, and what the feed lip gap is. I noticed some size difference mag-to-mag, including at what angle the bullet is presented to the feed ramp of the barrel. Magazine 1 Nose .396 Rear .390 Magazine 2 Nose .388 Rear .384 Magazine 3 Nose .392 Rear .384 Magazine 4 Nose .391 Rear .389 I had one jam again tonight. I had already cleared it before I remembered to look at what it was. The round that was recovered had a flat gouge on the outer nose, like it either caught on the bottom of the feed ramp or nosed-up into the top of the chamber. I noticed that mag 2 points the bullets up while mag 4 points them more foward. What do you guys think? What are your measurements? Ammo is 180 grain zero flat point set at 1.172" OAL and 4.75 of TG. Mags are running Angus' big basepads.

Whoops forgot to say I got it used. It came with a bunch of spacers, but no other springy fingers. I guess I'm looking for the same level of retention that I was able to achieve with my 40B. I toyed with it again after the post, and it feels unsettling because it's not just when I draw, but when bumped from behind.

So, I was able to get most of the small adjustments in. The trigger guard is very narrow, so I had to make spacers to pinch in the trigger guard as best as I could while still being stable. I was doing some dry fire in my basement and accidentally left my holster locked. With a strong pull on the draw, I both realised that 1: my trigger guard was still locked and 2: it came out anyways. I'm a little worried. Just walking around and such it's not going anywhere. But, I found that a good knock from the rear will send it tumbling out of the holster. When I set up my CZ-40b limited 10 gun, I tried yanking it from my holster, and it didn't go anywhere, including the 'knock from rear' test. That is not the case with the new Tac Sport. Below is a picture of what I think the problem is. I do not believe that the springy finger thing goes deep enough into the trigger guard, or the knobby thing in there isn't aggressive enough. Is there a replacement piece I can put in there? Thank guys!

I realize it's apples and oranges, but it was the closest thing I could come up with at the time when it happened. At the end of the day, exactly as Alan described. I never made contact with anything outside the shooting area, and the last thing I touched was the shooting area. Since it wasn't exactly specified about 'feet in the air' in the rulebook, I was just trying to make an analogy to other sports where the same thing can happen.

I've been known for doing this more than once, lol. BUT, in my case, i was leaving the shooting area,and fired shots as my foot was leaving the shooting area. All shots were fired before my feet touched anything outside the shooting area. Both times the target was point blank, and just around a corner. Both times it was a target you run to. I figured instead of trying to brake, just keep running and doubletap it when i get there. both times it was scored as within the box. Think of it this way: in basketball, you can have shots "from the 3-point line". if a player is running full tilt, and jumps before the 3 point line, shoots in mid air, and lands after the 3 point line, and he/she makes the basket, is it a 3 point basket? I believe so. What do you guys think of that?

excellent work! too bad you weren't local, i've been wanting a humidor cabinet over a wine rack lately for my upcoming cigar room.

different... for two years i came close to winning GA state L10 c class. first year i just knew guns for 8 months. woulda taken 1st place but load went minor by a longshot on factory ammo. second place was 680 match points, i had 718. when i went minor i went down to 678.x i think... i tried my reloads later and they made 165.5, lmao. second year (last month) i shot a decent match but zero'd the last stage when the rain was sideways. the timer washed out and i got a re-shoot. on the reshoot, mud somehow caked inside the gun and disabled it for the rest of the day. ironically, if i shot limited C, i coulda won 3rd place with a zero'd stage and minor power factor ammo and 10 round mags, lol! third year in 2010, i'm going all out. gun is cz-40b with SAO trigger and home made flat grips.

another thought of mine. hell, eff it all. reward people who beat those with higher class and nicer guns, and those with nice guns and higher classes will claw to stay on top. i think this would be way simpler, and just call it the brawler or grudge cup, lmao. of course, the above leaves some deficiencies. it doesn't reward shooters that shot well who are on the bottom, unless we award place points based upon how many cup shooters show up, or award place points by giving one point per cup shooter beaten. then again, it kills someone to miss one night.... could toss out one highest scoring night and one lowest scoring night, then average points per night as the final score.... hmm..... needs more thought.

so here's an update... after some talking.... basically there's two gaps that need to be leveled out. one gap is the skill gap, the other is the equipment gap. one option is to poll the shooters for their openness to making it all limited/minor division rules. this allows everyone to basically shoot what they got, short of an open gun. pro guys can load up their mags, limited guys step down to minor PF. open guys, well, they rpobably already own pro/lim guns anyways. that's option #1. if the pol shows that folks are in the majority of this, cool. but chances are they may not, and we'd need to find an equipment gap. the other option... well, i was talking to a buddy and we came up with a single handicap that does both skill and equipment - since we only get about 20ish shooters every wed. night... we might have a couple sketchy ways of going about it. for example, i'm 58.84% as an L10-C shooter. let's pull up my friend, with an 83.64% as an Open-A shooter. how do we cover that gap of skill and equipment? do you guys have any idea? i'm punching numbers at the moment. one thought was to use national classifiers to weight the scores.... but my objection was that national classifier %s are per division, not per combined divisions. for example, an HF of 5.0 on CM-six chickens yields 60% for open, 83 for production, and 90 for revolver. am i seeing this in the wrong light? as an example, let's say max match points possible is 280. for open-A shooter of 84%, the max match points for him is (280*.84) 235.2 - so if he gets a match point score of 236.2, he gets a point. for me, my max match score is 162.4, so if i end the match with 172.4, i get 10 points, and so forth. question is, would this work?

Yup. The cake guy was wierded out when I told him what I wanted and showed him pictures. In the end, he got the details pretty good right down to the rail, cz rollmarks, grip checkering, pins, sights, etc.

Another idea: rank people by the place they finish.. they get 8-6-4-2-1 points depending on place. master gets 1 bonus point, a gets 2, b gets 3, c gets 4, d gets 5.....

Here's something I thought of, let me knwo what you guys think: GM - +0% M - +5% A - +15% B - +25% C - +40% D - +60% handicap is applied to total match points. place/points 1st - 5 2nd - 4 3rd - 3 4th - 2 5th - 1 I tried it on some of our match results, and it seems to balance out our GM with the lower B/C shooters.

Thanks for the input guys. If we went with top shooter, the same one person will win every time, which is what makes the handicap thing difficult. BritinUSA, I like that idea! I'll get back to you guys. I'm going to play with some match scores and see if I can find a middle ground.

Hello, Our local club shoots every Wednesday, and we're thinking about holding a points series to promote participation and competition. Originally I thought of doing a "Production Cup" in which we all shoot our production guns for either 6 or 8 pre-scheduled matches, and then tally up the points at the end. Our main problem is, I'm guessing we have a dozen production shooters. Not sure if more would join just for this series. I'm trying to come up with either a handicap for lower classed shooters. Otherwise, our GM will just run away with the cup. I'm trying to make it fair for everyone. The other option other than a handicap would be to have a trophy for each class, but what if there's only 1 or 2 in a class? I think we have one GM, one A, two B's, the rest Cs and Ds. Another final option was to use some kind of scoring matrix. For example, if a GM places in a match, he could get 3 pts for 1st, 2 pts for 2nd, 1 pt for 3rd... Whereas a M could get 4-3-2, A gets 5-4-3, B gets 6-5-4, etc. Do you guys have any suggestions? Thanks!

i tried on two sets of rydons tonight from a couple shooters. i guess i have a wide face? the sides of the glasses covered them OK, but for me it only covered me to the outer corners of my eyes, not quite to the 3 o'clock position i thought they might i guess. maybe i need to look at some glasses with wide side arms to cover that area. otherwise, if coverage is the same between the three, i may go zyon. i located a dealer through the website and will call them tomorrow and ask if they have the models in stock so i can see what's right for me. i appreciate the feedback!

Seems like most everyone who has RP glasses go Rydon, but I think I like the style of the Noyz or Zyon glasses much better. Has anyone tried them on and seen how much side coverage they provide? I noticed that at least with the Noyz, RP includes some side wings. Don't know if that's for side protection or what. Anyone got pics of them wearing them? I searched BE for RP but didn't seem to find anything back through 2004. Thanks, guys!

loadmaster set up to run 9mm.... 1. lee size/decap 2. prime only 3. lee expand/powder drop 4. lee bullet seater 5. lee FCD brass is all range pick-up (as it has been for a long time), cases are cleaned/polished and then lubed before being loaded. dies still have low mileage, only about 4k. press was completely torn down recently, with each part cleaned and lubed as part of regular service. I used to be able to just run it progressively and have a party with no problems in terms of sizing... But now, I started to run into a lot of loaded rounds that won't pass my case gage, and the problem has been getting worse. last 1/4" or so of the case is the problem. i started running one round at a time. i found that if i size a die once, there's a 50/50 chance of not passing the case gage. if i take the brass that fails, and insert it 90* from original, run it through, and continue for a total of 4 times at each 90*... then the brass passes the case gage. at first i thought it could be base bulged brass - but if that's the problem, then why does rotating it and running it through the sizing die again fix it? does this sound like the sizing die could be out of round? Here's another thing I tried. I had a spare turret, so I removed my sizing die and put it in. I ran through 10 pieces of brass, and 6 did not make case gage after the first pull. Of those seven, 4 of them passed after running them through and turning and repeating a few times. I could order an EGW/Lee .001" undersize die... darn things are back ordered 2 months or more as per their website. It helped me with some of the (occasional) bulged cases for my 40 brass in position #2. I think my biggest problem now is finding something to work in the interim. What do you guys think? Thanks...

Personally, I'm in horrible physical condition. When I breathe normally, the gun moves around a bit. I usually focus on exhaling, but only very, very slowly. When performing a well-aimed trigger pull, I usually bring everything about me to a stop. Shooting while on the move - if I have to do this for longer than my breath can go, I will do a quick inhale and repeat the slow, slow exhale.

There's a 'pro army marksmanship' video on youtube about shooting on the move... that or a Blackhawk video with Todd Jarrett. one of them covers box movement. In this picture, I needed to move right while reloading. The movement is 90 degrees to the right about 10 yards. I dropped my weight off of my right leg to prep me for the launch and lower my center of gravity, while bringing my left over, and I'm pushing off with my right. I think my right leg is extending out in this picture.

On my SP-01 I just get my hands up as high as I can. To get an idea of my grip, wedge the web of your right hand up high in the beavertail area and wrap your right hand around. then your left hand has either index or middle finger bumping the bottom of the trigger guard. My left hand is rotated forward to where the tip of my right thumb is behind the base of my left thumb. This picture is of a 40b, but the same principle applies. Not sure why i don't have any better pics of me shooting. I can't even find the original from where this pic was taken, lol. Now, just as important as teh rest of the grip... I also flare my elbows out a little. It feels weird, but what it does is it automatically tightens my grip a little more, and also changes the direction at which the recoil impulse transfers to my shoulder. I'll try to get a picture of it later, but try this: Hold the gun as I described above, with thumbs pointing to the target. Then, using a table, crouch down until your elbows hit the table. Then, spread your elbows out to bring the gun down lower to the table. This is the flare I'm talking about. I guess the grip helps lower the bore center line to your hands/wrists, and the elbow flare straightens the path to your shoulders. Without the flare, the gun will jump up, but will bounce back onto target naturally from your grip and thumbs pointing forward. With the elbows flared a little, I find that because the arms bend into each other like an arch, the gun moves towards you instead of above your head. This is just what works for me, I'll try to take some pics later to help explain it. Let me know if I made sense or not.